CIHM 
Microfiche 
Series 
(Monographs) 


ICMH 

Collection'!  de 
microfiches 
(monographies) 


Canadian  l'>stitute  for  Historical  Microreproductions  /  institift  canadien  de  microreproductions  historiques 


^ 


ooo 


Technica!  and  Bibliographic  Notes  /  Notes  techniques  et  bibliographiques 


The  Institute  has  attempted  to  obtain  the  best  original 
"opy  available  for  filming.  Features  of  this  copy  which 
may  be  bibliographically  unique,  which  may  alter  any  of 
the  images  in  the  reproduction,  or  which  may 
significantly  change  the  usual  method  of  filming  are 
checked  below. 


□ 


Coloured  covers  / 
Couverture  de  couleur 


□    Covers  damaged  / 
Couverture  endommagee 

□    Covers  restored  and/or  laminated  / 
Couverlure  restauree  et/ou  pelliculee 

Cover  title  missing  /  Le  titre  de  couverture  manque 

I I    Coloured  maps  /  Cartes  geographiques  en  couleur 

j      I    Coloured  ink  (i.e.  other  than  blue  or  black)  / 


n 


n 


Encre  de  couleur  (i.e.  autre  que  bleue  ou  noire) 


I       I    Coloured  plates  and/or  illustrations  / 


Planches  et/ou  illustrations  en  cculeur 

Bound  with  other  material  / 
Relie  avec  d'autres  documents 

Only  edition  available  / 
Seule  edition  disponible 

Tight  binding  may  cause  shadows  or  distortion  along 
interior  margin  '  La  reliure  serree  peut  causer  de 
I'ombre  ou  de  la  distorsion  le  long  de  la  marge 
interieure. 

Blank  leaves  added  during  restorations  may  appear 
within  the  text.  Whenever  possible,  these  have  been 
omitted  from  filming  /  II  se  peut  que  certaines  pages 
blanches  ajoutees  lors  d'une  restauralion 
apparaissent  dans  le  texte,  mais,  lorsque  ceia  etait 
possible,  ces  pages  n'ont  pas  ete  fiimees. 

Additional  comments  / 
Commentaires  supplementaires: 


L'Institut  a  microfilme  le  meilleur  exemplaire  qu'il  lui  a 
ete  possible  de  se  procurer.  Les  details  de  cet  exem- 
plaire qui  sont  peut-etre  uniques  du  point  de  vue  bibli- 
ographique,  qui  peuvent  modifier  una  image  reproduite, 
ou  qui  peuvent  exiger  une  modification  dans  la  metho- 
de  normale  d<.  filmage  sont  indiques  ci-dessous. 

I    Coloured  pages  /  Pages  de  couleur 

Pages  damaged  /  Pages  endommagees 


a 


□ 


D 


Pages  restored  and/or  laminated  / 
Pages  restaurees  et/ou  pelliculees 


r    ]    Pages  discoloured,  stained  or  foxed  / 


Pages  decolorees,  tachetees  ou  piquees 
Pages  detached  /  Pages  detachees 


j  _      Showthrough /Transparence 

□    Quality  of  print  varies  / 
Qualite  inegale  oe  I'impression 


Includes  supplementary  material  / 
Comprend  du  materiel  supplementaire 

Pages  wholly  or  partially  obscured  by  errata  slips, 
tissues,  etc.,  have  been  refilmed  to  ensure  the  best 
possible  image  /  Les  pages  totalement  ou 
partiellement  obscurcies  par  un  feuillet  d'errata,  une 
pelure,  etc.,  ont  ete  filmees  a  nouveau  de  fagon  a 
obtenir  la  meilleure  image  possible. 

Opposing  pages  with  varying  colouration  or 
discolourations  are  filmed  twice  to  ensure  the  best 
possible  image  /  Les  pages  s'opposant  ayant  des 
colorations  variables  ou  des  decolorations  sont 
filmees  deux  fois  afin  d'obtenir  la  meilleure  image 
possible. 


This  item  is  f'Imed  at  the  reduction  ratio  checked  below  / 

Ce  document  est  filme  au  taux  de  reduction  indioue  ci-dessous. 


lOx 


14x 


18x 


22x 


26x 


30x 


12x 


16x 


20x 


24x 


28x 


The  copy  filmed  here  has  been  reproduced  thanks 
to  the  generosity  of; 

Ndtioridl    Cdllery  of   Cdnada, 
I ibrary 


L'exennplaJre  filme  fut  raproduit  grace  ^  la 
gAnArosit^  de 

Husee  des  Eieaux-Arts  du  Canada, 
Uibliotheque 


The  images  appearing  here  are  the  best  quality 
possible  considering  the  condition  and  legibility 
of  the  original  copy  and  in  keeping  with  the 
filming  contract  specifications. 


Les  images  suivantes  ont  iti  reproduites  avec  le 
plus  grand  soin,  compte  tenu  d»»  la  condition  ot 
de  la  nenetA  de  I'exemplaire  filmA.  at  en 
conformity  avec  les  conditions  du  contrat  da 
filmaga. 


Original  copies  in  printed  paper  co        <  are  filmed 
beginning  with  the  front  cover  end  er    i  'ig  on 
the  last  page  with  a  printed  or  illustrai.  u  impres- 
sion, or  the  back  cover  when  appropriaie.  All 
other  original  copies  are  filmed  beginning  on  the 
first  psge  with  a  printed  or  illustrated  impres- 
sion, and  ending  on  the  last  page  with  «  printed 
or  illustratao  impression. 


les  exempleires  originaux  dort  la  couverture  an 
papiar  est  imprim^e  sont  filmis  an  commancant 
par  le  premier  plat  at  en  terminant  soit  par  la 
dernidre  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'impression  ou  d'illustration.  soit  par  le  second 
plat,  salon  le  cas.  Tous  les  autres  exemplairas 
originaux  sont  filmAs  en  commencant  par  la 
premidre  page  qui  cocti^orte  une  empreinte 
d'impression  ou  d'illustration  et  en  terminant  par 
la  derniAre  page  qui  comporte  une  telle 
empreinte. 


The  last  recorded  frame  on  eech  Microfiche 
shall  contain  the  symbol       ■   (meaning  "CON- 
TINUED"), or  the  symbol  V  (msaning    ■END"). 
whichever  applies. 


Un  des  symboles  suivants  apparaitra  sur  la 
derniAre  image  de  chaque  microfiche   selon  le 
cas:  le  symbole  — ^  signlfie  "A  SUIVRE    .  le 
symbole  V  signifie   "FIN  " 


Maps,  plates,  charts,  etc  .  may  be  filmed  at 
different  reduction  ratios.  Those  too  large  to  be 
entirely  included  in  one  exposure  are  filmed 
beginning  in  the  upper  left  hand  corner,  left  to 
right  and  top  to  bottom,  as  many  frames  as 
required.  The  following  diagrams  illustrate  the 
method: 


Les  cartes,  planches,  tableaux,  etc     peuvent  etre 
filmis  A  des  taux  de  reduction  diffdrents. 
Lorsque  le  document  est  trop  grand  pour  etre 
raproduit  en  un  seul  cliche,  il  est  fllm^  a  partir 
de  Tangle  supArieur  gauche,  de  gauche  i  droite 
et  de  haut  en  bas.  an  prenant  le  nombre 
d'images  n^cessaire.  Las  diagrammes  suivants 
illustrent  la  mAthode. 


1  2  3 


1 

2 

3 

4 

5 

6 

MICROCOPY    RESOLUTION    TEST    CHART 

ANSI  and  ISO  TEST  CHART  No    2 


1.0 


I.I 


1.25 


u;  |M     i  2.5 

I4£ 


-  3  2 

2.2 

II  2.0 
1.8 

1.4 

1.6 

'— 

A     /IPPLIED  IIVMGE    Inc 


■b'_.3    li.:bt    MO'-'     >.'•*■•■' 
(716)   482  -  0300  -  Phon. 


OVER      THE     OLD      ROUTE      INTO      EGYPT 


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J  E  R  U  S  A  L  E  M 

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WITH    II.I.t'STR  \Tln\S    HV 

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B'.ys. 

The  Way  ok  the  Sea:  A  Gillcctiim  of  Short  Siurics. 
Dr.  Grenkeli.'s  Parish:  A  Trait. 


Copyright,  1909,  by  IIaki-er  &  Hkutmers. 
F'ubliihcd  October,  1909 


TO 
THAT    CONSTANT    FRIFNn 

MARCELLUS      MILLS      GF^A> 
THIS      BOOK      IS      MOST 
HEARTILY      DEDICATED 


CONT  i:\TS 


I  llll-     MMI.    OF    Till-:    CullUI.BR        .... 

M  CiiMERMNT,  THE  World  in  tiiis  Bli'e  Si 

III  A    HfioKsELi.ER  OK   F)AM\srr>  . 

I\'  Is    C^AMP    AT    HlvERSIIKnA 

\'  .\  Wayside  Minstrki 

\  I  Tears  i.\  the  .\k;ht 

\ll  (loisT.   East  and  West 

VIII  .\   Plea  on  the   Bol'ndakv    Lim; 

IX  Till-;   RiNAWAV   Bride 

X.  Till-;     DksKRI      l<n\|) 

XI  The  {'AMEi.-TKAUiii 

XII  TllK     DeVUE    ok     .\llKl  LI.All 

.MM  TiiK  Tai.e  ok  the  .Xeedle  an 

.\IV.  Cami.i    I'lK  Camel  .... 

XV  Tiiic   iJiM    oi    Mkn-       .     .     , 

.X\'l  'riiK  ToMn  1)1    iiii;   Will  IK   .\^- 

X\'!l  TllHMl   r,ll     Till.,     SaI.T     S.iAMP 

will  A   SiiKiK  oi    i;r  Till    .     .     . 

XI  \  TllH    CuNTEN  11:11     M\\. 

XX  The  Canovn    wn  the  .Angel 

\X1  Till-;  (\\\()i  \    AM)   Till'    .\\'i;i:i, 

X  X  1 1  .\  r    ill).    Well  of  the   Slavi; 
XX  I  II  Tn       Mi  v.k    Mr:i)ori\   ... 
.XXI\'  ll\!i  Wii    01    Tin;    LiuiANi'N    llii.i.s 
X.X\'  A    PisLki    I)i.  ii;(  I  ivE 


Thread 


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Till-:   L'l.i.s    \VKiri:K   cn    Ti.iii.kav 


in;   MnivT   oi-    i  iii; 


CONTENTKII     Ma\ 


Tin:  Tamki.  wnii  tiih  (iI.ass 
'I'm;  l!c>\i;-^r  Tkai)i;k  m  X  h.i 
(  )\   Tin-;    Kc)  Ml    io    Ka\  i  ara 


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A   I'kiM  1.   IN    Mi;>i)i'()rAMi.j 
A    Hi;ii'MiN    j\  ("i  sTniiY 


XXX\II.      I)i 


XXX\11 
XXXIX 


i-:> 


■,i.i>ii 


li;i.ii 


L"i' 


Kai  iini  (iui;: 


"42 


I(,4 


177 

1S2 
186 
193 
197 


308 


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I  L  L  U  S  T  R  A  T  I  ( )  X  S 

OVER    THE    OLD    ROl'TE    INTO    EOYI'T f ron(»5p». C 

IN    THE    MARKET-PLACE pMing  r       1  <S 

IN    THE   COFFEE-HOVSE    RACHII)    HAD    SAT    WITH    IHKKE 

YOUTHS "            3^' 

WE     WKRE     1-KESENTLY     GONE     FROM     THAT     I'EACEFfL 

ENfAMl'Mi;NT "             3^ 

EI.     ARISll.     THl-:      I1AI.I-\VAY     CITY      OF     THE     CARAVAN 

ROVTE "              50 

THE  CAMEL-TRAIIKR   LEANED  AGAIN   INTO  THE  CANDLE- 
LIGHT     "              ''4 

A    CHRISTIAN    SYMBOL    M  A  U\' P.  I.I.orSL  V   OCT     "1-     PLACE  "              76 
WE    HAD    COME    BY    A    DICVIOl'S    WAY    TO    Till".     li'.Ml     ol 

THE     I'OET "           I  10 

MURA    IIALIM.    THE     BLIND    MISKIAN "           II4 

THE    SHOI>    OF    THE     FEZ-I'RESSER "           I  I  >! 

A    RAGGED  BEDOUIN    MI.LING    His  C.IRHIF-    AT   THE   WELL  124 

THE    CRAVE    BEDOUIN     D!I'ARTI;D M'' 

AHMED    ASED-ULLAH.     I  HE     WKITLK    ol      SCROLLS               .  "           I  52 

SPECIMEN    OF    WRiTINC,    OF    THE    PERSIAN    SCHOOL  "           I  S'l 

WE    MADE    OUR    (AMP    HV    Till-:     Wi;Ll "           1 ''2 

THE    SHOP    OF    A     TRADER     ...                "           i;^ 

WE    SAT    DOWN    IN    THE    SA.ND    AROUND    THE     FIRE       .        .  "           .'C' 


GOING  DOWX   FROM  JERUSALEM 


GOINC;     DOWN     FROM 

J  1':rusalkm 


I 


I 


TliE    sour.    OF    THE    COIiHI.HR 

W\:  I'litcri'.'!  Jornsak'in  from  the  north— he  whom 
thry  ealuMi  the  younojiT  A-'Z/iKi'tz/a  and  I  -having 
mldni  down  from  Damasctis  with  a  small  caravan, 
camjiin.i^r  l,y  the  way;  ami  a  mrau  l.laek  time  it  was, 
this  l;!st  ni.uht  of  our  ridin.ij;,  and  late  of  it,  too — cold 
and  wind-swept  from  the  northwest,  and  Mack  dark 
and  wet  with  a  ])eltin,ij;  rain  of  that  sour  winter.  I 
recall  no  li^lits  of  the  city,  no  warm  in\itation  from 
atar  to  \k-  housed,  no  p;issen,:;ers  at)road  on  the  roads, 
hut  rmu'mber  thr  wind  and  thick  night,  the  clatter 
of  hoofs,  the  glum  silence  of  thos"  servants  and  com- 
panions, ;i  loose  rein  and  the  s]  ash  ami  mud  and 
weariness  of  late  ri<ling.  Presently,  however,  we 
were  Will  lirstowed  in  a  hostelry  by  the  Jaffa  Gate, 
and  when  the  muleteers  Ikh'  fi'tehed  the  bags  from 
the  dripping  pack  animals  below,  w.  extracted  the 
caipets  and  tapestries  of  Damascus,  with  which  we 


G  0  I  \  G    D  O  W  X    FROM    J  E  R  U  S  A  L  E  M 

ti'avc'lled,  liavinj^  learned  the  wisdom  df  it;  and  in 
tliis  simple  way  we  transfornieil  the  cold  elunnljevintd 
a  warm  anil  familiar  place,  i^rali'ful  Id  the  eye  and 
feet  and  sijirit,  like  Ivime.  With  a  histy  tirr  huzzinij: 
in  the  little  j)ortvlain  stdx'e,  and  with  the  mud  and 
sweat  of  travel  washed  otf,  and  with  a  sup])er  <if 
savory  things  steamincj  on  tlie  talilc,  and  with  the 
beloved  Blue  Ru;^  and  the  Red  Bokhara  fjlowinij 
in  the  lamplij^ht,  and  witli  Abdush,  that  admirable 
dragoman!  already  tricked  out  in  the  raiment  of  the 
town,  now  grinning  no  nidre  a  jiridc  in  liis  achiew- 
meiit  u]ion  our  ])oor  travtdling  than  a  vain  interest 
in  his  bright  era\at  and  the  angle  of  his  mustache — • 
this  withal,  wi.-  limked  back  ujxui  the  rainy  jfuirnev 
with  satisfaction,  recollecting  it  all  in  vast  jollity, 
and  thence  turned  with  expanding  enthusiasm  to 
the  prospect  of  simn.ier  riding  southward  beyond 
Beershcba  and  (Afr  the  plains  and  sandy  desert  into 
Egypt  by  the  ancient  cara\an  route. 

Thereupon  we  ])lanned  this  new  journey;  and  in 
the  sunshine  of  the  way  (said  we\  we  should  find 
new  delights  of  travel,  and  ease  in  its  ist>lation  frm 
a  swarming  and  tlistracting  world. 


To  Hebron  and  to  Beersheba,  among  the  pastoral 
Beilouins  to  El  Arish  on  the  shore  of  the  sea,  an<l 
thence  many  san'ly  <l;iys  to  the  Suez  Canal  at 
Kantara:  a  ])lacid  and  companionalde  journey, 
riding  thus  in  the  grateful  Januarv  weather.  We 
were  presently  on  the  wa)'  toward  these  places.     1 


r  hi: 


)r  I,  (> 


ti  i:  CO  B  n  I,  i:  r 


rcrnL'iiibc:  t^'';  rosy  nidrniiv^  air,  thr  siinli;-;ht,  thr  Miu' 
(Hslanri'S  ami  j^rct'iiiiv^  tlcl'is  of  our  flrpartiin.'  from 
ItTUsalem — llu'  oliw-iri't'S  anil  stony  barrens,  the 
Mithc  j)attfr  of  hoofs,  llic  bells  of  tlu-  ba;4,iL;a,!L;e  nuiirs, 
.:]\']  (lust  of  our  small  compan}-  on  tlu'  whili.'  road 
Ih  \-()nil,  tlu' ilwinillini;  lowi-rs  and  walls  of  the  sacred 
hills.  I  neall,  to(j,  the  e.xhilarati  .i  of  the  hour; 
])r()cecdin,^  no  more  from  an  errand  into  tlie  open,  in 
expectation  of  mild  adventure,  than  issuing  upon  the 
ilisappcarance  of  all  pitiable  shrines  and  the  spectacle 
of  an  ignorant  adoration  which  had  dei)ressed  our 
spirits. 

We  conceived  the  aujiurii's  fa\'orable  to  a  happy 
pro^re^s  in  stranije  jilaees;  and  it  pleased  us  in  this 
way  to  makedielieve — a  i,Ma\c  pp'tinee  that  omens, 
as  once  they  had  been,  still  wvrv  \iiriic  with  meaning 
to  such  as  took  the  old  road  into  Ei^ypt.  In  a  field 
beyond  Bethlehem  a  newdnim  kid  la\'  at  the  l\'et 
of  a  small  shepherd  of  those  hills,  whereby  the 
wondi'r  of  our  followers  was  excited  to  an  amazing 
garrulity,  for  no  birth  had  ever  before  occurred  at 
their  passing;  aiic  a  masterless  dog  of  the  city  had 
a.ttached  herself  to  our  adventure,  which  was  a 
lia])])y  omen  (they  said),  though,  indeed,  it  presi'ntly 
appeared  that  she  was  but  a  friend  (>*!  the  white 
mule,  ;ind  had  come,  not  to  ji^n  fortunes  with  us, 
but  in  the  regular  exercise  of  her  devotion, 

At  the  Jaffa  Gate  a  ragged  Moslem  graybeard, 
cit'llieted,  but  held  in  holy  regard  by  the  jiious  because 
of  an  illumination  exceeding  wisdom,  had  lifted  his 


(iU  I  so    DOW  N     1-  ROM     [  i:  K  fs.\  [.  \]  \\ 


hands  and  niuttcrrd  a  vacant  iM^iT'dictKni,  mcludiiiL,' 
us  with  all  ihv  thron^^'in.i,'  w.nid  ;  [last  tiic  !iH,t  ,,f  the 
liili  a  liand  of  Russian  i)il.i:,'ritns,  bnWw^  toward  thr 
Kate  of  llK'ir  holy  city,  -axe  us  for  nur  licj,'L,'ar]y 
.Urcct inn;— worn  souls!— an  al.undaiil  hlcssin.L;,  hcst- 
in.ir  us  mit(htily  in  this  wayside  cxciian.^c;  In  that 
calls  Inm-clf  John  tlic  Baptist  ha\in-  co,nc  hul 
ycstcrda\  fmni  lon.L,^  wandcrini;  in  the  wilderness 
beyond  Jordan— hairy,  j^'aunt,  haredi-^'^ed,  antl  in 
raj;:s— conveyed  the  Divine  sanction  from  the  shade 

ot  an  olixT-tn^e  hy  the  way,  whence,  when  the  smi 
was  hi-h  (they  said),  he  would  into  ihe  city,  uplifted 

and  elo(juent,  to  proclaim  his  niessa-e  to  a  lieedless 

generatitjii. 

We  nnk'  ont  in  ,L,'reat  humor  with   the  time  and 

undcrtakin.L,',  Messed  ],y  intl.ld  an<l  i)il-rim,  hermit 

and /('//a//,  dusty  fraxelhrs  afoot  and  them  that  bi- 

strode    fine    beasts;    and    this    was    a    curious    and 

heartening  departure. 

That  night  we  lay  at  Hebron. 


Here  is  a  city  of  gentle  situation,  lying  in  a  sunlit 
valley;  a  grapedand,  fertile  and  well  watered  through 
these  ages  since  the  children  of  Israel  first  beheld  It. 
It  is  a  place  of  e\il  faith  and  monstrous  reputation; 
the  zeal  of  twenty  thousand  Mohammedans,  grown 
restless,  finds  occasional  \-ent  in  thi>  murder  of 
some  wretched  Jew  or  wandering  native  Christian, 
and  is  an  al)iding  mt'iiace  to  all  lra\ellers  not  of 
Islam. 


^ 


T  H  i:  so  L'L  0  1-    1  !i ;:  coh  i^  i,  i:  r 

"M'li,"  tile  missionary  shoulcvj  fp.ni  his  threshold, 
"iiM  tnit  where  ihere  is  a  ruol!  C,<n\  Mess  yoii  all!" 
with  L'lnwiiirr  heartiness;  "conie  m.  Made  ihi-: 
house  niyscltV  he  ajHil-.-i/A-d,  with  a  cluukle,  "and 
it  i-^n'l  liiiished  Hut  iie-,rr  mind  that;  eonu'  ri'^lil 
"H  in  her.'  and  he  at  lionie.  ^'..n  ,;;v  at  home,"  er"ied 
lie,  and  immediately  -,ve  <,ver  hi^  kiteheii  to  our 
I'ook,  uhieh  made  us  -nests,  indeed,  of  his  com- 
passion, as  we  Were  ,i;lad  to  he. 

He  was  a  sj,are,  ea,L;er  yoim.i,'  man,  all  allash  and 
twinklin.i,'  with  \ital  love  of  foi;-,  and  so  .abstracted 
with  us  and  uneasy,  heeause  of  a  hahit  of  [.re- 
oeeupation-thou.i^'h  he  rattled  on  with  much  charm 
and  intelliLjence— that  I  fancied  he  w.as  torever 
devising  cunning  schemes  to  lure  tlu^  people  to  his 
laith.  Here  dwelt  he,  then,  in  discomfort  and  grave 
isolation,  in  much  real  peril  in  p<.\-erty,  douhtless, 
without  hope  of  any  gain— hut  was  ingenuously 
proud  of  his     nployment. 

"I  tell  you,  men,"  he  declared,  in  conviction  so 
lively  that  I  jumpul  and  was  amazed  in  the  presence 


07CH  reward 


of  it.  "thi,^  work  is  its 

There  had  been  a  vast  e.\j)enditure  of  reasonal.le 
love  here— <if  moiu'y  little  enough,  I  think,  so 
mean  a  sum  that  it  m, ., 'ked  the  wealth,  oi  the 
ehurehes^l.ut  of  the  strength  of  one  wi.se  man  its 
all:  and  I  wondered  conceming  its  xisihle  return:  not 
in  total  attendance,  neither  in  <lay-school  jirogrcss 
and  heha\  ior,  hui  in  the  tale  of  captives  taken  from 
the  hosts  of  Islam,  by  which  the  knignt  himself  must 


': 


('.It 


\  (, 


i)()  W  \     I'  ROM    J  !•:  K  I  s.\  I.  i;  .M 


iiiv'.i.-^ui'i'  Ins  (luii  victnry.  This  \v;is  im  im  an  m- 
triitioii  ((I  iiKikr  (lixisiir  .iinl  (lixuliu-l  <  >\  smuIs  .md 
c'.ish,  wliicli  ni;iy  nut  I'V  itny  L^i-acmns  heart  \iv  ilimr, 
iMT  was  It  a  naiTiiw  and  (  \niral  curiosity,  nt-'i^lcetin^ 
tln'  nltiinatr  nturn,  l>nt  a  siinjilr  tra\clKT's  wniidiT 
c'din'irnin;^'  llu-  inmirdiatr  I'lt'ci-t  uf  a  rarr  conjunc- 
ti'iu  (jf  i^rcat  i)ur[)i)S('  with  an  ini]ici\  I'lic  viY\- 
cieiicy  and  a  pcrsonaUty  so  ciij^aj^'ini;  that  ihr 
liusincss  <«t  [)rosclytini,^  was  here  indul,m'd  aliovc 
the  law. 

"One  souh"   the   man   an^werei],    tVanklv'. 

Thert'  was  no  si^h,  no  ec  ini[  ilamt  or  hopelessness; 
there  was  a  liriet  expectation  of  Manie,  perhaps, 
to  arise  fnnii  lay  misunderstandin,L;,  hut  no  readiness 
to  resent  it,  as  tlie  missionary  regarded  nie  stead- 
fastly. 

"(Jne  soul ?"  I  echoed. 

"The  Lord,"  said  he,  hrushing'  the  hair  from  his 
brow,  "has  given  us — just  one  soul!" 

I  had  not  thought  that  in  all  Ilelin_>n  one  man  had 
dared  declare  himself  apostate;  hut  the  missionary 
— percei\ing  no  triumph — was  now  fallen  into  a 
wistfid  muse,  emt littered,  no  doubt,  by  .some  un- 
just   sc^lf-accusation. 

"I  think."  he  added,  difFuk'ntly,  looking  uj), 
"that  it  is  a  genuine  eon\ersifjn :  1  think  it  is.  There 
is  a  blood  tend  against  the  man,  and — he  has  laid 
off  his  WL'apons." 

The  coiwert  (thought  we)  would  soon  be  num- 
bered with  the  martyrs! 

6 


TH  !■:  so  u  I,  ()  I'  tin;  (  o  h  u  \.i:  r 

It  was  the  Sahl.;ith;  tlir  sun  was  <j,i<nr  ddun,  ]r:iv- 
in.L;   thf   (jlivc   •j^v<>\v<.  aixl    vnnyanl:,    m    the   jmrplr 
sliadfiu-  (if  the  lulls.      Under  cover  of  the  dusk,   it 
SLrnu'i],  many  mm  would  cnmo  to  (-\(  lun.i;  scT\ifc, 
"By   the    bai-k    duor,"    thr    niissionarx'    whispered, 
"they    sti'al    in,    these    p(i.)r    pt  nplr     on    Uie    (juict, 
you  understand?  dressed  in  ra.i;s,  in  dis<,,'uise,  atraid 
to    be    known.     They    eome;    c,h    vt  s     they    (ro/e, 
men!"     There  was  a  ((.n-re-alion  of  two  in  the  hare 
little  service-room:  the  convert,  a  weak-eyed  shoe- 
maker,  and  his  ajiprentiee.     The  hoy  was  restless, 
horeil,  timid,  and  tiea-hitten:  the  man  snu^.s^'lcd  to 
his  new  faith;  he  was  ecstatically  hapj)y.      Hut  yet 
he  liviHl  in  expectation  <A  death:  as  how  should  he 
not?— a   damni'd   and   cutiast    apostate,   the  ohiect 
of  a  hlood  feud,  who  in  ohedience  to  the  new  teach- 
ing' (and  of  his  owi    notion)  had  juit  off  his  weapons 
and     was     become    defenceless    a.^ainst     his     l)Ir)od 
enemy  and  the  hatred  of  his  city.     I  remember  him 
as  a  stalwart  fellow,  able,  in  fair  fi-ht,  to  hold  his 
life  aj^ainst  odds. 

It  was  dark,  and  the  street  was  silent  and  empty, 
when  the  a])ostate  slunk  away.  Came  then  the 
missionary  to  us,  despoTidently 

"Men,"  he  be^^an  at  once,  but  with  distaste,  "the 
Lord  wished  to  humble  us." 

But  why? 

"I— I — hpastid,"  he  stammered,  bitterly;  "and 
only  two  came." 

We  had  forc:otten  the  [jromise  of  nuniliers, 

7 


G  0  I  .\  I.    I)  0  W  \    i-  K  (')  M     I  !•:  R  U  S  A  I,  i;  M 


"And,  men,"  thr  ■^nm]  iii,i:i  conclucicd,  sp.  akiiii,' 
from  the  very  diisl  oi'  humilialiuii,  "1 — 1  ~  ,ii)i 
limiiMt'd!" 

Presently.  Iinuvxcr,  an-!  u  ith  li'ttrr  lu  .irt,  lie  t^Id 
us  of  simdr\-  hcalin,'^  -  h\-  [nayor,  and.  after  that,  <>{  a 
j^raciotis  miracle  worked  in  his  iKhalf.  ■'Il  haj)- 
I)ened,  meti."  he  relatetl,  'on  th(  ro;i,i  fn.in  Heer- 
shcha,  at  midsummer.  It  was  hot.  I  ttH  y,,ii. 
men.  it  u.is  hnt /  No  sij,'n  of  rain  -  (h-\-  midsummer. 
\'()u  don't  e.xpeet  clouds  at  midsummer,  do  you' — 
nothin.u  short  of  a  mira-  le,  as  it  were.  eouM  ppxhiee 
them.  .\n(l  I  t-ouldn't  stand  thi' sun.  \o,  men;  1 
just  tv/(/,/;;'/.'  1  knew  I  eouldn't  h\  e  :,nother  d;iy 
without  r<  hrf.  So  I  thought  I'd  tdl  the  Lord  all 
about  It.  Just  tt  II  lliiii  fr.inkiy,  \  oti  know,  and  de- 
pend uji-^n  Ihtn.  .\nd  I  did:  just  ;^'ot  ri-ht  down 
on  m\-  knn  s  that  ni-lit.  nic  ti,  .and  told  Him  uh;it  I 
thouL;ht.  'Loni.'  s;ii,i  1,  1  ,an't  stand  ii.  1  would 
if  1  coukl;  luit  I  just  (,;;/'/.  \'ou'll  haei^  to  save  me 
— you'll  haw  to  do  it,  Lord  or  I'll  perisii  ri^lit 
here  in  the  wilderness.'  .\nd  luxt  da\-.  men.  a 
little  cloud  eo\-ered  the  sun  no  l.iiji^n'r  than  a  man's 
hand.  A  little  eloud--at  .uidsummer'  It  didn't 
move  away,  remetnl.er:  just  huni;  riL,'ht  there,  all  day 
between  the  sim  and  me.  And  my  life  was  saved. 
Now."  he  demanded,  "what  do  you  think  of  that?" 

That  a  little  ckjud  had  interwned. 

"I  tell  you,  men,"  the  missitjnary  declared,  in 
}).ithctic  bewilderment,  "I  believe  the  Lord  heard 
me — thai  time!" 

8 


1 


TH  !•:    SOUL    OF    T  FI  i:    (OH  HLF.  R 

We  were  Riven  (lodsixcl  in  the  oinc  -nnc,  as  we 
n.dc  away,  soon  after  dawn;  and  wi'  k.cp  thr  man 
m  faith  and  in  affection.  lie  is  a  -ood  man.  a 
devoted  and  effieienf  man  in  his  prof.ssion,  and 
most  tender. 


IT 


coxncKXixc     Tin-:     wnRi.i)     ix     this     iu.uk     space 


LVi'E  'if  ilial  al'ttTiKion  we  came  to  Edli  D:; 
/  liari\'eli,  a  vi]la,ij;c  nf  the  BciU)uins  who  till  llu- 
rifh  ]ilaiiis  t«r\'iiiii]  Hflimn  aU'!  tluTe  ilv.cll  in  peace 
aiiil  in  svilimissidH :  buUi  ])eace  ami  siilnnissii)ii  be- 
inir  cfMileinplible  to  Uie  war-like  tribes  of  tlie  j^reat 
desert  to  the  east,  who  successfu'ly  resist  all  author- 
ity. The  i'e(ij)le  o;  ihe  fields  are  nnieli  ojijiressed: 
the  Inirden  is  of  taxatimi;  three  tlnmsand  dollars 
are  yearly  extracted  from  a  ]io])ulalion  of  eight 
hundred  lUen,  wonuii,  and  children,  but  lease  no 
penn\'worlh  of  beneht  to  stilace  tlie  ravished  com- 
niunity.  Wlien  the  cn)]>s  be'gin  to  s])ring  and  the 
tloeks  giv'e  I'romise.  a  Turkish  assessor  ride>  from 
Hebron,  and  upon  every  man  levies  according  to  the 
utmost  power  of  that  man  to  pay,  so  that  some  let 
tli-'i'-  land  lie  fallow,  anii  sonu',  at  ne\v's  of  his  com- 
ing, slauginer  their  animals,  rallu'r  than  sulfer  an 
excessive  extortion.  The  village  is  itself  but  a 
jimible  of  listless  earthen  huts,  risen  on  a  mound  of 
its  own  refuse  and  ruins.  Beneath  the  homes  of 
this  time  are  the  forgotten  ehanil)ers  of  the  fore- 
fathers. 


Tin.     WORLo    IX    THIS    BLUE    SPACn 

While    tlie   fc.nts  were  risinu  ,.„   (he  common-a 
sweep  of  clean  an.]  clnse-ernp,v.l  green -we  came  to 
the  guest-rnon,.  as  all  ,,.„„l   travellers  must,  or  live 
il-niannere-i.  ano^ranl   l^llows  in  ,l,e  reeolKviion  of 
these    punetihons    folk.      Ii.,v    was    a     hos,>Ual.K. 
reluge  for  wanderers  uf  whatso^xer  degree,   fnv   co 
them,    to  sleep  and    pass  on,   unquestioned,    or   for 
tliree  days  to  t.arrN-.  guests  of  the  tribe:  an  admirable 
an.    saving  custom  of  these  parts.      R  wis  a  dark 
an<l  stagnant  inten-.r- a   black  shadow  under   the 
vauited  root.  I  recall,  into  winch  a  dusty  .sunbeam 
nitru.lc^d   through  a   high   sin   ni   the  w,all-but  wis 
now  comfortably  aglow  at  t]t<.  eolVec.  fire,  whe-v  two 
ragged  old  men.  whose  turn  it  was  (at  the  sheik's 
Ix'hest)  to  provide  the  travellers  refreshment    were 
nursing  the  coals,  in  some  ill  humor.      There  was    , 
g<.o<l   company   squatting  ab.ui    in   expectation    <if 
our  commg;  and  they  gave  us  cs-sala>u  'alnkiuu  in  no 
heartening   fashion,    but   led    us    to    (he    hi-di    seat 
winch   they   distinguished    for   us   bv   spreadm-^   an" 
abha  taken  from   the  back  of  a  vonn-  man        " 

Then  came  the  sheik,  swagge'ring 'ln„n  the  sun- 
I'ght-a  glum,  imjuitient  old  man.  tattooed  on  the 
til)  ol  his  nose,  now  wry-mouthed  .an.l  out  of  sorts 
u-eanng  a  blue  abba  of  (jualify,  all  his  garments  soft 
and  proudly  11,, wing;  but  yet  he  was  a  man  of  no 
account,  sa\e  here. 

The  ceremonial  three  cups  of  coffee  were  served 
to  us  in  awkward  silence. 

•Xow."   the    sheik    demanded,   on    the  heels  of 

II 


3 


G  0  I  X  (i    D  O  W  N     !■  R  O  -M    J  E  R  U  S  A  L  E  M 

the  last  gulp,  "why  have  you  slighted  our  hos- 
liitality '" 

"We  ha\e  ])itche<l  our  tents,"  J.  protested,  "on 
your  eoiiimon." 

"It  is  true,"  lie  rejoined;  "but  you  mock  us." 

"  \\'hat  mockery,"  I  asked,  angrily,  "is  there  m 
this?" 

"Yoii  ride  down  to  Rgyi)t,"  he  rejilied.  "It  is  a 
great  iournev.  Vou  will  lie  here  and  there  by  the 
wa  and  thev  will  say  t<;  you:  'IIow  fared  you  at 
iCdli  Dahariyeli'  Did  tliey  take  y(.u  in— at  Edh 
Dahariveh'  Hid  they  kill  a  shee]!— at  Edh  Da- 
liariveh?'  You  will  answer:  'Tluy  did  not  kill  a 
sheep  at  Edh  Dahariyih;  tiK'y  left  u^  to  sleeji  in  the 
open — at  Edh  Daharix'ch.'  No  tra\t'llcr,"  the  <hrik 
boasted,  but  with,  v.hat  truth  I  know  not,  "hicks 
entertainnuTit  at  Ivlh  l)ah;iriych.  We  are  abk-  to 
kill  a  shec])  every  day.  Had  you  sciit  word  of  your 
coming,  I  would  ha\-e  had  _\ou  to  my  house;  but  your 
mules  came  witliout  warning,  and  your  servants 
bcg;in  to  pitch  your  tents.  We  shall  be  Iaughe<l  at 
for  mean  men  from  I->dh  Daliariyeh  to  Egy])t." 

The  man,  it  seemed,  would  yet  h;ive  us  conscri])ts 
of  his  pride,  and  house  us  in  his  ilea-run  dwelling; 
and  in  the  alarm  of  this  i)rospect  1  tunictl  to  Aboosh 
— th;it  admirable  interpreter  and  guide. 

"  I''phraim,"  s;iid  I,  iirmly,  "the  inan  must  l)e 
diverte<l.     Ask  him  if  the  world  is  round  or  ilat." 

The  diversion  was  effected  :  moreover — a  sensati'  )n. 

"  If  the  World  is  flat,"  was  the  res])onse,  after  some 

13 


I 


1 


'  how    IS    tllL' 


lopeiKjs 


THE    WORLD    1  \    THIS    BLUE    SPACE 

heavy  pondurin-;,  "  I  am  n^ntunt;  if  it  is  round,  ic  is 
round  })y  God's  wisdoni." 

The  nu'U  in  tlic  gufst-rooni  softlv  apj.laudrd  It 
was  a  charactmstic  thin-:  an  evasion  is  with  them 
equal  to  an  answer.  They  drew  nearer  nr>w.  secnt- 
mg  a  diseussion  of  natural  ];hilosoi>hv;  and  an  ex- 
pectant silence  fell.  They  had  for-otten  the  olfenee 
a.uainst  the  hosj)itaIity  of  their  tribe. 

■'Answer  me    this,"  said    the   sheik:  " 
W()rld  supported  in  this  Mue  space'" 

"  The   world,"    I    answered,   cimninj^dy 
upon  tlic  thrt^ad  nf  God's  wdl." 

It  was  a  sufneient  answer:  euriositA'  d:ired  proceed 
no  (urthcr;  an  inquiry  hrynnd  \hv  eomfortal^K.  ox- 
phniation  of  God's  will  would  ]„■  imincty. 

Tliere  came  shuftlin-  to   thr   wm    a't    evenini,^    a 
ra,-v,l    B,,l,H,i„    u-ith    an    ;nieirnt    -old    coin    which 
he  had   plout,died   <.ut  of  th,.  ^^ronnd   of  that   nei^h- 
l"Thood.      This  was  when  the  skv    was  p.]  with  sun- 
set   li,>:ht  and   the   villa.uv   l„,vs   were  idlv  switching 
the  iloc'ks  across  the  co,n,non.      \\V  w.uld  not  buv 
his  treasure.  h:c.inL'  no  wish  to  possess  it;  hut  in.leed 
'"■   p!e:.de<l    until   it   seenicd    we   must   induJLje   hnn. 
•■I   am  a   i)M,,r  man,"  said  he,   -with  neither  flocks 
'I'"-  laniily,  ;.nd  this  g,,],!  ,,,i„  j^  ,,„  ^j^,,^.   j  j^^  ^_^.  .^^ 
">''    ^vorld.      .\o   n<-h   travellers   p;,ss   this   w:,v;   hut 
yet  I  must  sell  my  coin,  because  I  pn.pose  a  jo'urnev 
atid  I  must  sell  it  secretly  lest  the  proceeds  be  taken 
aw.ay  from  me.      It  is  mv  wish  to  i>scape  into  E-vpt 
bt-tore  I  am  called  for  service  in  the  army  and  "sent 

13 


I 


(',  OIXC.     POWX    FROM    jERUSALl-M 


into  the  soulli  to  (lie;  and  so  I  will  rxcliaiiL^i'  my  O'in 
for  a  coin  of  equal  wri-ht  -  a  nure  napoleon." 

The  i'.xehan:4e  was  niana.^ed,  with  somrlliin.^^ 
added  to  drli-hl  and  suri'iisr  the  man;  and  he 
shuffled  away. 

"  He  is  not  liku  the  linoksilkT  ui  Damascus,"  said 
tlie  yountfcr    khaivaia. 

I  iai';^'liei!  to  rrcall  that  avaricious  graybcard  and 
his  mustv  storehouse  bv  thr  Oreat  Mosque. 


Ill 


A    HOOKSELLER    Ul-    DAMASCUS 

Jlli:  booksc.IlcT  Of  Danuuscus.  wlinsc-  bargaining 
1  llK'  younger  /tZ/au',/,.,  rcmemlKTrd  u-is  't 
vuy  old  man-c.ray-l,c.ank.i,  scrawnv-neJk.d,  pal- 
li<i  as  an  „u-ali,l,  marvc.llously  thin,'  bent  at  the 
shouI,U.,.s,  but  dn.se.I  n,  a  rich,  fu,-!ine.l,  perfectly 
tailored  ,<,..u-n  ot  ^^ray  elotli.  and  keen  and  l.-i-lu  oV 
eye  thouK^h  most  caiculalin.,.  and  a^■aricious:  the 
e.  est  son  (they  said.  .,f  thnv  .generations  of  book- 
se   crs  trom  that  san.e  stall  in  the  ba.ar  of  the  book- 

'''',  ^  ''   ^^-''^  '"  ^'i  ""->^Pectedly  amiable  m,K,d 

it^chjau..!.  on   the  rainy  day   when   the    Interprc.e; 

and  I    ell  m  wuh  Inm  by  his  shop,  b.vond  whieh. 

hrou,h  a  httle  gate.,  some  glimpse  was  to  be  had  o 

tiles  ghstemngmtlu     ain  and  light  ,.[  the  open  skv 

He  would   not  only  sh.nv  us  the  books,   but   would' 

^■a    wnlMu.,  happily  found  we  that  which  we  desin.i 
^   l>uy      And    so,    ),„,    hu-kadaisically.    nKutifesting 

to  his  storehouse,  which  we  must  enter  hurriedly,  as 
hough  spied  upon.     This  was  up  the  steps,  a  hun 
th,.  nght,  an  elbowing  progress  through  the  tide- 
's 


G  O  I  X  G    DO  W  X    F  RUM    J  E  R  U  S  .\  L  E  M 


np  ut  humanil)-,  and  sonu'  yards  ui  easier  advanee- 
nicnt  to  a  Icnv  ^loiic  dnur,  unlocked  with  a  j^i^'anUc 
key.  Usliered  into  utUrindst  darkness,  we  were 
provided  wiili  tandies,  folii  to  search,  and  in- 
continently kit  to  '.lurselves. 

"Here,"  dcckired  the  Interpreter,  "is  an  amazing 
thine!" 

■'  l?ut  why?"  I  inquire(k 
i'he  man  lias  kft   no  servant  to  spy  upon  us. 
We  must  beware,"  he  added;  "there  is  an  object  in 
iliis." 

In  this  storeliouse— it  seemed  a  \-ast  ])kice  by  tlie 
little  liiL^^ht  of  one  candle — repcjsed  the  accumulations 
"f  three  ^^fenerations  of  acquisiti\e  Ijooksellers  (f 
Damascus,  drawn  not  only  from  the  cities  of  Syria 
and  I'LL^ypl,  Init,  as  it  .snun  appeared,  fn  un  Persia  ..s 
well,  where  books  were  aneirnl]\-  well  made.  No 
cry  of  traflic  crmld  penetrate  tlie  ]u'a\y  door,  it  was 
\ery  still  witliin,  and  lifeless,  and  a.ired,  and  musty. 
The  lloor  was  deeji  in  dust;  and  ewry  book  that  was 
touched — e\ery  leaf  that  was  slii-re<l  — L;a\e  off  each 
its  little  pulf.  TJie  lli.or  was  littered,  the  corners 
lieaped,  the  .shelvt'S  crowded:  many  tJiousands  (if 
\ohmies  liad  liere  been  east  and  fnrL,'i  itten— ac(iuired 
and  held  jxissessed  in  the  .Mdhammedan  way.  I 
recall  great  books,  writti'u  upm  jiarchment  bv  skil- 
ful hands,  long,  k)ng  ago,  exLjuisitelx-  illuminated  and 
bound— a  long,  ill-kept  row  of  these,  so  thick  with 
black  dust,  which  had  even  sifted  bietween  the  leaves, 
that  I  tancied  they  had  not  been  ti  inched  in  a  hun- 

i6 


A    BOOK  S  !•  L  L  E  R    O  F    D  A  M  A  S  C  U  S 

dml  years.      Pivsently  I  came  upon  many  covits  .,f 
anliciue   ionics,    i^ol-l-lcated   and   dwply   i.M.Rd    and 
beaulifiul   wiUi  slender  Hourishes-all  stripped  In.ni 
the  orit^ina!  iMu-ks,  wliieh  had  been  rebound  lor  sale. 
Xc'ar  by  a  eraz>  slair— chiUered  witJi  l„H)ks— wliieh 
led  perilously  to  the  loft,  was  a  eolleeti.m  of  little  vol- 
umes, in  dusty  heaps  on  a  hi-h  shelf:  thin  little  books. 
delicately  written  by  hand  and  as  delicately  illumina- 
ted ;  some  poetry,  I  recall,  and  some  pious  discussions. 
I  fell  in  love  with  one    fas    they   sav)— the  tints 
and  intcrlaciii!^  lines  an.l  gildin.^'of  tlie  litle-paKc, 
all  masterfully  accomplished,  endurin-  to  this  tiiiij 
witiiout  a  faded  color  or  other  blemish. 
^    "Tliis  little  book,"  said  the  Inti^rprct.T,  ].resently. 
"is  a  collection  of  philosophical  i)oems.   more  than 
one  hundre.1  years  old,  composed  (as  here  is  written) 
by  the  talented  dau.trhter  of  a  certain  learned,  wise 
famous,  and  wealthy  prince;  but  the  name  of  the 
scribe  is  omitted." 

"Then,"  said  I.   'diere  is  a  story:  The  beautiful 
(laughter  of  the  i)rince,  exercising  her  talent  in  his 
'lehght,  had  these  jjoems  inscribed  by  a  master,  and 
presente.l  them  to  her  father  to  win  Jiis  praise." 
"It  may  be  so,"  he  agreed. 

"But,"  I  ])rotested,  "it  is  indeed  so;  there  is  no 
other  copy  in  ,dl  the  wide  world." 

"That,"  said  he,  "is  undouhtedlv  true." 
As  the  Interpreter  bent  with  me  over  the  volume 
translating,  we  were  interrupted  t,y  a  soft,  asthmatic 
wheeze,  and  I  turned  with  a  start  to  find  the  jxallid 


I 


('■ 


()l\(l     DoWX     FROM    J  F.  R  U  S  A  i.  i:  M 


l"">ks'jlkT  at  my  very  shouMcr,  liis  1k'.:i1  llirust  for- 
wanl— his  scrawny  heard,  drawn  cluvk'^.  and  avari- 
cious eyes,  lie  had  rciiir  M,ftly  to  ^p\-  upon  us,  as 
he  haii  intended  when  iiu  left  us  alone;  and  havin.i,' 
in  this  way  discovered  our  real  desire,  was  prepared 
to  exact  tlie  value  of  it  to  the  last  franc.  At  once  we 
bargained  for  tiie  Ix.ok.  tlir  Interpreter  gleefully  sus- 
tained the  argument,  hut  was  m  a  state  of  wralli 
and  perspiration  wlu^n  at  last  the  money  was  ])aid 
down,  and  had  no  gcjod  word  to  say  f(jr  the  Look 
seller  in  h:nglish.  For  my  bargam  (since  in  D  nna-^- 
cus  barL^auiii!,-  is  a  polite  at  complishtneiU)  1  will  say 
this:  tliat  next  day,  when  T  causally  expose<I  the 
bf)ok  in  an  antitjue-shop  much  freciuental  by  tourists 
in  the  season,  the  dealer  thrust  his  hand  nn.o  his 
money-drawer  and  cast  to  the  counter,  from  a  liand- 
fu!  <>i  gold,  tlinr  tunes  the  sum  I  had  paid:  Init  I 
would  not.  l.dse  him  up. 

I  still  carried  1  he  book  in  mv  hand  when  we  came 
to  the  door  ot  the  bookseller's  storehouse,  but  was 
then  all  ;il  once  seized  VKjlenllv  bv  the  ;inn,  smartly 
chi<ied,  and  charged  to  conceal  the  volume  (the 
bookseller  having  first  kissed  it)  until  we  were  well 
departed  from  the  neighborliood 

"  FhiS  virtUdiis  .Mohammi'dan,"  the  Inteq)reter 
exi)lained  with  contempt,  "will  not  sell  holy  books 
to  Chri.stKins— v.-hen  anybody  is  looking." 

I  indulged  the  old  man's  scruj):cs  by  concealing 
the  t)o,)k;  ;ind  we  were  then  nshercil  into  the  street 
m  the  most  friendly  and  innocmt  fashion  in  the  world. 

i8 


if 


.  / 


IN       THE       MARKETPLACE 


!! 


A     lioo  K  M;  I,  I.  i;  K    ,,  I      i,  \  \i  ^  >^(   u  J. 

"Wlial  IS  tlic  occ.isioii  of  the  man's  secrecy?" 
I  asked.  1. resell tly.  "Has  lie  I.ruken  the  law  in  this 
transaction  ■"" 

"He   has   l)iMkril    the   l.iw,   .,|"  ciursc,"    the    lnl,T- 
rreter  replied ,    ■hui  tliat  is  nolhiii.i;  in  {(mIi       Th, 
tiling'  is  inipuiLanl  only  if  it   he  .liseoverol    by  an 
enemy  more  powerfnl  than  he      Not  lonj,'  a«o  in  this 
street  Mf  , he  hunkMllers.-  he  continued,  as.  .leparting 
from  that  quarter,  we  pause-!  at  the  entraiuv  ,>{  the 
bazar,  "a  Mohammedan  of  upright   character    and 
I'lous  and  honorable  life  earned  a  slender  livelihood 
i'y  nie.ins  ,,(  the  l.mdin.i,'  and  sale  of  hooks  of  un- 
impeachable loyally  to  Mohammed  and  the  wSultan. 
He  was  an  inolTcnsive  i)erson,  past  middle  age.  tni- 
accused    of  crime,  living,  doubtless,  in  ex|.cctati<ni 
of  a  peaceful  death  in  this  guileful  and  envious  city, 
breathing  no  sedition,  deahaig  for  fair  profit,  reciting 
the   jiravers    al     ih.e    ;ipponited    intervals,   in    every 
Way  obscrvmg  tht.  tornis  of  his  ndigion  and  practising 
the  spirit  of  it.      It  chanced,  however,  that  he  won 
llie  enmity  of.-i  neighbor,  a  man  of  power  and  WiMJth, 
who  would   t.ike  Iiis  ease  on  the  roof  .and  ogle  the 
bookseller's  >oungcst  wife  whenever  she  ajipctred, 
so  that  ])resently,  .so  i)ersistent  was  the  ofTence.  she 
niight    newr   breathe   the   air   except    through    the 
meshes  of  .1  black  veil,  not  even  in  the  priv'acv  of  her 
own  roof.      From  this  wicked  infatuation,  ol'course. 
resulted  the  poor  booskeller's  destruction.      It  set>in^ 
that  at  the  same  time  th.at  he  was  expecting  a  con- 
signment of  books  from  Cairo,   his  eldest  son,   by 

19 


I  ■  ■ 


\v 


( ;  ()  I  .\  ( i    DOWN    I"  ROM    J  i:  K  U  S  A  1.  i:  M 

another  wife,  was  aboul  in  ixlum  ti'im  America, 
being  in  ill  health  and  about  to  die.  Wlien  iteaiiic 
time  f<>r  the  young  man  and  the  Ixjoks  to  arrive  at 
Beirut,  the  covetous  neighbor  causeil  to  be  included 
with  the  books  cerUiin  volumes  of  a  violently  sedi- 
tious teaching,  and  to  be  discovered  in  ihv  luggage 
of  the  son  certain  (^Tensive  drawings  of  the  Sultiin 
himself.  The  neighbor  was  a  man  of  wealth  and 
influence,  and  in  conse'iuence  the  thing  was  not 
dinicull  to  in, mage. 

■    Hut.'  cried  the  poor  bookseller,  v;hen  he  was 
accused,  "  I  did  not  order  tlie  books!' 

"'Nevertheless,'  they  answered,  'here  arc  the  for- 
bidden volumes  in  the  bale.' 

"'These  papers,'  the  son  ])rotcsted,  '  I  h.ive  tiuver 
si'cn  iu-fore!' 

Ah,'  they  answvred,  '  but  we  have  found  thcni  in 
your  trimk.' 

"Tlif  result  w.is,"  the  ''UcrpR'tiT  eo'ichi.k'd. 
"  that  fathrr  and  son  were  case  into  j^rison.  The  son 
languished  and  die<l,  but  the  father  was  liberated 
when  tlie  Turks  Ii;i(l  sueke<i  liis  fortune  from  !nm, 
1  haw  not  seen  the  man  for  ;i  vcrv  long  time." 

"And  the  _\oung  wifi •'"  1  in(|uired. 

"  Really."  tlie  Interpreter  r'.'plied,  '  I  do  not  know 
what  became  of  her." 

I  wondered — perli.aps  unkindly — how  the  ecn'et- 
ous  nciglibor  liad  Vicm  ni;ide  .aware  of  the  poor  book- 
seller's most  intimate  affairs. 


IV 


i 


IN    CA.MI'    AT    (Ii:i;k^lli;i;A 

\\ri:  CPU.  to  IkrrslK'ha  from  B\h  Daliarivcl,  next 

\   Way.  n.  a  uuxlsK.rni,  a  .Iriviii^r  ^raU,  il,e  horses 

l^'K'K'iig  .Iis,.iriu.,l.     The  air  was  parching  an.i  misty 

\yl'"luMl.lnw„  ,„  M-M,,,  i!„.  u.l.Krness;  and  some  i.llr 
ol.i  wiseacres,  loitering  near,  said  thatall  travell.r.  in 
the  san.ly  .lesert  wouM  1,,.  i„  ,„.ril.      h  is  ,-,  mush 
room  trading  settlement,  inr  these  six  wars  a  strug- 
gling markc^l-place;  they  had  .liggd  np  the  ruins  of 
the  ancient  city  to  nnkv  nrw  iK.hitatiuns-  ,-,  tun,  nf 
'l.espa.h..  and  here  aiv  thr  squ.uvd  M<Kks  nfiallrn 
I'alaces  ready   to  hand.     The  kannakam   said  th,t 
we  must  rule  thence    t-  Gaza  on   our   wa\-    to    El 
Ansh,  "rn,len.;lartl!eroii  our  journc-v,  Icsi 
y>  harm  on   tiie  j.Iains,  where,' saiu 
Bedouins    ;iiid    no    fannhar    jxiths. 
said  tliis  tmnd  man,   "ridrs  toCla^a,  and   therefore 
"•"St  you.      11   vo„  took  Ihe  path  of  vour  chousing 
and  met  with  evil  treatment,  ],ow  should   I  escape'" 
Ue  vvouM  not  !,uy  his  acciuiescenee  (were  that  his 
moaning),  but  .,uietly  planned  to  dep.-irt  in  the  earlv 
"'-nung,  ehoosmg  the  shorter  w,.v  to  the  half-w'.v 
sUttK.n  ot  Ralieh.  which  was  to  our  hking. 

21 


\vi'  t'onio 
u\   Ui're  ni,ui\- 
■  I'.)\\'r\-liod\-,' 


r,()\\{]    1)()\V\    TRUM    J  i:  R  U  S.\  L  i:  M 

Thcrr  at  Brcrslu'lia  arr  Aliraham's  wells;  and  tliis 
ln'in;^'  {he  V(.t>-  frdilivr  of  the  lianlicst  tnurist  \van- 
(Icriiijijs — the  fartlic'St  objcctixf  of  al!  those  ilevDted 
pilgrinia.i;es  which  astound  and  disfjuiet  the  simple 
travcllcr^wi'  determined  that  our  dejjarture  tlience 
u]>on  the  untroijden  vvays  into  I-!,uvpt  should  in  some 
meet  way  he  siijnalized.  It  was  no  lla.Ljrant  ex- 
pression of  distaste  for  trip-ticket  company,  which, 
in  Palestine,  whatever  (.Isewhere,  is  somehow  pecul- 
iarly grateful  e\en  to  the  hapless  apostate  (as  I  ha\e 
been  told)  — like  the  sweet  simplicity  of  children. 
Our  small  eelel)ratir)n  should  be  like  a  saucy  snap 
of  the  fingers  directed  at  whatsoe\-er  had  been  irk- 
some or  fearful  or  bewildering  in  the  lives  we  had 
lived;  here,  at  last  (thought  we),  was  the  roarl  be- 
yond— free  and  still,  leading  far  and  strangely: 
upon  which  no  disturbing  word  mi,L;ht  follow  from 
any  yesterday. 

Ali  M.ihinoud,  the  big  muleteer,  acquainted  with 
the  khawaja's  con\-i\ial  ititention,  instantlv  proposed 
a  sheep,  tender  with  youth  and  the  new  grass  of 
those  green  hills,  to  l)c  boiled  with  rice  in  a  great 
copper  pot,  which  the  cook  m.-  ::t  liorrow  from  the 
town,  and  sauced  with  curr\-,  to  whieji  th  •  klidi.uijifs 
excellency  might  add  sour  pickles,  were  his  generos- 
ity only  sufficient  to  that  altitude  of  magnificence. 
Presently,  thereafter,  tlie  cook  slaughtered  a  sheep 
in  the  street,  operating  with  gravity,  in  the  presence 
"t  a  e<)Vttous  throii;^'.  1  fancied,  looking  about  upon 
all  those  desir(.)us  eyes  and  uneasy  lips  and  tongues, 

22 


1  .\    C  A  M 


1'    .\ 


I'     HI-:  i;  RSI!  iCHA 


that  t]i( 


ht'  a 


ly  'nu-ani   clamor  n{   l^(,.rshd,a    wnuM   h 
tumult  ]ia<I  I  tlie  cars  t..  hear  it. 

The  carcass  was  shouldered  into  cam,.  Ii,,wc\-er 
'"  Pj'acc  an.l  pn>,nptly  packnl  awav  „,  th,  pot' 
"^;.f  •\';  '■''—'  3,,.l  hi.nsd,  u-,vstc,I  from  a 
.solitary  H,,ioum  encamped  near  hv.  havin.;  satis- 
fied the  u-retched  man,  after  loud  brou-l.eatin-;  uitJi 
a  niere  promise  of  reward,  in  the  persuasi^■e 'Syrian 

I  observed  while  we  waited  tliat  Ihe  voun.i^er 
/^'hnn^aia  was  indusiriouslv  c.nploved  with  a  pcieil 
and  paptr.  ' 

eve™''"'"'''^'"'  '""'''"- ^^P''^  '''^^  "i^  Xew-Vear's 
"How  do  you  know  ii?"  1  deman.kd 
"I  have  floured  it  out,"  heanswered,  triumphantlv 
I.  re   then,  was  reasonable  occasion:  I  sul,stituted 
It  tor  that  sentmien^al  consideration  which  had  in- 
spired our  feast,  and  was  tlu-  n„  ,re  at  ease  for  havin-^ 
"ly  feet  upon  such  sr.lid  -rounrl.  * 

It  uas  bitterly  dark  abroad  wJien  the  admirable 
Aboosh  fetched  us  to  co,npk  te  the  s,|uatiini,  circle 
ol  muleteers  and  camp  servants  in  the  cnk's  tent 
Ihc  wnd  was  blowin,^  hi-h  from  tjie  stonv  wilder- 
ness of  Bcersheba-that  vast  .Ircad  barn-n-an-l  the 
ram  was  dnvm,^  past  in  noisy  showers;  but  the  tent 
was  warm  and  H.^^m  ^-ith  many  candles,  th.'  lL,p  was 
peKS;ed  ti^ht  against  the  wet  drau.dit.  the  feast  was 
spread  fragrant  and  bount.ously.  and  the  companv 

^3 


M 


ti: 


4 


i 


if 


G  (J  I  \  Ci    DO  W  \    I'  J<  ( )  M    J  i:  u  L'  S  A  1.  i;  M 

was  of  oxcvlliiit  humor  ami  many  jovial  accom- 
plishments. The  yinini^'cr  khauuijtt,  cxj)aii.lini;  atlcr 
meat,  w-niM  cxhiliit  the  miv/w  stick  at  pleasure  (said 
hei;  and  this  he  nio\ed  to  do,  ]<\i\.  dnuvl  no  stick 
at  hand,  sa\r  the  donkey-stick  ot  tlu'  youuL,'  impisli 
I  lamed,  uliieh  lie  must  ma-^icallx  cou\crt  into  a  stick 
of  that  ma^'ical  quality  den.anded  l.y  the  feat. 

It    was  not  a   difrK-ult    iJnnu  to  do:  tlu-   yiPun,L,'er 
kluiwijii  had  in  the  seclusion  of  his  tent  suspended  a 
black  thread  from  kniv  to  kiue,  so  that,  squattin.t,' 
behind    the    i-andle  li-ht,     with    the    thread    drawn 
taut,  he  was  t'li.iMed  to  prrsuade  tlu'  \erv  donkey- 
stick  lit    llanied   to  stand   upri.i^ht  In'tweiMi  his  le.ys, 
without  the  support  of  so  much  as  a  (in,v^er-tip,  like 
any  stick  of  induliitahly  ma.yical  pedii^ree  and  power. 
Search  as  tluy  mii;ht  for  tln'  ma.i,McaI  means  com- 
mande(]  !,\   the  youn-er  klhi:r,ii<i,  they  could  not  see 
the    thr    id,    a.^ainst    which    the    stick   leaned.     The 
thin«,'  remained   a   mysterv:   and    in   return    lor   tJiis 
amazin.i,'    e\h!l)ilioii,    Ali    .MahuiMud,    •wiin-JMri' .usly 
hristlins.;  his  ri'd  stuiiMeof  brard,  said  that  he  would 
then   entertain   the   company   l.y   rdatine    tlie   most 
humorous  story  ever  known   to  have  .sli])ped   from 
the  tonijue  of  any  inventor  of  tales  since  the  very 
WMild   be,i,'an,  callci   l.y  ihose  Bedouins  of  far  Ncjil 
"The  Tale  of  the  C'amel  wliieh   I'lew." 

It  was  a  successful  adventure  for  Ali  M.ihni^.ud: 
Irom  Elias  of  Jerusalem,  the  cook's  bo\,  n,  the  ex- 
quisite Ahoosh  himself,  they  were  hv  turns  all  en- 
wrajjped  and  shak.n  with  lau,L;hler;  and  1  wisJi  that 


W'i 


iX    CAM  I"    .AT    HI-  [•:  RSIf  FBA 

I  misht  reprat  the  story,  bul  .nn  uuaM,.     ,„■   \l„,o^h 
s-.llly   >nl..rmoI    n,r,    whc„    1    ,k.n.an.k..l    iJu.   mUr 
protation    that  ,],.   Er,^H.]i  la„.ua^c.   I .cin^  some- 
what   ma.lniuau.    in    m-pcct    to    douhlc    nicanhms 
ma.lc  ,t  impossible  for  hi,„  to  convey  t],.  cic-Icvtahle 
'"'U'hcacv..fth.fal..  in  any  chaste  "form 

ll  's  th.  uay,"  sai.l  he,  by  wav  of  apolo^v  Jiis 
vyv  spcxulalixcly  re^anlin^  me,  "  wkh  manv  iharm- 
m,U  lUduum  tales." 

I  made  no  demand  tijion  his  modesty 
'•They  may  be  told  in  Arabie."  lie  cv.nlinue.l.  uill, 
ri'lK-t,      bnt  not  even  thon-ht  of  in  I'n-li^h  " 

llavm.^  „.,w  feasted  hearlilv.  uv  had  aeeonn.lished 
little  enough,  after  all.  „p,,n  the  I„k1v  of  Uva  .luvp- 
there  reniamed  fraiL^nnents. 

'Are  tJure  no  hun-;ry  hereabout'"  I  asked. 
Tlie   e.H,k   discovers   sevc-n   patient    Hedom-ns  of 
that^  uildcrness  waitin-  in  the  rain. 
"Tm   \vhomsoe\er   will   eat,"   said    [. 
A  curious  thiti.^  happened  :  Tlte  seven  came  bravely 
to   share   our  benefKvnce.    uitl,    neither  bristlin-  of 
I"-"'*'  '""•  l-'ssenin.u  of  it,   uiih,,ut  fawninL:,  cnvv"  or 
awkwar.lness,   with  no  appearance  of  h:,tred  or  de- 
nieanm.ir  humility,  but  procec'din-:.  in  all   thin-s    as 
with  j.roj.riety.      ik,v   (tlK.ui^rht  I,    wen-  late  -niests 
•".;'^""  <■■''■''':   -""l    1    niust.   someb.w,  e.xehanue  the 


jx'lite    expressions    with    tlirm 


"f'Tc    thev   ate  of 


that  which  was  left,  lest  I  suffer  in  t],,,t  ,h\u,itv 
and  munilieence  which  all  the.se  folk  conu-ived  me 
tw   possess.      It   was  a-reeable,  ind.ed.  to  encounter 

'5 


>  H 


it 


Gf)I\'(;    nO\V\    FROM  RUSAL  RM 

these  who  mi-ht  with- ait  nfiVna'  a-cvivc  tin-  crunil.s 
from  our  tal.lc,  FlsrwhcR.  (I  am  told) -in  those 
places  where  independence  is  the  fashionable  estate 
—this  may  not  l.e  .lone:  it  seems  that  none  is  jx-r- 
mitted  to  take  Ixninty  and  live  respected,  nor  arc 
many  able  to  dispense  it  witli,,ut  pride:  there  are 
the  needy  and  the  beneficent,  l)ut  mharmoniouslv 
related.  ^ 


A    WAVSinK    MIVSTREL 


\\rh    ^^■vn■  a.-tir  before  daw,,.  „i,,vin^   vul,   .,„ne 

y  y    '''nUnii.iuMuseautiMn.tnnuiwit  ihv  kann.ikan, 

wl...  ha,linrhi,l,len  ..ur  ,k.,,,nure  tMuar.l  the  plains' 

It  was  sr,ll  raining;  l,„t  the  ,n.at  uirul  <.t  yesterday' 
^^"hH    ha.i    distressed    n„r    l.^sts,    was    now   falK-n 
awav.  and  ihv  siir.w.rs  eanie  -entlv  fr,„n  the  vanish- 
ing,' shadows  roun.labout.     At   ,Hvp  ,,(  ,lav  the-  skv 
beyond    the  farthest  ..utlin..  ..f    ,h.  lulls  ^ave  rosy 
promise:   and    ii    was   all    warm   and    vellow   in    th'e 
:;"'■'''    "■'''■"   ^^■"^'^''"-  to  tl.     hrlile  plateau  l,evn„d 
1  eersheha.     The    new    o,rn,    sprin^in^    after    nun, 
Klis  ene<l  m  the  sunH.^^ht,  stretdnn,,  fmn,  the  san,lv 
I>aths  we  rode  to  tlie  ha.c>  of  distance  and  the  blue 
:";"!  <"   sonu.  .reat   Inlls;  and   over  this  illimitable 
""!  ran  the  shadows  nf  ,,.reat  flvin,^  masses  of  eloud 
-here  a  elear  shadow  and  tl-.ere  a  far-off  streaminjr 
shower  of  ratn.     There  was  a  traveller  t„  the  wreteh- 
^■'    town,  <arrvin,^  urain  .,n  the  back  of  his    eamel 
^^ho  pass.d  tnnidlv,  but   with  some  pleasant  saluta- 
tion   an,eit  uttered  haltin,,lv:  tlK.re   were,  shv  shep- 
herds by  the  way.  with  stax-es  and  pip.s,  wl,:.    laek- 
ing  courage   to   gaze,    lied    with    tlie    sheep   a't    ot:r 

-'  7 


'h' 


Ii 


L101.\(.     l)(.u  .\     1    ROM    J|.;uL. S.M.I,  M 

approacji.  hut  iJh,v  was  no  oth.T  human,  ,i  scuuctI 

t"  cncvuuUcT,  ih,n,.rj,  „v  cvspici  the  hlaek  tents  and 

moni„i«  hrcs  ,,,  t],>  ,,ast.,ral  Bclouins  „f  those  parts. 

We  basked  in  tlie  ease  and  ccnifortable  heat  ut  mir 

journey,  nding  idly,  with  reins  faHen;  since  we  nii-rjit 

niaimp  at  pleasure,   n..  need   commanded    us-  "e- 

mame.1  to  i,s  unimpaire.l  what  will  we  ha.l  and  all 

the  hours  of  .lay.     The  caravan  dawdled   after-   I 

cau;,htearof  ,h..  la.yi)ee-up!"of   [hnud   to  his 

'Innkey,  the  lau.rhtcr  of  Ali  Mahmoud,  the  c'hatter  of 

the  ccok  and  the  muleteers,  the  hells  of  ,n,r  mules 

rhcse   were  grateful   sounds,   indee.1.   come  fro 

mellowni^r  Wistance  to  the  sunshi.ie  and    w, 

pect  of  earth  and  iluudy  skv. 

It  was  a  ple-.sant  thin-  Ub.u-ht  I)  to  traN.  1  tims 
in  spnn^  wi-atlKr. 


om  a 
■vi'le  pros- 


Present 


y    we   were   in    the    way  ..f  ov.rtakln.r  a 


traveller  whose  curious  beha\ior  1  ha 


time  rriTiarked 
who  Would  now 


Irom  tune  to 
]  ie  was  a  furtive  fell(  ,w,  ,i,r,  ,in,ir  afoot, 
,  .,,  .      "^'''^''  '^''^^^''  ""wloiUT,  nowpau.se 

u-ithout  occasion,  all  the  whil.  keeptn,,^  wateh  up,  ,n 
us  over  his  shot.LKr.  I.,  appeared  as  we  dn  w  near 
that  he  wore  neither  the-  /.,;;/,,<■/.  nor  ,;/./>a-tIu.  head- 
.Iress  and  envdopin,,  eloak-^.,f  thos.  wanderiti,.  folk 
ntthe  deserts  and  (,utlyin.tr  fields,  hut  was  clad  in  the 
skirt  and  jacket  of  the  wall  ,as  they  sav>  his  Ju.ul 
bound  about  with  a  lunp  white  cloth'  It  w 
circumstance  to  excite  the  wonder  of  any  man/ 
Here  is  no  Bt'dMuin,"  said  I. 

28 


s  a 


A    w  A  \-  S  I  D  i:    M  I  X  s  T  R  i: 


"Nor  :,n    ICvyptian    naunun^    ,,.    Cur.,"   ,,^1,..! 
„";"^V^"   '•'"'^'    "■'^'    ""■•     -This   ,s  a   .M„h.nn- 

;;AL_anyraU,"sa„l    L    ■]..■  .ravj.  ..  L.vpt." 

..,.j;\;;,r""; '•';';''■"  -^l sh.leclami:i„pi,v. 

^:,^    -^^'l-n-dyp.nshi,M]u.descTthotwecn.- 

-^^^J'-'VI],,, vis  !n,n,,vr,-li„siste,i."l}uT.  is  com- 
passion amouL:  AI.  .Jiamniclans." 

,:   ''' '^:'^'I'^"''■■'''^'^'''^''•■'"■''''^'^■'•'"^'•P^^i^•i^■a- 
"  l^rnly,"    [  aiismrcl,  .l,.i,l,t|VlIv 
•^}oumay,l,i„ks,,.-sai,lln.,ui,hau-n„,li„!olauc^h 

;:7"''-  ''^'■•7''''=^^''  '-'-'''.•■>  to  ,h,si„,i„Ku.v 
'"''-•v-<l>.  n,,u-„p,,n   h.snuttK,   .f  .v.r  a   cuiick 

;"■;;■" '7, ;'':'•-•••' •^-'•-^'-  Ai.o..sh .xcij;' 

^"   ■''  '.''''"•''''^■''•■•■'.^'''''-"'■"^tantly  burst  i„t,.I,,u.h' 
;;\;^\'''''^'"''';'  ^-''' ^^-vas  p.ril,,us!v  situau.,1 

'>-i  |--k-ni  ,„r  a  tn.vnin.^  countr„ancv~somc  ar- 
-jsat,,.na„,lfa,ju.,-ly  solicitude.  "  1 1,  is  a  rascal '•■ 
■At"-sh  cxplanu.l    inicanin-  a   conmal    f,.|!,,u-.       |, 


•I 


GOI.VC,    DOWN-    FR(,.M    j  K  R  r  S  A  I.  i;  ,m 

scenu.l.  indcvd.  that  ]u.  u-as:  t],,.,v  uvr.  m.Mv  u-onls 
more-  lauKhtcr  -l.ut  >rt  tJ,.  suuu-  calculating  tuinklc 
n.  th.l.n.u-n  eyes  afoot.  I  ,„avivnl  :t  rhvlhn,  i„ 
tlK'  VuuuK  man's  talk,  a  rhyme.  to,.-a  su'.vi  ;nH 
tender  a.-reenK.it.,fso„n,ls-an,I  I  sunnisol  that  he 
was  nnprovisin-:   wliirh   tunir,]  out  to  he  true-  he 

KHl  taken,  as  I  K.arm,]  at  the  en.l  of  ,,u,-  iournev.'ihe 
tnnlmK  caravan,  the  luxunously  n,!i„^  ,ira„mKu, 
an.i  the  awkwaniness  of  tlie  ^irax--hain-l  kl„:r.,;', 
t'  "-the  subject  of  some  sarcastic  ^  ersifie.tiou  Hut 
.1.  „otkuou-it,h.a:I  u-asattluthnei„u.reste,l 
to  ni,serve  that  he  was  youn- aT-,|  unprovi,],.,]  pict- 
uresquely   lacking   in    every   precaution,   an.l'of    a 

jc.vial  disposition  -exprelin.t;  the  ^4hs  of  the ,1s 

>t  see,nc.l.  m  return  for  this  ready-flowin-^  wi t  •  ■[ 
ra--l    lu.Ipless,  most  san,,Mnnc.  traveller,  dependin.^^ 

upon  the  chances  of  the  road  for  sustenanu  and  all 
the   comfort   of   companions],i,,.     I    f,,,,,,-   ti,,^    j.j^ 

rhymes  had  iKvn  fashioned  to  enraptun.  the  ex- 
cellent \l„,osh  while  the  desperat.  po.t  await.d  our 
appnjaeh  over  the  wet  alien  plains. 

^^   "  I  am  Rachid,"  said  lie,  in  answer  to  mv  question, 
a    coflee-maker   of   Jerusalem,    last    emplovcl    hv 
Havid  s  Oate."  " 

^^ '^  Wi|f  do  you,"   Tasked,   -alone  ui.on  tin  se  far 
"I  tra\-el  into  E_<rvpt." 

"  It  is  a  journey,"  said  r,  •■  perilous  to  a  lonelv  man  " 

../^'7    ^''^'^-^''^    ^''i    .^"""1    ^'ompany,-    he   'replied, 
travels  securely  and  in  plnitv." 


IN    THE     coffee-house:    rachid     h 


AD       SAT 


WITH 


Three  youths 


A    \V  A  \'  S  I  [ )  n     M  I  X  S  T  R  E  L 


'  Wji.it   CMtiipaiiy  ;i\v;iits  you?" 

"I  ask  iKi  liillcr,"  Ik-  answered,  tnuchinp;  his  lips 
and  f()re}K';i<l,  'tlian  the  company  of  Uu-  IJhiit'iija's 
excellency." 

"Gmie!"  Siiid  I,  deli,^litol,  "  I  will  h.ar  vour  sb  iry." 

Wc  rode  (III,  at  a  foot  pace,  with  Rachid  abreast. 
It  seemed  that  in  the  roliVe-house  l.\-  David's  ( iatc 
tliis  kaehid  li,i<l  not  loni,^  since  sat  with  tliive  vouths 
ot  iIk'  town.  '"Come!"  said  ont.';  "how  shall  a  youiii,' 
man  fire  in  Ixi^yjit.'"  'It  is  beyond  doulit,"  an- 
swered anMthcr,  "that  hr  will  easily  i)rosper." 
"But,"  asked  Raehid,  "Imw  >h.ill  a  vouhl;  man  with 
but  three  eo]iper  hcsliliks  to  his  name  j;o  d.iwn  {< ' 
E^'ypt?"  "in  tliree  da>-s,"  rcjilieil  thi' sreond,  "'wo 
rieh  trawlK'TS  depart  from  Jt  rusaiiin  to  c-ross  the 
desert, as  it  is  said  in  the  town;  there  is  nothint^  easier 
tliaii  to  take  ser\iee  wiili  tluni."  I-'aiiiiifj;  to  o1)tain 
this  service,  R;u'hid  detL'nniiiid,  ne\ertheless,  to 
tolldw  liis  adwnture;  he  would  s.,'0  down  to  Iv.^'\-pt, 
cotne  what  mijjit,  and  there  abundanth'  pros])er. 
"1  will  depart  this  very  ni,L;ht,"  thou-ht  he.  "  nm- 
nin,Lj  in  ad\-aiice  of  these  travellers,  and  when  three 
days  of  their  journey  ha\-e  passetl  I  will  present  my- 
self with  all  tlie  wit  tliat  I  huvv.  Deli^'hted  with 
rTie,  they  will  bei,^  me  to  accompany  them,  and  I 
will  tell  nian_\-  stories,  sin.!,^  nianv  son.t^'s,  be  watchful 
in  ser\-ici',  never  failinij;  in  .ijoodduniior,  so  that  when 
the  jovu-ni'y  is  o\-er  they  will  ,i,n\-e  me  a  ^ift  i.f  ,uold, 
with  which  I  shall  fouml  a  forttme  in  E^t^fN-jit."  1m-(  iin 
Jerusalem,  then,  Went  he  to  Hebron,  to  the  Bedouin 


i  . 


GO  I  NT,    nn\V\    PROM 


i:  k  i;  s.\  1. 1:  m 


vi Halt's,  t<)  Bcersheha,  and  Id  thr  jilains  hfyoml, 
wluTi',  c'onipdlnl  now  of  hun^iT  ttt  lie  ovortakin,  hi- 
had  awaitifl  our  caravan,  spending  the  nij;ht  in  tin.- 
o|K'n,  lest  his  intention  to  depart  from  I'alestiiU'  be 
(hscovcred  1p\'  llie  soldiery  of  the  town. 

The  k'lhtu'iijii,"  he  eoneUided,  ilesiK.Tately,  "will 
lie  iKli^'hteil  with  nie." 

We  accepted  liim  forthwith. 

"I  should  like,"  said  he,  now  frankly  cryin  ;,  'to 
kiss  the  khawaJLi's  hand  in  token  of  my  liondaj^e  to 
his  j.;enerosity." 

"Had  you  not  rather  eat  a  I'mF  "f  thi'  klirr^iiii's 
bread  ?"  I  asked. 

He  insisted  thai  tliis  was  not  so,  but  ate  with  in- 
terest, yt)U  may  bi'  sure,  when  he  <^i>\  the  bread  in  his 
tinj^ers,  and  then  fell  back  to  accompany  the  mule- 
teers. At  noon,  while  we  lay  resting,'.  I  heard  the 
lau.uhter  of  llitir  approai-h,  and  conciised  tluin  a 
happy  company;  anil  I  observed  as  they  passeil  that 
they  travelled  in  a  iostlini;  ;j;n»up,  with  the  ro,i;uish 
Rachid  declaiming':  in  the  midst,  his  hands  <.,'estnrinj,', 
his  eyes  w'v\v  witli  the  excitement  of  his  tale,  so 
forgetful  in  this  occupation  <if  the  r  ai,L;h  plact's  of 
the  road  that  hi'  stumbled  as  he  w<.nt.  When  I 
tm'ncd,  it  was  to  the  amazing  discovery  of  Aboosh 
in  the  act  of  listening  to  the  departing  story.  He 
lifted  a  finger  fur  tli.  iiiilulgence  of  silence — for  a 
moment  longer  corked  liis  ear — and  presently  (with 
all  the  muleteers)  lairst  into  a  roar  of  laughter  as  the 
entertaining  Rachid  concluded  his  recital. 

32 


\'I 


TKAKS    l.\    Tin;    Nir.llT 


Wl :  fne.miiKvl  ,m  ;i  grassy  i.laiii  uIrtc  loot-paths 
trosstfl— f()ot-patlis\vanilfrinj(  idly  iif)\vhcro  fit 
soonicd),  used  by  })arc-footed.  casual  UAk,  goiuj,'  with 
«rave  steps.      It  was  not  a  namolcss  place;  Lnt  I  i  an- 
not  spell  the  name,  nor  can  any  one  I  know.     Near 
by  was   the  sun-baked    mud   slK)p  of  an   Kgyi)tian 
trader  with  a  wily,  oily  way,  situate  conveniently 
at  these  cross-roads,  who  kejit  cheap  thiii}.;s  for  sale, 
but  must  have  starve!   had  his  stomach  l.ccn  r,f  ;, 
lusty  sort.    The  black  tents  of  a  shepherdini;  Hrdnuiii 
tribe  were  set  in  orderly  arranj^jenient  l)eyond  :  w  hnuc 
was  no  issue  of  commotion,  Iml  onlv  the  ajiprarine 
lights  of  hearth  fires  fin  that  dusk)  and  {\w  dn. iic  of 
a  sleepy,  amicable  life.     Here,  indeed,  was  a  peaceful 
pros])ect  of  darkeninj,'  space  and  .irrass  and  hi,i,rh  sky; 
and  it  was  very  still  in  ilic    /orM  ;  I   fancied  that  in 
this  obscure  by-place  all  jicnple  went  on    tipt..,.  and 
spoke  in  whi,spers.      In  the  vision  of  those  mild  days 
It  ai)])cars  to  me  now  as  an  cxjiression  of  the  Twi'nty- 
tlnrd  Psalm,      It  was  a  fertile  pasture,  a  pfreat  land, 
stretcliin,!,,'  unbroken,  saw  whei-e   iIk'  nc^w  p]out,died 
brown  earth  ^aw  pronn'sc  of  the  sustaininrr  green; 

63 


.i 


■1 


(W^lXd    DOWX    FROM    J  C  R  U  S  A  I,  i:  M 

and  lliouph  no  riwr  was  flowiiii^  near,  wi  tlierc  was 
a  s])riiij,'  of  water,  wheiicf  the  Htilouin  cliiMreii  came, 
(lri\infj  donkH'Vs,  hcariiij,'  '^wni  water-iars,  inakins^r 
no  souiiil  hut  a  sott  ami  musical  cncourat^cnicnt  as 
they  swilclicil  and  called  the  hoini^ward  wav.  When 
ni,^ht  was  come  at  last  -the  Arab  llrt'S  extinguished, 
the  last  child  lionie  from  the  well,  the  cnmson  <^low 
of  day  withdrawn,  the  splendor  of  stars  ajijiearin^i,^ 
above  tile  x'acant  shadows  (jf  uie  ]'lain — we  lay  (.kiwn 
to  sleep  with  willing  souls. 


I  was  awakened  in  the  ni^diL  by  some  (.me  sul)l>ing 
by  the  tent  door. 

"Who  is  that:-'"  I  calk'd. 

There  was  no  answer;  but  ])rcsentl\-  I  heard  .\bor)<;li 
wlHs])crin;j;  in  a  soothin-,'  wa\-,  Ai;ain  I  demanded 
to  know  the  cause  of  this  .urief. 

"  It  is  Racliid,"  Aboosh  answered  :  "  he  is  h.oniesick 
for  h.is  molher." 

Poor  Rachid' 

"  Rachifl  asks  me  to  say,"Abf)osh  C"ntint:ed,  .after 
an  inter\-al.  throu.yh  which  the  wiTiehed  bov  had 
sobbed  and  sjioken  and  chattered  tin  the  en],]  uiolit 
air),  "  that  he  wislies  the  klhihaiii  to  slee]i,dreannn,i,^of 
him  as  smilini::  in  the  li;,.,dit  of  the  kliiih\iia's  fa\-(.ir." 

I   ]iromisi'd    R.achid   this  indui.L^ent'i'. 

"He  has  ne\'er  before  been  from  home,"  said 
Aboosh,  inter] )retin,L,^  "and  is  much  sur])rised:  the 
width  of  these  plains  has  tVi,^hteneii  him,  and  he 
wishes  for  the  buildings  of  some  city." 


TR  A  RS    rx    THF-     XIC  IIT 


"Pnn-idr  hini,"  s;ii<l  I,  distressed,  "wilh  suT- 
ficieiit  to  return  to  Jerusalem." 

Then'  was  thi'U  a  .L^reat  whispenn.t,^  witliout.  T 
di'tei'led  in  the  xoiee  <,{  AIkimsIi  a  deal  of  admonish- 
ment; he  was  a  i)ers()n  most  fa!herl_\-  to  the  unfortu- 
nate (heeause  of  t!ie  exliaustini:  experieiiees  of  his 
youth),  but  was  n  )\v  liardly  m<.re  than  a  man  .errown. 
Rachid  ])rotested  :  he  had  t'orijjwt,  it  seemed,  llie  wish 
lor  Ins  mother. 

"Conud"  I  eried.  im])atient. 
"Tie  will  jH'rsist,"  Alioosh  answered. 
"Hut  why,"   I  com]iIained,   "if  lie  is  to  continue 
tmha])i)y "' " 

Alioosh  laui^lied  softly. 
"Well:-"  said   I. 

"I  cannot  tell  you  in  En,c;lish:  the  younc;  man  has 
sp(;ken  his  answtT  in  rhyme." 
"  Vou  can  trv." 

";ie  says,"  Ahoosh  reported,  laboriously,  "that 
though  the  walls  of  a  room  ,uv  like  the  arms  of  a 
UKAher  in  the  nii^dit,  a  distant  adventure  is  like  the 
]i])S  ot  some  \eiled  woman  obserwd  in  ])assin,l,^" 

"Then  by  all  means,"  said  I,  heartily,  "let  him 
eom.e  into  Ix^'V])!  !  " 

"  I^at  why,  sir.^"  .\boosh  asked.  puzzle<l. 
I  was  ii;lad  to  stand  by  the  s])irit  of  ;joetry  and  to 
welcome  the  ])ursuiL  of  romance  in  a  youth;  but  this 
I  could  not  explaiti. 

"lie  wants  "  said  Abnosh,  in  Innvilderment,  "only 
to  sec  the  liirlits  of  Cairo  " 

35 


i' 


(10  IXC,    DOWX    FROM    JERUSALEM 

"Let  him  st-t,'  tlir  lights  (<\  C;iiro,"  I  nnswcivil.  in 
;i  \\';i\'  Im  l(.';i\i'  iipm  nu  reply. 

That,  was  tlir  ciul  1 1|  it  ■  Ahni  .sli  \\\'iu  to  hoi,  k'a\- 
injij  Rafliiil  tucuii  up  uuik'r  his  mat.  ai^ain,  shixcriiiL^ 
in  the  ni.L^ht  air  surrK'iciitI\-  \i<  make  anv  otiu'r  port, 
hdXW'Vcr  t'xaltr'l  alM)\c  i^'n iss  conit'orlaltk'  ihinsjjs, 
willins:;  to  cxch.iiii^'r  a  rh_\-nif  tor  the  warmth  of  a  riiir 
and  an  enclost-il  room.  Ikit  I  was  troukk'il;  il 
Seemed  to  nu\  afli'r  alk  tliat  the  adxenture  ot"  this 
poet  —  east  unknowing  into  the  i(reul\-  W(jrld  of 
Cairo— wot:].  1  result  disastroll^l\■. 


VII 


(■."f\i',     I-A-^r    AM)     WFCST 


"lA/'l--    niM\i.,l,  ^,,,,11    .liter   ,l;i\vn,  into    the    lartlicr 

VV    |.l,iiiis,  tMw.ii-ii    iIr.   .IrMTt.      I    ivnimilirr   that 

thr    white    imilr,    wlm-h    Ir.l    the    ciravai.    .if    juek- 

aiiimals,    iKMhrki.,]    with    heails  aii^l    iiiaiiv   l.rlls,   ac- 

conliii.t^r  t,,  hrr,ir-ixv,  aivl  jealMtis  >,\  that  kM^lrrship, 

was   impatient   \n   ]>v  ,i;one   wilh    her   loa-].    knowing; 

w.H  eii'iii^h  tliat  she  ini-ht  not  i\'St   (nor  niiL,^ht  an\' 

nriik'tet'i-)  tnitil  the  sinrH  ot'  walei-  nnlieali'.l  the  t'lid 

o|   her  ihiy's  labor.      ■'Whishie"    -t  hat  stra\-  doi^r  ,,1' 

jerusakMn  whieh  had   toll.>\ved  our  fortunes  for  dear 

and  eonstant  love  of  tiie  white  mule  -    liarked  her  into 

snkser\iene>-  to  the  raueou:,  eommands  of  .\Ii  .\kih- 

nioud    in    a    fasliiou    m,,st    intelli.i^n'nt.  knt    then   nes;- 

leeted    he!-  utterlx',   hein.L,'    interesle<l    in    the   pin'suit 

ot  ,L,n\'at  krowii  field-nnee,  whieh  she  eould  not  resist, 

and    m   eertain    itncsl  i,ij:ations  of   the   sand\-  .ground 

<|inte  heyond  humans  lo  fat hotii.      W'c  wrrc  i)resentlv 

Koiie    from    that    ]iea((hil   eneami>menl.    t<»   whieh    I 

shall  e\i'r  wish   to  reHn-n,   for  the  sak.^  of  that  still, 

.grassy  spaee,   the  ,Ln-een    fertility,   the  soft-sIl(\^kinl,^ 

roked,  and   ha n  footed   inhabit, nits,  (|uietly  li\ing-- 

lairly  under  \\,iy,   now,    the  eamp-lolk    toUowing,  if 

.5  7 


M 


i:   1 


('<»1X(,    DOWX 


l<  < '  M    j  !•:  R  V  S  A  1.  i:  M 


I  I 

I' 


lati,L,'litcr  (r^aclii.l  iKHij^wuii  thciii)  and  ciiiklini,' 1k-I!s 
meant  anvthintj. 

\\f  in-uetHMlc'd,  ndinu  lazily,  in  the  s])irit  liftin.i,' 
Ki-.itrtul  amis  in  thr  new-wasIiiMl  sky,  to  the  sun'^ 
slniK',  the  ,i,MVcn  of  earth.  I< .  ihc^  co(,l  ,ie\v,  falK.n  thick, 
and  mure  l(Aely  than  diam.ind-sparkhn.i,'.  u]H,n  the 
soft  ruad  we  travelled  and  all  the  uorl.i  hevond. 
I5y-anil-l.y  we  fell  m  with  a  Bedouin  in  transit  (jver 
the  plains,  as  one  mo\-in^r  ],is  househoM.  and  sLopjied 
to  c.xchanj,^'  the  salutations  of  the  road.  It  was  a 
curious  procession:  a  .>;fa\el\-  robed  nian  on  the 
e.xtrt'me  of  a  small  donlcey  iwith  a  foal  fo!lowin.L;) : 
two  lean  eaniels,  of  teiuler  ,i-r.  laMrin-  no  loads; 
two  women  an<l  \arious  children  (numlierin.u  not 
more  than  lomM.  walkm.ij  afoot :  three  frowsy  horses, 
I)urdened  to  the  uttermost;  a  led  marc,  and  Iwo 
diminutixe  oxen. 

"Where  '^i*  yuu.  frien.],'"  I  asked. 
"  I  ehan.Lre  m_\-  phue,"  said  he. 
"  But   why '"   I   pursued. 

"There  was  tioihing  left  in  the  place  I  was."  he 
answered. 

"To  what  ])lace  do  y,  ,u  -o?"  I  asked,  the  plain 
apparently  ol'ferin-  no  hettcr  situation  than  that 
which  he  had  abandoned:  the  whole  ,^r,„,d  pas- 
ture. 

"To  some  other  place,"  said  he. 
"  What  ad\antaii;e?'" 

"  By  God!  friend,"  he  replied,  testily,  "  it  is  an->ther 
place." 

38 


we:    were    presently    gone    from    TH4T     PFACEi^UL    ENCAMPMENT 


GDI  SO    EAST    AXD    WEST 


vSocTi  tluTuift^T — while  Racliid,  trottin.i,'  by  my 
stirrup,  was  en^'aKccl  with  souk'  talc  of  the  Wise 
Cadi  of  Al  Bursah — we  eiieountered  a  worn  young 
wretch  plodding  eastward  toward  Bcershel)a. 

"Whence?"  I  asked. 

"These  many  da\-s  from  Egypt,"  said  he. 

The  desert  had  left  liim  ragged  and  gaunt;  but  I 
fancied  that,  however  Sf)ent  he  was,  this  blossoming 
and  well- watered  country  would  presently  revive 
him,  and  I  was  glad  that  he  had  achieved  it. 

"Why  this  arduous  journey?"  said  I. 

"It  is  said  in  Egypt,"  he  answiTcd,  hopcfullv. 
"that  a  young  man  will  surely  thrive  in  jtTusalem." 

Rachid  did  not  resume  the  tale  of  the  Wise  Cadi  of 
Al  Bursah.  He  had  heard  the  traveller's  answer; 
and  he  was  perhaps  jierturbed  that  he  should  be 
trudging  hopefully  westw.''.;d  whence  this  gaunt  man 
had  come.  He  wandered  ahead,  and  there  main- 
tained his  distance,  as  we  rode,  aj^pcaring  disheart- 
ened. When  it  came  to  the  beating  heat  of  noon,  and 
we  dismounted  to  rest,  he  sat  rtn  his  haunches,  apart 
from  us,  his  head  fallen  between  his  knees  (who  was 
used  at  all  such  times  to  a  lively  and  encouraging  be- 
havior at  our  elbows) — a  limp  and  clowncast  poet, 
it  seemed.  When,  however,  we  had  eaten,  he  aj)- 
proached,  and,  having  ceremoniously  bowed,  begged 
leave  to  recite  a  little  composition  relating  to  certain 
recent  incidents  of  the  road.  He  declaimed  with  a 
relish, I  need  not  say,  and  with  all  those  little  evidences 
of  delight  with  his  inspiration  to  which  wc  are  used  in 
"  39 


I,   i 


(i<'li\(i    L)(J\V.\    iKU.M    J  i:  R  U  SA  1.  i;  M 

poets;  hilt  yet  !iis  ryos  u.uild  soinrwliat  iMllirlicillx 
stniy  in,ni  ihr  eyes  of  Al  n » psh --^i.,  wIim,,,  thr  \,  rsrs 
must  iiLvds  lie  first  ilclivcml  — i, ,  tl)«,M    ,,f  tlic  /,/;,; 
aw;,/,   wild  imist  nca'SSMi-ily  fail  1..  jHTrriw  the  lituT 
aspects  n\  the  jMKiii.      \,>  .JMuhl  tlic  (Ini-Miiian's  iii- 
trrj)i\lati..Ti  did  the  -enius  (.|  this  strav  vmuiIi  a  dnar 
mjiislice;  tlieiv  was  ik  .  lulp  \\,v  it.  and  1  am  -lad  that 
K.irhi-l   c.uld   n-t    kiiMU-       I   nvall  soiiutliin-  .  ,f  the 
OMiipusitiMii;   That  it  dealt  uitli  the  ivstK'ss  HedMum, 
;i    dull    tellMW,  ehaii-in,-^    his   plaee    without    purpi.se, 
with  uIkmu,  eonlnisled,   was  the  vcuth  t'n.m  l-:-ypl, 
a  man  m(>\e.l  hy  a  mei-eenar\-  arnliitiou  to  undertake 
.1   IKTilous   i,.unie\-;   wheiiee   it   pi^c-ded   t"  desenl.e 
the  hare-l.i-amed  adv.iiture  nf  the  p.  ,et  as  SMUie  hi-li 
aspiralii.n  toward   that    which   1   must  call   komance, 
Rachid    nrti\ed   our  applause    with    jo\-,   and    ran 
"IT.  uith   ••  Whishii^."  the  ,lo.:,   to    join  the  muleteers, 
who  liad  ])assed  l.\. 


In  tliese  <lavs  was  an  a-nvahle  ama/.ennnt  ;  no 
dc-sertthis,  l.ul  a  wide  an.'  t'ertile  land,  Ivin-  Let  ween 
the  sea,  whith  ouce  .glimpsed  hiui'  and  tar  away,  and 
a  ranL;e  of  l.arren  mountains,  tlnve  days'  jouniev  in- 
land. It  yields  almndantly  to  an  ind.oleni  cultiva- 
tion; an.j  for  the  rich  har\est  come  in  the  season  a 
host  of  ea-er  l-:-yptians,  with  tli^ir  lou-  trams  of 
camels,  to  trade  for  the  -rain;  so  thai  (said  thev) 
liiere  w.  re  a  thousand  tents  julched  liereal,.  ,uls.  and 
a  jovous  actixity,  with  spectacles  and  merreniakin-, 
like   a    lair.      Everywhere    I   observed    fra-nienls   of 

40 


V,  O  I  \  G    !■:  A  S  T    A  X  D    WEST 

I'arlhrn  \v;itAr-j;irs.  llnw  Imii;  tlu'  j^'oats'-hair  tt'iits 
lia\c  liirii  iiiii\in^  t>\\v  tlnst-  plains  CiOil  knows,  l)ut 
it  st'cnis  that  vwvy  \i»>\  nf  thr  lan'l  must  in  its  day 
haw  lirrn  a  warm  hrarth.  'l'hr_\'  \\\w  now  turnini,' 
tlu'  Imiwii  fu'Ms,  with  i-anuls  liarmssi'd  h  >  [\iv  ])1iiul;1i, 
111-  scwini;,  in  \\\v  aiiriml  way,  a  hand  scattrrinj;  (>\rr 
Uk'  shallow  furnius.  I  rcnicmlirr  this  as  a  ilrwy, 
])asli>r;d  laiiil,  nl  wet  hmwii  larth,  sliv  tlnwcrs,  <>\ 
wide  sky  and  L^nat  flonds,  (if  lldcks  rL-lin'iiinj^  in 
ihi.'  dusk,  lit  a  Sdtt-spcakini;,  i^rnllc  pe'dplc — plains  nf 
uttrrmi  ist  poari.'. 

Xii  da\'  larki'd  its  sim]ilr  interests.  There  were 
ijjaztllrs  liy  (he  wa\',  little,  leajiin;^'  thin.ns,  llashini;  dlY 
I  mm  a  iier\dus  hrowsiiiL;  tn  the  seelusion  nfdistance, 
ha\inj^f  no  other  eoM^r.  A  ruineil  house,  melaiiclioly 
in  the  miilst  of  a  eaetus- walled  L;ai'den  of  li^-trees, 
informed  us  of  the  deatli  of  a  ;.q-eat  pastoral  sheik, 
.  ('eom]ilished  in  a  ni^lit  assault  li\'  the  enemies  of  liis 
trilie.  The  plains  were  dotti'd  in  a  curiously  regular 
fashion  with  lily  clusters  (not  yet  in  liloom),  set  out, 
like  survi'yors'  stakes,  to  mark  the  lioundarics  of 
ownershi]);  and  hei\'  and  tlu're,  hv  the  roadside,  some 
crusty  fellows  had  raised  liitk-  ridges  of  sand,  like 
gra\es,  to  warn  trcs])assers  from  their  ground. 
Rach  d  sang  low  songs,  and  Ali  Mahmoud  told  tak's, 
and  Alioosh  i\'lated  his  experiences,  and  Yusi'f,  tlu' 
Cook,  woi'ked  his  daih'  miracles  with  a  charcoal  sto\e, 
and  the  white  mule  was  amazingly  industrious,  an 
example  to  tlu'  others,  and  the  dog  companionalile. 
Tra\elling  thus  happily,  we  fell  in  at  last  with  the 

41 


f-i; 
■1! 


1! 


? 


I'   f 


(J<)1\(;     |M)\V\     I'ROM    j  i:  R  USA  [,  F.  M 

canu'l-ridin^  Turks  who  patml  tlu'  rnnititr  t*.  prc- 
vcnt  tlu'  rscapr  nf  tile  Sultan's  unwillini;  sulijfcts 
trnm  I'alrstinr  int..  V.i[\]>t  ( wlicnuiMm  R;uhi,l 
tniTililfd  cxrtTilinL^lx-.  hut  was  nut  (|Urstii  >nf(I  i,  ninl 
tliat  i'\rnin,i;  cmssid  tlic  lumKr  ,it  Raticli,  luurh 
n'lii'\-c(l  ti)  \k'  licyinil  Ahilul  ll.unj.rs  junsWiction, 
whnin  uv  hail  not  Iranicd  lu  low  in  his  own  do- 
minions. 

'Icrc  bc'j^'an.  almiptly,  likf  a  hald  spot.  \hv  sandy 
(ii.,(jrt  of  ICt  Tih:  and  hwr  \vr  cntiTcd  the  ancient 
caravan  routr  to  Cairo.  I'min  the  summit  of  a 
j^'entle  rise  of  fad  ins,'  ;^Ti'en  earth  we  first  behold  the 
yellow  e.xpanse  and  a  ])ateh  of  cool  lihu'  sea:  and  we 
Were  mueh  inowd,  so  that  we  paused,  without  in- 
tention LO  halt,  and  s])(;ke  ne\er  a  word  at  all.  It 
seemed  (I  recall)  that  at  some  other  time,  having' 
come  to  the  crest  of  a  little  hill,  I  had  stood  un- 
expectedly confrontin,^  an  infinite  distance  of  hot 
sand;  and  then  I  remembered— the  im])ression  of 
that  other  moment  vnadly  returninj^— that  I  had 
ne\er  looked  upon  a  desert  before,  but  had  once  first 
seen  the  sea. 

"Well,"  Abonsh  ejaculated,  snapping  the  tension, 
'■  there  it  is!" 

All  at  once  the  younger  kliLra'aja  spurred  his  horse 
toa  gallo]);and  the  whole  caravan,  with  much  shout- 
ing and  noise  of  bells,  clattered  down  the  hill  at  a 
furious  pace  and  crossetl  the  boundary  into  Kgypt. 


VIII 


A    FI.ICA    ()\     ;  mc    liOlNDAKV    I  INK 


UXTIL  this  tinir  there  Iiad  coine  willi  us  from 
Ik'liron  a  Turkisli  solilier,  ridint,'  a  ymin^ 
camel  whose  virtues  lie  boasted  —and,  indeed,  ex- 
hibited: the  clean  hnibs,  tlie  stride,  and  the  docility 
of  the  beast.  It  seemed  a  worthy  camel:  a  camel 
of  excellent  humor  and  of  distinj^uished  ])romise; 
and  it  was  much  coveted  by  the  way.  At  nij^ht,  as 
the  custom  is,  the  man  was  used  to  sleeping  close  to 
his  beast,  the  winds  being  chill;  but  now,  at  Rafieh, 
while  the  mules  were  unloading  and  the  cook  was 
coaxing  his  fire,  he  tethered  the  camel,  flung  his 
saddle  on  the  sand,  and  went  oJT  to  the  mud  barracks 
to  hobnob  with  the  Egyptian  frontier  guard.  I  was 
])resently  alarmed  by  the  co()k's  outcry  and  a  rising 
excitement  in  canij):  the  docile  camel  was  viciousH' 
trampling  his  master's  saddle,  stujiidly  believing 
that  he  was  engaged  in  his  master's  murder — a 
savage  and  dreadful  attack,  a  rearing  and  heavy 
])lunge. 

"What!"  ejaculated  the  Turk,  when  he  was  in- 
formed of  this.     "  Have  I  cherished  a  man-killer  ?" 

The  camel  was  heartily  beaten  and  reduced  to  his 

43 


<■')  I  \  '.    ixi  w  \    I-  R()  \i    I  i:  k  r  s  \  1. 1:  M 

kiK'cs,  uIi.rniiM.ii  Ins  .louMcl  fore  leg  was  tied  so 
that  hi'  o.tilil  nsr  hut  with  Wuticiilty.  and  \vr  witli- 
(Irt'W  to  observe  his  Ik  li.iMnr,  lor  his  master  was  not 
yet  convinced.  Rise  h.'  Mid,  ,,  pirsislmt.  silent 
effort,  ,iMd  r.iutiously  .ii.pro.K'licd  th,.  s,„ldle.  which 
he  attaeked  as  savaj,'ely  as  belore,  but  now  uiih  oik- 
hoof. 

"1    h.iw   had   ,1    narrow   (-^Mp,',"   said    tiir   Turk; 
'"'.'    catiirl    would     haw    kallcd    n)c    i,,  lULdil.       liy 
<'""'  ""'  M"h.innnrd  thr  I'lMpl,,.!  ..H\,.ir'  1,,,  swotv. 
■'  '     ;''!  I""   ">'■  '"■.'^'  in  fli.'  l'.-/ar  ,it    I!rersliel);i." 

I  iiii|uiri'd  enn.-(  ruuii;  thr  future  .iwiur's  pmspcet 
ot    I'liiif  life. 

"\\r  :s  III  Cidd's  h.aiids,"  was  the  .luswcr. 

This  is  a  dispositinu  imu-Ji  tran-d  in  ;i  raiiicl;  the 
soMirr'sbrast  H  liev  sa  id  I  sIm  Mild  ha  ve  1  „■,  n  1  ,ulrlu  red 
l-n-  fMf,d,  K.M  he.ier-.niphsh  ,i  murder.  I  have  lie.ird 
"I  a  revcn-rlul  caincl  wliieh  hit  nif  the  top  of  a  hue's 
li^-'d:  hut    thou.c'h   t]ie  disposition   is   known    to  ,,11 

men,  some  s,ay  that  camels. lo  not  eniph.v  their  teeth 
in  attack. 


Raehi.l  was  aflVc'rd  to  the  piteh  of  hrwild.rmmt 
hv  the  ehan.tre  of  .luthonly  over  him.  W,-  were 
evn-y  one  ekated:  one  cannot  pass  at  a  step  troni  thr 
nihniteannoyaiuv.,1  niis.^ovcrnment  toan  hoiiorahly 
re-ukited  domino,,  ,ind  kr„.w  iio  ivlirf.      Thrre  wnv 

those  of  our  company,  indeed.  wliMturnrdahcut  \,,xy. 
■•ird  Palestine  ;.nd  with  meanin-  m,aledieti<,ns  eursed 
that  sovereign  whom  they  called  "'rhe  Murderer"- 


44 


A   I  !,  i:  A  n  \'  THF.   ^^IT\■^AR^■   1. 1  .\  k 


.iiiJ  I  rcc  ill  lli.il  those*  of  us  will)  luii^'lil  li;i\r  kimwii 
bcllcr  uliolifally  fonliil  ;r..  iiii;i,i;iii,irv  line  wliicli  we 
cnntTivi'd  to  lif  llic  lioundary,  ainl  in  unison  (.iltcr 
sonic  hilarious  rehearsal)  fX]ir('ssi  1  a  sul])iiunius  wish 
cnnccrnin^  the  sdf-samc  Mii,'liiv  ()iu',  of  wIkjsc  acts 
wi-  Iiail  li'.itui-il  iniicli  ill  tlic'>i'  months,  Racliii!. 
li<i\\c\cr,  niailc  oil  towanl  the  column  whence  the 
boumlary  cuts  inlu  the  southeastern  deserts,  and 
so  ainazinp;  was  his  hcha\ior — far  off  and  alone  in 
the  red  sunset  li,v;lit  that  1  must  ImIIhw  to  discoxcr 
its  si^niticancc.  lie  would  now  S(juat  in  lCi,'y]M, 
there  ri'mainini,'  motidiilcss,  turned  towanl  that 
ijrccn  and  e\er  '^I'eener  land  whence  we  had  laddeii, 
until  all  at  once  he  wimld  leaj)  into  Palestine,  where 
lu'  would  stand  with  arms  tolded  and  heai.  lallen 
forward,  starini'  thrnutrh  drawn  lir'iws  into  the 
sa  lid  \-  desert  and  to  1  he  unit  mi;  li^lil  i.f  t  he  he-  .ens 
lieyi  111(1. 

"  !  stand  here,"  said  he,  in  \"ast  exciteiiunt,  when 
we  inleiTUi)ted  him,  "  aii'i  ma\-  he  sei/.t'i  1  for  a  soldier 
or  ini|  irisoiied  to  satisf\  ,,  rich  enemy  or  throttled  to 
ple.ise  the  \'ali  (.1  a  prie.nn'e;  Imi  ]  nio\e  out  stc]), 
which  the  kliiin\i;,i  will  ohserw"— he  came  from 
Palestine  intii  h-L^-pt  at  a  heiun- '  — "and  lielmld!  tlu' 
])owi'r  of  these  i,'reat  nu'ii  has  \anished :  1  am  no 
loiiLfer  till  sla\-i'  of  the  old  masters,  Imt  ha\t'  be^ 
come,"  he  added,  with  a  wry  iiiDUth,  "the  ser'.'ant 
ol  masters  whose  faces  1  lia\e  not  stvn  and  whose 
ways  are  new.  I  am  troubled  in  IC.i,n-iit,"  said  he,  re- 
turninj,;  \i>  Palest  me,  "  beiiii,'  a  N'oimu;  man  far  frcjni 

45 


'/;l 


COIXG    DOWN    FROM    J  [•  R  U  S  A  L  E  M 

home  an<l  ij^norant  of  the  customs;  hut  I  am  frij^ht- 
ened  in  Palestine,  because  I  am  a  Moliammechui,  of 
a^^'  1o  serve  in  the  Sultan's  army,  and  ha\-e  once  fled 
from  my  city—"  and  forthwith  tliu  tortured  poet 
hasti'Ued  into  l\L^V]»t 

"  It  is  e\ident/'  I  observed,  "  thai  you  are  doomed 
to  live  the  life  of  an  uneasy  Ilea  (jn  the  boundary  line." 

"  Has  the  blhiwaja  spoken  mv  fate"'" 

"  Xot  so,"  I  answered ;  "  you  mav  eoniinue  with  us, 
truly'" 

"I  have  succeeded  mightily,"  said  he,  in  })ride, 
"in  escajiing  from  Jentsalem." 

"IIa\ing  (le]xirted  without  authority,"  I  demand- 
ed, "how,  then,  shall  you  ever  return?" 

"I  will  never  return."  he  ..nswered,  sadly, 
"  How  shall  you  endure  when    he  old  voices  call '" 
In   the  way  of  ])oets,   his  imagination  was  (luick 
to  respond  to  this  pinjirick;  .md  he  sighed,  rej-lying 
slowly,  "I  will  not  listen." 

"How  if  they  speak  wofully  in  the  night'" 
"  My  heart,"  he  answered,  whispering,  "must  have 
no  ears." 

The  i)0et  turned  his  back  on  Palestine  and  followed 
me  to  the  tents;  and  to  the  joy  of  Aboosh  an<l  the 
muleteers  he  was  ])resentiy  sjiouting  doggerel  in 
some  genial  teasing  of  the  cook,  who  had  chanced 
to  overturn  a  i)ot  of  water  on  his  fire.  I  fancied, 
then,  that  the  determination  to  ad^'enture  in  Cairo 
was  fixed,  and  I  was  glad  that  I  should  suffer  no  more 
in  sympathy  with  the  young  man's  homesickness. 

46 


A    F  L  E  A    ()  X    T  H  \l    H  O  V  X  I)  A  R  V    L  I  X  E 

It  seemed  to  me,  too,  I  recall,  that  some  poem  would 
(hjuhtU'ss  flower  from  his  unha])])y  exjjerience  by  the 
ancient  granite  column,  and  tliat  we  should  be  enter- 
tained on  the  day's  march  with  the  recital,  jKJSsibly 
when  tlie  way  was  hot  and  wearisi.me  and  the  s])irits 
of  our  company  had  droo^u'd  ;  but  there  was  no  ])oem 
ti)  (leh,i(ht  us:  Rachid,  oljserve,  was  as  wayward  as 
any  j^^reat  poet. 


I^M 


IX 


THK    KLXAWAV    liKlHE 


TTI'^RI-:,  then,  we  niHrcd  avjain  thr  dd  vmiv  int.i 
1  1  I'-.^ypt,  tniwlk-,]  tlusr  a-rs,  Imt  ik^w  alnmsl 
■  '■rsakrii.  a  Inii^^,  xdictK'ss,  ,i^]i  iwinL,^  r>a.I,  l- lUchiiiL,^ 
Ilir  slinrr  uf  rlir  sca,  waiK Kriii,L(  ,>vvr  lilistiTnl  salt 
li"ttMiiis,  past  stagnant,  inrnisU'-l  i),,m]s,  thnni-h 
'Kvp  sail,],  .Iriltrd  ill  !;ills,  siii.  .kin-  in  thr  win,]. 
I'luTf  IS  si;inc  c  .niinrrcc  !i.i\\,vn  (la/.a  and  l']! 
Arish,  l.ctw.vn  I-:i  Arish  and  llir  canal.  Lri-l"  trains  df 
•  •anirls  caiTvin-  urain.  and  m  tlif  s.asnn  .lr<  .\cs  i  if 
canuls  pass  I'n  iin  t!ir  yyc:a  Aral.ian  1  K'Srrt  t..  tlir 
markets  <<\  IC^ivpt  ;  1  .nt  nonpulrnt  caravans -o  that 
w  V,  as  tnnncrl\-.  n,  .r  is  then'  anywhere  the  su-- 
.!-;i'stiMn  (i|  a  fMrnier  nn])()rtanct',  saxc  at  !\alieh, 
where  a  liroken  ,i,'ranitc  cohnnn  hes  Leside  tlie  r.iail, 
half  1  itn-icd   in  the  s.ind. 

lH'\..nil  I'd  Arish  is  n.i  1..\\n,  n. .  considcralilc 
''■'''■'''t'""  ""  iimre,  at  that  seasim,  than  the  linls 
-t  the  k.<|Hrs  ,,1  the  wells,  and  wid.'lv  dispersed 
"ri'Mps  ,.|  -'.ats'diair  teiiis,  slieherin"  a  lie;,'-arl\- 
'•few  ..f  lean,  l.>wli\in;.  l!ed<.nins  W,  lis  are  at 
merciful  intervals  .],  ep  h,,K.s  m  die  san.l,  well  kept 
'"   ''""^''  'i^'.vs  df  the  (  )cen|Kiti..n.   l.nt   ace  uinulat  in.^r 

48 


T  ii  !•:   R  u  \  A  w  A  \   in<  i  I)  !•: 

hrackisli,  liitlcr  wattT.  One  \\\\l  n\  swrd  water  I 
rvciiU  in  a  six  days'  jounu'y.  They  may  l)c-  sunk  in 
a  harren,  "-ithout  a  hush  (ir  hlailt'  of  ^rass  to  ^ijraci' 
the  nei,L;hl)i  irho(  111  ;  al  llie  nn  ist.  lieautiliil,  a  ,i,T()\i.'  (if 
(lalc-palnis  rises  fmni  ihe  sand.  Tiu're  is  no  oasis 
dl  the;  inia,L;inalion  on  the  (h'solate  and  forgotten 
eara\an  route  tliat  crosses  the  sandy  desert  of  l':t  Tih 
into  Ei^^yjit.  It  is  a  l.roilinij;  path— hardly  toleralile 
at  inid-d;iy,  even  in  January. 

In  two  days,  llie  sun  a  lih'sUrin,^,  whitediot  li.^^'ht, 
pulTs  of  gritty  dust  rising  with  iistk'ss  wei,t,'lil  under 
tile  hoofs  of  our  horses,  we  were  at  E\  Arish,  a  little 
eity  of  lilindin,^  Sfjuare  white  houses,  buikled  in  deep 
sand,  near  !i\-  the  sea. 


Approachin;,'  Kl  Arish— passing,'  now,  in  the  mid- 
day heat,  o\er  rollinj,^  sand,  from  which,  here  and 
tlu're,  dr_\-,  ,uray  Lushes  spran.u-  ^lur  omipanv  halted 
to  oliser\e  a  curious  and  disijuit'tinij;  siirht  :  a  woman 
in  tlii^ht — sdpi)inL,^  like  a  hare  from  hush  to  hush; 
sto]ipin,L;,  exhausted,  then  venturin.i,'  (lesi)eratelv  on. 
Whither  she  lied,  (iod  knew,  for  her  face  was  turned 
to  the  very  heart  of  the  desert,  and  theri'  she  must 
surely  [lerish:  there  was  neither  w.ater  nor  encani])^ 
ment  in  that  forlorn  direction,  as  we  knew.  Then' 
canu'  over  a  neard>y  rise,  while  we  deliated,  a  Sou- 
dant'se  of  the  i;arrison,  riijin^  a  catnt'l,  whitii  he  had 
at  the  trot,  and  a  Ljraydu-arded  old  man.  will)  his 
loins  ,1,'irt  up,  numin.tj  afoot,  the  hrealh  almost  t.;one 
from  his  cr-  akmi;  lio.ly      At  sIl^IU  ol  the  small,  llee- 

V) 


r,  ()  I  X  (',    [)  f )  \V  \    1'  ROM    j  E  R  i^-  s  A  y,  !•  M 

inj,'  fic,rurc  thi'y  suvrvod  frcni  tlir  roa.l,  hastcn.^d  the 
taltcrin.i:  pacr,  an,!  ])ivsfntly  overtook  thr  fugitive 
whom  tlu'  oM  ,n;in  caught  hy  the  wrist  and  rou-lily 
Iiersuailcl  to  ri'turn. 

"  I  am  her  imele,"  he  explained,  hut  not  unkindly; 
■'she  has  no  other  relati\e,  and  she  has  run  away 
from  her  husliand,  to  whom  I  ,i;ave  her." 

She  was  Inn  ;.  ^irl,  a  child,  over-younj,^  to  he  mar- 
ried, it  seeme.l.  and  thou.i^'h  her  face  was  in  part 
V(  iled  and  in  i)art  concealed  by  ban.i^les,  it  was  ap- 
parent that  she  w.is  comely,  if  only  with  vouth. 

"Has  she  done  a  wroni(?" 

'■  It  is  not  that,"  he  replied:  "it  is  !)ecause  I  guar- 
anteed her  behavior,  ami  must  ii  .w  restore  her  or 
pay  the  penalty." 

".My  '  usbaml  is  old,"  said  the  ,L;irl,  defiantly, 
"  and  beats  me," 

"What  refu.i^e,"  I  asked,  ■'ilhl  you  think  to  find 
in  the  desert  hert'about .'" 

She  answered,  sullenly,  like  a  child,  "I  was  run- 
niiiij;  awaw" 

E\  Arish,  to  whi'  h  we  came  that  dav.  lay  near  the 
sea,  pa.t  a  fruitful,  primitivi^ly  irri.i^'ated  sand  plain 
where  .late-p;dms  and  fi.i,'-trees  and  sprawlin.s,^  vines 
t^rew  m  the  saii.l,  and  where  were  <,'rcen  and  (lourish- 
in-  vegetable  pa^rhes.  It  is  a  citv,  beautiful  in  these 
I'.n-ts,  of  many  low  whit,  houses,  blindin-  in  the  sun- 
li.iiht,  of  streets  ankle  deep  witli  sand,  of  bazars  and 
mos(|ues,  of  a  small  military  establishment,  under 
the   English,  a   city  of  eiL;ht   thousand   inhabitants 

.so 


FL      ARlSH       THi;      HALF-WAV      CITY      OF      THE     CARAVAN      ROUTE 


Il'.'l 


THE    R  U  X  A  WAY    R  R  I  D  E 

(I  think) — a  seat  of  justice,  at  any  late;  for  next 
nidrnuij,'  the  runaway  wile  was  taken  Ik  Ior'  the  eadi 
of  the  district  for  judgment  '  1  will  not  ]\\v  with 
my  husl)an(l,"  said  she,  "exeejit  I  ha\e  niv  will  in 
a  certain  inatter."  The  cadi  asked  for  an  e.\])lana- 
tion,  whereu])on  a  curious  thini;  ha])])ened.  "'  It  is 
my  will,"  said  the  ,uirl,  "that  my  imele  shall  j^'ivc  his 
dauj^'hter  to  my  husliand's  eldest  son,  which  he  has 
refused  to  do.  Upon  these  terms  I  will  return  to  my 
husf)and,  and  will  continue  dutiful."  It  was  then  so 
at,Teed  amoni,'  them,  and  the  ijrateful  cadi  dismissed 
tl;em  all. 

They  said  in  the  town  that  the  <,nrl  loved  her 
husband's  son,  and  had  sacrificed  herself  to  his  happi- 
ness; and  of  the  youn.^  man  inxjcl  words  were  spoken. 


The  foreminded  Aboosh  must  here  outlit  tor  the 
longer  stage,  six  days  of  desert  riding,  to  the  Suez 
Canal,  where,  at  Kantara,  was  a  railroad  train, 
Cairo  bound.  It  was  with  a  caravan  of  self-satisfy- 
ing proportions  that  we  departed:  I  was  reminded  ui 
a  ship  leaving  some  port,  a'hundantly  crewed  and 
provisioned;  anrl,  indeed,  we  were  like  those  going 
out  to  the  barren  sea.  There  was  now  a  great  com- 
pany of  men  and  beasts:  Aboosh,  a  dragoman  of 
tact  and  most  perceiving  consideration,  with  Taufik, 
his  lieutenant,  and  that  big  AH  Mahmoud,  of  whom 
1  have  spoken,  who  was  in  almost  sheikly  authoritv 
over  five  cutthroat-appearing  muleteers;  a  cook  of 
engaging  accom.plishments,  the  pock-marked  Yusef, 

51 


flOIXG    DOWN    FROM    J  I-  R  U  S  A  Iv  E  M 


'•I 


wi'h    ICIi.is,   tlir  S(T\in.i,'-lMiy;  ;i   S<  ludaiirsi'  ( dritoral, 
tak<n  Iroiii  the  .^arrisun  mI'  E\  Arisli.  whu  rmist  (tlu'v 
said)  la'.i;iianl  or,  ill.-  wav;  Kachid  m  ji-rusalriii,  tliat 
'KTrlift,  and  .Mustata,  tlu'  cntrrtainiiii^r  caiiu'l-driwr, 
with  his  six  -^1.  .w^iuolnl  lie'astsand  liw  faiiirldioys  — 
null  and  l.oys  in  ihv  nuinluT  of  twi'nt\-,  and  horsrs, 
niulrs,  ildiikrys,  and  (.■anifls  lo  the  nunihiT  df  twcnty- 
t'lur.      l"(.Il(iwin,Lr  alon.t,'  thf  sandy  vnxXv  of  that  j^rrat 
desert,  trailing  (.\ct  the    llal   saltdn.t t^nis  t<i   which 
we  eaine,  it   seenied  a  <'iinii)any  (lis])n)i>(irti(  mate  to 
the  needs  ui  two  nndstentatimis  tra\(  Hers;   I.ul    tlie 
thnllv  Al.MMsli,   who  had  enntraeted   with  iis,  smiled 
indulgently.    saviii;,r,    "It    is    n.ii    the    halnt    nf    the 
dra-(.man    t-.    wast.'    his   <lnllars."      It    luriu.l    out, 
indeed,  that   this  was  n, ,  extiM\'a,L'ant  and  displavt'ul 
l)roL,q-ess:  our    water    wa,s   sjieiit.   .  ar  i)ni\isi.ins  had 
dwindle.l    t.)    the    narmuvst    eonilni-taMe   remainder 
when   we  eanie  to  Kantara  on  llu^  last  dav.      Short 
rations,  a  drop  tor  a  drink,  liad  hei'ii  our  portion  in 
the  event  ol  any  undue  delay. 


THE    DESERT    ROAD 


DI■:^'()^'D  EI  Ansh,  wliere  the  road  departs  from 
i— '  the  shnre,  llie  desert  is  rolling  and  sjxirsely 
bushed:  and  here  is  a  j^jrewsome  ]»lace;  for  (said  the 
Soudanese  as  we  rode)  a  youth  of  the  town,  returning 
troin  tile  sale  <it  eair.els  ni  ICgypt,  with  tin-  gold  in  his 
belt,  had  behind  a  near  drift  of  sand  lu'en  murdered 
b\- one  whom  he  had  befriended,  a  lit'douin  of  beyond 
the  frontier,  broken  in  fortune.  There  were,  indeed, 
two,  for  i1k'\-  travelled  three  together,  and  the  deed 
was  aeeom]ihshe<l  by  arrangement.  "Save  me!" 
cried  the  jjoor  youth,  staggering  under  the  first  blow 
of  the  sword,  and  ran  confidently  to  this  Bedouin; 
but  tlu'  man  ein])loyt'(l  his  dagger  in  a  way  that  may 
not  be  descnlxd,  being  most  foul  and  gory,  and  the 
youth  t'X])ired  at  his  feet.  And  now,  as  we  rode  from 
this  unhaiijiy  sjiot,  we  came  ui)on  a  caravan  of  dis- 
tinction- a  man  of  some  carriage,  clad  in  silk,  riding 
witli  two  lioily  ser\-ants,  a  guard  and  a  sccretarw 
his  iMggage-camels  trailing  behind:  and  lu'  wavered 
loosel>  on  th-  b.aek  of  his  camel  in  a  fashion  mo.st 
painful  and  weary. 

53 


(io  I  .\  (,    Do  W  \     1-  ROM     I  |.;  K  L'SA  |,  i;  m 

"  Mv  ('..Ml'  tVidids."  hv  ^vuiiur^l.  ■'lunv  far  is  it  to 
VA  .\rish'" 

\Vc;  told  iiiiii  tour  hours. 

•i'raiSL'  Ciod'"  said  hv;  "lor  I  have  lnvii  torluiX'd 
six  days  on   the  hack  of  this   iK'ast." 

I  UKiuirol  of  his  errand. 

"I  am  a  jikIl''/'  lie  aiiswcrcil,  "come  this  distance 
Irom  K-ypt  to  try  a  ^irscd  Hcdouin  h.r  murder, 
i'our  hours  ti.  I-:i  Arish  '  Then,  hy  Cod!"  -,n..re 
cluiTfully  -  "we  shall  trv  the  Hcdouin  this  aftcr- 
nnon  and  han^;  him  td-niorrow." 

Beyond  the  frontier  the  Hcdouin  mi-ht  easily 
ha\e  luui-ht  himself  free  with  st.-lcn  -old;  hut  liere 
was  I-^n-lish  jurisdicti<  in 

Riding  once,  jiast  noon,  in  a  lihstcrin.^  j,'lare,  wc 
came  uncx])cctcdly  uj.on  an  old  man,  l)cnt,  lean, 
.■md  gray,  hut  trudging  sturdily  eastward,  ankle 
dee])  :n  the  sand,  ai»i)eari!!g  a  lu^liijcss  figure  in  that 
inimical  waste.  He  w;is  afoot,  aloiu',  clad  all  in  the 
rags  of  a  ])ilgrim;  and  that  he  was  ])iously  inclined 
was  speedily  e\iiK'nt,  for  no  s-joner  had  he  ]>ercei\-ivl 
our  caravan  than  he  remo\cd  from  the  road,  spread 
his  ahba  in  haste,  and  knelt  to  reci'.e  the  ].ray- 
ers,  c(jntinuing  t(j  how  and  patter  until  we  halted 
ahreast. 


"Whither  hound  ?"  said  I. 

"To  Mecca,  khawaia.  to  i)erform  the  ceremonies. 
I  am  come  from  l>eyond  Egypt,  and  am  helate 
cause  of  sickness." 

54 


)e- 


T  111:   I)  i;s  i;  r  t  r  oa  d 


■■  ll,i\c  \-on  iiM  I'lMT  ol'  st;ii\-,i(i()i)  ;"'* 
■■<''"1   is  my  sust<Mi,nuv,    />/,,;,■,•,//„, "  I„.  .-nisutTcl. 
"Xcillirr  drcni  .,t  uiM  IhmsIs  nuv  rohhrrs?" 
"<  'i'  "1   IS  my  shield."' 

■■  IK  IV  is  a  l.-m!y  liilKriinaKr/'  said  I,  in  pity. 
■  <"•<"!   is  Diy  cotnixiuiuii,   klhiu.tia,  and  my  tum- 
lorl."  '  •' 

■'  But  to  die  in  this  wild  desert'" 
"'Idle  will  ol  (ii.d,  kli,ih;iui:  I  am  eontent." 
We  rode  on,  liavm.^  sto,,d,  in  pitv.  to  wateh  the 
I'lous  pil.unni  turn  a  sand -drift,  moving  in  haste 
.■•I'ovehisslreiiKth.and  prc^.sently-  il  niav  have  heen 
two  hours  weene..untered,  in  ;anillv,  a  redd-earded 
nu^'hly  m;in,  iioi  yet  -n,wn  jiast  his  vouth.  wlio  m 
tlus  luMt  h.id  strijiped  to  his  llutterinK^  shirt'  a 
morose,  and  ,in-ry  f.^llnw  (ih.niLjht  we),  now  sweatin.i; 
■ind  out  ol  Iireath,  as  with  running.  He.  too.  was 
in  Iiaste,  it  sec^nied  but  wherc^fore  was  a  mystery,— 
;nid  heeded  us  with  impatienec-  luit  we  eould  not 
let  him  p.ass,  for  he  lia.l  no  .irhic  ,,f  w;,ier,  nor  any 
I'lva.l  that  we  eoul.i  .see,  and  seemed  t..  l,e  travelling 
meontmentl_\-  to  a  bitti'r  death. 

•■  n;tve  you  neither  food  nor  water?"  I  demanded. 
"Two   hours  ^jniie."   he   answered,    "did   you  not 
l';iss  an  old  man  mueh  .qiveii  to  ].ietyand  praying'" 
"  f^earing  an  Ixi^yj.iian  water-bottle.'" 
"The  bottle  is  from  Algiers,  whenee  am  I ;  but  the 
man  is  the  same,  may  God  reward  him  with  hunger 
'Ii"-st.   and      lague'     Fny   tliree   davs,    khan-aja,   we 
travelled  m  Inendship,  and  he  shared  all  that  I  had, 
^  55 


II 


*". o  1  .\  c,   I) n  w  x   F  i<  ()  M    1 1;  i<  IF  s  \  1. 1:  m 

h,i\iii^'  iidllimii  liinisi'll.  liiit  this  moinin.i,',  uluii  I 
awokr,  he  li.i.l  sii.k'ii  ,iw,iy,  .iii^l  I  was  di'StTlol, 
tliic\i-.l  (il  my  ualcr  ;m<l  lire,.'!,  .iii'l  left  lo  du'  " 

We  1,'ave  llio  man  luui.l  and  walcr,  urj^iiij:!:  him  the 
u  liilr  to  lenicncv. 

"\'<i'ir  !hm  iRcnee,"  said  Iir,  "has  sax'cd  the  hie 
'if  thai  's(,'  iriL'iid;  hut  stih.  1  .y  (lod'  will  1  |amisli 
him." 

1  le  il(.|iartid,  rumiiiij^'. 


'I! 


It  scrmcd,  somc'tinics,  after  ivkhi,  thai  tin  cMiT 
khiiu'.ilii  wished  the  day's  ridiii;,,'  nvrv;  and  .Mustafa, 
the  eamci  drnrr.  wi<c  and  kindly  m:m,  WMiild  stride 
smilinj.,'])  hy  his  s  irnip.  in  the  way  u\'  some  in.dia'wd 
reta.iiuT.  "I  will  irll  thr  klui:.\n,i  a  mnst  ixirjlmt 
and  eni^'a.i^ini,^  slm-)',  to  rrh('\r  his  wvarinr.s.  if  he 
will  hut  dei.^n  !u  lislrii.  "  iic  wiinld  hr.'.nn.  Where- 
upon there  WduM  erowd  hear  all  the  mnlelet  rs  and 
ehanee  tollouers  of  diu'  lurtunes;  and  .in  (irderl\- 
eara\an  W'luld  all  at  nnce  turn  into  a  josllin.^  eom- 
Manv  u\  mul(  s,  dnrd<t'\s.  t-amels,  and  liorsi  s,  hir  tlie 
moinenl  ha\-ini;  the  will  <A  their  ahslr.uied  riders. 
'"Idiere  was  oiiee  a  Suhan."  Mustafa  i-elated,  I  rttall 
— and  this  was  approaehin;.,'  Hir-el-.\dh  "whu  lorn- 
mandud  thai  ihere  slmuld  he  no  uecupation  I'lillciwed 
after  sundown  in  his  eity.  'My  city,'  said  he.  'shall 
he  silent :  I  will  hax'e  not  so  much  as  a  whisper  to  (lis- 
tiirli  the  slei'p  of  niy  people.'  And  .alter  that  there 
w.is  no  souikI  ■ -exeei'l  a  tapjiini,':  .a  nu'steriou-  ta))- 
tap-tajipini;,  which   no  serv.ml  of  llie  Sultan  could 

5" 


*    I   7 


THn    DKSF-RT    ROAD 


loc'ilc  <  ir  I'Xi'lain.  Hut  tlic  Siilt.m  tommaiuUMl  ih.it 
till- tuli'nl  'JiMiiM  iniithili.iU  1\-  1  •  iIisi'MMTcil,  situ  i- 
it  \\,is  ills  will.  \\v  said,  to  ({(Ci,  ■  ,ilc  sd  llaj^'raiit  an 
•  'lliiiilcr ;  aihl  (  \  iiif.nlly  a  pour  slio(.'inak(,'r  was  stir- 
prisi'd  at  liis  I  iliof,  aiiil  lorlliwilli  halfd  l)ctori>  the 
Snllaii,  to  aiKWrr  to  tile  a(  cusatioii  that  he  was  the 
most  cjisolu/ilunt  suliii'tt.  it)  all  thr  latid. 

Coitir''  (Tied  tlic  Siillati.  Ill  aii^cr,  'is  it  true 
that  \-oii  ate  a  disol  irdicill  tcllow,  who  musl  Icjsc  his 
hra.!?' 

"'Il  is  true,'  answered  the  jioor  sltoctiiaker,  'tlial 
I  haM'  ihsohi'Ved  yotir  .Maiest  v's  commaml,' 

"  i5y  this  candor  the  Suhati  was  atnazed.  ''riu'ii 
\'-hy.'  !)■'  denial!  leil.  diave  you  vcnluii'd  your  life 
in  this  nni>ri  >lltai  ile  I'ashion  ■'' 

"'Alas''  eried  the  culprit.  'I  musl  labor  for  the 
one  ]>y  tii,i;]it  and  tor  the  other  li\-  dav." 

■"'"he  Sultan  aski'd   lor  an  exiilanation. 

'"I  am  the  slax'e,'  answertd  the  shoemaker,  'of 
n  rohlier  and  a  crt'diti  ^r." 

'"What  rohlier, '  demanded  the  Sultan,  'has 
esca])ed  my  law,  and  what  creditor  is  sf)  rniel''' 

■"The  rohlier,'  answerei]  the  shoi'tiiaker,  'is  mv 
dau.iihter,  who  takes  from  me  l<ir  elothini;  which  she 
iii'eds  not;  and  the  creditor,'  said  he,  'is  mv  son, 
to  whose  future  I  am  in  ijrievous  debt,  since  I  have 
lathireil  him,  and  owe  him,  (j<m1  knows,  what  he 
may  achieve.' 

" "  \'our  ilau^hter,'  said  the  Sultan,  i)k>ased  with 
tile  answer,  '  I  will  ;;ive  to  a  husband,  your  son  I  will 

57 


'.'/ 


jin.. 


r.  n  ixr.   do  \\  x   fro  m  j  e  r  u  s  a  l e  m 

lake  into  my  scrvicv;   and  will  \(,u  Mien  cnnliinir  Id 
dcsnitt'  int •'■" 

"  '  NVwrinoiv/  answiTc!   the  sh.  Kinakrr." 

I  thankt'd  Mustafa  tor  tiic  stiii\'. 

"Lal^or  in   \our  srr\icT,  /.7;.;,\\//</,"   lie    ansuvrcd, 
sinilin.t,',  "is  like  ixsl  " 

Thc'Si'  were  talcs,  t(ild  in  ancit^nt  fashion — as  to  the 
CantcTl.ury  ])il.m-iins,  —  to  ri'liesv  tin-  trdnini  of 
travi'll-nc,'  ahorse.  And  many  a  tale  was  told;  but 
of  all  that  the  elder  kluru'uiii  could  t,'i\(,'  m  return, 
none  so  deli.i^dUed  our  followers  as  the  tales  of  the 
camel  trader  from  Ain  el-Kautii -that  cunnini;  ras- 
cal!—with  whom  I  had  fallen  in  at  Damascus  and 
concerning  whom  I  shall  now  relate  what  l.efell. 


xr 


THE    CAMEI. -TRADER 

FT   was  a  fortunate  cncountrr  of  a  windy  ni,c;ht  at 
1  the    khan    <if    thr    canU'l-ilriMTS -- tiiat    with    the 
canicl-tradcr  fnun  Aiii  el-Kautn,      Damasc  s  was  in- 
doors -in  the  coffee-houses  and  khans  and  .shuttered 
dwelhn,u;s— or  timidly  al.road.      Now  were  the  nifjhts 
befort'    tlie    |)il<4riinai:.';   outeasts   and    thieves,    come 
troni   the   mountains   and    lU'arer  deserts,    hirkcd   in 
the  dark   iiazars,   slinkin,:^   in   from   the  allevs.     Ap- 
prentices, left  to  lock  the  stalls,  lielated  artisans  and 
shojikeepiTS,  voun.u  sparks  of  the  town,  honest  foot- 
passen<;ers  of  i'ver\-  condition,  made  haste  and  wisely 
kept   to   the    wall.      Beyond    the   security   and   com- 
fortable i^dow  of  the  Suk  .Mi  I'asha  a  woman  was  on 
her  knees,  in   the  darknt'ss  of  the  ass-marker,  wail- 
in.i;:   '' Vnv  God's  sake,   ,t,M\-e   me   bread!     The  i;rain- 
merchants  haw  strii)])ed   tlu'  i..)ov_  curse   them!     A 
nuiallik,  men,  for  bread.     In  the  name  of  God,  f;ive!" 
.\   fool   with  a   tahl,   Iicatinjj;  on   that  little  drum  an 
accompaniment  to  a  foolish  soul;,  ran  joyously  past. 
1  wo  men,  wrajipcd  from  the  weatluT  in  j^reat  cloaks, 
came     stridinj:     down,     <,'igantic    in     the    shadows, 
swords    dragging.     Tney    ])aused    by    the    beggar; 


i 


•'•'/ 


<  ■  "  1  .\  ( ;     1 J  U  W  X    F  R  U  M    j  !•:  K  U  S  A  I,  !•;  M 

havinj,'  cursed  aii-l  liclaliorcil  thr  do-s  that  tn  uMrd 
tlu'iii,  they  Wfiit  (.11.  Tlu'  w.  .man  was  Kll  al-nic 
a,L',a.!ii,  sli!!  raisiiiL:  Iht  doleful  el. din  u'. 

AcTMSs  the  des(Tt('(l  sijuarc,  in  a  hazar  of  llu'  podr, 
a  iiall-wittid  \riid(ir  di'  shri'])'s  tails  waslmddK'd  .  ,\-ct 
a  cliarioal  fin.  patiently  exjieetini:  'ale  eustoniers  as 
a   L,Mt't   fn.tii   Cl.id.     The  tatters  <.;  a   rotted   eanojiy 
swayiii.t;  in  the  wind  with  a  trailin.i;  vini>  shut  out  the 
clear  li-ht  of  the  stars.      It  was  luTe,  hut  somi'what 
past  the  rv<]  li-ht  of  the  half-wit's  tire,  that  the  Inter- 
preter stunil.Ie<l  o\er  a  litter  of  ])ups   sound   asleep 
in    the    retuse.     Starlin,-^'   away   from    the    ytlp   and 
,1,'rowl,  lu'  unhaj.pily  ehaneed  to  tread  on  a  eripj.led 
I"'\-,   who  iiad  eurled  up  hv  the  wall.      We  appease<l 
the  oui    -v;   liut  to  isea])e  the  confusion,  whieh   in- 
stantly hei^'ati  to  gather,  must  dodi^-e  into  a  windiu'^ 
alley— a  strip  <if  velvet  sky  ahove,  puddles  of  yester- 
day's niiii  underloot;  ilu'  walls  lu-h,  l.lank,  ajiproaeh- 
m-  I  overhead  ;  the  rloors  all  shut  and  liarre<l.     Present- 
ly, as  we  went  with  caution  over  the  shppery  stones, 
a    ra-U'ed    /,-//,;/;    hrushe.l    past.     Then'    issued    then 
from  the  khan  of  the  came]-<lrivers  a  Mack  Hedouin, 
his  kajjiyvh  and  ./i,',;/  and  <;/'/>,;  all  awry,  who  lie-an  to 
raise  a  -n-at  elamor  at   the  heels  of  the  /V/A///,   he- 
seeehin.i,'  him  by  Co,!  to  return  and  l.e  a  witness  to 
the  truth  of  his  eonteiuion,  for  he  was  heini:  rohlied 
I'V  a  eanie!  (lri\-er  from  Hai^hdad. 

L''d  hy  these  misehaiiees,  we  followt'd  to  the  staMe- 
V'anl  of  the  khan,  incidents  of  a  nii^nd,  frow/.v. 
Kra\ely  enwrapped  -n.up,  in  the  midst  of  which  the 

f)0 


THE    CAM  EL- TRADER 

J.lLih  and  the  Mack   Bcchniin,  <lisi\'.^ardin.t,'  the  in- 
ti-i';i(in,  li.cl  alrrady  oivupird  llu"  caiiu'l-driwr  in  a 
lashion    anKi/:in<,^iy    noisy    fnr    tln'    ..evasion    of    llir 
disjnitc — the  matter  of  a  cracked    coin.      Here   was 
a  situation  of  much  promise,  as  it  seemed:  a  trade 
and  a  craek.'d  />cs7(/;7,',  a  /,■//,;/;,  a  I.lack  Bedouin,  and  a 
I'arnehchiee'    '"n.m    Ba.ijlida.l,    fast   apim.achin},^    the 
point  of  >.x])losion.     They   would    presently  take   (I 
laiu'ied)   eitlier  to  a  sava.qely  brutal  stal,liinj^  or  to 
Some  maidenl>  slaj.pini;— tliere  was  no  tellinj,'  which. 
Ihit  tluTc  was  no  climax  of  the  sort:  tlie  keejvr  of 
the  khan,  inopportunely  ajjpearin.i;  at  the  moment  — 
a  oiie-eyi'd,  hoM:--nosc(l  man,  lean  to  the  hones — put 
•'"    '"'1    1"    the    .lispute    l>y    fenn'iouslv    cjeilini,'    the 
tliree  ami  l.arrin.L^  the  dowr.      What  hapjuiied  in  the 
.illey  I  (1(,  n..t  know,  for  I  was  fortunately  not  ejected: 
hi;t   within,  in  the  c  mrse'  of  a  hwly  .jiseussion  of  the 
merits  ot   the  ease,    I   made  the  en,L,'a,i;in,n^  acfjuaint- 
ance  of  the  pious  camel-trader  from  Ain  el-Kaum, 
with   whom,  shortly,   I   was  not  only  drinking  eoflee 
m  the  crazy  l)ai..'n\-  ahoxe  the  slahle-yard,  hut  en- 
j"yin,t,'  with  him,  as  he  recited   it,  the  -are  ilavur  of 
his  rascality. 

This  was  Ahdulldi, 


"  Listen,  /v7/,Ki •<//■,;"  said  he,  leaning  into  the  candle- 

h.Uht.   his  kan   Lrown  faci'  drawn  with   the  intensity 

t   his  con\-iction,   "and   1  will   tell  you  this:  Let   the 

fool  ,uo  to  the  ass  for  help  in  a  eaniel  trade.      P.y  the 

Prophet,    there    is    no    uiereyl     C;imel    fcjr   caniel'" 

()i 


(i  O  I  \  r.    D  0  W  X    FRO  M    J  E  R  U  S  A  L  E  M 

lie  proceoK'd.   tappni.t,'  niv  skvw  with    tlu^  limna- 
stained  tip  of  a  slender  lorelin.i^iT.      "  h  is  a  sickness. 
By  the  Murcifui!  there  is  no  cure  onee  it  t^ikes  you' 
I  have  known  a  man  to  ,^ive  Ins  sister  to  hoot  in  trade 
lor  a  l.laek  eamel  l.red  at  i'l  jrnsi;  and  I  invsrh'  was 
tempted   to  leave   Hassan,    my   son,   as   h.ostas^v   (nr 
the  payment  of  four  hundred  piastres  I  laeked  "in  thc> 
trade  for  a  Nejd  l)east   on   the   Ba^Iulad  route.      It 
was  not  re(iuire<l.  (iod  and  the  Proi)het  hefnendin- 
tortheman  wasa  fool;  l„u  I  love.I  thatcame!,  and  tlu' 
will  was  witli  me.      I  was  tlien,"  he  he-an.   "seven 
days    on    th.e    road    from   Ra-h<]ad,   leadin.<,'   a    lazy 
Turkestan  l)east,  s(|uare  as  a  bo.x,  haired  Hke  a  hj- 
.Roatof  the  l.ehanon  hills,  with  a  neck  like  the  Proph- 
et's   tree    you    may    see    in    the    Suk  es-Surujiveh. 
Not  a  hundred  rotclsim  the  beast's  back,  .vith  Hassan, 
my  son,  a  feather's  wei.t^'ht  more;  and  yet  she  tiroancl 
at   the   loa.iin.^   like   ,-.   starved    wood-carrier   of   the 
town,      f^ut,    by    the    i^vucv   of   God.  "-with  a   little 
shrujT  of  resignation—"  I  came  with  my  camel,  with 
Hassan,  my  son,  and  with  one  hundred  jjiastres  in 
my    pocket,    to    a    camel-bree.lin.L,'    tribe    (mm    the 
south,  encamped  by  the  road,  and  there-ah,  klu- 

The  tab.e  was  tapped  to  rlcmand  attention. 

"There,  ah,  kliai.M,,,!'-  sighed  the  trader,  gently 
with  a  reminiscent  Ker  of  delight,  "  I  sawa  camel  that' 
was  f,etter  than  my  camel ;  and  I  loved  that  camel, 
and  could  g(j  no  step  lu^voiid  it." 

I  asked  for  the  story  of  the  trade. 

(>2 


TH  !•     (A  M  !•:  L-T  R  A  I)  E  R 

In  lilt'  silriui'  some  cMiiii'l-.lriwr  of  the  pilji^rims, 
hall  asloe]!  on  a  lieaj)  of  nical-lias^'s  in  the  stal)k'-\-anl 
Ih'1(i\v,  Im',^;;,,,  insinj,',  inii;!oriii,-  liis  LU'sscd  .-^Ik-canH'!, 
in  a  lack-inlciTst,  nasal  drawl,  to  i\'nicnil)fr  the  drwy 
^rass  lic'vond,  an<l  \>v  stroni,'  on  llu'  niaivli,  ihal  the- 
tonil.  of  thr  Projihel,  the  Jloly  .M(«(|ue  itself,  might 
surel\-  Ik-  \-isiteil. 

"A  tlea  hop  in  his  throat!"  growled  the  trader. 

The  singer  fell  aslee]>. 


J 


XII 

TIM:    |)K\'ICK    or    AliDri.I.AH 

"  J^ll .\\V .Vi.\,"  till' sliiry  Nwnt  (in,  "I  u.is  iimictcd 
**-  wilh  wilniinitidii.  It  is  t;H'  truth.  I  knew  that  I 
Tiuist  iK'\'isi.'  a  \\a\'  <il  ])iissi'ssin.u  tlir  (."aiiiil  tliat  was 
l>rt  tiT  than  \\^\•  canirl,  nr  ]'f!-'sli,  :\\\A  1  t<  ilil  tlic  <  AvruT 
that    I  liail  I'ahcii  in  l^w  witli  th.c  licast. 

'"("nine'"  '<ai'l  I;  'let  u^  trailc  \'iiiir  can.cl  I'nr 
niinc,  aU'l  1  \\:11  paN'  llir  ihHrrcncT,  h  ir  I  l(p\i-  y<>iir 
c'a!iu-l  nil  «ri.'  than  ni\'  <  )\vn." 

"'hiiw  in',-  wil'i  .  if  \(iii  wilh'  ht'  answcri'il,  'Imt 
haw  ni\'  ih'.L,'  an'l  niv  canirl,  lor  I  am  a  jealous  man. 
Wh'Ti-  is  yiiur  canu'l  '' 

"  Thrii   1  askcii   him  : 

"'Hv  .\llah'  whcrr  is  the  jirofit  iii  cxhihitini,'  my 
(\inu-l  i!  \'(iu  will  nut  jiart  with  Vdurs.'" 

"'I>\-  .\llah!'  saiil  he,  '  wr  slmnM  spruil  time  like 
tnols.      Is  viiiir  t'.anicl  near  at  haml  .' ' 

"'It  is  n' 1  m:il  tcr,'  s,:i'l  I,  't'lr  I  haw  no  nmul  to 
show  her.' 

"  Then    1  led   him  \n  m  •  camd. 

"  '  1 1  is  a  waste  lA  time.'  said  he,  '  tn  h "  ik  twiee  at 
a  heast    t r' itn  Turkestan.' 

"Hut    he   e.xamiueil    my   camel;  an<1    I   nhserwd, 

b4 


1 


T  II  i;   I)  i:  V  ic  !■:  o  i-   .\  \>,  d  u  l  i.  a  ii 

hlh'.n'iihi.  tliiit  lie  i.ii!  1  {i<  (lis(M\(T  ;i  suit  tnKJMii 
in  llir  Icit  liiivl  lev;,  and  I  was  linjicliil.  lor  h,  mciiicI 
'il^*' ■'  t""I.  I'>'it  lie  si'driiid  my  caiiit  I,  alter  all.  a^k- 
in;.,'  wliat  \\v  sIp  mjil  .|<i  with  a  li,,ir>-.  iimim  lui  n  I  n  ,d 
row.  uiiicli  ini,L;ht  rlinih  iiiotnitaiii.-,  iikr  a  '^'nal,  l"it 
was  iMt  i'i|iia!  t<.  a  day's  journey  at  inidsuininiT  in 
the  dt-scrt.  Il  was  true,  all  thai  he  said,  and  tlnTe 
was  Ihc  soft,  tendon  besides,  \n  addition  to  an  e\  il 
teinjaT,  and  a  iratherini;  inider  the  sJKnilder;  hut  lln' 
words  wounded  iiie,  and  (  knew  then  thai  I  should 
haw  the  man's  eaniel,  liy  the  1,'raee  of  I'lod,  it'  only 
lo  teach  him  the  \-alue  of  m\-  own. 

"I  was  humlile,  A//.;;, ',//,;,  and  fojldwvd  them.m  to 
his  tent,  ]. raying-  that  the  la\or  ,  ,t  ih(  I'roplul 
nii,s.,dil  disclose  a  irick  wuh  uhieh  J  could  peisuade 
him. 

"  ■  I  am  a  compassionate  man,'  said  he,  'and  I  w  ill 
take  pity.  (ii\-e  me  yoiu'  licast  .and  ti\e  hundred 
jiiastrcs  and  the  thm,i^'  is  doiu'.  \W  Allah,  and  .Mo- 
hammed the  Prophet  of  Allah'  it  is  m\-  last,   word.' 

'"It  is  a  reasonahU-  demand.'  I  answered;  'hut  I 
haw  iio  .iiore  than  one  h.imdred  pi.astres  m  the  world. 
I  will  Uikv  yoin-  camel,  lea\in,i;  Hassan,  my  son,  as 
security  tor  the  ]>a\-ment  of  the  l.,al;inct\"' 

The  camel-trader  leaned  .'^ain  into  the  eandle- 
li.niit,  his  lonj.;  arm  at  full  leii-th.  his  liui^'ers  stilfeiu'd 
in  the  Heilotiin  f.ashion:  the  whole  tiL,nire  tt'use. 

"  By  the  ^rrace  of  Cod,"  said  he,  '  the  s.acritiee  was 
not  re(|uired'  A'/;,;;.  ■,//,;,•'  I,,,  whispered,  with  a 
cunning   droop   of    the   eye   and    twitch   of    the   lij., 

05 


(K)  1  \ C,    Do  W  X     I-  KO  M     I  i:  K  V  S  A  I.  !■  M 


"there  is  a  jiri'wrli:   Tk'  \'>uv  d'lj;  or  jiay  the  btraii- 
i,'(r." 

The  ,q)]iliratinn  was  unscurf. 
•■  W.H.ih  '"  \\r  (Mntnuic'l,  "  it  is  the  tnitli.  Listen 
It  is  a  law  1 1|  liic  lU'il'Hiins  that  tlic  duu;  wlinh  liitt'S 
a  stranircr  shall  I'c  killnl.  There  is  more:  it  is  rc- 
(|uircil  that  tln'  (Aviicr  n\  tlu'  do.^'  ^hall  reward  the 
straiij^'er  t^r  this  iiiistreatnieiit .  lasleii''"  lie  i)r()- 
ceeiled,  a  little  treniolci  (if  i<i\-.  .  exeiteiiieiit  ill  his 
\(,ice.  "  lU-  the  urat'e  of  ("niij.  I  iiliser\a'd  that,  the 
owner  ol  till'  t-aiiiel  that  was  lietter  than  my  eamel 
lia^l  liieii  iniwise  with  the  do.i;  that  he  lo\i'd  :  and  I 
knew  ij-.en  that  llu'  trade  was  delivered  into  my 
liamls.  tliou'^h  I  had  luit  a  hair\'  'I'urkestan  beast  liy 
the  halter  and  one  huniired  piastres  in  my  pocket. 
"  d  lassan,'  I  saiil  lo  !ii\-  son,  'the  I'luiihet.  is  with 
ns.  ()liserve  that  the  man's  doj^r  is  loose.  Take  a 
lesson   from  what    I  do. 

"Then,  khiiwijii.  when  the  master's  back  was 
turned  I  instilteil  the  do_y  with  .ill  my  im.i^^ht,  and  llic 
ijoL,^  w,is  nnalile  to  withstaiiil  the  timpl.ilion  ot  my 
person,  whieh  1  had  placed  within  liis  reach  1  was 
sorelv  bitten  in  the  le.^.  so  tjiat  my  h\uins  was  torn 
and  Mo  iilv;  Imt  this  1  bore  with  resi;4nation  by  the 
power  of  tlie  Prophet  ai;d  of  (iod.  for  the  man's 
t'.nnel  was  mine." 

•"  I  would  not  take  one  thousand  piastres  for  my 
do'^','  cried  he.  'Come''  he  besought,  'conci'al  this 
Ihint:  from  the  sheik;  ,umvi'  me  one  hundred  jiiastres 
and  your  camel,  and  take  my  beasl.' 

66 


T  11  L    1)  i:  V  !(•  i:    ()  1      A  15  1)  U  I.  LA  11 

"  I  aiiswrrcil : 

"  '  ll  \\i  ml  I  lc.i\  <■  nif  luniiiliss.' 

"'('.lliul    Inr    r.illlcl,     lliiil,'    s.ii'l    111',    'allil    s.iv    tin 

t)lllT-|'.' 

"  I  ;ins\vrrcil  : 

"  '  1   ;ini   tired   ol   walking  ' 

"  '  H\-  Allah!'  sail]  lir.  I  lii\c  nu'  i\>i^:  take  yinir 
raiiU'l  aiii]  my  eaiiicl  ami  ijciiai-l.' 

"  1  ans\vcrc'<l  : 

"'It  is  tnu'  thai  von  low  votir  iIhl^;  hut  wiiM  will 
|)av  tile  thous.iHil  ])iastrfs  the  slu-ik  will  awanl  nir 
tor  the  ilaiiia.i,^'  your  ilo^  liastlMiic.'' 

"  '  W'dltlh  !'  (.rir'i  lie.  ■  lea\"e  llle  al  least  'le  'llist  on 
iii\'  leet  ;  take  one  liiiiiilri'i!  piastres  ami  iHi^foiie,' 

"  1   answefeil  ; 

"'I  an.  a  eomjiassionate'  man,  tliric  luiuilre'l  will 
be  sullieieiit.' 

"And  1  took  two  luimlred  ]iiastres,  A7;.?a'(7M,  and 
his  camel  and  my  eaniel,  and  jouriU'Ved  on  lowanl 
Damascus,  witli  Hassan,  my  son,  who  profiled  niueli 
hv  the  cx])erience." 

The  camel-trader  laiiahcd,  with  liis  little  eyes 
jHickered  iij),  his  li])s  drawn  away,  so  thai  his  IonL,^ 
yclluw  teeth  shunc  in  tlu'  candledight. 


MICROCOPY    RESOLUTION    TEST    CHART 

ANSI  and  ISO  TEST  CHART  '-.c    2. 


1.0 


I.I 


128 

132 


%ii 


I.     1^ 


|2_2 
2.0 

1.8 


1.6 


^     .APPLIED  ir     '~E     Inc 


716)   *e2      0300  '  Phone 


.  \ 


XIII 

THK  TAi.i':  OF  -niic  \i:i;i)i.i;  axd  thread 

Tins  caiiirl-lrailin.L,'  Alxlullali  \\->m  Ain  rl-K;mm, 
in  the  tail's  ni  uhi  ise  i-asi.'alil\-  ( nir  fdlowvrs  (Hi 
tlu'  ilcsrrt  rii;i(l  c]cli;_;]iteil — this  s])an',  ])irrin;^%  cun- 
iiiii--  l\-Il(i\v  in  a  l.|-i.\vn  iil'lm  fallin.L,'  t'nun  his  slioul- 
iKrs  in  yciuTuns  fulls,  with  a  /vW/,7iv/;  nf  white  silk 
shailiiwiiiL;  his  lacr  an'l  kr]it  in  pku'r  with  twn  rnjn's 
(if  canirl's  liair-t!)is  I'cMlMuin  IkuI  liamls  i'a[i,iiilt' 
lit  an  mi'ilinnal  i)rrf(  irnianci'  aniazini,'  tn  lichnM, 
TliLV  wi  IT  incT(.ilil  ily  ^^arrnlims;  there  was  tki  anil  to 
their  I'nninn^  i  m ;  they  were  ne-.er  at  a  loss;  they 
eh.attered  away  with  oily  ease:  creatiii"^^  m  >  hoi-i'ili  mi, 
alwa\s    entertaining^    ami    I'lei^ant    anil    talkatiw    to 

])Ur]ii  iSe. 

They  were  sleiiiler,  loni^-fins^ii-eil,  iKlicattlv  form- 
ed ami  tinteil  hands,  li])|ied  with  smimtli  liille  nails: 
shiiwinu;-  no  niirk  whatsoe\-er,  neither  wrinkle  m  ir 
stain,  1  if  what  is  elsewhere  e;illed  work,  thouL^h.  they 
ha.d  diiulilless  been  hi  nn  iral  il\"  industrinus  mi  nian\- 
a  dark,  halterdi » isiiiLj,  eaniel-thie\-in^  ni^ht.  It  was 
as  thou.^h  they  existed  in  friendly  indejiendenei'  of 
Alidullali— softly  t'irierij;ini,r  from  the  sleeves  of  the 
iihha  when  the  outlook  wa--  threatcnini,',  flvinii;  into 


tali;  ()i-  Till';    x  i;  i:  I)  L  !•;  .\  x  n  tiirkad 

\i<'lrnl  acti'iii  ;,l  cnlical  niiiiiicms.  At  any  ra(c>, 
lliry  Wfiv  iK'WT  idle;  ilu\-  u\tc  c'<  .iilinu' .nsly  in 
attituiks,  (irsiijiU'il  with  inslaiU  an.)  accurate  L,'rnius 
to  illustrate  and  impress. 

The  clever  iiKakery  (.1  Alidullairs  sister,  win.  so 
taseiiialed  the  owiur  i  if  a  hii^'h-hred  eaiiiel  ( ,i  tlu 
Israij;a!i  strain  that,  an  <  iutr;.L':enus  trade  was  in'r- 
I)etrated  aeainst  Iiini,  was  oniwyrd  iint  sm  mueli 
l!\-  Alidullah's  edijuettisli  accent,  1  .)•  tile  llasli  of  his 
eye,  daniii,i,r  with  di'a.lly  intention  frnn,  ihr  shadow 
'if  his  kitfiiych,  as  1  .y  th<-  yieldin-,  Io\-e-lorn  ilrspair 
with  which  !ns  h.aid  fr!l  ilnltcrin;/  upo,,  his  hrart, 
and  there  rcjioscd,  exhausted  Lut  ecstatic.  \or  m 
tlu  tale  of  the  canu  1  with  the  -lass  c\-es,  which  he 
told  l.c'fore  we  left  him,  was  his  coiUeinpt  for  the 
poor  licast  expressed  in  au\-  wa\-  so  tlioiou^hly  as  bv 
the  lilt  of  ihaL  seif-s;une  I  land,  palni  upward,  liidditi;,; 
the  thitiL;  lu'^oni'  fnnri  nieinorw 

Tlu^  hands  were  liusv  indeed  in  supjiort  ,  ,f  the 
I'liiLjue,  until  the  ton;^nie  was  th.rou^li  witli  tlir  talc; 
and  then  thev  cre]tt  (piietly  hack  into  the  slce\es 
"I  the  aJ-fhi.  ',ea\in,L:  nothini^  iii  the  candlcdi,^'lit  l-ut 
the  trader's  dark.  Mack  l>eardrd  face,  lean  to  the 
point  of  cniaci-ition,  (lrlic-atel\-  wrinklc<l  ahotit  th.e 
little  lilack  e\('s  liy  past  sunliiiht,  tin-  loni;,  \-ellow, 
ratdike   teeth    now  disclosed    liv   a    divilish   sort   of 


"  KliiVi'ttiii,"    s.iid    Alidnllah,    procccdiTiL;    now    to 
rclatL'  the  ex]icricnce  of  tdic  necdlr  and  thread,  "the 

69 


( ; o  I  \ f ;  DO  w  x   i'  i< o  m   i  e  r  u  sal  i-:  m 


Im 


I'l'l'iuiiis  ha\-c  :)   provn-h:  I   winL  to  haul  ami   was 
hiiiiu  il." 

lie  lau.^lu'il  a  Utile,  rcminisci'ntly,  as  he  arrrpte-d 

a  c-iL^arrtti',  tappiiiL;  niy  haii'l  In  iivhcatt.'  his  ixadiiU'SS 

ti  I  kiss  it,  Imt   wisely  sa\iii,L;  iiic  the  einharrassnient. 

"Listc'iil"   said   he.      "By   Allah'"   he   s\V()r\   ac- 

CDi-din.ij  to  his  custom,  "I  speak  the  truth." 

Ahdu'lah's   hands   emerged   fnun  the  seclusion  of 
his  slee\'es  to  coimneiid  his  words. 

"CoiiiiiiM^  t,,  Damascus  with  camels  lor  sale  to  the 
pil.^rims,"  said  he,  "as  I  am  now  come,  hut  then  fi-om 
the  north  and  now  iiMin  the  "asl,  I  met  two  camels 
at   a   \-iil,a,L;c  l,y   the    wa\-,   and    lo\ed    them.      1   con- 
sidered those  t'aniels,"  he  continued,  a  fniL^er  touch- 
in,i,'  m\-  ski'\e  in  a  wa\-  of  the  laintest,  liut  yet  some- 
how more  impressix'ely  than  h.xl  the  man  ,L,'ripped  m\- 
wrist  —"  I  considered  thost'  camels,  sa<Mled  with  new 
cloth,    sha\-c<l   and   harnessdl.    standini,^   in   the   city 
market   three  days  lief'orc  the  pilirrima^'c,  when  cam- 
els arc  l.ou^ht  foolishly  l.y  the  ;m.\ious,  and  I  loved 
them  more  th;m  ever.     The'  owner  was.  I,v  the  uracc 
ot  (iod,  a  fool,  a  Wood-seller,  who  cut  tVom  the  hills 
and  sold  hy  wei-lit  in  the  market,  takin-  from  the 
backs  of  his  Leasts.     There  is  a  proverL :  A  foo]  suc- 
(■(V<ls  m  his  own  house,  not  in  trade;  and  the  owner 
oi  the  c.imt'ls  was  ,i  man  of  that  sort. 

"'  Hut,"  said  this  wood-seller,   l  need  mv  two  camels; 
how  shall  I  carry  woo,]  to  Dam.iscus  without  them:'' 
'"I^    '^   true,"    I    answrred,    'that    vou   need   vour 
camels;  let  us  not  buy  and  sell,  Lut  trade,  lest  some 

70 


TAl.  !•     (Ji- 


ll i:     X  El.DLi:    A.\  [)    TIIRi:  A  !) 


(hima.Lic  hcdniK-  you.  I  haw  hri\','  sai<l  1,  'a  sijlnnli'l 
beast,  Willi  wlneii  I  iK'silalc  V>  part,  but  must,  bc- 
cu'isc  I  low  your  camels;  ami  1  will  trade  hi;n,  but 
not  easily,  because  I  luwd  hmi  well  In'tore  1  canie  io 
this  place  and  lell  in  Iii\-e  with  viur  beasts.' 

"'I  will  ncit  trade  two  camels  for  .ine,'  said  he, 
'ewn  il  the  oiu'  is  an  ameer's  lliclfil.  because  one 
camel  would  makt'  my  business  unprolitable.  I  am 
three  days'  journey  fn.m  Damascus,  and  must  have 
two  camels  or  turn  wt'aver.' 

Vou  are  a  wise  nian,'  said  I,  'and  will  ctrtainK- 
i^et  the  ad\-anta,L;e  of  me;  but  st'll  I  will  risk  the  loss, 
and  trade  with  you,  for  ailmiration  has  overcome  me. 
I  will  i^'ive  you  my  camel,'  said  1,  'for  t!ie  choiee  of 
your  two,  if  you  !_;ive  me  rwo  hundred  piastres  to 
b'">t.  If  I  did  not  low  your  camels  like  a  fool  1 
should  not  do  it.' 

'"1  will  never,'  said  he,  '.^nvc  you  two  hundred 
piastres  to  Ixiot;  but  you  mav  take  vour  choice,  if 
you  will,  so  that  1  may  understand  which  of  my 
camels  is  the  better.  I  am  a  w  iod-c:utter  without 
two  hundred  ])iastres  to  my  name,  and  1  haw  but 
now  taken  my  sister';:  ;ister-indaw  and  fwc  c'.iildren 
to  keep,  for  the  man  was  a  fool,  and  permitted  him- 
self to  be  murdered  by  an  enemy  in  .Mesopotamia, 
and  the  murderer,  by  God!  paid  no  more  than  an 
En^'lish  pound  to  cscajie.' 

Poor  man!'  said  I :  '  let  me  examine  ve'ur  camels, 
that  you  may  know  which  is  the  better  and  which 
the   Worse.'" 

0  71 


)l 


XIV 

CA.MlCi.    lOK    C.\.Mi;i. 

AUDULL.MI  ka.u,)  louanl  ,nc  u,tl,  ;,„  „„|„isi- 
r^livv,  i.anlcnii-  l.uK'  siiiil..  -Tlu  /J/,/aw/,/  is 
uiSL',"  said  hr,  uilh  a  nHjiKltish  llirt  <>i  thcliainl- 
••kL  hun  ansuvr  nv  llns:  I)„l  I  ull  the-  man  the' 
truth  or  a  lie?" 

-Of  omrse."  I  ansuvrnl,  nmsl  hcarlilv,  -ycu  lied 
hkr  a   ihicf!" 

"  X<)t  S(i,"  he  protested;  "it  was  the  truth." 

"  Wherefi  )!•(.'?  " 

Tn  exj.ri'ss  the  ainazi'ineut  tn  which  lie  had  keen 
moved  ky  my  simpheity,  Aliduhah,  in  tlie  l5edouin 
t.ishion,  ].ut  the  thuml,  and  iorefin-er  of  his  ri^ht 
han.i  together,  spreach-ny  tlie  other  fin^'ers,  ;md 
cjacukitin-  "Tst,  tst.  tst!"  slowly  raisclhis  hand, 
the  while  hftin-  his  eyes  to  hea\  en.  "  But,  indeed,'' 
said  he,  at  last,  "the  kJuvu'aja  is  ine.xperieneed  in 
trade.  [  wouM  tliat  I  mi.^ht  exchani^e  camels  witli 
him  as  with  the  wo(„l-cutter.  I  told  the  truth  to 
mislead  the  man.  No  lie  is  so  useful  in  trade  as  the 
truth  ap!)earint,'  as  a  lie. 

"■Trade  the  red  camel.'  I  saiM;  'kut  if  you  know 

akout  camels,  keep  the  klaek,  for  it  is  a  nu'e  Least.' 

"And  n(nv,  khaz.'aja,  as  I  had  foreseen,"  Akdullah 


C  A  M  I'.  L     !■  O  R    C  A  M  E  L 


mnliniK'd,  in  a  t'unnitii;  uliispLT,  "  thu  man,  lieinL;  a 
I'nol  in  1m\\.'  with  liis  L-uniiiiiL;,  llimi^liL  I  had  lird; 
and  lu'  wmild  n^i  iraiir  ihc  nd  i-arncl,  whicli  was  thr 
worsr,  l)uL  nuisl  part  with  llu'  Idack,  uhirh  was  tlu 
canu'l  (if  my  heart's  dcsirr. 

"'The'  rrd  canii-l  1  Ihxt,'  said  hi-,  'Imt  the  Muk 
tnmlik'S  mc,  and  I  will  l)ari4ain  witliy<iu.  Conirl'said 
he; '  k'ad  me  to  ynur  camels  tliat  we  may  make  terms.' 

"I  thiiu;^'ht  the  man  a  simpk'ton,  and  freely  led 
l;iin  ti)  mv  camels,  sus])et'tinj,f  no  ■^niile,  hut  wnuld 
tint  traile  mitil  a  ni;-;ht  had  jiassed;  and  when  he  had 
de])arted,  khir.i^'iiia" — leanin.L(  close  to  impart  the 
t'levenn"ss  -"bearing,'  iii  mind  tin'  future  of  Hassan, 
lu''  Son,  1  planned  to  lame  the  Mack  camel  that  1 
loved." 

The  flare  of  th(^  match  with  which  Alulullah  touch- 
ed his  citj;arctte  illuminated  a  depth  of  .self-satistied 
cunninj^. 

"That  m"j.,^ht,"  saiil  he,  "I  thrust  a  needle  in  the 
sole  of  the  black  camel's  font,  choosini:!;  the  Mack 
from  the  red  in  the  dark  by  my  knowledge  of  the  hind 
leL;s  of  both,  for  the  red  was  knock-kneed — thrust  the 
neeilK'  deep,  khifukiiii,  and  closed  and  dusted  the  littli' 
hole,  so  that  it  couM  not  lu'  detected.  The  di'vicc 
was  successful;  in  the  mornini^  the  man's  camel  was 
lame;  but  so,  l)y  Allah!  was  mine.  It  is  the  truth, 
by  (lod  and  Mohammed  the  Messen,i.;er  of  (lod!  My 
camel  was  lame!  When  I  called  to  him  to  rise  I  saw 
that  he  favored  the  left  fore  foot.  A,Lfain  and  ai'ain, 
kli'i7i\ij,i — down  and  u])  airain;    but  always  with  the 

13 


GUIXG    DOWX    FROM    J  1-;  R  T  S  A  L  I-  M 

same  result  :  myr.-.ni.I  ha.l  ,.;unc  l;,t,K-  ,„  Hu'  ni-lit 
'■■'"'  ''''■'  "'  ""  ^■•'''■''  '■'  '",.,  l.,„n;,l  as  1  was  tu  J);!- 
imscus  with  raincIslMrsal.i,,  thr  pil.^rnns. 

"•CM,ur''  I  sai.l  t..  tlR.  nwncTMi  tlK-hlackcamd. 
ict  us  har-aii!  Inr  vmui-  hcast.' 
'"It    wouLl    uvWx:]    l,r   i„„,r  l)arc:ainin-,'   he  an- 
swvnal,  'tor  „,y  eaiuel  has  o,„U'  laiur;  hut  nwvnhv- 
I''^sl  willlra.lr  alamrcamdlnra  lam- c:nnv\  ' 

"Thru  I  kurw  that  the  man  had  hmn.l  mv  eamd 
because  he  knew  that  inv  camel  was  lame;  an-l  I  k-ft 
him,  an.l  I  discnvered  tlu-  threa-l  wh.eh  he  ha-l  tie-l 
ti-htly  al.Mut  tlu'  left  Inre  le-  n{  mv  eamel  near  the 
sliMuMer,  an.l  I  eut  tlu^  thread  an.l  reste.l  the  heast, 
and  Ini  him  out  In  tra. K'. 

'■'Bv  Allali!'   cried    the   man,    when   he   saw   my 
camel  suun.l  up.-n  his  iVet,  '  vou  have  tlie  evil  eyj 
and  have  lamed  my  camel.      I  will  han-  a  necklace  of 
Mue  heads  about  his  neck  to  cuh'  him.' 

"  But  on  the  third  day,  there  bein^  no  xirtue  in  the 
beads,  he  he--u!  me  in  the  -lame  .^l'  God  to  tra<le  with 
bim,  lest  he  I.e.  k.ft  with  one  camel  to  ca-rv  on  an  un- 
pr-'litable  business;  and  I  traded,  to  save  the  man 
ir.'m  turnin-  weav.r,  and  with  Hassan,  mv  son,  I 
let  I  that  j.lace  on  my  way  to  Damascus,  with  two 
bund.red  i.iastres  in  my  pocket  and  a  new  camel  of 
price  lor  sale  to  the  pil-rims,  which  was  n'Stored 
when  I  drew  the  needle  from  his  f,  ,ot  and  washed  the 
wound  with  a  ])reparation  which  is  nn-  secret." 

This  much,  for  the  present,  of  Abdullah  iVo,n  Ain 
I'bk'aum. 

74 


XV 


Tin;    or  ST    n|-    mi;m 


NEAR  by  the  Wfll  nf  Mazaar,  io  which  we  cami\ 
Uvn  (hivs  luA-niiil  Ivl  Afish,  is  a  iiiflaiich' ily 
luiiil),  now  in  ilcca}',  tuinl  )Iiii;j,  in<K'cil,  v.)  tin.'  \v\c\  <>( 
iht'  sami  whicli  intinilcly  (-■ncunipassi-s  it.  It  is  r\cn 
(lcci)lv  isnlatol  in  the  tni'ist  nf  this  far  ilrsMlatc  [ilace 
— itsrU'  in  every  part  a  waste  and  is(  il.itii  ni.  With 
tile  sun  fallen  Iichiml  ij;ra\-  cjnuils,  the  east  tliiek 
with  shadows,  a  siihr\'  wind  hlowinL;  up,  the  sand 
stirrin,u  uneasily,  lu-re  is,  indeed,  a  nei^^hhorhoi  «1  of 
L^looin  and  ghostly  fears.  The  dome  is  orokt-'U,  a 
wall  is  fallen  down,  the  Mocks  are  scattered  and  half- 
huried,  sand  lias  drifted  in  through  the  gn'at  ga]), 
and  the  wind,  entering  at  will,  flutters  the  poor  holv 
shreds  which  the  fingers  of  the  pious  have  knotted 
to  upright  sticks  in  the  ])erfornianee  of  some  cere- 
mony. Ruined,  forsaken,  and  all,  still  one  mav 
fancy  that  once  there  dwelt  at  this  t<iml)  a  dex'out 
kee])er,  thriving  u;ion  th(.>  gifts  of  jiilgritns  on  the 
way  to  Mecca,  dispensing  charms  and  blessings  in 
return:  this  long  ago,  when  the  road  was  ])opulouslv 
travelled  by  the  rich  and  trulv  pious — not  by  beg- 
garly wanderers  afoot,  as  te-day. 

75 


M 


<''>i.\(;  !)o\v.\  I  ROM  j!:Rus.\Lr:.M 

N"  n.,l,,ui„  ,,t  thrs.-  u-i.!.  ,,:,rts  c-,,n  uuuu  thr 
anc'unt  uhusr  Imlin.ss  is  lurr  (■.„,„„.■„,.  .niu.l  and 
ni.-nh-  valuaMf  to  tlir  -mrratiuii  .  .f  this  ,lay. 

"'•"",^'  a.uo."  iluy  say,  '•thrn^  livr^l  a  'virtu-uis 
•"•"••    '■"■'>    •"    I"<ty   ;ni.i    ;;,„„!    .K,.,ls.    uIlMSr   l„.,u.s   li,. 

un.Kr  tins  holy  I,,,,,!.,  j. I  o  m,,, any  for  the  l.o.us 

<>t  lis." 

litre  thuvlore  the  Ijolwuins  have  their -raveyanl. 

There  wen-  many  mean  -raws,  all  aliand.^ned  an.l 
.Ur-'c-eless,    It  seenu.l   at    lir.t,    hut    vet  ,-iirectionatelv 
niarke,!  with  stones  an.l  little  stieks  -so  man v -rave's 
that  walkin-  westwanl  I  ,li,l  not  pass  iHA-oncl'them 
nor    eouM    determine    where    was    the   remotest       I 
stumMol  oxer  a  hone  -n,.  more  than  the  ihr^di  hone 
liai'i'ily,   of    somr   siek   .■anu  I,   deserted,    whieh    had' 
wandered  to  this  place  and  lallen  to  die.      Th.'  sand 
I'HVVer  moviiu;  in   re,sp(,nse   to  tJu-   wind,   ha-l   lire 
gathered  and  liad  there  departed:  here  twice  cover- 
in-   there  exp,.sin-   the  white  hones  of  men.      Upon 
the  ,t,^rave  within  tlie  tomh  were  laid  offerin-s  of  raid's 
and  heads  and  coj.per  coins  (the  inhahitrmts  of  th^is 
dry  desert  hein-  ,,f  the  earth's  most  wretched) ;  and 
I  recall  that  two  crossed  sticks  were  set  ahove' it— 
a  Christiaa  syni])ol  marvellously  out  of  place    hut 
left  undisturhed  !     S.mietimes  the  hereaved  dug  near 
tlu-  t.'mh  to  have  the  .lead  within  the  shadow  of  its 
sanctity,    whatever   hones   must   ])e   .listurhed;   an.l 
sately  near  hy  was  a  new  grave-^that  of  a  youn- 
girl,  whut=e  coarse  hlue  g,,wn  lay  there  njtting  in  the 

7^' 


),•' 


TH  I-:     nUST    OF    M  K  \ 

weather,  accf)nlnii;  In  the  custom,  with  siuli  incaii 
treasures  as  a  si-iMp  cit  ])iiik  riM)()i\ — where  ^ot,  Goil 
kriDWs!  — and  a  luikl.Kr  oi  ;_;l.iss  heads.  The  eoins 
with  whii'h  she  had  dri'uniti'd  hiT  head-dress  and 
employrd  in  (.Minutry  were  still  .iitathcd.  1  wnn- 
(KTe<l  thai.  III)  nivc'tiDiis  lie.tJKar — "t'  wlimn  many 
wander  past  alone — had  slok'n  them.  Tl'rre  was, 
too,  I  recall,  a  little  triangular  eharm  a;.;ainst  llu'  tvil 
eye  ainl  all  diseases,  whieh  some  holy  ni:iu  had 
writti'n  lor  pay  and  this  drad  i^irl  had  elurished. 

"  Her;','"  said  1,  to  Slu'ik  Mir/.a,  "is  a  L,Teat  i^rave- 
yard," 

"  Manv  men,"  he  answcnd.  "ha\f  died." 

"It  is  a  iiilit'ul  neecssitw"   I   \cntnnik 

"  It    is  thr   will  I't   (iod,"  said   llr. 

I  watelu'd  the  tiuLHTS  of  the  wind  take  sand  t'rom 
beneath  a  lu\q)  >  if  stones  lyin;;  npun  soiTie  ijraxr  in 
protection  from  the  ln'asls.  "  W'lufc,"  I  asked,  look- 
ini,'  up,  "are  the  sotils  of  these  men?" 

"Each,"  he  answt-Teil,  "in  its  apjioinfrd  place." 

"  Accord  in.i,^  to  the  will  of  ("md?" 

"Trulv,  k'liii'ti-iijd !"  he  cxelaiiiu'd,  sniily. 

I'(ir  this  man  were  no  nvv'slrrirs  whatsoc\'er. 


This  Mirza  was  sheik  of  the  wandering'  folk  of  all 
that  district — a  man  honored  anil  ai'eomued  wise. 
It  seemed  that  his  trihe  liad  \v>  \'enerati'd  aneesldr, 
as  he  told  me  with  some  little  si^n  nf  shame,  hut  was 
ealkd  the-  Tribe  of  Them  That  Had  lle.ml,  beinu  in 
the  first  place  j_;atlKred  by  aei'ident  from  East  an^l 

77 


G  ( )  I  X  (]    I)  O  W  X    P  ROM    J  K  l<  I-  s  A  I.  i:  M 

West.  I  f.-iiicir.].  tlicii,  that  llic  outcasts  of  K^ypt 
;ui<l  till'  Great  Arahian  Dcsrrt  had  fatht-iv.l  it -the 
poor  and  e\  i!,  wlio,  haviii-  hcanl  of  this  refu-^'c,  ha,] 
veiiturol  to  It  and  rfinaind.  They  ])ossessed  (lorks 
and  ranicls  and  some  wid.ly  scattered  .L,n-o\es  of  date- 
palm,  ■  '  thesi'  not  in  ahundaiiee:  and  tht'V  were  a 
lean  tiihe  in  t^-ry  way  -lieeanse,  s;.;d  tlu'y,  of  all 
the  deserts  in  all  the  wide  w<  .rid  no  ,,ther  was  as 
sandy  and  dry  and  harreii  and  inivieldin,i^^  as  the 
desert  of  I-:t  Till,  info  the  thh-sl  and  hnn-vr  and  nn- 
\yatered  heat  o"  which  (iod  had  seen  fit  to  cast  lliem. 
The  sheik  was  cai)tain  an<l  iud.i^c  over  thein,  his 
wisdom  the  htw;  and  of  his  cunnini^  jud,t;nients 
Mustafa,  the  caniel-driver  from  'C!  Arish.  told  me 
much. 

Once,  saiil  he.  two  men  came  to  Slu  ik  Mirza  dis- 
puting:. 

"l  am  hut  now."  said  the  one,  '-returned  fmm 
Cau-o.  I?ef,,re  lea\in-  I  cTitrusted  my  moiu  vd)ox 
to  the  keepin.L:  of  this  false  friend,  who  now  denies 
reeeivin.i:  it:  and  as  it  contained  my  whole  fortune, 
I  am  n'duceil  n  >  po\  ertv," 

"It  may  well  l)e."sai,i  Slu  ik  >rirza,  "th.at  you  are 
mistake!!.  At  what  ]ilaee  did  you  yjvr  tliis  nia'i  the 
nione\--lH in  '"' 

B-in.^  informed  of  this,  the  sheik  inf|uired  >,{  the 
accused  ^vhether  or  not  he  knew  th(>  s]n,\. 

"Truly  not!"  \vas  the  ansv.er.  'I  have  never 
hea.rd  of  the  ])Iaci'  lief.ire." 

■•»',o  now  to  that  jilace,"  sai  1   Sh    ik   Mir/a    lo  the 

78 


Till-     n  r  S  T    OF    M  F.  X 

accuser,  "anil  pomicr  well.  It  may  lu-  that  n'ou  will 
recall  the  nanu'  nf  \\\r  man  to  wlinm  \'ni  rcalh'  vn- 
trustc'd  tlu'  ni'ir.cx'.  fur  it  sci'iiis  to  nir  that  this  ]in.ir 
iVllow  IS  iiiiiiitxiil." 

Tilt'  man  departed,  leaviiiLj  the  accused  in  the 
presence  i>\  tht'  sheik  to  await  his  retu'ai. 

"It  seems,"  said  SIteik  Mir/a,  inij^al  ientlv,  when 
,an  hour  had  ]>assi'd,  "tliat  lliis  man  is  ,^niie  a  h  luv; 
time  and  is  idly  wastini,^  mv  time." 

"Xo,"  was  tln'  incaiitinus  ri'|ily:  "he  has  imt  had 
time  Xn  reach  thi'  ]ilace  and  return." 

"What'"  cried  the  sheik,  in  an!j;er.  "('iuilt\-man 
tiiat  you  are,  you  remember  the  ])lace  where  the 
money  was  eiitrtisted  io  your  cand" 

Mustafa  the  camel-dri\'er  told  me  that  tlie  man 
made  restitution,  and  was  pr(.)])erl\'  jtutiislu'd  fnr  liis 
dece])tir)n.  It  was  mtich  like  a  tale  of  tln'  Wise  Cadi 
of  Al  Rursah :  hut  whatex'er  the  trutli  or  emertainitii,' 
menilacity  of  Mustala  the  camel-dri\-er,  Slieik  Mirza 
nevertheless  delivers  judgments  in  this  wise,  and  of 
such  are  the  disjuites  hrou(:;ht  bel'ore  Irim.  Some- 
times his  wisdom  is  souc^ht  from  lieyond  his  tribe  ;  and 
wh'.'ther  from  within  ov  without,  he  ,u:,iins  nrU  onl\- 
honor.  l)ut  a  perccnta,c;e  of  thi'  \'alues  in\-olvcl,  wliieli 
is  s^Miiethintr  worth  bein^  wise  I'or. 


Here,  now,  at  any  rate,  was  th(>  wis(>  Mirza,  ab- 
stracts 1  by  the  tomb  of  tlu>  t'oraotten  huly  man.  witli 
the  .c;raves  of  generations  of  his  ])eo]>le  underlMot, 
and   roundabout — the  wind    lilnwing   from   the   hot, 

79 


h 


noixn  DOWN  PROM  JERUSALEM 

umvatcrcl.  and  uninhabital,!.  d.s.rt  to  the  south 
t!u.  ^n-uesome  s.k.Kv  n.I,.vc.,l   l,v  nothing  hut   tlu: 

UK,u,.t„K,v,„,o,-tlu>san,I.th.suni^.,l„;ifn.rn 

-  '     cloud  an.  n-radiatin,  ,t  with  .vcrv^or,.^^^^^ 

n  1   .In.unu^morc.tc.nd.rcolorsovorth.rolhn.tand- 
h.llstothemnotc.stc.astc-nsky.      r  observed  SkHk. 

was  more  decently  elad   than  any   Bedouin    ^o 
'--nc.y-a   severe    Maek   ^own,    en.hroidered    wit 
-•k  s.lk    .raeetully  fittin,,  a  small  hody.  and    d.s- 

X  ^"'V^^^■'!^'i-^--'-^  white  ...... ,e- 

cath.     Ih,   ,-a/;nvh   was   white   and    fresh;   it   was 

:^n™ove.h,s  head,  it  appeared,  with  no  intention 
t.>  coneeal  .us  .,ves,  hut  fell  even  short  of  them-an 

""'■""  "'';''"'"■  "^'  ^-^  >™^.  l.lackd.eard" 
l^^-.n.    qu.ck    dark    eyes,    contem,dativ,.    and    n<  ^ 

;|s^-:ed.  and  a  delicate  and  religious  cast  of  face:  of 
a  soft  voice  and  way-melancholy  and  incurious  and 
-<    y  pa  K.nt,  hke  the  very  desert  that  hre<l  hitn. 

resently  he  looked  up  fn..  a  protrudm,  hone, 
winch  thesan,!  was  lahorin-  to  cover 

•■nu.  sand  is  restless,-  he  s,.hed-seeniin.  in  this 

-  "-iH.nawuulowofhissoul.      I  w.s  enlightened 

to    |(j(ik'    HI. 

We  returned,  then,  to  the  tents;  and  here  reflcTtin. 
"I-"th.smeaneholytoml>,I,,nK-mlx.ed,i..p    ,u 
'  !"■  \\  lute  Ass. 


XVI 

THE    TOMT!    OF    Tin;    WiriTC    ASS 

I   MAY  rclatf  concerninLr   ihr  j.ious  incrclL'int  and 
I  the  tomb  of  the  white  ass  that  in  Damascus  llie 
Interpreter  and  I,  proceedin.i,'  aimlessly  in  search  of 
adventure,   entered   a   narrow  street,    traversed   hy 
few,  and   there  came  upon  a  curious  si.s^^ht:  an  oM 
man  at  his  halh,  taken  :ii   the  open  street;  he  was 
savinj^r  his  m(K]esty  as  hest  he  eouM,  to  he  sure,  hut 
wa.s  not  abashed.,   nor  did   his  stran.i;e  employment 
create  so  much  as  a  flutter  of  discomposure  on  the 
thorouuhlare.      Ilavin<,^  turne.l  into  the  silkd.azar.  the 
Interpreter  stoj)ped   to  gossip   with   a   merchant   of 
embroideries,  a  sleek  felhnv,  of  pious  inclination;  but 
the  piety  of  this  man  was  as  nothiiii^r  compared  with 
the  devotion  of  his  nei^^hbor  and   comj.rtitor.     He 
was  a  cadaverous  object— a  rusty,  i rayed  old  felh.w 
with  a  lon^i^  white  beard  and  deep-sunken  eyes— now 
squattin.i^r  in  his  stall,  quite  .letached  from  the  allairs 
of  the  market,  being  occupied  with  a  great  book, 
over   which    he    bent,    swaying   and    muttering.     A 
small  a])prentice,  wlio  had  ajiproaehed  with  cheery 
swagger,  paused  at  the  stall  an.]  extended  his  liand', 
which  the  pious  old  gentleman  abstractedlv  tapj.ed 

8i 


''')!  \r,   i)()\v.\   FROM  ji' rusali:m 

three  times,  not  losin-  a  siii,L,'le  syllahlc  of  his  prayer, 
h'AVeMT,  111  the  operation.  I]lesse<I  m  this  wise. "the 
la.l  went  on  his  way,  and  was  sueceedeil  l.v  another, 
aii.l  a  thml,  a.nd  a  disease-l  lK',i,^<;ar,  all  of  whom,  in  the 
si)aee  of  thre.  minutes,  were  tapped  into  an  accession 
"f  piety,  and  went  about  their  business,  much  bene- 
tited. 

"lie  IS  a  Mohammedan  famed  for  his  devotion," 
the  Interpreter  explained,  as  we  walked  awav,  "and 
his  blessing'  is  much  sou-ht.  It  is  even  said  that  the 
touch  of  his  fm.^er  will  work  cures,  and  that  as  a 
writer  of  cliarms  a-ainst  evil  he  is  not  eciualled  in 
the  city.  I- or  many  years  he  has  sat  m  that  same 
stall,  ])ractisin.u  !'ra\-er  and  readin.i;.  He  is  a  holy 
man,  withdrawn  from  the  world,  and  will  doubtless 
ha\e  a  liojv  tomb  when  he  dies,  where  the  pious  may 
pray 

"It  seems,"  said  I,  "that  he  will  hardly  thrive  in 
the  silk  l.'usiness." 

The   Iriter])reter  laut^^hed. 

"The  de\-out,*"  I  \enture<l,  "are  seldom  thriftv." 

'"The  ^"cipients  nf  his  blrssin>;,"  the  Interpreter 
r.xplained,  .softly,  "are  permitted  to  leave  coins  con- 
\-enient  to  his  hand." 


Im-miu  the  bazar  we  jjassed  into  a  windint^^  street, 
Very  narniw,  with  -rim  old  houses  on  either  side,' 
.sometimes  falhn-  to:^r,.tlKT  at  the  eaves  or  frankly 
bulged  overhead:  so  that  on  this  dull  dav  the  way 
was  dark    and   ghostly.      In   an   aperture' tn;m    the 

62 


THR    TOMB    OF    THE    W  Pli  T  F.    ASS 


street  \v;is  an  tinkempt  ti>inl);  the  branches  of  an  ill- 
thri\-ini,'  biisli  ])r(itruile(l  thnni^h  the  bars  n\  a  i^ralini,' 
and  were  cluttiTeil  with  many  hi^li-coloreil  shri'ils 
of  cl(jth,  knotted  tightly.  "FhTe,"  said  the  Inter- 
preter, "is  tile  i^rave  of  some  lioly  man  eif  tlie  eil\-, 
whose  name  is  doubtless  forgotten,  liut  whose  jiiety 
lives  in  tra(Htion,  into  which  has  entered,  too,  the 
protertinj:;  virtue  of  his  tomb.  The  poor  shreds  u]><  >n 
this  holy  bush  are  the  evidences  of  the  vows  and 
prayers  of  passers-by — of  many  travellers,  perha])s 
(for  we  have  come  near  a  gate  of  the  cityi,  who  haw 
turned  aside  to  this  shrine  to  register  their  thankful- 
ness. Indeed,  the  people  are  de\-out  and  most 
simple,  accepting  the  rej^atations  of  these  kuidlv 
I^ious  folk  without  (juestioning,  as  the  hermits  and 
holy  men  (")f  me(li:e\-al  times  were  accepted,  upon 
their  own  statement  of  their  virtues;  and  thev  are  in 
consequence  often  misled. 

"There  was  onci',"  he  continued,  "a  voung  m;m, 
riding  on  a  white  ass,  whose  beast  fell  exhausted 
on  a  main -travelled  road,  and  there  instantlv  ex- 
pired. 

"  '  I  will  bury  this  unfaithful  ass,'  thought  he.  '  lest 
I  get  no  sympathy  from  passing  tra\-elk-rs,  who  will 
suppose  that  I  have  ridden  him  cruellv.' 

"  Xo  sooner  had  he  accomplished  this  than  a 
benevolent  man  appeared  and  demanded  to  know  the 
occasion  of  his  grief. 

"'My  uncle,'  replied  the  youth,  'an  aged  and  most 
reverend   man,   being  upon  a   pidus  ])il<.:rimage  be- 


i 


5 


C.OIXG    DOWN    FROM    J  p:  R  U  S  A  L  E  M 

yon.l  his  strcnutli.  I, as  lure  .lir.)  l,y  tlu^  waysi.lc,  an,l 
1  haw  liurk'(l  hiin.' 

'"It  is  nicvt;  said  thr  lKncvi>lrnt  traveller,  "that 
a  man  n\  these  hnly  areoinph-shnieiits  shouM  have  a 
l"i^il-  in  keepin-  with  his  jiiety,  and  I  will  ecntnl.ute 
my  purse  to  this  wortliy  end.' 

■■  rile  traveller  rode  off  ui)on  his  journey,  inl'orininc; 
all  whom  he  met  of  the  lamentable  decease  of  this 
most  holy  pil-rim,  and  so  fast  and  affectinKdy  did 
the  tale  -row,  so  far  did  it  spread,  so  rich  were  the 
.tZitts  it  elicited,  that  the  youth  was  presently  estah- 
lislT'd  in  a  splendid  tomb  oxer  the  orave  of  the 
humble  white  ass,  where  lie  be-an  to  ,^rrnw  stout  and 
wealthy,  thereby  exciting  the  envy  of  a  rival,  who 
resided  in  the  tomb  of  his  .grandfather,  near  by. 

"'Come!' said  this  man;  '  show  me  the  sacred' bones 
"i"  your  pious  uncle,  chat  I  may  understaii.l  their 
virtue.' 

"  '  As  we  are  of  the  same  pious  profession,  brother,' 
replie.l  the  youth,  'and  as  it  has  occurred  to  me  that 
we  may  j^roht  to^vther,  I  may  tell  you  frankly  that 
my  holy  bones  are  the  bones  of  a  white  ass.' 

■"Is  it  indeed  so?'  cried  the  other. 

'"My  conscit'nce  accuses  me,'  continued  the  youth, 
'and  I  would  -la.i'y  have  y,  ,u  join  with  me,  con- 
tributing the  relics  of  your  saintly  grandfather  to  my 
establishment.' 

'"Alas''  replie.l  tlie  other;  'thoui^rh  you  have  only 
tlu'  bones  of  a  humble  white  ass,  I  have  no  bones  at 
all'"' 


84 


XVI T 


TiiKDniii  Tin;  sAi/r  swamp 


MEANTIME    tli.'V   1ki,1    nia.lr    cai 
'i'lic  ru^s  wcrr  spr(_'ail  ividy  i  m 


nil)  ''V  tlK'  wtll. 
tlk'  saiiil  liv  tlu' 
klnn^\ija's  tent — thr  Ih'Iiac]  lilur  Ku;;  ami  ihf  Lilllc 
(jrin  and  that  poor  mmdcscript  whirli  thr  yiiun;^L'r 
kliau'iija  (liavini;  takrn  in  hastfi  Iiad  Lnnliiiiptuously 
railed  the  Dish  Ra.u,  Imt  lnwd  like  a  ninir^nd  do^. 
These  were  of  JJaniaseus,  hard  suuLjhl,  aei|uin,'d  with 
delii^lit,  familiar,  inueh  l(i\ed,  making:  hmne  of  every 
desdlate  eani])ini,f-plaee  on  the  L  mj^^  n  lad  I'roni  I)a- 
maseus  to  this  i;lo()niy  well  of  .Mazaar  in  Iv^s'iit:  now 
lyini,'  on  the  ereaniy  saml,  with  the  low  sunliL,'ht  set- 
tinj,'  them  at^dow — lieantiful  in  these  eireumstanees 
as  the  sunset  clouds  beyond  the  ruined  loinli,  seem- 
m^,  indeed,  a  soft  reflection  of  thi'ir  colors.  Here 
sat  we  with  the  vSheik  Mirza  and  the  four  elders  of 
his  tnhe  while  the  (xrenionial  three  cups  of  coffee 
were  drunk  and  the  formal  coni])lirnents  exchani,vd. 
They  were  encamped  near  hy,  it  seemed — hcdf  an 
hour,  an  hour,  who  could  tell?  the  distance  was  to  1)( 
measured  hy  the  energy  of  a  man  and  the  urgency 
of  his  wi^.h  to  he  there.  The  triliesnieii  were  otT  with 
the  (locks  to  i^ood  i)astura,i;e;  1  mt  the  sheik  remained, 

«5 


.1 


' ; o  I  x ( ;   no  \v  x   |.- 1^ o  m  j  i:  r  u  s  a  i.  i:  m 

ill  ^-nn^Kiuv   with   Ihvsr  wise  rMcrly  p.-rsMus,  tn  pri'- 
SLTW  onlcr,  b>  p.i^s  ju'l-iiiriit,  ;nii|   llu'   likr,  in  t!ir 
vvcul   ni   such   unhap.i.y   lur.l.     A  p,,,,,-   hal.'iLalicn, 
s.ii.l   hr  -a   iiH'an,   iripcwrislu^d   li..usni-  an<i   enter- 
tainment,   a    plai.'    unlit    fn,-    th^.    sh-H'S   .,f   the   ,lis 
Im-uisheM  tu  press,  nliensiw  t-  the  eye  and  lieart  o; 
■niy  man,   withhoMin-   i,,  the  stomach.      Never  \>v 
Iore,j'iHlee.l,  sai.l  lhe\-,  ha.i   a  CMnsideraMe  sheik  ( .f 
I-:t  Tih  been   ri.hiee.l   tn  a   depth  ni    s<|ual.,r   So   re- 
pugnant to  the  hi-h-horn  and  wealthv  as  in  this  very 
instanee. 

Sheik  Mirza,  as  I  knew.  wmuM  have  1  leen  no 
pohte  He.louin  liad  Ik  not  delanie.l  liis  own  state 
ani  I  pi  issessii  ins. 

"Come!"  1  vielde.i  to  this  left  lianded  entreatv: 
"we  W'.n  lake  eniiee  in  y,,ur  tent  wlun  the  sun  is 
gi  iiie  d'  iwn." 

The\-  held  u].  tiieir  hands  in  admiration  of  tliis 
inhnite!;.-  -enerous  cnndescensiMn 

"It  is  impossilde!"  eried  ihiy.  reveah'n-  in  this 
a  Hatlerin.^  eomprehensi.ui  of  thi^  splendor  to  uhieh 
the  /.•//,;;.■,//,/  was  accustomed ;  "il  is  impossible— ihc 
place  is  ni  .t   worthv,"' 

"Still,"  said   I.  (irmlv,  "we  will  d-.  ii  " 

"The  thii;y."  .Mirza  protested,  '•would  demean  the 

_  I  pereei\ed  in  this  a  complimeiit  t-  the  klun^'uin's 
nches  and  p^wer,  and  to  the  sweet  and  anxious 
hi.Miry  m  wliieh  he  custom, irily  dwelt. 

"  XcverllieJcss,"   said    I,   do--cdly,   .letermined   to 


T  II  kOUC.  II    Til  i:    S.\  LT    S  \V.\  M  I' 

\)v  ;is  pnlitr  ;is  tlu'  situation  iIi  iiiaii'k.I,    '  wu  will  lulc 
iiu'l  in  tlu'  I'cKil  I  if  tlic  cwnui^  " 

SlK"k  Mir/.a  wiiil  nfi'  in  a  liostlv-  ixTtiirliatiMn 
lU'nlini^  ni  I  wnnlslM  iiilrr|iril ;  ainl  si  >  (  "lurnicW  were 
tlu  chirrs  ihal  I  was  iivi\nl  to  ])it\'  tlhir  aiixictv. 
It  was,  ho\w\rr,  a  iKparturc  wIkiIIv  ili^nificd  ,  tlurc 
hail  Irtii  nil  hastt-  nr  liUiiiilcrin^,  ik  i  failure  of  man- 
tiiTS,  no  kssriiiiiL:  of  srlf-ivs]n'ct,  no  hint  of  ,,1,- 
sc'(]uiousncss;  the  .ine-iciit  forms  had  Inxn  olisciAnl 
in  ;i  fashion  thr  most  jiunctilious  -'-ofi  i)hrascs, 
si^Miificaiit  ami  grateful,  fallin;,^'  u])on  unaccnstopn'l 
cars.  I  watched  tlu-  little  ltou])  mow  sIowl\-  o\rr 
the  sanl  -a  i^ra\c  iK'p.irtUR,  the  yoinii;  slink  Icail- 
ini,'.  acconlin.^  to  his  iK'^;rt'r,  the  elders  resjieetfullv 
folio win,ij;.  They  ])assed  owr  the  ridije  of  a  Lireat 
sand-drift  with  no  t'lekle  backward  turnin.L:  I  was 
impressed  with  the  di,i,'nn\-  and  understandiiiij:  and 
jiowi'r  of  them  in  their  own  ])laec.  Thev  were  in 
|)erfect  harmony,  it  seenu'd,  with  the  desert  into 
which  they  had  vanislu'd. 


It  liad  laeen  thi'  vmhappv  custom  of  (nir  followers 
as  we  traw'llcd  these  far  and  simjtlc  narts  to  mis- 
represent us  in  their  own  i^loritica^tion  ,  noi  covild  I 
put  a  stop  to  it,  N.hatever  I  mi.nht  sav.  We  ex- 
chanj^'cd  ;4reetinL^s  with  whonisocwr  we  met,  and 
haviniL^  |xissed  the  customary  cimpliments,  would 
then  inquire  concerning  the  trawllcrs'  deL;ree  and 
destination.  OliserxdnL;  our  stout  carawm  and  opu- 
lently laden  pack-mules,  or  comiii.t;  upon  our  camp 


•■'>  I  \  <;    i)')  w  .\     |-  Ro  M     I  i;  K  I' 


S.\  I.  !•;  M 


at  ni-lu,  ih.s,.  ,„,tnr  |..lk  um,,],]  s,,tislv  ilu,,-  luri- 
nsitv.    uhuh    was   n„l.v.l    m1    ,,    ,hi,-s,v   au-l    i„tnn;,tr 
s-.rt.     \Vr!,.-,ni  nxxlcst  Iv  fn..,,,.!, ;  ,,i  H.hron  wc  urrc 
sin.plr  tn.vrlKrs.  hnnn-l  .Imu,,  ,,,  |.:,,,.pt  ,  |,„t  n„  the 
i'i.Mnsl,rVM,„|   |!,rrsl.rl,,,  u,.  li,..|  ,u,|uiiv.l  a  nusltTi 
ous   nnssi,.,,,   h,,vi,r^   tw  ,1,,,    J    u,,s  .nnazr,]  t./irarn 
possihly  witli  Ihc'  l,.lt,nnri,t  ..fall  ,1h.  M,.,l,„nii  lar- 
ni(Tstluival,.,uts;  this  kn..\\  I.,]-,- .\!,....sh,  the  Int.T- 
prct.T.   -avc  nir   u,ih    ,,n..  ii   .^1,  ,■,   having  ca.r^ht    it 
''"'""  "'"'  ''i'^"'  tlH'  !.i'.;  mulrl.vr,  ul,..  uas  sIH^,k^l- 
r'mti.l.iitiallv  in  1  h.' rar  , ,f  a  lulLTiiii       l\.r.uy^  vrnss- 
•''   "'*■   '""■'''''•   """   i;-vpt.    uv  ha.l   ,In„l.r,l"    niniT 
hiLih.r,  an.l  l.v  so  ,„n<  h   was  thr  i..,|„  .rtan.v  ,.('  nur 
siTvants  c'.\a,i,'j,'.Tat..l:  .nir  ini^.si.„i   was  n..w  a  ,i;rave 
rrah'tv;   w.'   w,t.     u,   thr  c  .r.li,!,  luv  ..|    the   I'-vptian 
.^"V.rnnv.it:   :t    l.rh,»,v,,l   all   iHT..,ns   to  hoii^'.r  an.i 
I'lacatc  us     kli.iwn.i,  nun,  an.l   nnilcs. 

An.!  now,  \urr  !,y  thr  -v.  II  ,  .i'  Mazaar.  as  the  sheik 

went  ..It.   I   lurne.1  .iiri.  )usl\-  tip-m  A! sh. 

'■'-■"■1<  li'-re!"   sai.l    I,   al.rupllv,   -  wil!   v..u  please 
1>'1I   "H'    what   is   my   station   in   Hie  at   the   present 
in.>nient .'" 
He  lau-b,  '. 

'Out  witli  it!"  I  insist. •< I. 

'■V,,n    are    a    hi-h     ICn-lish    ju.!-e,"    he    replierl, 
"travelhn.i^^  |.,r  pleasure  an<i  information." 
"  H..W  hi,:^'h.-"   I  aske.i. 

"  I  think,"  lie  answered,  gently,  "that  there  is  no 
more  important  in  all  Ent^^land." 
■  Hy  whom  liave  I  been  exalte.)  r" 

88 


•.\ 


TH  ROU(;H     T  U  E    SALT    SWAM  I' 

"It  was  OM-p'.r.il  Ali,  tin's  tirtir."  saiil  he.  "Ilr 
was  a  i'riiu'f  m  llic  Smuhtii  \nU<vv  lie  tiilistrtl. 
Doulitlrss  he  chcdsi  s  t(.  sirsr  a  distin^'uislud  mas- 
ter." 

This  was  a  SoiulaiK'Sr  I'nmi   VA  Arish,  a   sentim  1 
and    L,nii(k'  -a    sharivwitt.-.l,    ICn-Iisli-lraiiini   soldier 
i-r  thr, garrison,  who  I. lacked  lus  Iri^'s,  I  usol  to  fancy, 
with  stove-polish  L-\\ry  morning;.      It  was  a  ])l(.'asant 
iiivcnt-ion  of  his,  founded,  no  douht,   n])on  our  in- 
timacy wit'i  the  colonel;  Imt  I  wouM  have  none  of  it. 
I   eoninianded   that   Sheik   Mirza  should  instantly  be 
enlijj;htened   and    reh.\ed:    ,ind    Ah    was  dispatehed 
u]ii>u  this  mission,  ha\  iiv^  been  su.irn  bv  the  beard 
of    the    I'rophet    to   fultil    it    ri-hteouslw      I'pon   his 
return   I   was  chaL^rined   to  le.n-n  that    the  rumor  of 
our  hi.Ljh  station  had    not   eome  to   the  ears  of  (he 
sheik  -who  had  thereu]M)n  n, it  urall\- drawn  his  own 
conclusion   that   the   rurn..r    was   true.     An   c.xalled 
judije,  then,  was  I,  the  }-ouni.;er  kluih'uja  my  secretary. 

We  rode  out  after  sunset,  Al sh  (the  admirable 

dra,:,^oman)  and  the  youn.mr  /■//,?:. w/,;  and  i,  with 
Rachid  afoot — that  raij.ued  xa^abond  and  poi>t  of 
Jerusalem  who  had  folhnwd  our  camp  from  IJeer- 
sheba 

"The    khai-'ajci    will    indulge    me!"    he-    bet,'j^e(l 
"Here  am   I,  jioor   Rachid,  '^o'uv^  down  from  JiTU- 
salem  into  lv-,^vi)t  to  see  the  world,  ridinL,^  upon  his 
own   poor,    weary  feet;  and   shall  he  then   nnss  the 
si-ht  of  a  very  sheik  of  this  wild  desert  in  his  bl.uk 

8y 


!  ^f 


' )  1 


<.  I)  I  \  (,    DO  U  \    ]■  K  ()  \|     I  i;  K  I  s.\  I,  i:  M 


1,^ 


ti'iit  nf  h.iii?'     All,   lull   ihr  kluiw.ij.i   will   sm-rly   m 
<lulj;t.'  Ins  pi  Mir  i.uUiiul  puft  and  story-UliiT!"  — and 
hiTL-  was  Ihii.  lieloval   Rachid,  slridiiii,'  ahead   with 
the  j^'uide  of  Mirza. 

Tlir  uiiid  was  i^Miic  dMwii ;  the  el,  ,uds  were  all  \-an- 
ished  irom  the  wtsUrn  sky;  ;.  clfar  Iwilij^ht  it  w  s, 
still  and  I'olnrlcss,  with  the  first  stars  surrly  appcar- 

in,i;  in  th,    n.imd,  vrlvri  sky,  and  a  full  ii n  iinini- 

n>  nt  undi-r  tlu' h-ri/.m.  \\\  prrsmtl)'  passcl  t'l-Mm 
di'cp  siind  to  a  sail  swamp  -a  llit,  dismal,  vvv<\\, 
stai^nant  I'xpansc,  loul  in  the  midst  ,,f  the  tlran 
<K'scTt.  TluTc  wtiT  jHiols  iiicrnst.'d  with  a  stranj^c 
slinir,  wA  '^vww  and  I'.nniliar,  Imt  "i  a  trisp  and 
j,'hastly  wliili-Miid  all.ni  the  .un. mid  was  hard  undrr- 
foot,  it  was  slipp(r\-  and  clamin>-  and  as  tn^aihcr- 
ously  '^\\\u  as  the  mttini^'  ici^  .if  so-ar  dis^i'.stin-,' 
1"""'-  I'l  t'l''  I'lilin;^  li,L,'lu,  with  inVnt  swifllv  fall-n.i; 
and  the  way  unrert.iin,  here  was  no  Ljralrful  path, 
Init  a  repulsiw  desolation  of  the  .vorld  — a  pi;,  v  of 
false  Water  and  horrilily  tinnalund-appearin,L(  wi^'eta- 
tion. 

\\\'  followed  Mirza'^  •-^v.vlv.  who  led  earelesslv,  u])- 
lifted  [V  im  his  t.isk,  it  seemed,  hy  the  en-ai;in;4  <-'"ii- 
versation  i  R..ehi.i.  The  i.lacv  was  like  a  quiek- 
sand;  disaster  w;  iteil  u-pon  any  di^viation  from  the 
I'ewikK-rin;^  roud ;  the  [iro;j;ress  was  at  hesi  o\er  a 
erust,  with  a  Knisjiini;  depth  of  salt  mire  beneath. 
The  younj^er  khaicaja's  eamel  broke  through  h>  his 
belly,  and  I  made  sure  that  a  clelieate  leg  would  be 
broken;  but  for  a  moment  the  beast  restetl,  awaiting, 

90 


T  1!  R  ore.  II    Til  i;    S  A  I.T    S  \V  A  M  !' 

It  '^■c'tiuil,  till'  \vi  tnI  ipf  liis  situation;  tin  n  w  itli  .im.iz- 
in,u'l\'  p;it:(!it  ;m<l  iiiti  Ili^'riit  i.intinn  lie  i;ot  tn  s.ili.l 
},'rouii(l,  ^riititiiiK  .1  I'lt,  in  a  salistiiil  way,  aini  j^rawly 
proccc'ilrd  ;is  thou;;!!  iiuihin;:  had  happciu'd,  },'i\ing 
the  fumu    impression  of  stupidity  as  ln'forc. 

.My  horse  lloimdncd  if.  the  raiiKTs  uakr;  he  pliuiK- 
cmI  in  alarm,  continuing  to  cry  and  stri\>',  and  must 
be  cleverly  persuaded  from  his  dan;^'erous  predica- 
ment. I  recall  that  his  terror  liad  not  passed,  tliat 
he  was  trenililini^  and  uneasy,  wlien  1  remnunted, 
wet  til  the  waist.  We  were  ;^lad  to  ! ic  awa\-  from 
this  llat,  sally  swamp  to  ilu'  deep  sand  > 'I  tiie  desert 
whicli  w(.'  had  heretofdre  cursed  for  its  dillicultv.  It 
was  not  so  i;reatlv  an  escape  from  tedium  and  jjc'dl 
tliat -^'ratifieil  us,  1  think:  it  was  tlu' ]ea\  inj.;  Inhind — 
Hke  a  disgustful  thin.i:.  come  unexi)ected,  fore\er 
doin'  with —of  a  jilaiv  hurriMe  ln'causi'  n{  its  treach- 
erv,  not  hcekin.i;,  hut  repu<4nant!y  indiffeniit;  because 
i>(  its  breathless  and  sHniy  stagnancy,  fruitful  only  in 
unnaturalncss. 


•wm 


'\  sin:iK  OF  F,T   Tin 

JT  u-as  -n>wn  .lark,   In.t   thr   rirn  nf  the   „i,  „,„  wis 
lapiKMrin-    ahnv.    th.    l,KKk    a.vl     cinu.lv    rolIi„.r 
outlnu.    of    th.   .)cs,,l    ^-  tl.al    sai.lv    harn'.n    which 
l-r  these,  t.n  ,Iays  ha.]    l.cvn   a  .hstana..   uhnsr  hot 
j'-nxon   ha,l    xvl    to].,  arhuu.l       Thcr.   was  a   low 
'""•  ''''■!'  !'■'•  I'"'  li'Tscs,  a  St  -u-.-lr  1m  surnioutit :  then 
aurovrol  .Jat, -,,alni,  Ivin-  in  a  hoUou-.  will,  moonlit 
placcs-a  tinn  -rovv.  sprin-ni.L^  from  tlu'  .and    with- 
out a  w,  II  or  any  1,1a.  1.  of  .^^ass.      !Ktl.  wasthrhahi- 
tatum    ,,,    ,|„,    ,,,,,    siuak    },In-za~a   small,    square 
cncl,.sua.,    n.   the   mi.lst   of  ih.-  .^rrov^..    walled    with 
palm  leaves  skilfully  wox-^n.     The  women's  quarters 
were   near   l,y,    |,ut    xvt   did    not    intrude   upon   the 
niasetihne  imporlanee,  so  that  the  sheik  dwelt  al.u.f 
U.mhis  w.ves,   in  the.  wav  of  (Ik.  n.ost.  rish  men  .>f 
Ih'.se   parts,    who    will    tolerap.   no   lessenin-  of   the 
majesty  oi    their  se'x. 

Sheik  Mirza's  dwellin-  was  parciii.  ,r^"d  in  two- 
tlHre  was  a  ^uest-pLee.  l,v  tile  L:ate.  wlu.v  the  coffee 
hre  u-as  now  -lowin.L^.  and  ati  inne.-  slevpinu-ehamber  • 
these  all  .,pe.n  to  the  sky,  save  that  the  cr.ueh  was 
sheltered  with  a  blaek  cloth  of  goafs  hair,  an<l  so 


ime 


92 


A  s  II  !■:  IK  u  F   irr  ti  h 

part  <it"  the  iiukT  riHiiii  was  nmU'd  wilh  a  tliatch  of 
lea\(.'S.  It  was  all  s\w])l  ekviii  aL^aiiisl  our  comint^'. 
I  was  rriiiiivlc'd  of  a  child's  pLiydiousc  liy  the  nmd 
tloor  and  tiny  pn  ijuM-lii  ms;  it  sct'iiu'd,  1  lancird,  that 
st)nie  h()iisi.'wifi'l\-  liltlr  maid  had  hut  imw  sw(j)t  and 
put  to  ri,':;hts.  I]ul  this  tender  fancv  was  si .,  m  ,]is- 
pellcil  l)y  the  sii^ht  i  if  Mirza's  ^ra\a\  dark  fare,  hent 
owr  the  t'litk'i'  fire,  whieh  !k'  was  nursing  to  a  lilaze. 
We  were  then  seated  in  a  eirelc  a'lout  the  tire  with 
the  elders:  and,  ])resen!l\\  for  i  lur  thirst  was  enlVce, 
and  for  our  hun;4er  a  l>owl  of  i-r  ished  data's:  where- 
updii  we  ate  and  drank  and  luavilv  snicked,  and 
\\\rv  \i  )V  a  li  in<'  titnr  silent. 


No  iire.ah  <>\  wind  was  stirrin<j;:  the  palm  Icax'.'S 
Were  listless  and  st  ill.  thr  sand  inrrl.  the  wlmlr  wi  ir!  i 
\-oieek'Ss.  Hcyiin>l  the  ;j,ate  i  if  the  rnel.isure  .and  the 
tnmks  and  shadnws  i  if  ilu'  L;ni\c  ihe  drscrt  wmt 
white  ,ind  \aeant  tn  tlu'  far-i.f|  risinir  \elliiw  innon, 
with  nil  veLji'tatiiin  tn  intrrrujit  the  nnsi\'  sw(i'p,  ni,r 
any  lixini:  tiling  ti.  knak  the  hra\\d\  in^;  pause  and 
silence  I'resently,  turning  from  this  lan,i);ui  m  ais 
prospect,  I  put  a  shocking  (luestimi  tn  the  sheik.  It 
was  direct  and  akruiit  in  the  Wes!ern  \\a\.  and  im- 
jii'ius.  The  man  was  startled  and  enneerned;  the 
elders  of  his  Irike  were  tniukled  with  siis|ii<-ii  in  a 
mere  llash  <>{  impolitem-ss,  Imwextr.  instanth'  con- 
trolled, liut  d iselosin^L,^  a  very  '^n\\  ><(  difference  be- 
l  wern  these  .\rabs  ami  mn  Western  mmds  and  ways. 

"Do  you  lieliexe  in  find.""    1  asked. 

'^3 


C,  O  I  X  ( ■■    I)  n  \V  \    !•  R  O  M    J  K  R  U  S  A  L  V.  M 

"Truly,  kluiiL-iiji! !"  Sheik  Mir/.a  ciiiswcTfd,  pity- 
ingly. 

"  TluTi'  is  hut  <iiu'  G'kI  ami  Mohammed  is  His 
I'i'i  i])lul,"  \hv  cldtTS  jiatU'R'd,  acoirdiii.i,'  ti>  tin'  form. 

Siiiiu'  uiirasiiK'SS  still  ri'inaiiii'd,  ii]ion  thr  liltk' 
,urou]i,  a])])(.'arin,i.;  iiiosth'  in  rrslk-ss,  (HK'Sti(  iuini; 
Inland's  i.'.\ehan,i,'i.'d  ;  but  \hv  slu'ik  was  placidly  rc- 
s.,'ardini,f  me,  at  anv  rate,  and  I  proceeded,  rudely,  as 
before. 

'■  Why'"  I  demanded. 

Sheik  Mirza  i^^used.  "("/oil  willing,"  he  re])lied, 
gcntlv,  "I  will  a  .>\ver  your  ((ueslion,  i  l(i(,ik  vip  at 
the  stars." 

It  was  a  LTood  answer. 


T  rememliered  wliat  tile  sheik-'s  tribesmen  had  said 
of  their  situation  in  this  lhirst\'  barren.  "C'onie!" 
said   1,  boldlv:  "is  this  ("khI  a  benelieent  God?" 

"Trulv,  khiiicaiii  '" 

I  cauL,'ht  ill  the  answtr  some  exjirrssion  of  pain. 
It  was  an  amazed  eiaculation,  ton.  and  nii^ht  have 
bi  ■!!  \-(iieed  in  liornr  and  resentment  hail  the  polite- 
ness of  the  sheik  lueii  less;  but  he  was  a  mild  man, 
anil  s])oke  <;-entlv,  yet  liftinj^^  his  hands,  in\'i  iluntarily, 
in  siMUe  anxious  pmiest   aL,'ainst  blasphemy. 

"  I  )i  I  \-(iur  ]ie(i]ile  ;^o  lean  of  hun,L;t'i"'  '  1  asked. 

"It  is  true,"  s.iid  he;  "tlu'y  die  of  huni.;er  and 
thirst  in  this  (U'sert." 

"Are  there  deformities  anions^  vou'" 

"Tvulw  /,■/;,;;, •,//',/;  we  ha\e  the  bliuil    and   the  im- 

''4 


A    SII  EI  K    OF    !•  T    TI  II 


bfcilr    and    the    (rippled,  accordiiii,'   to    llir    will    of 

God." 

"An'  men  <4o'«l  or  cx'il  according  as  llu'ir  falluTS 

wcri' '" 

"  It  IS  indii'd  triK'  in  soiik'  casrs." 
"  Lislrn!"  said  I. 

"(iod    \villin;4,"    lu>    rrspondfd,    drawing    nearer. 
"  I  will  carelulK-  listen." 

"Are  the  poor  oppressed?"  I  began,  recollecting, 
as  completely  as  ir.ight  be  at  that  inon  ent,  every 
woe  iif  life  I  knev;  "are  the  weak  ravished?  do 
mothers  die  in  eh'l'  icd  ?do  sonsdesjiite  their  fathers  ' 
do  ouths  lo\e  ho])elessly  '  d"  ehildn,ii  die  by  acci- 
dent '  is  labor  unrewarded  ar.d  ambition  thwarted.' 
is  there  a  merciless  enxy  and  greed  in  your  tribe 
which  will  not  yield  to  correction'  arc'  there  not 
hands  read\-  for  the  nuu-der  of  the  unwary  an.! 
thie\-ery  from  the  un])rotected.  -  are  not  e\i!  men 
trinmjihanl  among  von  and  the  virtuous  ones  \ictims 
of  the  \-ile'"  -and  here  my  ])oor  catalogue  ot  com- 
plaints came  to  its  untimely  and  painful  conclusion. 

"These  things."  said  Sheik  Mirza,  grax'ely,  "  ha]j- 
])en  liv  the  will  of  (iod." 

"Here.  then,  surelv,"  said  T,  "is  injustit'c." 

"There  is  no  injustice,"  he  replieil;  "  it  is  but  a 
seeming." 

"The  tears,"   I  protested,  "are  real  enough !" 

"Trulv.  klhru\ii>i."  said  he,  >Htitly. 

"How,  then,"  1  demanded,  t'^  t rv  him.  "can  vou 
sav  that   (/md   is  good  .' " 

95 


(lOrXfx    DOWX    FROM    j  [■  R  U  S  A  L  E  M 

1m  .r  a  nionu'iit  Slu'ik  Mir;^a  jKUKkTrd  hraxily, 
stirriiiL(  tlu-dyiiiMr  cnals  nf  thu  o>i'(cv  lire.  "  Gm]  wiil- 
ii),L,',"  1k'  rrpliol,  Ii  n  )kinL,'  up  at  last,  "I  will  answer 
>-imr  (HU'Stiiiii :  Liws  there  a  man  wiser  tlian  ("khI  who 
shall  sit  in  jiul^inent  u\)nn  the  arts  of  CkmI?" 

It  was  an  excellent  answer,  I  thouLrlit. 


There  t-nsued  a  lirief  catechism,  and  thonirh  we 
sat  in  a  desert,  .unestsnf  this  .Mohammedan,  (jucstion 
and  answer— the  i  >.  and  .1.  of  the  nearly  f(irg()ttcn 
hook — seemed  y(  t  familiar.  [  he^an  it,  as  a  whim, 
in  this  way:  "What,"  said  I,  "is  the  ehiil'  end  of 
man  '' " 

"To  ser\'e  Cod,  /i7/(/?ei ;;'(;." 

"  Wdia.t  amhition,"   I  asked,  "do  von  cherish?'" 

"  To  ser\e  (iod," 

"What  most  do  yon  desire  in  all  the  world'" 

"  Ti  I  ser\e  ("ii  id   ]iel-feet  1\-." 

"  What   most  <1(  I  \'i  HI  fear?" 

"  Ti '  lail  ti )  ser\-e  I  lim." 

"  How  ^hall  a  man  1  lest  use  his  life?" 

"  In  the  serxice  i  .f  (ioil." 

"  1  ii  lu  shall  a  man  serxc  ( "n  id  ?" 

"  Ii  his  liie  lie  an  rx,im|i!i'  > ,(  pions  resiL;n;ition." 

"  Ilow,"  said  1,  "shall  .i  man  lie  ha]>p\-  in  this 
world:-" 

"It  is  not  hani,  /v7/,;;a,//a,-  if  he  liw  temjieratel}-, 
he  will  siirdv  In'  ha]ip\." 

"  W  liat  eood  d(_)  \-ou  seel:  for  \'oin'  tribe"-'" 
"God    williiiLi,"   he    replied,    (|uiekh-,   "i    will   an- 


A    SH  !•:  I  K    (>  i'     KT    Tin 


swcr   Vdur   (jUcstiKn:   To    liavu    my    people    livi'    al 
peace." 

"And  in  prosperity?'" 

"  It  is  the  self-sanie  tliin.L;."  saiil  \\r. 

Tile  sheik's  youn.t^  soti  eanie  in,  curiosity  having 
got  the  better  of  his  shyness  at  last;  he  siilleil  eon- 
fiiiently  to  his  father,  ami  was  there  embraced  (in 
the  way  of  these  Arab  fathers).  Presently  he  had 
snuggled  close  to  his  father's  feet,  and  was  become 
one  of  our  eompanv.  1  in(|uired,  then,  in  a  blunder- 
ing wav,  concerning  the  boy's  ctlucation:  Would  he 
be  sent  to  the  schools  in  Cairo? 

"  He  was  born  here,"  was  the  answer. 
That  matter?" 

■   i.\'  will,  then,  truh'  li\'e  here." 

"It  is  the  custom  ot'  the  Western  fathers,"  1 
ventured,  "to  advance  their  sons  above  them- 
selves." 

"  !Io\v  ma\'  this  be  done?"  lu'  asked. 

"It  is  said,"  I  replied,  "that  tht-  education  of  ilac 
scIkioIs  promt >tes  it." 

"If  I  sen<l  mv  son  away  to  the  schools,"  he  an- 
swered, like  a  man  who  had  jiondiTed  much  u])on  the 
pmhlem  and  become  ri'solved,  "I  shall  accomp]''.h 
his  ruin.  If  I  send  him  away,  he  will  either  remain 
away  or  rettirn;  it  he  remain,  he  will  be  t  )rever  un- 
liappv,  haxing  been  born  to  the  freedom  of  this  airy 
desert;  if  he  i-eturn.  he  will  be  l"ore\-er  unhappy  also, 
having  tasted  indulgeiKi',  ha\  ing  been  corrupted  Ijy 
the  lu.xury  of  the  city.      Now,  if  I  send  my  son  away 

97 


(. 0  1  .\  ( ;   DO  \\  x   !•  k o  M  J  !•:  k  u  s  a  l  e  m 


(<>  the  schrtols,  and  if  he  nnnain  away,  he  will  either 
sueeecd  or  fail  in  lifi'.  Hut  how,  hdrn  in  this  desert, 
shall  he  sueeeed.  hein^  forexcr  al  a  disadvantaj^e  in 
an  alien  place'  If  he  sueeeed,  what  shall  eompensate 
him  for  the-  stress  and  enntinenient  he  tnust  sulTer"' 
lie  must  li\e  in  a  room;  hut  how  shall  he  endure  to 
live  in  a  room  ?  And  if  hr  fail,  what  then  shall  l)eeome 
of  him  ?  I  will  keep  my  son  with  his  tribesmen  in  the 
sand,  that  he  may  lie  stron.L;  and  courai,ax)us  and  free. 
Here  we  dwell  content,  eultivatini,'  our  few  dates, 
raisinjij  our  flocks  in  jieace,  exehan.uin,^  our  poor 
wealth  for  the  corn  and  cloth  of  other  places,  so 
satisfyini:;  all  our  simple  needs.  What  shall  a 
man  want  more  than  his  freedom:'  We  are  np- 
pressed  neither  by  labor  nor  wicked  men:  and  we 
live  in  our  own  place,  accordint^  to  the  will  of 
God." 

"Vou  are,   then,  content   with  the    lit'e   vou   have 
lived'" 

"It  is  so." 

"And  Would,  ]']\-r  it  (,\,_'r  aij;ain,  (k'ed  for  deed,  day 
by    (lav,    as    you    have    lived    it,    since 
ning.?" 

"  Truly,  kli,!a<ii,}  f" 

My  question  had   never  before  been  answered  in 
this  wav.      I    wa.-^  ama/ed, 

"What  ■■    the  explanation  of  your  contentment?" 
I  demanded. 

!  Ic  looked   uj)  bewildered. 
"Why,"  I  rep.ated,  "are  you  content?" 

98   ' 


the    begin- 


A    SH  R  IK    ()  I-     FT    Tin 

"God    willins;,"   lu    rcplicil,    i-nliLjlitmnl,    "I    wil 
answer  yniir  (iiU'Slidii:  I  Vwc  whew  I  \v:(^,  iMini." 


It  seemed,  after  all,  as  we  rode  baek,  a  j,f(iod  place 
to  live.  It  was  wide  and  clean  and  far  renii>*e  from 
nnist'  and  strife  and  fer\ent  wishing;  and  any  thri)n,i;. 
Xothini:;  clamored,  nothing  ])ressed,  nothini,'  sufTerei', 
nothing  ])ursm'd,  mir  was  there  sight  or  sound  of 
di'Sjiair.  Neither  right  nor  wrong  presented  itself; 
tlu-re  was  neither  wisdnm  nor  folly  in  the  world,  no 
appeal,  no  demand,  no  contrary  ojiinion,  neither 
warning  nor  in\itation.  Fear  was  gone  with  hope; 
exjjectation  had  failed — there  was  no  future  beyond 
the  casual  glance  ahead.  And,  to  \>v  sure,  the  desert 
was  a  beautiful  and  grateful  place  to  ride  in  that  night 
— a  soft  ])ath,  followed  without  liaste  or  handling  of 
the  reins. 

The  moon  was  high,  the  farther  heavens  soft  and 
deep  and  all  alight  with  brilliant  stars.  We  skirted 
the  salt  marsh,  riding  slowly  and  in  silence  thnnigh 
a  perfect  silence.  A  little  wind  blew  up — no  more 
than  a  cooling  breeze,  coming  in  puffs  from  the  direc- 
tion of  the  sea.  They  were  long  ago  all  gone  to  slee}) 
in  the  camp;  and  when  we  were  dismounted,  when  the 
horses  anil  camel  were  tethered,  when  Aljoosh  was 
stowed  away,  when  Rachid  was  snuggled  beneath 
his  rug,  when  the  younger  khaiCiiia  was  stretched 
out  to  slee]),  I  walked  a])art,  where  was  no  glimpse 
of  the  tents.  The  wind  was  still  blowing,  l)ut  not 
risen — a  gentle  stirring  c  5  the  night  air:  no  more  than 

9'> 


M 


r,  o  I  X  f ;  n  o  \v  n  fro  m  j  r:  r  u  s  a  i.  f,  m 

tlial.  I'lil  thrs.iiiil  was  UK  i\  iiii; :  1  listrsicil,  \\it!iiii\' 
ear  cKiS''  ami  1  noild  luai'  tin-  l^w  swisli  i  )|  llu; 
strains. 

Til  tlic  rmidtrst  ]iIao's  df  the  widr  white  circle  cil 
tlu'  worlil  tlu'  saml  was  im  i\in,i^. 

"Tlie  san.  1  is  restless,"  I  sighed,  I'ehoini^  the  nul- 
aucholy  uf  Sheik  Mirza. 


t  ' 


XIX 

Till-;  CON  ri:N  I  i;i)  .\i.\n' 

Wl-^  iiiiiW'il  (,  ;|\-  iiixt  ila\',  as  was  our  hahit, 
IkmidiI  iiiiw  1..  llir  rl-.\l.'l  (\\'(  1!  ,  if  tlio  Slaw). 
In  !lir  first  hnurs  ur  fihIc  in  Mlmrr,  as  always, 
sleep  lieiiiLi  still  hea\\-  ii|Hin  us  ami  the  ila\-  imt 
Net  liHikeii.  1  reinenilii  re^l  the  ci  mteiUinent  nf 
Sheik  Mirza,  aii'l  then  1  ni.illeij  a  ei  )iiteiiteil  niai! 
"f  Daiiias.eus.  I  ha^l  icine  in  iVi  mi  the  street  (\  ix- 
call),  where  the  witnl  was  MdwiiiL:  wet  and  euli]  t'nmi 
tlic  hills.  Xi;^^!it  was  near  eonie.  It  was  already 
dark  in  the  eanojiird  ha/ars;  the  Lnn;^^  Street  Lv 
some  still  I'aneitullv  ealled  Strai.i^ht  -was  silent:  all 
the  little  hanimers  idle,  all  the  littk'  a])]irentiees  ijoni' 
oti  to  tied.  The  jiarade  and  har.ijainin.i;  wire  owr 
tor  tlu'  day;  the  stalls  were  ^hutti'red,  the  sho])- 
kee[)ers  shut'lhnj;  home.  A  ,L;lo(imv  nii^ht,  this,  and 
by  the  dusk  and  vacaney  of  tlte  streils  was  the  wet 
wiml  made  the  •'ore  dishearti,'nin,L,\  In  the  L,'reat 
ehamluT  of  otir  (hvellin;^\  however.  Sliukri  had  the 
lamp  alii.,du  and  the  tire  eraeklin.i:.  It  was  all  warm 
and  softly  a.^dow  and  familiar:  made  home  to  us  by 
the  ru;4S  and  tapestri(  s  we  had  ;.athered,  and  liy 
the  youuL^er  Liiiiw.iiii's  \esscds   of  brass   and  copper, 

lOI 


<;  o  I  \  ( ,   DOWN   I  R  o  M    1 1;  k  u  s  a  i,  e  m 


iii'W  rcllcciiii.i^  Uir  l.iiniilr^ht,  I  .iL'li  with  its  pcctili.ir 
lusln-. 

'I1ic  yniin.L;(i-  hhdh'iij'i  nwl  tli;it  Taiilik  wIki  sciAt'l 
liiin  were  imt.  yrt  rttunicil.  'Flu  y  \\n<\  lalK  n,  then 
(I  l.iTxic'l ),  uji'iii  sonic  (.  iU(Tt;iiniii,L;  ;i(|\ciitiiri — 
there  was  iinwiio  li:;l',l  almia'l  l'"r  the  k-hnhiii'i's  cni- 
vasand  oilors.  I  lirt'w  \hv  Blue  ISnkhani  elnsc  t'l  the 
fire  ati'l  tluTr  l,i\-  iluwi!,  Iis1(.'iiin;4  t"  tlir  cliatliT  of 
tlir  Maze  aiiil  111  llir  rain  mi  l!if  ]iaiu's;  ami  I  was 
iinirh  !iiii\c.l,  I  iwall,  1(\-  llu'  Mind  man's  st'ir\-  <<{ 
the  ('ani)un  and  llir  An.uil  (which  I  sliall  |iri'sinllv 
'■(latci.  and  wislicd  that  the  uiiliftt'd  nimul  rni,L;hl 
find  e\]in  ssinii  in  snnu'  deed.  I'lxm  this  nmsin^  tlie 
ynun^^iT  kli'iiiuijii  I'urst  in,  as  lhon;.;h  iscajun;,^  jmr- 
snit,  his  e\i  s  at  thi'  widest,  liis  eaj)  askew  mi  the  1  viek 
lit"  his  head,  his  eane  waxing  in  a  fn'iizy  i  it'  eniutKin; 
and  1  knew,  kniiwin^  hini,  tliat  smne  cne'iuntcr  ol 
the  (|ueer  struts  we  tra\ersed  Iiad  niiiihtily  stirred 
hini. 

"Aut'ul!"  hv  ijaeulaled,  in  his  exlra\  as^'anl  way. 
"1   till   \iiu  it  was  fe.irful  — terrilile   -hurritde!" 

It  scorns  that  the  \-nnn,m.'r  kli,i\'<iiii  and  Tautlk, 
wandering;  limne  t'rmn  .i  A/;.;;/  <  if  the  eaniel-drivc  rs, 
liad  eimscMi  the  winddn^  liv-slreels;  and  havint:  emnc 
]»art  way  most  iU'\iousl\,  had  jiaused  wlieri'  two 
alU'\s  nn't  in  a  .ulooniv  areliway,  whenee  a  narrower 
lane,  1  villi;  lirtwi'en  lii^h  ,^ray  walls,  kd  in  a  drep 
ohseurity,  promisiiii;  no  outlet.  While  tliey  de- 
viated— the  predieanient  ajipearin.u  awkward  in  the 
gathering   night — the   younger   k'haiL\ija   ehaiieed    to 

I02 


T  II  i;  CO  XT  i;  \'  T  i;  d  m  a  \ 


(il)M'r\  ('  .-I  ;^1mw  m|'  re] -111  ,1  li-ht  in  the  >li.ii|'ius  ni'ir  Iiy. 
Il  issued  irom  Ihr  fiid  '<{  tlir  lan.c,  ulii(  li  IrrtiiiiKilcd, 
.'IS  llu'V  now  nl)S(T\-t'd,  in  an  uniltri^n  >iiiid  cliaiiilHT, 
to  which  u  Irll  liy  wa\-  111'  a  lin>kfii  stairway  of  liroad 
stones.  I*r('S(ii1Iy  within,  the  youn^iT  k'litthuijd 
discovered  hinisell"  IkIow  (hu  of  Ihr  l.aths  of  tli. 
city,  from  tlic  licalin^,'  furnacr  ^i  \\hi(h  procccilcd 
thai  lint  ami  w.ryin^'  ^'low  which  had  .ittnieted 
him. 

IKrc  was  an  •  iM  manias  instanth-  ap])(arcd  fnun 
the  i|ii,ilit\-  i<\  his  \(iicc,  hcin.L;  lift.cl  tiniidh-  !■>  df- 
mand  wlial  ]iii  s(  hit  had  disturltrd  him  an  i>M,  mM 
man,  1\  in^;  ontsi  r(  tchid  nil  his  IkIK-  upon  a  licap  of 
cliopprd  stiMu  ai  the  hltlc  round  mouth  "f  the  fur- 
nace, which  was  no  more  than  a  h"!,'  in  llic  wall,  IK' 
was  cm])!oyi_(l,  il  sccnicil,  in  th.rusliu;,,'  the  slr.iw 
throu,L;h  the  aperture,  a  handful  at  a  time,  so  that 
it  tell,  a  continuous  stri'am,  ujiou  the  fire  helow. 
There  was  no  .  uie  else  ahout  :  the  old  man  was  Ivin.i; 
(juite  alone  in  thi'  dark,  which  was  hot  and  dusty 
and  most  joul  to  smell. 

"  !t  is  a   wretched   lahor,"  s.ii.l   the  younger  klui- 

"Not  so,"  answered  the  old  man;  "it  is  a  labor  t'or 
which  I  thank  (r'd.  since,  iImu-Ii  I  am  old,  I  .im  not 
yet  turned  bcL^^ar." 

The  k'hiiii'iiii!  would   know  the  reward. 

"Sutricient  to  my  small  need,"  was  thi-  rei)]y. 

"""xjicnce  a  da\! 

"  Have  you  no  heliKr"'" 
8  lo; 


<.«'  1  \  (,     DO  W  \     I    K()  M    J  h  R  L'  >  A  1.  i;  M 

"ThtTf  ;iri'  liltlr  iliil'lrui  litR'alxMit,  wlio  pl.iy  at 
pusliiiij^  straw  llirf)u;4li  the  Imlc;  .uid  they  ^ixc  mc 
rest  in  the  day,  soitietimcs." 

"Whit!"  iriid  the  khawnja,  "yoii  lalv^r  hv  ni^^ht 
aiKl  l.y  I  lay?" 

"Truly,  khimaja,  wiih  iniuh  lliaiik!uliu>s  ti.Clorl 
for  the  opportunity.  1  must  he  diligent  lesl  trouble 
befall  me." 

"What   trouI)le  nii-tiaees?"  asked  the  hlurii'ttjii. 

"The  keep<'r  of  the  baths,"  was  Ihi  ,iiisvv(  r,  "  niii^ht 
tuiu  Ulf  ol'f." 

"  I  la\c  you  no  sleep  at  all  '" 

'  Wliti>  the  firi'  is  hot,"  saul  tlu'  old  man,  "  I  m.iy 
sitc'p  a  iiltk';  and  sonntinus  I  foi-ct  m\silf  and 
slcip  ai^aiiist    inv  will." 

"Now  1"P!^."  (li-niandid  tlic  klhncdjii,  "'have  you 
lain  here """ 

"Since  before  1   went  blind  of  tliis  dust." 

"The  nnmlHr  of  these  \ears?" 

'■('.od  h.is  privik'ued  me  \vilh  the  fa\or  of  the  l)ath- 
keepei"  for  these  eij^ht   vears." 

"  I-"ririid,"  iiKiuircd  the  kluih-'ijii,  amazed,  "dn  \-nu 
d  v,.'ll  o  .nil  lit    wiih   \''  >iir  !i  .1  '  " 

'Thanks  It  1m  (  Im.I  !"  tlu'  ( ild  man  n  phid. 

The  \-ouTi,<;er  kliaivdiii  i^ave  thi'  old  man  a  ^'old 
I'icce,  and  must  then  ,ill  ,it  .  incv  take  t.)  his  heels  to 
escape  that  ag(in\-  i>\  L;r.itiiude. 


"Come!"   1   said,   when  the  vriunj^er  kliaauiiii  had 
related  his  adxeiiture;  "ue  ha\e  this  dav  both  been 

104 


T  fi  K    COXT  i:  XT  I-  [)    MA  X 

fortunate:  1  havf  li.'in  dfii^^h'i  d  with  .1  story,  and 
you  liaxc  ilMtu-  a  dml 

"Ti  II  iiif  the  stury,"  said  hr. 
I    Will   I'll  tin    story."  I  answered,  "  il'  yw   will 
shan    ilir  dird." 

To  ihis  lie  assi'Mted  ;  ami  I  told  him  the  storv  of 
the  an^il  and  Uie  miioun  and  the  little  lijind  Musii 
\vh(j  had  wandered  the  streets  l>eseeching. 


r. 


XX 


THF    CAXnrN    AM)    TUF    A\(^K1, 


IT  was  in  Damascus  thai  I  heard  thr  story,  iiml 
>  m  a  (Irrar  dav:  unw  liad  oir.c  a  culd  wind  iipuii 
tlif  city—  Xt)venib(.T  weather,  Idowini,'  from  the  heb- 
aiv>n  liills,  where,  ])V  all  tra\e11ers'  tale>,  snow  had 
dee])l\'  la  lien.  It  was  rainini^  in  .m'sLy  showers  trmn 
a  low  Lirav  skv;  the  town  was  ih'.  nclu'd  and  si/lasliei] 
and  shi\'erin,n — the  canopies  leakin.^,  the  raii.ued,  trcs 
adnp.  the  streets  slu;j;;4ish  rivers  of  mnd.  From  the 
lialcon\'  window  the  pros]X'Ct  was  mean  (.■7iou,!^h  :  dis- 
heartened doi^s,  dniw^  (if  jiesjiattered  donl<eys,  cam- 
els treading  llie  slipperx'  places  with  slow  caution, 
dri}>j;)in.ii;  l)e,L;j,'ars,  wayfarers  in  from  the  so_m,fy  jdains, 
merchants  of  the  town  with  f  ices  screwed,  sc()wlin,y; 
BedouiTis,  dull  fellaheen — e\'crv  man  wra])peil  t  is.,dit 
HI  his  clo;!k,  of  fur,  sheep-skin,  or  raijs,  .accordiuL,'  to 
the  dealings  of  \<  irlune. 

1  ol)Ser\-ed  a  mangy  dog  \cnture  from  the  lee  of  the 
wall,  stand  three-footed  and  cowering  in  a  po  ,'  (,{ 
mud,  and  return  ]ireseiUly  to  cuddle  with  his  n.ates. 
A  drove  of  fat-tailed  sheep  crossed  the  ri\er  on  the 
way  to  market,  driven  by  three  diistracted  children, 
who  must  gather  the  Hock  from  an  unfortunate  eol- 

jo6 


T  1 1  !•:   C  A  X  < )  U  \    A  X  1)    Til  i:    A  X  (•  !•:  L 


lision  I  if  a  cotnpanv  of  donkeys  with  a  strin.i,'  of  wfirni- 
carrvin^  camels  and  a  saney  old  tnan  on  the  baek  of  a 
white  ass.  A  sheik  of  the  Bedouins  eaine,  arri\i'd 
from  Some  distant  iilaer,  having  entei\'d  li_\'  (iod's 
Gate,  now  ridiii.i:  proU'Uy,  his  n  >be  and  kafjiych  thittiT- 
inj^  in  thi'  wet  wind,  three  serx'ants  respeetfnll}'  fol- 
lowing, ail  anned  to  the  licth,  sword,  da^'j.Ter,  and 
lonj:;  ;4tin:  an  alert  and  travel-stained  cavalcade,  not 
used   vet  to  the  seematy  nf  tlu>  town. 

A  trumpet  was  Mnwn,  tmt  in  no  spirited  way; 
an  outrider  i^allopcd  past,  and  the  Vali  drove  l-y, 
with  an  escort  of  starved  and  listless  soldiery,  brush- 
ed up,  indeed,  for  this  ser\'iee.  hui  still  somehow  Udt 
differiuL:  from  the  ra<;j,'ed,  an;emie  crew  who  j,'o  utter- 
ly im])overished  in  the  Sultan's  ser\iee.  Some  pious 
Mohammedan,  favored  I>y  fortune,  appeand  with  a 
lon<j  stick,  a  bag,  and  a  m,.  servaiit:  he  would  feed 
the  'lo^s,  I  kn(.w,  in  fulfilment  of  a  \-ow,  and  I  sur- 
mised, 1  recall,  that  his  son's  life  had  been  saved, 
since  I  could  (.'oneeixe  no  otlu  r  thankfulness  sufhcient 
to  nio\'e  a  Mohamnn-dan  i  if  Damascus  t(»  the  deed, 
tht' da\-  beiiii;  wtl  and  e'lfl.  I  !e  exehanued  with  his 
servant  tlu'  stick  for  the  b:!;^.  "Whish!  whish! 
wh'sh!  "  they  called.  The  <lo^s  charged— a  famished 
snapping  swarm — and  must  be  beaten  to  their  dis- 
tance. 

I  dispalchtd  Taufik  to  discover  the  cause  of  the 
man's  gratitude. 

"This  man,"  he  reporteil,  returning,  "has  but 
now  sold  his  beast  to  advantage  iu  the  ass-market." 

i07 


ti  {)  J  \  V,   ij ( )  w  .\   i"  k  I )  M    I  i:  k  L'  s  A  I,  !•;  m 

TIktc  \v;is  a  l^ip  at   the  ,!(,(„-  -  a  .liHi(i(t)t    t,.],,   u, 
sinuatiiiLi    and    a]«  il.  .i^rtir,    almost    sul>sor\i(  nt ,    Imt 
cscaiiint;  that.      It  was  the  hand  .  .f  thr  IntiT]>rrt(.T- 
a   p-ay  liitK-  pliil.  .s<  iphcr,  r,f  the  cnlluicd   Christian 
dass,   acr.iinphshrd,   clr\ vr,   and    kindlv.   and    ..f  an 
ama/,in,^l_\-    iinpcccaM.'    jiMliunrss — who   appi-nachcd 
tht' l)aIc-( my  window  ^Mth  many  !' i\v  lious  and  compli- 
nu'iitary   spccrh^s.      It    was   with   .lifricuhy.    indtvd, 
tliat  I  had  p.  rsuadcd  him  to  sirw  nu\      "I  olisrrve," 
■"^^'I'l  hr,  "thil  you  arc  inlrrrstcd   in  this  MMliamnu- 
dan's  i)i('t_\-,  which  is  not,  hourxcr,  .is  nitcn'stiiii^'as  thr 
tlogs.      It  is  a  cuiiMus  thini;  al.out   the  dorjs  of  Da- 
mascus that  each   must   dwr]!   in   thr  (|uarttr  of  liis 
hirlli;  liut  _\-ct,  as  1  ha\('  many  times  ol)S(_'rviMl,  a  <.]n'.^ 
niay   waiidi  r  tVom   his  jilarc,   ,!L,'oin_i,r   in  pcacf,    it'  hr 
may  acconq^.lisli  an  ai-raiiL^cnu'iit  with  the  nci,i^dil .or^ 
in.L,' ] lacks,  and  will  hut  j-rocccd    imicahlw  and  under 
est'ort  from  frontier  to  frontier.      It   is  ai  much  the 
same  w,ty  that  the  wild   Hed,.uins  t      . d  the  dcsi-rt. 
The    .Mohammedan,"    he    proceeded,    "has    sold    his 
boast:"     Very  well,   then:   I   understand.     This  -ood 
man  lias  rotthed   the  i)urchaser  in  much  nvvv  than 
he   had.    hoiied,    and    will    v.nw   U' .t   on]\-    pacify    the 
Recordin;4  An;^el,  hut  cultiv.ate  the  favor  of  lleaxen, 
hy  returning  to  the  Almii^hly  some  part  of  the  profit 
"i  his  deceit.     Td-tiijit  he  will  sleep  with  a  li.qiittT 
conscience  and  a   heavier  pur.^e;  .-md   io-morro\\    he 
will  rise  n'lVeshed,  sustained  li\-  his  rcli,c;ion,  to  .seek 
another  victim." 

Ihadelsewhcrehcard  something  of  this  saniejjract  ice. 

1 08 


T  li  i:  c  A  X  o  u  .\  A  X  D  T  H  I-:  a  x  g  e  i. 


"Conu'!"  Siii<l  llic  In  I'pivlcr,  as  ihv  pnais  Mo- 
lianunnlaii  IraiKr  lirparUil ;  "  wi.'  will  \  isil  llir  j»)i.'L." 

I  woujil  ntii  call  upDii  the  pud. 

"Bui,"  he  pi\)lcstcii,  "he  is  wise  and  learneil,  the 
greatest  ]x>et  in  all  Syria,  ami     a — rich— man!" 

TluTeupitn  we  set  i>ul  ii>v  ihe  liutne  ui  the  jKiet. 

As  we  walked,  the  hUerjireter  b>\'\  nie  sc  miethinjj; 
of  interest  euncernin.i;  a  <4reat  traxelk'r— that  nne 
consitlerable  traveller  of  the  ereat  Arabian  Desert  of 
whose  account  ^ood  words  are  spoken  in  Damascus. 
It  seenii;  that  he  was  taus^jht  Araliie  liv  llie  Inter- 
preter, li\-in,i;  one  year  with  hini,  not  only  IrarninL;  the 
lani^ua_y;e,  but  teaehinjj;  his  stoniaeh  to  cndmx'  for 
many  days  upon  dates,  for  I'xaniple,  or  _yo  hnni'ry, 
and  liis  whole  body  to  ;_;o  thirstv.  "  \'on  dn  not 
believe  in  Christ,  dear  frien<l.  nor  yrt  in  tiir  l'r(>])het," 
said  the  Interjireter:  "  what,  then,  is  vmn-  r''li'.'ii  )n  ?'" 
"  I  am  an  intidel,"  was  the  answ>  r;  "  tlu  re  is  n^  >  ( imi 
in  whom  1  lielie\e."  "Is  an  infidel  of  this  ehar- 
acterr'"  exclaimed  the  Interjin'trr.  "An  intidil," 
was  the  reply,  "is  a  man  who  beliex'es  in  no  (iod, 
neither  cares  for  the  wrath  nor  mercy  of  any."  But 
now,  curiously,  when  this  man  was  ready  to  depart 
upon  his  journey,  lu'  came  to  the  Interpreter,  with 
a  rini;  upion  his  hand,  his  seal,  as  men  who  j^o  into 
the  desert  should  ha\-e  "Wliat!"  cried  the  Inter- 
preter, in  amazement,  \dit  ii  he  li,id  read  the  inscrip- 
tion; "yciu  call  yourself  '  Khalil,"  which  is  'A  friend'? 
It  is  a  Christian  name,  and  will  instant  1\-  d.eclare  vou 
a  Nasrany.  to  yonr  imminent  peril  in  these  far  places. 

109 


G  O  I  X  Ci    DOW  X    !■  R  O  M    J  i:  R  U  S  A  L  K  M 

As  y(ni  are  an  intiik'!,  hclicvinii  in  nu  G'  i,  wliy  not 
take  u  Moliamnu'ilan  name,  McluaunKii,  Ahi:,i.(l, 
or  -Mustafa,  and  in  this  way  ease  _\i)ur  path  '" 

"This,"  the  trax'eller  answerei!,      1   will  not  do." 

"  Whv  not"'"  the  liiterprrter  insisted,  "^'llua^■ 
an  inlid' !,  helie\in;4  in  nn  liod,  and  should  ha\e  no 
coinijunclion." 

"  Ijecanse,"  re])lii'(l  the  tra\tller. 

"It  is  no  answer,"  said  thr  Intrrj)reter. 

"I  will  not  d,(,  this  thin;;,"  the  1  ra\'eller  deelared, 
"l)ecause  (  f  tlie  (lod  of  my  fathers,  I  was  born  as  I 
am  born,  of  Christian  parents,  in  a  Christian  land, 
a  land  of  brotlurK'  kindness  and  benetieent  law  be- 
cause of  Christianity  ;  and  I  will  journey  as  a  Christian 
or  die  a  mart\'r." 

In  till  wild  desert,  whert'  in  the  accomplishment  of 
his  death  sonu'  man  mi,L;!it  haw  won  merit,  the  Red- 
ouins  often  said  t"  this  trawller,  "Say  but  this, 
'There  is  but  one  Cod,  and  Mohammed  is  liis 
I'l'iiphet,'  and  \<)ur  V\\r  will  br  sjuuvd."  The 
Irawller  would  not;  but  after  thn^e  vears,  neverthe- 
liss,  he  emeri^a'd.  I  clo  ni  m  know  wluthcr  he  is  an 
infidel  now  <  ir  not.  At  an\'  rate,  he  is  no  Moham- 
medan. 


We  h.-id  cnmo  now,  by  a  way  most  devious  and 
dirtv.  III  the  huTne  of  die  ])o(>t  :  a  ;,;reat,  ]irel('n1  it  ms 
plaei.',  no  duubt,  but  situatt  in  a  wretched  <|uaiier, 
an<l,  except  for  a  gor^'cously  clad  porter  at  the  little 
gate,  and  a  loni;  blank  wall  broken  too  se\erely  by 

i  I  o 


WE       HAD      COME       BY       A       DEVfOUS      WAY       TO      THE 
HOME      OF      THE       POET 


T  1 1  !■:    C  A  X  O  U  X    A  X  I)    Til  !•:    A  X  C.  E  L 


ihv  latlici'd  windows  <>[  tlir  harem,  hanlly  ilis- 
lin<,aushabk'  In  nil  lis  nn-'aiu-r  lit'iijhliurs. 

"Ik'iv,"  1  omijilaiiu'tl,  "  k>  an  iiilrusu.)ii.'" 

"  U  is  iiuL  so,"  nplieil  Uic  liiUrprclcr,  tariii'Stly. 
"Xi'  persunagc  t>l  Darnascus  wmilil  dtny  a  stranj^fr 
of  slalioii.  You  iiiusl  seek  1''^  i/raY;:;.  It  is  the 
eusloni.  There  is  no  other  way.  W'oiiM  >on  lia\'0 
liini  eall  upon  yo!'/" 

"The  ailveiilure  is  vours,"  I  assinted. 

I  recall  a  spacious  entry  lieax  y  stone  arches  over- 
lieaii,  a  mosaic  tloi  n",  new  washeil     ami  a  l)kick  man 


in    white   linen,   scarrei 


1  111  the  cheeks,  like  a  s]a\'e 
come  to  Damascus  from  the  Somlan  l>y  way  of  the 
desert  tents.  There  was  a  n:iniaturt'  iranlen,  .  hii;h- 
walled  court-yard,  with  close-cropped  hcd;4es  and 
mollycoddled  llowers;  this  was  an  ai^^reeabk  jflinipse, 
hi^h  colored  a'ld  wet  with  rain— a  fresh,  swect- 
smellini,'  jKitch,  fallen  wyn  from  the  evil-cKlorcd 
street.  IIa]>i>il\-,  as  it  seemed  to  me— liut  much  to 
tlu^  cha.urin  of  the  Interprtler— the  poet  was  t;one 
out:  (k'parted  (said  they  who  loitered  awaiting  him) 
to  talk  with  some  cclekrated  theoloajan,  arrived  un- 
expertedlv  from  the  I':ast.  There  was  a  sheik  of 
learninir,  however,  distributing  flowers  of  wisdom  in 
an  anteroom,  whom  I  observed  with  much  interest, 
siiKx-  I  had  never  seen  the  like  of  it  before.  The  In- 
teqireter  explained  that  he  was  a  famous  theologian, 
whose  learning  was  much  sought  because  of  its 
hetero(k)Xv,  which,  howe\er.  had  not  y^-t  trans- 
the  limits  of  his  i)ersonal  security.  Thus 
1 1 1 


pressed 


(;  O  I  \  ( ;    [ )  ()  \v  \    p  R  f )  \]     I  i:  R  u  S  A  I.  K  M 

f.ir  lie  Ii.ul  w.ilkcd  ilu'  niazr  with  cli'wr  IrrL;  IniL  ihriv 
woulil  iDinc  a  linn.'  wlicii  soiiR'  indiscTi't ion  wmiM 
not  only  accnmi.ilisli  his  ruin,  Intt  in\dl\i'  his  p'Hir 
Studrnts  in  llir  downfall.  It  u.is  thr  rustMin  i<i  this 
man,  it  si'L'nH'd,  to  usr  thr  hoiins  ■  if  tin-  .uiXMt,  ha\  \ui[ 
noconsidfralik'  rstahlishmfnt  ot  his  own.  Ilr  would 
repair  here  or  ihtrv,  acvonlinjj;  to  tlu  whim  m|'  tlu' 
inorninj,',  and,  discovered  ])y  his  jnipils,  would  iin- 
jiart  instruetion  or  not,  as  his  humor  went.  It  was 
apparent,  imked,  that  he  was  esteemed  as  a  tc^aeher. 
\(;w  eleL;antly  at  ease  on  a  cushioned  (//;ei;;;,  he  was 
siu-rounded  liy  a  group  of  hero-w<  irshi]>|)ing  listeners, 
sijuatteil  at  his  feet,  the  fa\ored  reeliniii;;  heside  him 

mosth-  hoys  with  sniall-^rown  hiards,  who  huz/.ed 
at  tlif  llanii'  of  this  dangerous  learning,  e\ery  youth 
ol  them  all  doubtless  even  then  under  espionage. 

'■  It  is  Will  known,"  said  thf  Inb  rpivtrr,  impatient- 
ly, as  we  de]iartiil,  "'that,  tin-  man  is  undt  r  suspiei(  in. 
I  cannot  conci'i\e  why  these  jionr  ymulis  sliMuld 
lolldw  him.  The\-  follow,  indeed,  to  a  great  eatas- 
tn  'iihe." 

■■  W'lierefore '"  I  deni.nuKd. 

"In  Damascus,"  he  answered,  absenllv,  "it  is 
wise  to  he  eireumsjiect ." 

"What    peril,"   1  asked,  "can  threaten  these  Ijalf- 


"  The  jieril,"  lie  answered,  "that  waits  ujx.n  new 
teaching." 

"The  man's  teaeliin;^"  1  olijeeled.  "is  not  pulit- 
ical." 

112 


Til  !•:   (A  xoi'  .\    A  \  I)   'j-  II  i;   A  xc  I-:  l 


"l-.\(r\'  iicw  iIiiiil;,"  Ik'  aiiswcml,  "is  ]n 'lit  icij." 
I  n  tin  iiilurril  llic  ciiti'i-in-isinj^  j^rntlcniiii  i  .|  iii  i- 
'■lit  v!i()  tiail  imliscivrlly  tii.';^r;iplu'il  in  l'^i;.'Iish  to 
1-1  III! ion  ti>r  ;in  cti.^im'  ot  ci^'lit  v  rc\i  ilntidiis  a  iiiiiuiU'. 
Ki,!j;lity  rcvcijutions  a  iiiiimtr'  Tlir  enisurs  at  Con- 
stantiii(.]iK  \\\vv  shuckol;  Ihu  iiKlisLTLxi  (.ili/Aii  was 
cast  iiili  I  prist  111. 


\.\I 


TIIK    C.\\nv\    AM.     I  hi:     \SV,E\.  —  (('oiltU!H.,l) 

Wy.  p.iss.vl  the  (l.ilr  (.r  St  Thomas  cniudin- 
tiir<u\^li  thr  ilanip  aii'l  smwlin.L;  swarm  ami 
flimhod  a  dcsi'itol  hy-stntt  much  in  intd  nf  .m 
industrious  sca\X'n.m'r,  whence,  l,v  way  <>f  ;i  Imv, 
arched  passa>,'e,  we  einertjed  al.ruptly  into  a  hroader 
t hnr()u>,'hfart',  streaming  with  sullen  ])edestrians  and 
dripping-  donkeys.  Presently  the  Iiilerpntcr  sto].- 
ped  under  the  latticed  balcony  of  a  niean-api)earin;4 
house  and  knocked  hjudh-  on  the  door. 

"Here  lives,"  said  hv.  while  we  w.aited,  "a  hlind 
musician.  Mii-,a  llalim,  a  jilayer  ujKm  the  oiid  und 
canonn.  who  thrives  much  l^'ttcr  than  most  musicians 
of  Damascus,  hein.cj  a  .^tiule  and  respecta!>le  person. 
There  is  a  curious  story  in  connection  with  him, 
lo'-  uhuli  1  can  \ouch,  lia\in,L;had  it  from  my  mother, 
to  whom  it  was  wcl!  km.wn.  The  man  is  a  foundling, 
though  he  is  not  himself  aware  of  his  ori.yin,  but  con- 
ceives himself  to  be  the  true  son  of  his  foster-mother, 
who  is  now  lon.u  dead.  He  was  picked  up  in  the 
street  by  a  childless  woman,  by  whom  he  was  much 
loved  until  she  discoveretl  that  he  was  blind:  and 
after  that  she  cared  no  more  for  him.  but  reared  him, 
as  in  duty  bound." 

114 


MUSA       HALIM      THE       BLIND       MUSICIAN 


THE    ('  A  \()  U  X    A  \  I)    Til  i:    A  \  (]  ]-.  \. 

At  this  pnint  tlif  door  was  opctU'd,  ;in(l  we  wiTl' 
with  niiu  h  politfiiL'SS  uslicrcd  intij  ;i  small  ronrt  v.nd 
will  re  ili(  I iiti' placing'  Ijraiirlu'S  of  xhv  Kiiion-tRvs 
diil/pcd  like  rain.  A  wooduii  stair  kd  tluiui'  to  a 
room  overluokiii}4  the  street,  where  sat  tin  IJiiid 
musician  idly  stnimminj^  a  great  coriiiiKiit  (•/(,/.  i !  ■ 
was  old  and  clad  accorclin^  to  his  station,  in  a  cotton 
gow!i  a  ^'(.'tUle.  patient-f:'.ced  man,  c|uick  to  smile 
in  a  child  like  way,  so  that,  hcholdiii),'  him,  one's 
h.  .lit  was  tenderly  enlisted.  I  fancied  th.it  li-  was 
shy  and  kind,  j,nven  much  to  lovini,'  th(tse  ujMin 
whom  he  (Irprnded;  and  thi.^.  indicd,  the  Inter- 
preter said  was  true. 

Musa  played  presently:  :av\  I  listeiiei],  eni^ai-ed 
Imt  not  coiiiiJreliendinL,',  until  the  lii'.lit  l't;.\iii  to  I.mI 
in  the  little  room.  And  as  he  played,  he  talked  with 
the  Interjjreter — at  last  pultinj,'  aside  the  oud,  and 
curiously  gesturing,  smiling  wistfully,  too. 

"It  is  a  ])rett\'  stor\'  of  his  ehiMhooil,"  said  the 
Inti'rpreter,  when  .Musa  had  fallc  n  silent,  "  I  will 
tell  it  to  y(  ju." 

I  heard  tlu'u  the  stor\-  of  the  ciiiioitii*  and  the 
ani;el,   which  pleased  u\v  verv  much. 

"  Ltmg  ago,"  tlu'  lnteri)reter  began,  '  when  this  old 
Musa  was  a  littK'  child,  his  mother  was  imkirulK'  dis- 
{)osed  toward  him  because  he  was  blind. 

■•  'What  is  the  use  of  a  blind  Iioy  who  must  t'orex'er 
consume,   but   contribute  nothing''  she   would  sav. 


♦A  stringed  instrument  roricmbliiif.;  a /^iUier. 
1  >S 


V.  o  1  \  t;  D  (   w  x   1  R  o  M  J  [•:  k  u  s  a  l  k  m 

'I  liai!  rathiT  ]\;i\v  a  sitIiisj:  eirl  than  a  Iiliiid  I  my,' 
•anl-^lic;    'and  1  liaii  ratliiT  haw  lUitlicr  than  cillur.' 

■'I)a\  !>>  (!a\-  {\iv  link'  .Musa  must  listen  to  ihcc 
c'i.m[ilaiiils,  and  thi)n'di  hl-  was  wcundcd  snrfl>  ,  as 
111'  >a\s,  lir  Would  ncuht-r  cui-st'  Cnni  hfcausi'  ut'  his 
allli(,'ti(m  n(ir  ansuiT  his  mollKT  in  anL;rr,  la-lirx  iiii,' 
al\va\\;  i:,  tiu'  wisdcmi  of  ("md. 

'"\Vluii  1  am  >4r<)\\n,'  he  wouK]  ixply,  'Iwill  find 
a  work  |.  'I-  the  Mind  |o  do.' 

'"TlU'iT  ai\-  till'  Mind  and  the  Mind,'  said  sho, 
'and  \iiu  aiv  ot'  ihv  Mind  who  arr  Mind  indeed.  Is 
il  so  that  I  am  t<^  sti-\e  you  all  my  life  and  gain  no 
snia'lesl  ser\iee  in  return'" 

Xo,'  answeretl  .Musa  ;  'the  <,'ood  Cod  who  en  a  ted 
me,  lea\in,:^  nie  lilind,  will  yrt  t,u\e  me  some  lahor 
that  a  Mind  hoy  may  do.' 

"To  C'seape  his  niotlur's  wailirii;  he  would  then  go 
into  tile  street,  where  he  must  feel  his  wa\-  alcjui;  the 
walls,  \,v]Ui:  eai-eful  Ui  a\<'id  the  teeth  and  ho(;ls 
ol  the  1  leasts  of  llu'  eit\-,  hut  not  tearin^j  the  men  of 
l)ania>eus,  who  are  tender  to  the  alllieted,  according 
to  tliu  teachings  of  iluir  religion,  [-"irst  a  step  or 
more;  then  Iraoiu!,  e\-e!Uuall>-  to  the  corner,  and 
at  last  into  the  Long  i^azar,  where  he  made  friend-, 
and  would  often  sit  m  tlu'  shop  of  a  fez-prcsscr,  who 
eherishrd  him. 

'"I  ha\e  a  brother-in-law  whose  wife  is  the 
daughter  of  a  silk  \vea\  er,'  said  liis  motlur,  'and  to 
this  man  1  will  aj 'preiuiei'  \'ou,  for  surely  you  have 
stieiiglh   to  turn  tlie  wlnil' 

I  lit 


T  1 1  L    C  A  X  ( )  U  .\    .\  .\  I )     Til  !■:    A  .\  ( ,  i:  I, 


li.  this  Wciy  llu'  M'Mil  Musa  ciiiil-  In  tiu'ii  the 
j^Tcat  wheel  (if  i\\v  ^ilk-wrawr;  l)Ul  lie  was  yet  NduiiL; 
Inr  the  einployinent,  aii'l  the  weavers  ol"  that  bazar 
pitied  him. 

"'Here,'  said  they,  you  tuni  the  great  wheel  in- 
dustriously, liui  you  have  no  strenjjih;  ever,'  eight 
minutes  you  must  r(.^l—  the  labor  is  too  hard.  Turn 
the  lathe  of  a  earpenter;  it  is  your  proper  occupa- 
tion.' 

"Thi  lallii'  <if  a  carpenter,  then,  the  little  Musa 
turne(,l,  I'Ul  blmidcred  unhajipily,  because  he  would 
think  of  other  tliin.L:;  . 

'"Al  an\  iMte,'  thi.u;dit  he,  ';  his  earpenter  should 
lui-nhisown  hiiji,  ;  tins  maker  of  ehairs  has  no  need 
of  a  blmd  ehild  ;  t"!'  has  he  not  li is  teeth  and  the  toes 
I  if  liis  left  f<  II  it  .'  \\'h_\-  sin  luld  1  si  r\e  a  man  who  is  too 
laz>'  to  eni])loy  all  the  members  (iod  has  gi\en  him? 
I  will  '^i>  to  ihe  brass-worker;   it  is  surel\-  m\-  place.' 

"In  the  shop  (f  the  i  irass-worker  .Musa  di]i._;eiitK- 
tumi'd  the  wheel,  laborin.L;  trom  earl\-  moiiim^  until 
at  smiset  the  shutters  were  |)Ut  up  and  all  the 
artisans  went  home.  'i"he  apjireiUices  of  the  bazars 
are  na]ipy  mdeed,  li\in_L;  the  lives  of  their  ju  euliar 
labor,  hearing  the  gtissip  of  it,  hopeful  of  risin-  to 
mastcrshi]),  and.  best  of  all,  looking  u]i  fn  un  the  task 
to  v.ateh  the  life  of  the  eit\  passing  b>- ;  but  \"r  this 
blind  .Musa  was  no  distraction,  neither  opp(irtnnit\'. 
It  chanced  one  da\-,  h(n\e\er,  th;;t  a  fragmmt  of 
metal,  llying  out,  woumled  him  in  the  foreluvid,  and 
he  must  give  up  that  oecupatioii,  too. 

117 


f 


' 


(K)  I  \(i    1M)\V  .\     1   ROM     (  i:  K  LS.\  1,  I'M 

'"What  now,'  his  mother  C()iiii)l,niu,l,  'sh,!!!  I  ,1,, 

with  a  hHiid  chilW  like  this?' 

■'  -Musa  walked  out,  feelini^r  his  way  uhnv^  the  walls, 
careful  of  the  h<H,fs  and  teeth  of  the  donkevs  and' 
camels,  and  came  presently  near  the  e..nier"of  the 
Lnni,r  Bazai-,  where,  stran.^ely,  he  was  arrested  l.y 
sweet  tinklin-  sounds.  These  he  had  never  lieard 
bc.fnre— no  music,  as  he  has  inld  mc:  neither  ond  nor 
Ciiuoitii.  lie  sioMd  a.^ainst  the  wall  helow  the  win- 
dow whence  issn-d  the  attracti\e  sounds— with- 
drawn from  the  jnsilin-  and  c.mij)kiint  and  pity  of 
the  street.  vSoon,  enra])tured,  he  issued  from  "this 
i:-eelusion,  and  cauyht  a  p.isser-liy  by  the  robe. 
'"What  is  this.-'  he  demanded. 

'"It  is  a  ciuoHii;  was  the  answer;  and  thereuiion 
the  mail  explained  the  manner  of  its  l)layin.u  and  all 
the  business  of  music. 

'"It  is  e\ident,'  thoti-iit  .Musa.  '(hat  C,<h]  has  !e<l 
Hie  to  this  i)lace  and  entrance.!  nie.  vSurelv,  the  (}o(l 
who  made  me  to  be  born  blind  h  id  ihe  intention  of 
suceorin-  me,  and  havin-  led  mr  t,,  this  accident, 
wishes  that  I  should  continue,  not  a  turner  of  wheels,' 
I'Ut  a  ,^i\-er  of  delij,dit.' 

'' Musa "s  mother  would  hear  nothin.i:  of  this  plan. 
'  What!'  cried  she;  'a  caiiouii  indeed!  Shall  we  -i\e 
a  bear  silk  to  weax'c?' 

"Always  was  this  .answer,  'Shall  we  .^ive  a  bear 
silk  to  weave?'      Xi^ht  and  day  the  samt:  '  Shall  we 


^i\e  a  bear  silk   t. 


'    wra\e; 


,? 


Shall   w 


silk  to  weave.''  until  .Musa  sought  no  more 

IIcS 


e   "ive  a  bear 


L^V 


THE     SHOP     OF     THE      FEZ   PRESSER 


THE    CA  N  t>  L'  ^     A  -^  i-"    'i"  "1^    -^  -^  ''  '■  '' 

"'nut,'  thnuc^hl  he.  'I  will  ask  ("kkI  U'  s.n.l  an 
auj^a'l  wiUi  a  <  u»,';(»,  ami  in  this  way  1  will  surely  i^am 
my  wish.' 

"This  he  (lid.  uii^ht  ami  m^rnin;.,^  and  often  durin,^ 
the  (lav,  1  )(,-(•(  eh inL,'  that  an  an;4el  nii.uht  he  sent  with 
a  anionii;  hut  no  anyJ  eanics  pray  as  hard  as  he 
mi.uht.  It  beeame  his  hahil.  then,  when  in  the 
street,  to  ]iause,  ahsent-inin.ded,  and  strum  the  palm 
ot'  his  kit  hand  with  the  fmirers  ol"  Ids  ri^ht:  and  this 
eurious  oeeupation  never  failed  t..  attraet  attention. 
"'Blind  hoy,"  they  would  ask.  'why  do  y(ju  this 
([ueer  ihin.i^".'' 

"'I  ].l;iy  on  m\  'ftle  anirit)!.'  he  answered;  'it 
is  my  litlli'  L\uii^!ii!.  and  I  I'lay.' 

■■.\l\\a\s  he  w-ail''  answer  in  the  same  words, 
strunimin-  ilu'  palm  of  his  left  hand,  "I  play  on  my 
httle  ca)U'U)!.' 

"One  day  a  lady  lan.udied  elose  at  hand 
"'Little  hoy,'  she  asked,  'what  are  you  doiivj;?' 
'"I  play,'  Mu.>a  answ(.'red.  'on  my  little  L\ii:oiiH.' 
'"But  here,'  s.aid  she.  'is  no  t^iiiiaiu !' 
'"It  is  true,  lady."   he  answered;  'hut   having  no 
raiinntu  T  must  jiretend  to  jiossess  oiU'.' 

"The  lady  lautihcd  then,  and  went  away;  and 
Musa  idled  on,  hut,  returnin--,  was  intereei)ted  l)y 
a  hoy  of  his  nei>j;hhorhood.  who  said: 

'"Make  haste;  there  is  a  surprise  in  store  for  you.' 
"At  the  comer  of  the  bmg  Bazar  they  said; 
'"Go  faster;  you  will  he  mueh  ])lease(l  with  what 
you  lind  at  iK.ime.' 


G  U  1  .\  ( i     DOW  \    |-  li  ( )  M     I  1-:  1<  u  S  A  L  !•:  M 


"Bc•lic•vin,^^  ihi-n,  tlial  ihr  anj^'rl  had  c'(inu\  Musa 
hastciicil;  and  at    home,   indeed,   he   found   has   (irst 

CcUlOll}!. 

■"An  anijel,'  said  he,  'has  limnuhl  it!" 
It  was  this  tale  I  exehaiiL^ed  with  the  youn.i^er  klhi- 
ix.\tia  in  return  tor  sharin;j;  with  ine  the  .uond  (Wv^l  he 
had  done  upuu  the  pitiaMe  estate  of  the  eontented 
man  ot  Danuiscus,  to  whom  Shiek  Mirza's  ri'S])onses 
had  recalled  me  h\-  the  Well  of  Mazaar,  in  I-^^ypt. 


XXII 


TI!F.    WEI.!.    OF    Til!-.    SI..\VK 


^■.1 


TME  Arabs,"  said  the  admirable  Alxxish,  spur- 
ring ti'.e  i:ray  horse  ncan'r,  on  the  road  to 
Bir  el-Abd,  "haw  a  prox'erl):  A  journey  is  as  lon.i; 
as  the  looking  forward  of  him  who  would  l)e  at  his 
destination." 

1  ierein,  to  be  sure,  was  expressed  the  wise  ]);itienee 
of  the  desert:  a  nian  is  as  weary  as  he  is  wishful 
to  l)e  (lone  with  all  travelling-.  But  it  had  been 
hard  riding  that  day  for  aliens — a  broiling  footpace 
thnjugh  the  san<]s  of  Et-Tih — continued,  with  urging, 
since  the  cool  wind  of  dav  i  had  fallen  flat.  More- 
(i\-er,  e.\|)erience  tempers  all  hardship:  who  is  inured 
has  no  feeling. 

"  It  is  true,  as  they  say,"  I  answered,  "that  a  com- 
]ilaining  man  cvu-dles  all  good  cheer;  but  the  Arabs," 
said  I,  (juoting  a  prowrb  I  had  hea.rd  in  Damascus, 
"have  another  wise  saying:  Jle  wh(.)  receives  the 
strokes  is  not  like  him  who  counts  them." 

"Patience,"  he  quoted,  promptly,  "is  from  God." 

I   was  able  to  retort. 

"Patience,  as  the  Arabs  say."  I  answered,  "is 
the  expedient  of  the  man  who  has  no  exptnlient." 

121 


r.  o  I  \  ('.   I)  ( )  w  X   I'  ROM    i  r:  r  v  s  a  l  e  m 

Tlu'  (IraLjiiiiian  lauLiIicd. 

"TIrtc  is  \('I,"  saiil  he,  (lirii(U'ntl\\  "aiii>tlu'r  prnv- 
crb;  A  i;l()(Hii\' I' II  ik  is  a  torci"  ulini,' <  il'  ill,  aaii  a  liri^ht 
face  is  like  ,t,'(M/(l  iiuws." 

It  sc'tans  that  ihc  ilrsrrl  ]ilnl(iso|iIi\-,  currcnl  in 
these  i)r()\iTlis.  is,  al  all  limes  aii'l  withi  mt  r'lmiilaiiU, 
tf)  make  the  hesl  nf  neerssil}'.  1  made  liasle  to 
practise  it. 


Still  was  it  hard  riding;  nor,  search  the  rollinc; 
velluw  waste  as  we  Would,  was  there  anv  ])n)rmse  (it 
an  end.  In  the  lie,L:innin,L^--this  at  the  ;,di)(»mv  Well 
(if  Mazaar — a  caiiiehhenler  of  those  parts  had  at  our 
niountiuL;  said  six  leisurely  houi^s  to  Bir  eh.\I)d;  hut 
hi  liad  proved  a  poor  san^; nine  liai"  ~a  fellow  irrespon- 
siMe,  like  a  child  ]ire\arii.'atin,L;  to  pleasi,'.  We  xwrc 
now  well  forw.irtl  in  ihi'  natuh  hour;  and  a  ra,u,L;i'(l 
])iliirini  from  Tunis,  hound  east  and  _\'et  within  sii^ht, 
had  foretold  three  more  hours  to  watir,  whence  he 
had   conv  ere   was  a   journt'V  of  onlinarv   most 

ai,n"eea] lie ;  the  resources  of  distraction  were  now 

exhausti'd  :  :>iiislafa,  the  camel-driwr,  was  S([ut'ezed 
i]vy  of  his  excellent  and  en^a^inL,'  tales,  and  must, 
said  he,  search  his  riK'iriorx'  in  sleep,  to  continue; 
the  low-sou'^'s  ot'  Rachid  had  failed,  and  he  was 
become  an  un.feeliiiL;  machine.  trud;^Mn;^  ahead,  loins 
ijirt,  a  distrau,L;ht  an  !  most  ucarv  poet;  the  \-oun,L,'er 
klunvaja  and  Tautik,  the  one  hiobhiniL;  on  a  tall  thclul, 
the  <ither  lazily  astride  a  nl■r^■ou^,  raw-mouthed  p(.in\', 
had    tired    of   tuss-and-catch,    even   as    Handed,    the 

I  22 


AT    T  II  !•:    U'l-:  I.I.    Ol"    T  II  i:    SLAVE 


iiHil<  U'crs'  ]i"V,  li.n!  ufDwti  uut  111"  sdTls  witii  rt'coxiT- 
iii;.;  tlir  halls  Uicv  inuri'cd.  OuK'  Ali,  tin  SoudaiK'Sc, 
111  all  mir  ci  nnpain'  aifl  lu'  was  (K'Srrt,  luirn  kept 
tiiiiiSfll"  iK'larhcil  frnin  travelling:,  ami  cninm'il,  la^- 
'/nv^  ln'Iiiivl,  thr  L;ria's  <il'  his  Ih'IdwiI,  her  lips  anil 
li<>s()ni  anu  iws,  whirh  were  nut  li  i  hr  niatclu'il,  it 
sct'iiinl,  in  all  thr  w  iih'  w'l  n^li! 

Ti  1  tlk'  cTrsl  111"  a  hill  anil  ti>  the  crcs'L  nf  a  hill; 
hc\<inil  a  \allry  aivl  tu  a  lar-nlV  riil.^c:  this  hail  hfcn 
iiur  ri. liiiL;  ihv  ila\'  Imii,';  ami  mi\v  I  lancicd  that  wc 
must  Inrcvcr  cnnlinnr  to  crawl  tnwanl  a  nlroatinj^' 
hiiri/.nn,  liki'  fhillR'n  chasiiiL;  the  rainhow.  Tht'  sun 
was  lallini;  lu'himl  a  \  asl  chun'h-wimlMW  ( if  t'l'tud  : 
a  iM  ir;^(.'nus  ci  ili  irin;^',  strraniini;  in  strai^i^ht  lines,  ol" 
cxcrv  ])alf  luK',  I'mni  a  .unry  hnriznn  In  the  snnihn' 
lii.LjluT  sk_\-,  ihi'  whdir  ri'llcclril  in  tlu'  U'IkKt  '^h^-y 
(if  llu'  (-■asl.  I  rrrall  that  in  the  niiilst  nf  the  wcsUtu 
liri.-  was  a  i^liinini,^  Mm  »l-ri'il  licld,  infmitclx'  I'Xleml- 
ini;,  srt'niin.n  nnl  tu  rmif  the  fartluT  saml,  but  ti-  lead 
fpmi  it,  as  bv  a  s^^entK'  iiu'linc,  tu  the  renmtest  ])lac'es 
of  the  heaxenh'  h;^ht,  as  lli(itiL;h  <  iTie  nu;^dil  mount 
fnmi  the  ]i,irehe(l  desert  and  omtiTUU'  ridiiiL;,  U])lifted, 
in  simie  sui)L'rnal  country.  Then,  as  always  at  even- 
in-,  the  sand  was  caqietcd  with  ethereal  rainbow 
hues:  a  billow\'  pri)S])ect,  wide  as  the  sea — the  cok)r 
sulitle  and  ev;inesccnt ;  no  sooner  ])crccivc(l  than 
\-anishcd.  Well,  the  pilLrrim  from  Tunis,  too,  it 
seemed,  had  lied — but  \  et  without  (jtTence  to  us: 
these  tra\-ellin,:^'  t'olk,  on  the  old  road  from  Cairo  to 
tlie  East,  care  nuthini,';  they  do  l)ut  proceed,  cast  to 


C.  Ul.\(;    DOWN    FROM    J  H  R  U  S  A  I,  i:  M 

wrst,  west  tn  (.'nst,  l;ikiiij;  no  ;t("Cii\itit  d  liiiu'  or 
sutVcriniLj.  \Vc  cainr  prtsciitly  to  tlic  crest  of  a  hill  — 
like  any  saiuly  drill  wc  had  hopcfullv  surmounted 
that  day— and  at  our  wry  t'eel,  all  unexpeetedlv, 
lay  Bir  el-A!.d,  the  Well  of  llie  Sla\e,  a  ^'rove  of  tail 
date-palms  ^rowinu  in  a  romid  (iepression,  the  well- 
shaft  risiui;  from  a  circle  of  ancientlv  trampled 
sand. 

Aliine  in  this  vast  waste  and  silmce  was  a  ra,L;,L;ed 
Bedouin,  tillin,^  iiis  i^irl<ic  at  the  11;  and  him  wc 
interro,i,'ated. 

"Whither  bmnd,  kluuiW  I  incjuired. 

The  answer  was  in  a  dry-lip])ed  whisper. 

"I  ha\'e  done  no  wron,^,  khaicaja,"  said  he. 

"We  have  not  come  to  accuse  you,  God  knows!" 
said  I. 

"God  witness!"  he  protested,  "I  am  an  innocent 
man.     I  ha\'e  not  wroni^ed  the  Eni;lisli." 

"Even  So."  I  replied;  "l)ut  is  your  errand  on  this 
road  SO  secret  that  it  may  not  be  known?" 

"Wilhih!"'  he  swore,  "I  ain  but  an  humble  Bed- 
ouin (;f  these  parts,  and  lf)ve  the  English." 

"Whither  bound,  khalil?" 

"  Bcarinti  a  burden  of  flour,  by  the  grace  of  God! 
four  iiours  hence  afoot,"  he  answered,  "to  the  camel- 
herders  of  our  tribe,  who  will  perish  if  I  am  taken." 

"  It  has  grown  dark,"  said  I ;  "  to-night  you  will  eat 
and  rest  with  us,  who  ha\-  ■  and  to  spare." 

"The  klunvaja  is  beneficent,"  he  answered;  "but 
the  tribesmen  are  hungry." 

124 


I 


A       RAGGED       BEDOUIN       FILLING       HIS       GIRBIE 
AT     THE      WELL 


I' 


i 


A  T    TH  i:    W  I-  LI.    ()  I-    Tir  I-     SLA  V  E 

"Ai  <l.iwii,"  I  npjiil,  'to  yinu"  liiirilni  di'  lluur  you 
sliall  aild  a  j^ilt  i>\  rice  ami  tnliacoi." 

hlias,  the  co'ik's  Lny  an  iin])i^li  Christian  of  the 
ut),  iia\iii;4  ilif  ointc'inpl  ot  [hv  Ui\\n  for  these 
desert  durllers — was  imw  si'izrd  of  a  dt\ihsh  ini- 
imlsr;  lie  whfclfd  his  ]i'iny  and  eaiiu-  ehai;-:ii,L;  upon 
thv   urctehcvj    lUdouin. 

■■  There  lie  i>!"  he  screamed.  "That's  the  man 
We're  after!" 

The  Hedouin  t'Mik  to  his  heels.  A  raj.,'^'ed  ahh,i 
flappini.;  like  a  uhipiied  llaL;,  and  he  was  o\er  the  lull 
Letore  the  ,u:ra\-  ]iiiiiy  had  reeowred  I'roni  her  astoii- 
ishnient.  We  elmked  the  lani^hter  of  I-^lias-  it  was 
tlu-  hand  of  tlie  adiinraLle  AIhk.sIi  and  t,'ra\elv 
ehastised  him,  lie  had  seand  a  man  from  llie  well, 
who  inii,'ht  nut  tlu  ii,  ficd  knnws!  have  filled  his 
^irhic.  There  was  n<i  fi.ri.d\i'ness;  e\-ery  Imwl  of  his 
was  like  the  musie  <>(  Damascus.  Satistii'.l  of  pun- 
islimeiit,  we  dispitched  the  hoy  aftiT  the  Bedouin, 
commandin<,'  him  to  retvu-n  with  his  eaptiw  <  <v  Irmself 
miserably  perisli  in  the  wild  desert  like  a  f.^rsaken 
eaniii  leaving'  his  carcass  to  lie  picked  Iiy  vultures 
and  his  hones  to  hk'ach  in  the  sun  and  fri,L;hten  way- 
larin,!^  iiiules.  iMirtunatelw  he  took  us  seriously; 
and  he  was  ])resently  returned  with  the  man,  wlmm 
he  had  oxercome  with  a  Lrihe,  he  ruefully  said,  of 
the  only  hislilik  that  he  had. 


XXITI 

THK    lil.ACk    lUlDoriN 

WHEN  thr  cnuklia.!  worko!  Ihr  evfninc;  miracle 
of  a  talilr  siJfcaM  Ix  )until-illy  in  ilu'  wildarm-ss 
--lliis  sa.mc  'lr\-  waste  l.eini,^  Uio  re.L^ion  wherein  for 
forty  years  tlie  chiMren   <<\    Israel   had   reeeived   the 
manna    <'f    Heaven  -I    wandered    a])ar-t-.      It    was   a 
tender  ni.Ljht,  th*-  dark  Ljently  fallen  U]i(.n  us,  like  a 
soft   blanket   thrown   <i\er   in   lovini^;    wisdom   bv   a 
modier.     The  little  star'   were  out --a  ;j;reat,   clear- 
>lunin;4,  frienddv  multitud.e— peojilini;  the  wide  desert 
itself,  so  that  no  wanderer  mii^ht  justly  ery  himsell 
forsaken  therein;  and  a  younii  moon,  a  .greater  ;j;lorv 
m  the  midst  of  tlu'se  'lear  ennslant  li;-^hts,  had  now 
spread    the    infinite    sands    with    a    mystieal    sheen. 
Here  was  the  frontier  of  realitv;  beyond  the  drawn 
breath    ami   whisperin;^'   and   all   finite  expression  of 
the  tamp'  -tlie  whine  of  Hamed,   who  must  for-^ake 
the  rieedxiwl  to  beat  the  i^ray  mare  from  her  nusehief 
— a  mere  step  bevond,  an('   the  meanin;j;  was  all  at 
onee  departed  from  familiar  eoncejitions;  a  mere  stefi 
—an    ineh   bevond   the   hill-and    of   this  earth  the 
uttermost   remott-ness   from   all   besie.yin;^   perturba- 
tions had  been  attained.      Xo  voiee  was  lifted  in  our 

12  0 


i 


r  H  E    B  L  .\  C  i;    B  [■:  I)  ()  U  I  X 


caiTi]):  men  sjidkr  ilnidst  in  whisiKTS,  as  always,  at 
nijj;lit,  in  Xhv  lU'srrt  a  harsh  cry  there,  it  seemed, 
impossible.  The  muleteers  were  gmuned  Sfjuattini; 
al)out  a  ;4reat  trav  of  rice  by  the  cook's  fire,  each  man 
reachin.L,'  his  han<l  ;.'t  will;  the  \'ouniier  kluiii'ajii  had 
Inline  of!'  to  smoke  to  his  camel,  and  I  ohserwd  now 
that  he  was  s(|uatled  on  the  sand,  idly  puflinii,  and 
that  his  L;ratefnl  beasi,  inhalini,'  eacli  whiff,  would 
stretch  his  neck  for  furlher  Ircatin;.;;  tlu'  cameldioys 
were  liakins^  their  bread  at  a  littk-  lire  set  somewhere 
awav  from  the  cam]),  fi'r  they  counted  theniseh'cs. 
it  seemetk  the  least  anions  us. 

"Ahmed,  take  cart''"  Mustafa  whi^i)cred,  m  shaq) 
warnintj;.     "The  kli  iwijii  is  conu'  to  nbserw  us." 

It  seemc(i  that  Ahmed's  '     ni]  sii])j)ed. 

"  Wcllali!"  groaned  the  sc,  ..  lali/.ed  .Mustafa;  "but 
vou   will  sureb.    yet   ]nit  us  to  shame." 

I  watched  the  small  Ahmed  —a  ra^^eo  little  urclnn 
— knead  the  (lour  and  water  and  fashion  a  threat 
round  flat  cake  of  the  do'iL^'h.  They  scattered  tlie 
embers  i>{  tli(  fire  witli  littU'  sticks,  and  the  ])o\' 
dccftly  de]^osited  his  handiwork  on  the  blai'k  sand; 
whereui)on  thev  co\-t'red  it  with  coals,  l^-esently  it 
niuf.t  lic  turned;  and  in  thi-.  jmiccss  -  Ahnu'd  bein;..; 
new  m;ide  nervous  by  Mustat'a's  interminably  re- 
iterated warnin.Lrs-the  cake  was  let  fall.  They  were 
much  afraid,  I  knew  -;ill  tht'se  desert  folk— of  beini; 
madi'  ridiculous  in  tln'  eyes  of  stran.uers:  but  I  was 
now  fairh'  shocked  b\-  the  outburst  of  t!u'  niild  and 
en;j;ai;inL;  Mustafa  :  lie  t"et(-he'l  the  boy  ;i  heart\-  buffet 

1  .'7 


'   I 


O  0  I  X  G    DOWN    FROM    J  E  R  U  S  A  L  E  M 

— a  fjuick,  cruel  blow — and  cmployal  hiri  toiij^uc  in 
se\"(-TL'r  punishment. 

"  Whv  iloes  he  take  this  so  to  heart?"  I  asked. 

'"He  says,"  AVjoosh  answered,  "that  the  lioy  has 
dislionored  them  forever." 

"Wherein  the  dishonor?" 

"  In  that,  when  \ou  return  to  your  people,  you  will 
say  to  the  whole  world  that  Mustafa,  the  camel- 
driver  of  El  Arish,  eats  l:)adly  baked  bread." 

Wlien,  however,  the  embers  were  raked  a,t;ain  from 
the  cake,  when  the  ashes  and  clin^dnt;;  sand  were 
dusted  away  with  the  rajj;^i^e('  tail  of  Ahmed's  abba,  it 
turned  out  to  Vie  verv  tj;ood  bread  indeed,  relished  V)y 
Mustafa  and  all  who  ate  ;!S  if  iher.'  had  been  no  slij) 
of  tile  hand  at  anv  sta;j;e  of  the  oi)eration;  and  1  think 
that  the  little  Ahmed  did  well  enoui^h — well  encnis^h, 
vou  niav  believe,  in  that  mean  h.^ht,  half  blind  as 
lie  was.  of  what  they  call  the  Egyptian  eye  disease. 
At  anv  rate,  I  do  not  hesitate  to  ])roclaim  that 
Mustafii,  the  cam.el-driver  of  El  Xri.ih,  does  not  eat 
ill-made  bread,  l)Ut  in  every  reSjX'ct  ;j;ood  bn'ad, 
maile  by  the  hands  of  .\hmed,  his  small  relative. 

liamed  and  Rachid  had  by  this  time  j^athered  a 
great  store  of  dry  bushes  for  the  camii-fin',  which 
must  burn  long  that  night;  for,  riding  in  weariness, 
we  had  at  midday  promised  ourselves  a  protraetetl 
recreation.  The  little  blaze  was  now  reaching 
slender  arms  for  the  stars;  and  jiresently,  disposed 
around  it,  muleteers,  camel-drivers,  anil  all,  each 
.according  to  his  station,  we  dis])atched  Rachid  for 

128 


1 


T  HE    BLACK    B  II  I)  O  U  1  N 

the  coffee.  There  had  meanwhile  C(jme  to  the  well 
a  great  dark-skinned  Bedouin,  neither  servile  nor  in 
rags,  V)ut  a  proud  man,  even  richly  clothed  and  clean- 
ly, a  hint  of  contempt  in  his  glance  at  our  array.  I 
did  not  see  his  camel  (he  was  gone  before  dawn), 
nor  needed  to  be  told  that  it  was  a  thclnl  of  breeding. 
The  man  woiild  ride  no  mean  lieast,  to  be  shamed  liy 
it.  I  obser\-ed  that  he  had  mastered  an  overbearing 
but  not  truculent  manner,  and  that  he  now  displayed 
it,  to  save  his  pride  before  travellers  who  journeyed 
with  so  large  a  company.  He  had  coffee  of  us,  how- 
ever, as  all  wayfarers  whom  we  met,  and  was  bidden 
to  the  entertainment  of  our  fire,  as  all  wanderers, 
whether  in  rags  or  silk;  and  choosing  a  station  some- 
thing apart  from  the  muleteers  and  Mustafa's  crew — ■ 
suiting  it,  it  seemed,  to  his  own  notion  of  his  degree 
— he  graxely  squatted  to  listen  to  the  impending 
stories. 

"Whither?"  T    isked. 

"By  God's  Gate,"  he  answered,  shortly. 

I  knew  then  that  he  was  from  the  far  wide  desert 
to  the  east  or  south  of  Damascus,  returning  from 
some  business  in  Egypt.  In  Damascus,  being  asked 
by  the  way,  travellers  to  a  secret  destination  reply 
that  they  go  by  God's  Gate,  and  no  more  is  said; 
it  is  an  accepted  form  of  evasion.  The  Bab  Ulluh 
of  the  city  opens  to  the  great  desert. 


X  X I  \' 

iiAi.i    w  I'l    111     I  n  I.  ii.n.wr     111  I, IS 

H\'.   rccliiu'l   \-il   'TKu-f    C(iiiil'<)r1.,ili!\-  mh   [he  ru,L;s, 
in  I  xiirt;t;iliiin  ni'  ihi-   lir'-l    talr;  ;in'l   Xhv  'Ivivj:^- 
iiiaii     liis  1  It  in,i^  ilu' turn     h:i\'i:T^"  u'luwi'i!  llir  cial  i  in 
his  ;a(/;t;/;/7i',  tuli!  tlir  luUnwiiv^;  st'  <ry  nf  the  \nn]  i>\  \hv 
LcbanDii  liills  tor  iW  uitiTtainnuiit  nf  t!ic  t'l  iin])an_\-, 
"'Hurf    was  oiui',"    Almdsh    lui^an.    "a    loo]   n\    i!u' 
Lebanon  hills  whu  cmtri'il  his  !nl]\-  in  his  liltlc  /.//■/, 
anil  WduLl  licat   ihat   little 'Irutn  until  'lu-  nci,i,'hl>nrs 
were  tiiT'l  (if  the  imisir.      !la\in.L,'  lutii' iu;J;1  himself 
tliat   tra\-el   was  a  salutary  thin;^,  ln'  departed  on  a 
idurnev:  and  tni\ellin:4  far.  he  tame  one  niL^hl  to  a 
d(  .-.ilate  jilaee  in  the  mountains,  where  was  no  house 
to  lie  sien,  hut   oti1\-  a  mill,  sittiate  by  a   tuinlilin,^ 
stream,  for  the  ^j-rindini:  of  corn.      ihit  he  entered  the 
mill.    ha\in;-,'    no    other    sheltir,    and    waN    presentlx- 
aware  ihat  a  :4re,d  hrown  l.ear  was  another  oceupant 
of  the  i>laee.      The  hear,   as  you   ma\'  heliexe,   came 
I^M-owliiiL;-   upon    Half-wit,    and    Half-wit    lied,    to   the 
r.afters,  wltere  in  a  fren/.\-,  thou'^di  clin^-jin,^  no.ie  loo 
securely  to  his  pereh,  he  hetian  to  l)e,at  his  little  /;//>/. 
much  to  the  terror  of  the  bear,   which  scrambled  to 
the  door  and  llierc  be.^an  to  scratch  for  frcedt^m. 

1  .^o 


H  A  I,  I-  -  W  IT    ()  I'    I.  I-:  iiA  \().\     II  I  I.  I.  S 


"■  Ah-ha!"  tlunv^iil  llall-wit, '  if  I  cannot  (.iK.nn  tlu' 
licasl,  si  ,il  I'an  1  i'ri,L!,hUii  liini,'  aii'l  (.<  inlimuil  ti  >  1  iral 
i.n  his  111  tic  tiill. 

"  TluTc    thancol    to    pass    thai     way    a    imilrlt'cr, 

will  iSf   ln'asl    was  1  iWTln;!  in]    willl    WatiT-l  h  .1 1  IrS  t  T' '111 

till'    Dainasius  pMttirirs:  a  fraj^'ik'  loai!,   jH.iMi]    with 
ilil'licultv  I  III  till'  jiae'k  i  it'  any  animal. 

'"Ali-ha!"  Ihiiui^ht  Ius'Iumt  am  I,  a  lorlnrii  nuilc- 
lecr,  lust  in  tlu'  ni,^ht  aiiil  rain;  Imt  I  hear  tlu-  sound 
of  a  iahl  and  am  heartened.  Within  is  some  t\'Sti\- 
ilv.      I  will  o]Hn  till'  door  and  join  ilio  nuTriment.' 

"  Wlierriiiion  he  o[)eiU'd  the  door,  and  the  Imiwn 
hear,  frantii'  now  lieeanse  of  the  drnm-d rum-drum  ot 
the  little  /.;/'/,  d-arued  out.  niueh  to  the  amazement 
and  terror  of  the  muleteer  and  the  muli'.  The  mule, 
indeed,  reared  I'rom  the  heast.  slijipnl  in  the  niud, 
and  fell,  shalterini';  the  Iiunleii  of  waterdmules  he- 
yonil  all  hojie  of  usai.,'e;  then  bolted  like  an  e\'il 
s])irit,  and  was  seen  no  more  that  n;;4ht,  though 
dilij^ent  seareh   was  made. 

"'Rol)l>er  and  tliit'f!'  eried,  the  nmletei'r,  seizinj; 
Half-wit  1)V  the  nape,  'where  are  my  wat.'r-hottles 
and  where  is  mv  mule'  ^'ou  sh.Jl  pay  di-arly  for 
this.  B\-  iiie  l'roi)liet,  I  will  take  yoi.i  to  Damascus 
and  there  optain  iud;..,Mnent  a,L;ainsl  _\'ou!' 

"Nor  would  lu'  wait  one  moment  to  depart,  hut 
made  ;.^ooil  his  'old  on  the  poor  1  la  If-  'it,  and  set  out 
for  the  city  in  the  rain. 

'"It  is  true,"  sit;hed  Half-wit,  as  they  went,  'that 
the  liear  fri;_;litened  \our  mule,  and,  iherefiirc  all  this 

13' 


.  ' 


GO  IXC.    DOWX    FROM    JERUSALEM 

(lania;4c.  1  will  i;i>  with  you  U>  Damascus  U>  hoar 
tlu'  iu(l:^nm"nt  of  the  Cadi,  for  I  am  much  interested 
in  this  intricate  pmMem.  Now,'  said  he,  'which  is 
at  fatilt,  the  nuile  or  the  muleteer,  the  bear  or  the 
poor  Half-wit!*  We  cannot  punish  tlte  bear,  which 
has  escaped  to  the  n-iountains,  nor  yet  the  niule, 
which  was,  of  course,  frii;htened  by  the  bear;  nor  yet 
can  we  ])unish  the  muleteer,  wIkj  opened  the  door  in 
conh('ence.  There  is  nothin,y  for  it,  then,  but  that 
the  Half-wit  must  suffer.' 

"Thev  came  .it  last  to  Damascus,  where  for  his 
inifjuity  Half-wit  was  thrown  into  a  i)rison  most 
vile;  but  while  there  he  lani^uished,  awaitini,^  the 
pleasure  of  the  Cai'i,  there  came  to  him  a  young 
lawvcT  of  the  town,  to  whose  sharp  ears  the  news  of 
this  unprecedented  predicament  had  come.  InLo  the 
care  of  this  man  Plalf-wit  committed  himself,  and 
next  mornin-  went  with  him  to  the  trial  of  the  case, 
at  which  the  lawyer  bc;-:an  at  once  in  accuse  the 
muleteer  in  no  untiualified  way. 

'"You  rascal!'  cried  he,  to  the  astonished  mule- 
tirr,  'where  is  this  man's  trained  bear?  You  un- 
riirhteous,  thievinsjj  scoundrel!  what  have  you  done 
\:\l\\  this  man's  trained  bear?  Are  you  so  heartless,' 
cried  he,  'that  you  W(Xild  separate  these  lo\-ing 
friends?  Will  you  feed  this  man  the  l)read  you  have 
filched  from  him?  \  'ill  you  give  him  the  mctaliks 
he  was  \ised  to  gathering,  or  will  you  cast  him,  for- 
saken and  shred  of  his  dear  companion,  upon  the 
compassion  of  an  unkind  world?' 

132 


i 


HAl,  1--\VIT    OF    I.  !•  B  A  X  ()  .\    H  I  1.  1.  S 

"By  lliis  (Icchimation  the  wisi'  Cuii  (if  Damascus 
was  S(i  iniivc<l  tliat  hv  iniini.''lialcly  l',^\i'  jud^nK'Ut 
ill  fa\'<ir  of  poor  Half-wit. 

"  '  Voii  rascally  imik'li'LT!'  sai'l  lie,  '\<ni  will  ])av 
this  yi Kir  fi Mil  one  tlumsand  piastres  for  llie  loss  "f  his 
trained  liear  or  lie  with  the  rohhers  in  the  d unburns.' 

"  Thi'  muleteer  ])aid  tli'.'  Hah'-wit  tlie  nionev,  .Ljlad 
to  1h'  rid  of  the  diflieulty  at  any  cost;  an<l  Half- wit, 
wear}'  of  travel  in  a  covetous  world,  returned  to  his 
own  town  in  the  Li'hanon  hil's. 

'"I  lived  here  without  a  mct'ilik,'  said  he,  'and 
was  calk''!  a  fool;  l.ut  now  that  I  am  returned  with  a 
fortune  thev  will  respect  mv  wisdom.' 

"And  this,"  Alioosh  concluded,  whiflini:  a  cloud 
of  frai,'rant  smoke  at  the  moon,  "was  indeed  the 
outcome  of  the  matter." 


Ilamed,  thi'  inuktei>r's  hoy,  cast  a  hush  on  the  lire, 
which  had  Inimed  low  durin,^  the  recital  of  this  loUi^ 
tale,  and  a  multitude  of  sparks  went  roaring  toward 
W\v  stars.  "This  same  Half-wit,  hein.iL;  tln-n  in  Da- 
mascus," said  he,  "  was  one  niijht  besought  by  some 
roisterers  to  ilrink. 

"'Come,'  cried  tht  v,  'drink  with  us!' 

"'I  am  but  a  poor  fool,'  said  he. 

'"  Neverlheless,  poor  Half-wit,'  tlu'y  replied, 
'come  drink!' 

'"Vou  drink,'  he  answerei 
what  I  am  already.  W'hv 
drink'"' 


'to  make  yourselves 
therefore,    should     I 


{,()  1  .\(i   DOWN   r  RDM    1 1:  R  USA  i.i:  m 

Tin  re  \v;i>-  ;i  Imrst  ( 't'  lair^hhT  from  tin  omipiiiiy. 
Tlu'  ,in^\uT  was  in-' >n()Unce(l  a  i^'xmI  answ*  r.  lii'Kid, 
the  \iam-  imilruvr's  laic  was  so  warmly  oimnirndnl 
tlial  in  Ur'  llu>h  of  triumph  hv  wouM  inimolialrly 
ha\c  l)r;4un  anotluT,  had  wi  \'usil"  ihr  cook  aii- 
liiipalnl  him.  ■•'riuTc  is  aTiotlur  cxalk'nl  story 
(.oiuTrniii-  this  l!alt'-\vit,"  he  bei^'an;  "Init  as  wi'  arc 
a  ciiinpaiiv  of  MmsIcius  ami  Christians,  I  lu'sitatc 
in  tell  it."  Ih'  was  itnnir.'.ialcly  assured  1>>-  lioth 
parties  that  we  were  neither  Moslems  nor  Christians, 
hut  ftllow- tra\e!ler>.  i>assin;^  in  friendsliip  into 
iv4V])t.  "We  are  a  ei  imj  ian_\-,"  he  insisted,  "  ol 
Moslems  and  Christians,  and  1  hi'sitate  to  tell  this 
tale."  iCNciilually  persn.ded,  h.MweNrr,  that  we 
were,  e\i'rv  "Ue,  pr^ " 'f  ai^ainst  aniiu<isiiy,  in  so  tar 
as  the  mere  tehin;..;  of  tales  was  eoiKH'rned,,  ihe  enok 
(himself  a  Christiani  i>roeeeded:  "  FalliuL^  in  witli  a 
eom]»anv  of  M.ivJrmson  a  Christi.m  fast-day,  llall- 
wit  w.is  aeeosted  with  a  difiieult  iiro'olem,  !or  it  was 
in  ihi'  minds  of  the:~e  men  to  insult  him. 

"•()1.st'r\i-  that  lowdixc-d,  man-y  do;^,  nosin.^  the 
refuse  for  \"i\\  thin:.is  to  eat,'  s.iid  they,  'and  then 
an.swer  us  this:  is  the  do^;  a  edu-i^tian  or  a  Moslem.'' 

"Now,  indeed,  was  Half-wit  fallen  into  a  trap  of 
<!ifru-ult\-  ami  i>i'ri],  '"■  .r  if  he  said  that  the  ilo^j  wa^  a 
Cdn-istia.n  lu'  would  in>ult  his  own  relij^ion,  and  it  he 
s.iid  that  it  was  a  Moslem  he  would  l)e  heaten  lo 
death..  So  he  cU'l-elled.  Ids  wits,  such  as  hj  had,  ami 
presentiv  was  ready  with  the  answer. 

'"1    hav(-    no    opinion    in    this    Tnatter,'    said    he. 

'J4 


i 


II  A  \A-  -  W  IT    Ol'    1.  liBA  .\0.\     II  I  I.  LS 


'  W'lKthrr  Ihr  <\n'^  is  ;i  Cliristian  "V  a  Mnsh-m,  il  is 
liLyoiii]  iiK'  1(1  tell,  lifiiii;  (iiily  a  tmil,  Iml  (  kiiuw  a 
way  (if  (Irlcrniiiiin.i';  ihc  linilh.  It  is  ikiI  a  (lil'licull 
iikIIkhI,  and  as  1  am  iiuuh  inliTostcd  in  llu'  ])nil)l(.'in 
(if  this  (l(i,L,''s  r(.'Ii,i;i(in,  1  slmuld  like  l<i  sec.'  it  trii'd. 
Is  not  this  a  Fridax-'"  \\'r_\-  i^ddd;  it  is  a  I'riday. 
The  day  is  pi^  qiitii  ms  hir  the  trial.  Tlimw  ihc  d(i_i4 
a  ])!('(.'(.•  (if  mi;at.' 

"  Tlu'V  demanded  an  cxplanati' i!i. 

"'It  is  a  fast-dav  df  the  Christians,'  answered 
Half-wit.  '  If  the  dog  eats  the  meat,  he  is  surely  no 
Christian.' " 

There  was  no  raneor  in  the  laughter  whieh  greeted 
the  conclusion  of  the  cook's  excellent  story. 


XXV 


A     DHSl-.K'l'    l)i:i'KCTTVn 


CAMl-:  i.ilk  <■!'  'U'MTl  tiMvrl  ;in(l    camcl-thicvinc;: 
llu'  laiur  an  Ik  .iiwral.k-  occupation  anion.L,'   the 
Hclouins— the    cn\ialilc     achievement,     indeed,    to 
which  the   vonlh  ci  ihe  trihcs  aspire  and  are  taught 
and   hardene.L     Ah.   the   l.hick    Sornhmese   corporal 
t"roni  El  Arish,  th.n  enteitaincd  the  company  !)>•  re- 
lating a  curious  experience,  concerned  witli  the  read- 
ing of  footiirints,   wheri-'in   there  appeared  to  much 
advanla;^'e  a  detective  ol   th^se  i)arts.      "When  the 
camel-droves  were  last  passin;^  over  this  routi'  into 
Iv^vpt   tor  sale,"   said   he,   "four   Bedouins  of  some 
beggarly  trihe  to  the  south  tliieved   ten  of  a   mer- 
chant's  three  hun-ircil    beasts,   the   tiling  being   ac- 
complished in  the  night,  one  day's  journey  from  this 
well.      I'rom  VA  Arish,  in  answer  to  the  man's  cmn- 
plaini,   1   was  sent  with  a  small  company  to  recover 
the  camels;  and    there   went    wuh   us  to  follow  the 
tracks  a   wise  oM   man  jiosscssing  the  knowledge  of 
/'/;;;  t7  uthr.  or  the  science  of  footindnts.  who  is  em- 
ploved  by  the  I-:.iglish  for  ao  other  purpose. 

"•  Here,'  said  the  merchant,  when  we  came  to  his 
encampment,  'are  the  hoof-prints  of  one  of  my  ten 
camels.' 

i3(^ 


A    DESKRT    HE TECTIVE 

"  '  I  obs(.TVt','  said  the  wise  Bt'douin,  '  that  yoti  have 
come  from  El  Hamad,  The  camel  is  a  mak,  not 
vet  two  vears  nld  ;  he  is  afllietfd  in  the  hri'ast,  and 
will  die,  if  hanl  ilri\aii,  wilh.in  threi'  da  vs.  Show  me 
the  traek  i 'f  anotluT;  tluTe  is  no  pmfil  in  fuUdwin;,; 
this,  for  our  seareh  would  er.d  in  the  lli^ht  nt  vult- 
ures.' 

'"How  can  you  know  ihisr''  demanded  the  mer- 
chant. 

"'There  is  no  merit  in  the  ])ower  to  know,'  an- 
swert'd  tiie  stu(h'nt  "i  ihn  cl  athr.  'The  tiling.;  is 
plainlv  written  in  the  saml.' 

"  We  set  out,  tlu'ii,  on  thv  traek  of  a  second  heast; 
and  ha\-in^r  travelled  two  days,  wc-  came  upon  a  y(  mng 
camel,  rising  two  years,  afilicted  in  the  breast,  aban- 
dimed.  and  dvin.^.  For  four  days  more,  the  Bedouin 
beini.;  afoot,  we  followed  the  hoof-prints  of  the  second 
camel;  and  though  some  wind  blew  (but  no  rain 
falling,') — tlaoui^'h  the  stolen  camels  had  been  driven 
deviouslv,  and,  sometimes,  over  travrlled  routes — 
we  eventually  encountere<l  the  \-ery  camel  of  which 
we  were  in  search,  feedini^  with  the  herd  of  this 
begs^'arly  southern  tribe. 

"'This,'  said  the  wise  Bedouin,  'is  one  of  your  ten 
camels;  now  do  you  chouse  out  the  others  for  your- 
self.' 

"  But  the  merchant  was  doubtful. 

'"It  is  true,'  said  he,  'that  this  is  my  cam.el,  for  I 
obser\-e  that  he  is  marked  with  the  wasm  of  the  place 
whence  I  had  him;  but  mv  ten  cameb  are  no  more 


(1  ()  I  \  ( -.    DO \v  X   F  R o  M   J  i:  k  r  S  A  I,  I-  M 

ill, 111  ;i  lliirtulli  ]i,irt  <>(  in\-  thnr  '.uimlrfl,  ;inii  linw 
sti.ill   1  kiiMW  Uinn  il  tlirs   ap'  'm.'   ni.irkc'i'' 

"  ■  Thni,"  sai'l  tlu'  HnlMiu.:,  ■  I  nuisl  aiiswrr  t'^r  \nnr 
licljilfssiu'ss  and   liml   ymir  ran,<.'ls.' 

•■'riuA-  Wrl't  iM'^rlhrr  nil"  the  ilcscrl,  wtuTc  the 
lirpls  <>i  the  tnlifS  Wire  pa^tunn;,^ ,  aiid  tli'Tc  the 
I^'ilduin  Icnkiiv^  I'm-  ii' .  :.\i.uii,  Imt  i  ihsci  \  ni::  nnl\- 
hijof-i)rints  siliH-icd  rii^lil  lirasls,  whirl  ■■•\r'!,  iii- 
,K.,d,  III  lie  tlu'  sImIch  c-mifls,  rarh  liriii.u  m.-rkid 
with  llir  -uUi^nnA  the  \)ln-v  wluiicr  the  iiKi\haiU  had 
thrin.  Il  is  all  a  in\strr\-."  All  ,■(  .niludrd.  "I  do 
not  kiinw  how  he  inaiia-i  d  llu-  ihiii-,  lit'  luld  inr 
il  was  1)\-  nil'  Ills  nf  a  snciuT.  uhuh  imisl  \k-  lauijhl ; 
1)111  lu-  WMuld  III  a  trarh  nu',  thmi!;!!  I  askfd  him." 

"  Tlu'  Bfdt  mills  huvv  a  i>ru\;(.Tl),"  Mustata,  llu- 
cainrl-dri\ar,  lail  in.  "Tlu'V  sa\-;  A  man's  fair  is 
liki'  his  Ifcl." 

•'  1  haw  kiii'wn  a  slu-ik  <>\  [hv  Soudan,"  .Mi  answcr- 
fd,  smarllv,  '■  III  trll  ihr  Irmiicmt'  a  man  fniinhis  foct- 
]irims,  bill  lU'Ncr  lo  ilcscnlii'  thr  K'lr^lh  of  his  beard." 

Mahiiitiiid,  the  liiu  nuilcU'cT,  bursl  (nU  lau,i,'hin.u; 
llu-ii  all  Ihc  otluTS,  ■■lu.^hl  by  AliV  larl   wit. 

"And  I,"  Mustafa  insistrd.  'di.iXi.'  known  a  iioor 
BnlDuin  of  IIk'Si'  ])arls  to  measure  the  stature  and 
wei,uht  of  a  nij^'ht  robber  by  his  traek." 

"That,"  said  Ali,  "is  a  reasonable  thing-- not 
inai;ie." 

Tliey  make  a  mystery  of  this  obscun-  science  of 
footjirints.  It  is,  at  any  rate,  a  marvellous  thin.L;-, 
mereh-  that,  for  e.\ain])le  (and  the  tliini;  is  not  only 


i- 


A   I)  i:si':  u  T   I)  i;t  i:t"i  i  v  i- 


Will  kiumii,  liut  .1  l.miiluir  .■Kriinii'Ii-.lniunti,  ;i  in. in 
>li,.uM  l.c  ,iM.'  t..  Irll  \\li<  luc  .1  i:iiMrl  ( .r  .1  w.iU'li  n  r  - 
wlicllur    Irniii    .it\-   <<y    iiiMniitjin,    s.in.ly    lUsrrt    i.r 

iKinl'l-nttMllUil     U.l>lt         I'V     Ulr     llilpnut     .if    Ills    tivl  . 

tnr  llir  tnuk,  it  must  l.c  Ii'Tiic  in  nnn.l,  is  n.it  sh-rplv 
.h'tinc.l,  iiMt  an  .ueiirab'  mould,  Lul  a  Uiin^  I'lurnd 
and  nilcn  aliimsl  oliliUraUd  l>y  tallin-  sand  and  drill 


ih  t'urtluT  tlian 


ilust.  Tlu'  jxiurr,  ImwrMT,  v;"is  mu 
this;  v\-vu  to  drlirinmin;^  tlu'  wci'^ht  <il  a  tamd's 
load,  his  phvsical  condition,  ulutluT  pursiu'il  or 
mrrcly  in  haste;  aii.i  to  discovcriir^,  from  tlic  toot- 
l^rints  of  a  man.  liis  tril>f,  and  wlu'tluT  he  lias  passiil 
slcallhfully  or  oiRiily  (wlullKr  friend  or  foei. 

There  was  more  talk  of  lliis,  with  ihese  sniij-le 
folk,  now  drawn  nearer  the  lire,  list-nin-  in  awe,  as 
ti.a'^host  stor\-.  Tlieii  one  of  the  eamels  the  seven 
were  lyin:4  just  l.eyoiK.  the  cirele  of  fireli^lit  rose 
complainini:.  Mustafa's  Ahmed  slipi)ed  away  upon 
his  dutv.  I'lvsently  I  licard  his  i^uttural  eawin;^  to 
i;et  the  cainrl  a.^ain  to  n^t  ;  but  the  hcast  wou]<l 
not  down,  and  must  be  beaten-  the  boy  nieanwluk' 
ir.outhin.u  s^reat  curses.  I  wandered  that  a  bem^'  so 
small  should  without  peril  to  himself  strike  a  creat 
urc  like  this  with  his  fist,  contintiin^  all  the  time 
within  reach  of  teeth  and  hoofs. 

■•  I  will  tell  the  Wunea/./."  replic.l  Mustafa,  "a  most 
curiotis  and  interesting  Ihintj  about  this." 

Ahmed  had  mastered   the  camel,  antl   now  came 
to  hi'j  place. 

169 


[l   1 


G  O  I  X  G    DOW  X    i^  R  O  M    J  E  R  U  S  A  L  E  M 

''Thf  kh(i-.i\iia  lias  ubscrvnl."  Mustafa  omtinueil, 
"that  a  cliild  may  heat  and  coinn^and  a  camel.  It 
is  not  because  the  camel  is  stu])id,  nor  yet  l)ecause 
he  is  timid;  it  is  because  of  a  wise  provision  whereby 
God  suited  hitn  to  the  weakness  of  men.  The  camel's 
eves  are  like  maL;nifyinij;-glasses,  atid  increase  the 
statun.^  of  uis  master  st'ven  times:  wherefore  he  is 
obedient  to  this  (jiiZantie-ai^pearint^  creature." 

In  Damascus,  too,  I  heard  this  supeistition. 


The  i/rave  Beilouin  from  beyond  Damascus,  who 
had  listened  with  risin,c;  interest  and  s:^eniality,  now- 
contril)uted  S(nnethin,i^  to  the  instruction  of  the  com- 
pany, as  if  wishiii^  to  liear  himself  like  a  man  in  the 
eveniuL^'s  entt.'rtainnient.  She-eanie''s,  he  said,  are 
foster-mothers  to  the  mares  f>f  the  desert  where  he 
dwelt.  A  mare,  said  he.  is  the  ehiefest  possession  of 
the  sheik,  and  also  his  most  troublesome  burdt^n; 
and  a  sheik  with  a  wife  in  addition,  as  the  pro\-erb 
has  it,  lives  to  re^jret  hi^  riches,  beint!;  much  woiried 
by  the  ills  of  both  these  delicate  crea.tuies.  Lackin,^ 
S^'rass,  the  sheik's  horse  is  not  sustamed  by  the  desert 
herbs  and  bushes,  upon  which  the  camel  thrives — 
not  ;4reen  and  succulent  fodder,  but  a  jjrowth  dry  and 
grav  and  often  thorny.  The  horse  must  be  fed  with 
milk,  which  she  drinks  with  impatient  relish,  so  that 
to  foster  everv  desert  rnare  is  assiijnefl  a  milch-camel. 
\Vhen  the  camels  l;o  to  farther  ]"iastura<j;e,  the  horse 
must  accompany  them;  and  upon  loni,^  journeys  cam- 
els must  be  taken,  not  onl\-  to  provide  milk,  but  to 

140 


A    ! )  E  S  !■:  R  T    D  E  T  E  C  T  I  \'  E 


bcrir  water  as  \w\\.  a  canicl's-loai]  <  if  watiT  sufficiiv^ 
liic  horse,  il  is  sai'l,  fnr  Iml  l\v<i  days.  The  sheik's 
satisfactiiiii,  h<)\ve\er,  is  an  ailequate  c(im]iensati< 'H. 
It  rcsiiks  iiwt  onlv  in  tlie  jiri^le  i>f  jxissession.  l)Ut  in 
a  mure  pactieal  ami  \v(irlh\-  IhinL'  -security  and 
t^reater  elticiency  in  warfare.  The  camel  is  a  stuji'.d, 
hmiberipjj;,  slov,  ni<i\'in!^  heast;  the  mare  is  botli 
i^allant  and  clever,  quick  t<>  wheel,  ready  to  charge, 
swift  in  retreat  thnnrjjh  sliort  distances.  A  sheik 
.^oes  to  battle  with  a  led  mare,  which  he  will  not  have 
burdened  evon  with  his  armi>r;  he  motmts  her  only 
when  the  en;j;a>:;ement  is  imminent — the  enemy  in 
view,  steel  harness  ])Ut  on  in  t1ie  ancient  tashion,  the 
ancient   wca})on,  swordi  or  lon,:^^  S])ear,  ready  1o  the 


umu 


I         I 


XXVI 


THE    MACU'AI.    MATCH 

THE  informini:;  recital  of  thr  iimvc  Bedouin,  to 
whicli  \hv  comi)any  had  listcnol  with  deepest 
attention,  was  now  suddenly  interrupti'd  by  the 
janj^lin*,^  nf  ;t  mule's  bell  and  a  .^reat  hullabaloo.  Our 
eirele  broke  and  sjiread  lau;j;hin:j;  iVoni  the  fire;  and 
into  the  liij;ht  sjirang  a  small  tii^ure,  \cA  by  a  halter 
in  the  hands  of  Rachid,  and  wearin,:^'  a  irreat  ablui  of 
sheejjskin  ii\erhead  aaid  a  bell  about  the    ieek. 

"What's  this'"  Aboosh  demanded. 

"It  is  the  Half-wit  of  the  Leban<ni  hills,"  cried 
Rachid,  ■'eome  to  entertain  the  klbii.'aji!  with  his 
trained  bear!" 

IVoceeded  then  this  hilarious  entertainment,  to 
tile  accom])animent  of  such  a  joyous  noise  of  bell  and 
shoutin<,'  and  lau;j,hter  as  had  ne\-er  bt'fore.  I  fancy, 
amazed  the  solemn  desert  of  those  ])arts.  "  La,  la!" 
sanir  Rachid;  and  Ahmed,  the  canicbboy,  reared 
arid  danced  and  tumbled  tmtil  he  was  breathless, 
whereupon  he  stood  on  his  head,  his  lean,  vilceruted 
little  le,us  stickir.ii  straitzht  '■{>  in  the  hreli.^ht.  Ik- 
was  itrest'utly  standini:;  before  the  kJurwdi^i,  cryin;;,% 
'■  Bihhslursh!  backsheesh'"  but.  therewith  provided, 

142 


Tim    MAGICAL    MATCH 


still  remained,  cruvini,^  (as  he  said)  a  boon.  "  Yester- 
day," he  besought,  "when  the  U'auxijj,  ridini;  his 
liorse,  passed  the  canieis  in  the  mid -<.l.iy  Ileal,  and  the 
eamel-boys  were  worn,  each  boy  clnigirisj;  U,  the  t;iil 
of  liis  camel,  the  khawaja  rode  slowly  to  <"onverse. 
The  IJiawaja  will  remember  because  he  laughed  when 
the  red  rooster  crowed  in  the  crate  on  the  back  ot 
my  camel.  '  .\re  ynu  nnt  tired?'  said  the  k>  7.\ija. 
I  answered,  'I  am  not  tired.'  'You  ha.^  walked 
far  in  the  sand,'  said  he;  'are  you  not  tired?'  I  an- 
swered again,  'I  am  not  tired.'  F'or  the  third  time 
the  klnni\i]\:  ]>ut  tlu'  qui'Stion,  and  for  the  third  time 
1  answen'd,  'I  am  not  tired.'  'For  this  cheerful 
behaxior,'  said  the  hhnuaja,  'I  will  once  again  vork 
the  magic  of  the  match  v.hcn  the  <lay's  journey  is 
owr.'  But  the  kJhih\iiti  forgot;  and  now  has  come 
till'  second  night,  and  he  has  still  forgotten." 

I'ortunati'ly,  tin-  imkind  h  irget  fulness  was  not 
hard  to  remedy;  the  klia.raJLi  gathered  them  all  near, 
and  lurnid  gra\'e  and  (Hstant ,  and  smoothed  tln'  sand, 
all  ill  i)ri'])ani1  ion  for  the  magical  feat  of  The  Match 
That  Cannot  Uv  Broken.  The  desert  had  by  dus 
time  retmv.cd  to  its  ancii'ut  solemnity — a  silence  so 
dei'p  and  wide  and  old  diat  the  small  crackling  of 
the  lire  was  like  an  irn'ligious  dist  jrbance. 

"A  luciid'',"  promised  the  A7/<;;ci;ya,  "to  the  one 
who  surprises  the  secret." 

The  attention  was  tr.igically  earnest. 

"Now,"  the  khiia'tihi  oegan,  Aboosh  interpreting 
the  patter  as  fa'-t  as  it  fell  from  the  khamij^i's  lii'S, 

14.1 


tW >  I  X  C.     f )  ()  \V  N    F  R  ()  M    J  E  R  U  S  A  L  E  M 


h  i 


"  I  ii,i\c  hero  a  handkerchief.  The  cws  of  the  clever 
Ahmcil  will  tell  him  that  it  is  an  empty  hanilkerchief. 
Observe,  Ahnied,  that  I  shake  it.  I  lake  it  l)y  the 
ciirners,  Ahmed,  and  shake  it.  I  sliow  you  this  side 
—  1  show  vou  the  other.  And  now,  haviii<(  con- 
vinced you  that  the  handkerchief  is  empty,  I  spread 
it  f)n  the  s.ind,  here  in  the  wry  brii^htest  of  the  fire- 
lii,dit.  Keep  watch.  A  }}U'iidi  tf>  the  dili<;cnt  ob- 
server!  Mahnmud  will  i^dxe  me  a  match.  Ahmeil 
will  hims<.'lf  take  the  match  in  his  very  own  hand.s 
and  disci '\cr  that  il  is  a  match  like  any  other  match. 
Ill'  will  with  this  ]>encil  mark  the  match  with  some 
'u\}sm  of  his  own  invention.  But  the  kluuViija 
touches  the  match-  keep  watch!  -ano  it  i;;  strai.L^ht- 
way  become  the  magical  match  that  cannot  be 
broken.  1  driiji  the  maj^ical  match  u])on  the  ma}j;ical 
handkerchief.  It  is  the  st'lf-same  match.  It  is  the 
si'lf-saine  handkcrchit'f.  Dbserw  rnv  hands;  they 
are  cm])ty.  Kee]>  watch — a  Viiciidi  to  the  dilitjent 
observer.  I  roll  u])  my  sleeves.  There  is  still  noth- 
in,a;  in  my  hands.  I  fold  this  corner  of  the  hand- 
kerchief over  the  tnatch.  I  fold  another — and  the 
third,  ami  the  fourth.  And  now  Ahmed  will  with 
Ids  own  liands  find  the  match  in  the  folds  of  the 
handkerchief  and  lircak  it  in  halves.  Listen!  The 
tnaii;ical  match  is  broken.  You  have  heard  il  crack 
between  the  finders  <if  Ahmed.  But  it  is  a  magical 
match;  and,  behol<l !  I  unfoM  thi'  handkerchief,  and 
th('  maeical  match,  marked  with  the  ivasm  of  Ahmicd, 
done  with  his  very  own  hands  and  of  his  very  own 

144 


THE    MAGICAL    MATCH 

iin'cntion,  is  not  broken:  nor  is  therr  anotlior  match 
anywhiTc  to  be  discovered!     It  is  a  mystery!" 

"A  dovil-match!"  ejaculated  tlie  grave  Bedouin, 
starting  liack  in  religious  horrf)r. 

"Wcllah!"  groanetl  Mahmoud,  "I  am  In  iovilled 
again!" 

The  others  were  amazed  beyond  utterance  of  any 
sort — -save  this  little  Ahmed,  who  emitted  what  may 
be  likened  to  a  gurgle  of  delicious  fright.  The  second 
match,  of  course — the  match  which  Ahmed  had 
liroken — was  concealed  in  the  hem  of  the  hand- 
kerchief; but  not  one  of  them  fathomed  the  simple 
mystery,  which  was  alwa\s  to  them  a  bewildering 
delight.  Xor  in  a  coffee-house  in  Damascus,  n-hcre 
tile  kliaii'iiia  i)erf(irmed  tlir  wonder,  late  of  a  night 
before  tlu-  ])ilgrimag(\  did  these  wiser  folk  ha\e  Ix'tter 
success.  "Why  go  to  .Mi'cca.'"  said  a  ])ious  camel- 
driver  of  the  pilgrims;  "for  ha\-e  we  not  here  a 
I^rophet  ?" 


"A  feat!"  cried  Mustafa.  "I,  too,  will  perform 
a  feat!" 

We  made  a  ring  in  the  moonlight — and  fell  siknt 
and  watchful  while  the  old  fellow  gra^•e]v  wound 
his  skirt  about  his  middle.  An  athletic  performance 
— evidently  some  mighty  acrobatic  feat  of  the  desert! 

"Observe!"  said  .Mustafa. 

Our  attention  deepened;  and  Ahistafa — having 
bowefl  with  much  politeness  to  the  company — 
turned  a  somersault! 

MS 


(;()i.\(;  Dowv   I'koM    |i;ri's.\i.bm 

"CaU'h  nu!"  sliDuted  the  y<nm,m.'r  khu'iCititi.  IIcit 
was  a  hmiiliar  i^miiic;  the  challenge,  though  siK.km 
in  I'viiijHsli,  iR'fcli'd  iiM  interpretation.  They  reached 
to  seize  hini;  hut  the  xount^er  klunvaja  leaped  frntn 
the  quick  hands  of  the  \)V^  muleteiT,  dodged  thi'  eat- 
springof  the  Soudanese,  hulti  ted  Alioosh,  overturned 
the  Heilouiii,  and  darted  nff  into  the  nioonhght  with 
a  wlioop  hke  a  shriek  of  a  disappearing  locomotive. 
They  were  after  him  in  a  tlash— a  yelping,  giggling, 
hallooing,  guffawing  pac-k,  leaping  over  the  moonlit 
sand  like  shadows  with  half-fledged  wings.  Wcllah! 
Imt  the  loosed  (k'light  of  that  pursuit — the  triumph 
of  the  capture!  Then  must  the  lleet  AH  be  caught, 
the  l)lack,  lean-le;,!ged  Soui'anese,  which  was  not  hard 
1o  do  at  all,  for  at  the  barest  touch  he  screameti  and 
collapsed  like  a  tickled  girl.  The  younger  kha'u'aiu 
must  take  Ahiricd  on  his  shoulders,  ai  1  the  small 
Abdullah  lie  mounted  on  the  gigantic  Mahmoud ; 
wh.ereupon,  a  Ii\"eiy  tilting,  done  without  mercy — 
ending  in  the  downfall  of  both.  Rmg-around-a-rosy 
— and  the  ilesert  fairly  groaned  from  the  \'igor  of  the 
sfjuatting!  Bull-in-the-ring — a  mad  success!  Crack- 
the-whip — and  the  climax  of  earthly  joy  was  achiev- 
ed. \Vc  put  the  camel-boys  on  the  end  of  the  line; 
we  sent  them  tumbling  head  over  heels  -niUing  Ovcr 
the  soft  sand  like  rag  balls— far  into  the  farther 
moonlight.  WclLih!  but  they  would  be  cracked 
again.  By  the  Prophet!  the  thing  must  be  done. 
And  we  cracked  them  with  such  i(^yous  fervor  that 
we  never  expected  to  sc-e  ihem  more. 

i4(> 


^" 


the;  grave  beoouin  departed 


f.    I 


THE    MAC.ICAI.    MATCH 

In  the  ui)roar  of  lauKhU-r  I  imt  inv  liaiid  on  thr 
shouMcr  <)1  Ahnir.!.      "Ar'  you  ;iai)i)y.'"  1  askci. 

"I5y  Go<i!"  1k'  swore,  his  haixls  clirKhr.!  with 
earnestness,  "Imt  I  am  hap])v!" 

Mustafa  damore.l  to  t.e  eraeked- for  the  very  joy 
sai.l  he,  i,i  this  swift  fh^ht.  \\\.  in<Iul.L,H<i  Mustafa; 
we  put  Ahistafa  where  lie  craved  to  he,  and  we  -rip- 
\m\  hands  with  a  new  and  mi.^htier  ^'rip,  and  we  ran 
faster,  ant'  farther,  and  \w  turned  more  ahru])t!y, 
and  we  cracked  the  old  .gentleman  clean  out  of  si^'ht 
over  the  riili^e  of  a  sand-drift. 

"By  Mohammed!"  he  screamed,  rcturnin.^;  "hut 
there  is  a  deep  hole  in  the  desert  where  I  ahVhtnl!" 

And  with  this  the  eveninj^'s  tntertainnient  came 
to  an  enu. 

It  was  time  to  turn  in.  The  j:;rave  Bedoum  had 
departed  upon  his  journey,  ha\inj.^  i^iven  i-.s  farewell 
with  many  complin.ents.  The  camp  had  disposed 
itself  to  sleep.  The  fire  was  burned  out.  All  the 
desert  lay  silent  un<ler  the  tr  )on.  There  was  no 
rustle  of  the  pahn  leaves,  no  chirp  or  stirrinj^  any- 
where; the  whole  world— to  its  uttermost  reaches- 
was^  still.  1  walked  with  the  youn,i?er  khawaja  to 
smoke  to  the  camels— the  last  employment  of  our 
da>'.  Presently  he  looked  about  upon  the  forms  of 
our  people  and  guest  of  the  ni,^ht. 

"These  fellows  are  hapjjy,"  said  he.      "I  think," 
Ik'  added,  "that  we  have  found  a  i^'ood  way  n)  tra\el." 

i  thought  so  to(). 

'47 


XXVII 


I 


A  \vni;-ni;c.()\H  pof.t 

TllF.Rl^  came,  i>ncr,  a  thick,  hot  ilawn:  no  rosy 
culi.r  in  tlic  cast  -no  codl  tint  nr  stirring  of  the 
air.  Wlio  liad  been  usdl  to  the  refreshment  and 
chi'erful  expectation  of  the  morning  had  now  no 
spirit  f<ir  the  road.  We  lahored  into  a  salt-marsh, 
most  foul  and  desolati',  a  dreary  place,  lyin>4dead 
under  a  sullen  sky:  slimy  pools,  listless  rushes,  a 
ervtst  of  sallv  nnul,  throu;4i  which  our  horses  lloun- 
dered,  l)rcakin;4  nowand  ai^ain  to  their  hellies.  When 
we  came  airain  to  the  sand,  a  breeze  was  hlo'vint,' 
from  the  east,  but  Lrou.uht  no  relief,  beini;  hot  and 
dry,  as  from  an  oven.  It  rose  (juiekly  to  a  t^^alc  of 
wiml.  The  air  was  all  at  once  dusty  and  unpalatable; 
th''  encompassing  hills  disap])eared  in  a  mist  ot 
driv(.'n  sand  —the  road  vanishe*!  beneath  out  feet. 

Presently,  the  wind  still  risint,',  there  was  not  a 
hoof-])rint  to  be  descried;  the  desert  was  trackless: 
we  were  hajilessly  — even  ])erilously— lost.  The  m  )ise 
of  the  i^alc — a  swish  and  shriekini;,  as  at  sea— was  a 
eonfusin.g  eommotion,  and  the  llyint,^  sand  choked 
aad  stunp  an<l  blinded  us.  There  was  nothin.g  t  •  be 
seen  in  the  fo;^  ,,f  dust  but  the  nearer  hills — smoking 

148 


A    \\()i:- B  E(;()  X  E    POET 

like  crcstol  seas  in  a  hurrii'anr — wliiili  llu'  wiml  was 
shaping  aiR'W.  For  iMurs  wr  waiidrnd  wrslwanl, 
ur^itiL,'  the  lurvdus,  omiplaiiiini,'  hrasls  in  thi.'  diivc- 
tittn  of  water,  wliich  wc  iiiiKlit  ti"t  liopc  to  find,  since 
at  best  the  well  was  no  more  than  a  speck  in  tliat 
wiMi-rness. 

In  the  late  afternoon  we  sta^j^ered  by  chance  into 
a  deep  ;^nilly,  with  the  wind  houlini:;  oxerliead;  and 
in  tliis  sheltered  sjiot  Alioosh  f.  >un(;  the  hoof-prints  of 
the  road — faintest  depressions,  almost  olditerated  by 
fine  sand  sifting  fr<>"i  above  IK  it,  too — .and  to  our 
amazement —wt'  encountered  a  Mecca  pilgrim,  (;n 
his  haunchi'S,  his  head  wra])i)rd  in  a  iiiaiule,  waiting 
with  religious  patience  for  the  storm  to  pass.  The 
wind  fell  then,  and  the  hea\-y  sand-fog  immediately 
settled;  and  following  the  pilgrim's  directions  (he 
had  cf)me  from  Kantara)— deijcnding  some'vhat,  too, 
upon  the  configuration  of  the  desert  for  giudance — 
we  came,  by  happy  fortune,  to  the  well  oi  Googaa 
long  after  sunset 


I  caught  Rachid  sitting  worn  and  downcast  at  the 
edge  of  the  palm  grove,  aixirt  from  the  tents. 

"Here,"  sai<l  1,  "is  a  disconsolate  adventurer!" 

"  We  draw  near  the  end  of  our  journey,"  he  replied, 
"and  1  think  of  a  misfortune  that  has  befallen  me." 

"Of  what  did  you  think  when  the  sand  was  l)low- 
ing  and  we  were  lost.'" 

"  Of  the  goodness  of  AlKiosh,  the  excellent  khauvja, 
who  gave  me  his  horse  to  ride." 

My 


MICROCOPY    RESOLUTION    TEST    CHART 

ANSI  ond  ISO  TEST  CHART  No    2, 


1.0 


I.I 


:  m 


II  2.5 

I  2.2 

2.0 
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1.25 


1.4 


1.6 


-=     APPLIED  INA^GE     Inc 


(716)   *82  -  0300  -  Phone 


(.  ( J  I  X  ( j    DO  \V  X    F  ROM    j  E  R  U  S  A  I.  E  M 


'f 


"  ( )t'  ni)thin;4  else?" 

"Slill,"  ht'  rcpliol,  "of  my  misfnrlunc.  1  am  like- 
the  pious  Mwhammnian  who  praycil  air  one  luin- 
(hxvi  pii'Ci-'S  of  .U'olil,"  lu-  ]  >ri  R  I.  (.'I  let  I .  "  Ilr  coiicuiwi! 
himself  to  lie  of  that  (jualit_\-  of  lioline/s  which  opens 
the  heart  of  Goil  to  ever_\-  prawr. 

■"1  desire,'  said  he,  'one  lumdreil  pieces  of  i^niM; 
wherefore  1  will  pray  for  it,  and  presently  I  shall 
receive  the  '^\il  >  if  ewrx'  piiistrc' 

"ThereuiKin  he  prayed  both  ni.Ljhl  and  day,  lie- 
seechiiii,'  with  dili.^eiice,  lait  received  no  ijift  of  gold 
f n mi   lleaxen. 

'"I  will  not  desiiair,'  said  he;  'still  will  1  continue 
to  pra\-,  and,  cwtitually  my  piety  shall  lie  rewarded.' 

"  For  a  vear,  it  is  related,  his  ])raver  ascended  con- 
tinuouslv;  and  liy  this  time,  so  constant  had  he  lieeii, 
the  habit  of  ])ravin;4  f<  ir  oni'  hundred  ])ieces  ot  gdld 
possessed  him  so  that  he  praved  uj^oti  e\ery  occa- 
sion, '()  i.ord,  send  me  one  hundred  ])ieci.'S  of  gold!' 
Tio  matter  where  he  mi^L^lil  be.  One  da\',  sitting  in 
the  shade  of  a  liigh  wall,  hv  besought  the  Lord,  as 
was  his  custom.  cr\-ing:  '()  ivonl,  giw  me  one  hun- 
dred pieces  of  go](ll  ()  Lord,  send  me  one  hundred 
l)ieces  of  gold  from  llea\-enl'  Listead  of  (Hie  hun- 
dred pieces  of  goM  falling  fmm  the  hea\ens,  the  wall, 
in  the  shade  of  which  he  rested,  tumbled  down  upon 
this  pious  Mohammedmi:  whereu])on,  as  it  is  related, 
he  got  up  from  the  dust,  and,  haxing  lifted  his  hands 
to  the  skv,  cried,  in  great  inddgnation  : 

for  one  hundred   pieces  ot   gold,  and 


nra\eil 


A  u  u  li^  B  i:(i()  .\  !•:  i'(j  1':t 


h;;\c  been  oN'tTcome  l)y  tlu'  descent  <>!'  nnr  hu'^ircd 
cruellv  fallini:;  l')ricks  frnm  llu'  wall  thai  I  ln;.>tc(l; 
therefore  I  will  ne\er  ])ray  ai^'ain.' 

"Does  the  klhra'dja  recall  the  shore  of  the  sea  lU'ar 
El  Arish,"  Raehid  continued,  "where  the  tenls  wt're 
jMtched  1)>-  the  date-palms,  and  the  khah'djii  drank 
tea  bv  the  ver\-  wax'es,  where  ids  poor  servant  had 
placed  the  little  table'  Ah,  but  I  wished  that  we 
nnu'ht  tra\t'!  the  desert  no  jcmuer,  but  forevir  stay 
near  the  sim  ;  and  I  prayed  nmst  dilij^a^ntly  for  one 
thousand  ,uolil  napoleoi  s.  so  that  I  initiht  forever 
maintain  the  khaiCiiia  and  all  his  ser\ants  in  that 
]ilace.  I  am  like  llu'  ]H)or  pious  M  ihanmiedan  of 
ttie  fade,"  he  continued  ;"  for.  thou,L;h  1  prayed  lustily 
for  the  ijold,  when  I  went  into  the  water  t<>  wash  the 
shell  of  the  tortoise  whiclt  the  yountjer  klia:i.'aia  had 
<^iven  to  the  cook  to  boil  clean,  not  only  did  I  fmd 
no  p\u"se  of  _uold  on  the  shi  ire.  Init  lost  the  three 
coi^iier  Ihshli'.'s  that  I  had.  which  sli])i)ed  through  a 
hole  in  my  ])ocki-t." 

"  It  is  a  grave  misfortune."  said  1. 

"  Xow,"  he  added,  looking  u]).  a  wiK^diegnne  poet, 
indi'ed.  "  I  am  come  near  a  strange  city,  and  have  not 
a  lucLillih  to  my  name." 

"Conud"  said  1  ;  "ha\'e  vou  not  lii'ard  the  story  of 
The  Diligent  Young  Darwish  n\  Al  Husra?" 

Raehid  looked  up  in  cheerful  expectation. 


XXVUl 


THE   dili(;k\t  yol'nc   dakwish   of  AI.   HL'SRA 


THIS  story  1  ha.l  I'n.ni  Ahnicl  Asc.l-L'lhih,  of 
Damascus.  Ihc  writtr  of  strolls.  Froni  liis  col- 
lection of  niaslcr])icccs  he  IkkI  t.ikcn  an  example  of 
the  art  of  Al  i-^mad  al  Ihisani  Shiraz  -a  sentence  done 
with  a  rceil  ])en  upon  i)archnv.  nt.  "  As  all  words  are 
equally  im]>ortant  to  the  expression  of  the  ])erfect 
poet,"  said  he.  "  so  lure,  too.  by  the  art  of  the  perfect 
writer,  no  word  is  exalted  above  another  by  improper 
display.  Even  so,  there  is  no  monotony — an  en- 
gaging, restful  variety,  indeed,  such  as  the  printing- 
press  cannot  command.  Em])loy  this  microscope: 
discover  if  y<m  can  a  ragged  edge  to  any  letter — the 
broadest  shading,  the  thinnest  line.  What  a  jien- 
maker  the  man  was!  With  what  incredible  accuracy 
he  shajied  his  reeds!  Note  the  grace  of  curve,  the 
certainty  of  line;  there  is  no  interruption,  no  failure  of 
svmmetrv,  no  dex'iation,  no  sign  of  wavering.  This 
letter,  e.xtremelv  removi'd  from  a  similar  character, 
Init  not  differing  a  hair's  -  breadth!  This  broken 
oval— perfected  by  an  imaginar\  line!  Thi^  arc,  a 
mere  fragment  of  ihc  whole,  but  yet  suggesting  the 
perfect  circle!     This  accent,  perfectly  set  within  its 

152 


AHMEO       A-ED  ULLAH       1  H !:      V.RITER      OT       SCrJOLL; 


Till'     YOVSC,    DARWISH    OF    A  L    BTSRA 


alldtti'il  si)aci'--"     And  llic  oM  man  raUk^J  on  until 
his  breath  taik-d. 

1  askfd  liini  whcncr  he  had  the  ancient  scrap  of 
writing. 

"  \\V  liave  in  Damascus  a  ])r()vcrl),"  hi-  answered: 
"He  who  seeks  with  diligence  shall  find.  I  will  an- 
swer yc^ur  question  Ijv  telling  a  storv.  A  young 
Darwish  of  Al  Busra,  having  come  to  D,amascus 
upon  some  pilgrimage,  fell  in  love  with  the  daughter 
of  a  rich  sheik,  whom  he  y)assed  in  the  street.  Over- 
come by  passion,  he  followed  the  girl  to  her  father's 
house,  where,  bold  beyond  belief,  he  knocked  on 
the  gate,  and  was  presently  admitted  to  the  sheik's 
presence. 

"'I  have  come,'  said  he,  'to  ask  the  hand  of  vour 
daughter.' 

"The  sheik  laughed  heartily. 

"  ■  He  who  would  have  the  hand  of  my  daugh- 
ter,' he  replied,  'must  bring  rich  gifts  to  urge  his 
suit.' 

"By  this  scornful  behavior  the  poor  Darwish  of 
Al  Bursa  was  not  discouraged,  but  with  good  heart 
asked  the  (juality  of  +he  gift  he  must  offer.  To  be 
rid  of  him  the  sheik  set  him  an  impossible  task. 

'"Fetch  to  me,'  said  he,  'the  stone  that  is  more 
precious  than  diamonds.' 

"To  this  the  Darwish  agreed,  and,  having  borrow- 
ed two  buckets  from  the  kitch"n.  set  out  upon  his 
quest,  followed  by  the  laughter  of  the  sheik  and  all 
his  servants.     When  he  had  traversed  the  desert  to 

'53 


G  n  I  X  G   n  o  \v  X   f  i<  o  m  j  e  r  u  s  a  l  f.  m 

till'  soulh,  he  CMI11C  ;i1  last  !■•  tlu'  Knl  Sea,  when  lor 
t  wi  1  nmnths  he  dili.m'iilK'  t'lii]!!!  ivnl  his  Inkkils,  lie- 
lic'viiii;  llial  a  sliiiic  of  ricli  ]  rii'c  nmst  In-  dimply 
hiilili'ii.  Mail  as  he  iniL;hl,  \\v  inadf  iio  iniprcssinn 
u])on  ihc  sra,  InU  i-i  intiiuuil  jiatii-'nlly  lo  liail.  When 
six  months  had  passed  luo  ibserxcd  ihat  the  water  was 
as  hii;ii  as  v\rv.  Not  disheartened,  however,  he  re- 
newal his  dilimiue,  until,  at  the  end  of  two  years, 
one  dav  when  the  tide  was  out  he  eame  uiK>n  a  cu- 
riovis  stone,  which  he  In  liewd  must  be  the  stone  the 
rieh  sheik  di  sired.  So,  traxellinj,'  in  hi}.,di  hope,  he 
eame  a;4ain  lO  Damaseus,  and  was  admitted  to  the 
sheik's  ]iresenee,  rat^'j^atl  as  he  was,  and  there  related 
his  ad\entures. 

■■'Xow,'  said  he  to  the  sheik,  "I  liave  brought 
you  the  stone  that  is  more  preeious  than  diamonds.' 

"The  sheik  took  the  stone,  and  ])ereeived  that  it 
was  a  common  stoiK — a  mere  pebble. 

'"In  exehaniLie,'  continued  the  Darwish,  hopefully, 
'  I  shall  have  the  jewel  that  is  better  than  all.' 

'■'By  Allah!'  cned  the  sheik,  'such  diligence 
should  be  rewarded  !'  and  immediately  gave  the  hand 
of  his  daughter  to  the  diligeiit  young  Darwish  of  Al 
Busra.  And  so,"  concluded  Ahmed  Ased-UUah, 
"ha\-ing  sought  with  diligence  an  example  of  the 
genius  of  Al  Emad  al  Hasani  Shiraz,  I  am  rewarded 
in  its  possession." 


I  pointed  the  moral  anew.     "He  who  seeks  with 
diligence  shall  find,"  said  I  to  Rachid;  "though  you 

154 


rill-:  \ou.\G   DARwisn  oi-  a  i,  hlska 


havr  iioi  .1  iiutiillik  to  your  luniir,  you  in;iy  \v[  possess 
a  forturiL'." 

"Docs  the  klhVi'ajti  not  know  another  storv?'"  ho 
aski'il. 

I  perceived  that,  like  a  ehilil,  he  loxci]  a  tale,  liut 
re.uardei]  a  mora]  with  distaste;  and  to  dehi;ht  liiin  I 
said  that  I  would  lell  the  stories  of  Ahmed  el  Niri/i 
and  The  U^ly  Writer  of  Teheran,  which  also  I  had 
from  Ased-UUah,  of  Damascus,  the   writer. 


XXIX 


THE    UGLY    Wklll.K    oi'    TF.IIKKA:^ 

•fOXG    ago,"   Ahmed   Ased-Ullah   hopin.   in   Da- 
L*  rndscus.  "thiTc  was  a    writer,  Ahmed  el  Niri/.i, 
who,  havin.L^  arraytd  himself  as  became  a  man  of  his 
fame,  set  out  ujion  a  jouriKv  to  thi-  country  "fa  power- 
lul   sheik  (.f    Xrjd.  hut   was  unhappily  set  upon  hv 
Bedouin  roh'u'rs  in  llie  mountains  between.    .Strijipi'd 
t<)  his  shirt,  dispossessed  of  all  that  he  had  exeei.it 
his  ink  and  Ins  jiaprr,  which  lie  had  fortunately  con- 
cealed, he  still  proceeded  t^   the   city  of    the   sheik, 
hoping  there  to  find  favor  sufllcient  tnr  his  re-estab- 
hshmcnt,  but  was  denied  at  thi'  door  of  the  sheik's 
palace  because  of  his  scanty  a])parel  and  beggarly, 
woebegone  air.     Day  after  d'ay,  h<  Avex'er,  l.e  renewe'd' 
his  request,    insistently    rejieating,    notwithstanding 
the  scorn  nf  the  sheik's  men,  that  he  was  Ahmed  el 
Xirizi,  the  writer,  until  at  last,  in  order  that  his  im- 
I'ortunity  might  be  stoj^j.cd,  he  was  received  by  the 
sheik's  eldest  son,  t<i  whom  he  told   the  tale  of  his 
misfortunes. 

"'What!'  cried  the  sheik's  son,  in  amazement. 
'  Here,  surely,  is  an  impudent  impostor.  This  nakcxi 
beggar  cannot  be  Ahmed  el  Xirizi,  the  writer!' 

J=;5 


SPECIMEN     Or     whitin; 


JCi     OF     THE      PERSIAN      SCHOOL 
ms.  r„„;„„  In  tl,..  I...v>r  I.ft.han.l  .  ,.rmr  rt-a.ls.  •    Il-m-  hv  iW- 
rMist,T.  M..h;,m.mM  Ra.hi.l,  iit:,v  CihI  foraivr  Itim  " 


"Ahmol    c.l    Xu-i.i   stoutly    maiotainui    that    ^hv 
sl^.rt  uhuh  m..ast„-c..|  tho  licviouins'  ..„npa  s   .,  ,1 

PIoas..<I    u„I>   th.s  allitcratu.,.   the  princ..  mn, 
mc.c^.„,U,„t.as.n,  not  convince,/   S,A,;n, 
tilun.i,^  from  Ins  1, fit.  sliaiud  ,t  will,      -      .         ""uuas 
"K  such  <  arc.  as   he-   cuM    an-l    uro„.  nine,  of  the 
"    -ty.nn.nan.es  c,f  Allah.  wi,l,  a  han,,  that  w  a' ^ 

;:;;''^7'"-''-'''''^'''''-'---..sh,nnc.n.i,,H.X 

.race    at„i    prop,,,-,,.,,,    ,,,,i^.,,    ,,,,,.,,,,,,,,,,    ,. 
;;;;rthean-an,c.n..n..hK.hsnl,K..,.,.,HsUn;;;;r; 
'"It  isuvll.lone.'sai,!  llu.  sh.  ik's  s<  ,n       'ObscTv.- 

^^'j;    ''l^n,tc..Ishap..nnnc.u-,thnu-(in^vrnair' 

H^.^■^,,   tlun    iashinnc.,1    a    nvl,.   instrunn.nt    he 
--te,    w,th    snnu.   art.    an   onl.r   upon    his   fathe  ' 
treasurer   tor   hv.   h.n.lre.]    A,,.,.,,,,,    ,„   ,„     ^^„.;   , 

whon.soc.ver  shouM  prescU  it,  a,).]  ,.ao  thecxani   c. 
nf  his  skill  to  Ahmr,l  c'l   \in>.i  ^^•^•'<"I'-^ 

^^^'-™ehnoursai,I  he/ is  the  better  u-ritin.. 

"Ahmed  el  Nin-zi  had   „ot  ta.u.uht  the  sons  of  a 

ShalH^,rnoth.n,      HewasreadyforthepuzJ 

B>  all  means.'  he  ansvcvred.  dc'Ii^hted  with  the 
task,  'yours  IS  the  better.' 

IS7 


GOIXCi    l)()\V.\    IRO.M    JERUSALEM 

'"  Is  il  so?'  crii'd  the  shc-ik's  son,  enrai^ed  1)y  this 
ilattcry.  'Then,'  said  hv,  withdrawinii;  the  order 
from  the  hand  of  Ahmed  el  Xirizi  and  tearinj,'  it  in 
a  thousand  ])ii,'ees,  'yini  shall  ])rove  it,  i  t,  tiv  the 
I'ni])het.  it  shall  be  the  worse  lor  vnul' 

"'As  t\vi)  are  ;j;reater  than  one,'  answeri'd  Ahmeil 
el  Xirizi,  readih',  'so  's  your  writing  gri'ater  than 
mine.' 

"The  prince  demanded  an  explanation. 

'"My  writing  is  beautiful,  it  is  true,'  said  Ahmed 
el  Xirizi;  'but  yours,'  he  added,  tnuehing  his  heart 
and  lips  and  brow,  '  is  bwth  beautiful  and  beneficent.' 

"The  sheik's  son  was  so  delighted  with  the  al- 
literation and  with  the  answer,"  Ahnu'd  Ased-Ullah 
concluded,  "that  he  immediately  drew  an  order  for 
one  thousami  tomamts  and  presented  it  to  Ahmed 
el  Xirizi." 


Rachid,  much  pleased  with  the  tale,  demanded 
the  story  of  The  Uglx-  Writer  of  Teheran,  which 
forthwith  I  related;  Aba  al  Kasem  al  Darwish,  a 
Persian,  who  held  his  skill  in  higtier  reg:ird  than  his 
life,  and,  indeed,  had  nothing  else  to  esteem,  because 
he  !iad  no  personal  attractions,  sought  a  commission 
from  Ali  Shah,  thinking  to  establish  his  fame  as  a 
I'ourt  writer  and  in  this  way  be  remembered.  "If  I 
please  the  King,"  thought  he,  "then,  indeed,  shall 
I  be  famous."  It  was  a  bold  thir.g  to  do,  and  Aba  al 
Kasem  was  warneii,  Iivit  continued  i>bdurate,  deter- 
mined at   wh;ite\-er  cost  to  be  reiueinb(.'red. 

158 


T  n  E    U  G  L  \'    \V  R  I  T  E  R    (J  I-    T  E  H  E  R  A  X 


"Wiuit!"  cried  the  Shah,  when  the  petition  was 
pn'st'nted.  "vShall  1,  who  ha\e  to  do  with  .-soldiers 
and  scholars,  sprak  with  a  mure  penman"'  Dismiss 
the  impertinent  fellow!  I  will  ha\e  nothing  to  ilo 
with  a  man  of  so  mean  an  oceui)ation." 

But  this  unfortunate  dispositictn  toward  the  fine 
arts  was  presently  overcome,  and  Aba  al  Kasem  al 
Darwish  was  admitted  to  the  presence.  No  sooner 
had  the  unhapj))-  man  entered  than  the  Shah  started 
back  with  an  ejaculation  of  horror  and  disgust.  The 
writer  was  indeed  the  ugliest  of  creatures.  No  grace 
of  the  graces  of  form  and  feature  had  been  vouch- 
safed to  him,  nor,  to  mend  his  apjiearance,  had  he 
actji.'ircd  the  least  accomplishment  of  manne*-;  so 
that,  indeed,  he  was  m(jre  agreeable  to  the  company 
of  camel-drivers  than  the  audience  of  kings.  He 
was  hunchbackefl  and  hairy,  cross-eyed,  clubfooted, 
bandylegged,  and  his  hair  fell  wild  and  matted  o\'er 
his  shoulders,  his  beard  far  lielow  his  middle,  his 
hands  repulsively  below  his  knees.  He  had  nothing 
to  recommend  him  to  the  favor  of  the  world  but  the 
delicate  skill  with  which  he  employed  his  reed  pens: 
and  concerning  this  he  knew  \erv  >vell. 

"This  is  not  Aba  al  Kasem  al  Darwish!"  cried  the 
Shah.  "Conduct  him  hence.  I  shall  lose  sleep  on 
account  of  him." 

The  Shah  was  informed  that  this  was  Aba  al 
Kasem  and  none  other. 

"  What !"  cried  he,  covcTing  his  eyes  from  th(>  sight 
of  the    writer's  ugliness,     "it    is   impossible!     This 

'59 


noi.vr,  Dowx  from  Jerusalem 

cannot  he  Ai.a  al  Kascn  al  Uarwish.  whose  art  has 
>I^'I.,uht.u  nie!  \hny  can  th.  very  perfection  of  beauty 
in-(jccc(l  Imni  a  torin  so  ^drrihk'?" 

"It  IS  I,"  Aha  al  Kasem  insisted. 

"Then."  (ienian.Ied  the  Shah,  "in  Grul's  name 
where  were  you  when  God  .listrihutcd  the  x'arious 
graces  ot  person.'"' 

"Wlien  God  gathered  the  s.jns  of  ,nen   together 
to  recen-e  these  pretty  gifts."   said   Aha  a!   Kasem 
scorntully,  ••!   ^as  husily  engaged." 

"  G(;t  you  no  sliare.''" 
^^^••Ijasahsent/-ansux.edAhaalK^^^^^^^ 

"Unfortunate  man!"  erie.l   the  Sliah;  "  what  d-V] 

you  hnd  to  compare  witn  that  which  vou  have  lost  "' " 

11  at  very  perfectiou  of  hcanivr  answered  Aha  al 

fvasem,  c,u,cklv,  -of  which  your  Majestv  has  made 

mention. 

By  this  the  Shall  was  so  dc.liglUe.l  that  he  com- 
n>ended  Aha  al  Ka.sem's  devotion,  and  commissioned 
h>m  to  inscnhe  a  Koran  with  such  illumination  as 
Had  ne\-er  heen  known  liefore. 

Mrl^'"''  r"  '"^"'"•"  '^''''  ^^^^^hid.  "Does  the 
unaaaui  not  know  one  more  story p" 

"Tim.e  passes."  I  objected. 

''But  tlie  khaivaja  is  washed,"  he  insisted,  "and 
1-Jias  has  not  yet  calle.]  to  suj^per  " 

^;;"'''  ^'- ^-'-f  The  Sh,n  .,  ate  Only  Contented 

1 60 


XXX 


THE    SHIRT   OF    TIIK    COXTEXTED    MAX 

THERE  was  once  a  Sultan,"  said   I,  "who  ivU 
ill,  and  was  greatly  distressed    1)\-  his  ailment 
which   sadly  interfered    with   certain   jjlans   he   had 
made  for  the  conquest  of  his  enemy. 

'"A  physician  to  cure  me,'  he  cried,  'that  1  may 
proceed  upon  my  business!' 

The  court  physician,  failing  to  cure  him  overni.i^'ht, 
was  decapitated  the  next  morning. 

"'Another!'  cried  the  Sultan;  'and  if  he  fails,  as 
this  one,  he  sh;/!  sutler  the  same  fate.' 

"The  second  pliysieian,  sitrnally  failing  to  ease  the 
Sultan's  pain  before  ilawn,  lost  his  head  before  noon. 
A  third,  with  remarkable  temerity,  presented  him- 
self, and  vanished  from  the  sphere  of  his  endeaxor. 
And  so  it  went  on,  da_\'  l)y  day,  until  the  kingdom 
was  depleted  of  physicians,  save  only  one,  whr)  was 
sum.moned  to  the  Sultan's  presence. 

'Your  Majesty  is  in  evil  ease,'  said  he.  'Within 
my  experience  I  liave  met  with  but  one  other  so 
grie\ously  situated,  and  he  was  a  donkev-driver. 
Tfi  1)e  cured  of  vour  afifliction,'  the  physician  un- 
hesitatingly prescril)ed,  'your  ?klajesty  must  sleep  in 
the  shirt  of  a  coniented  man.' 

I'll 


i'\ 


tr 


tioixT.  nov;.v  prom  Jerusalem 

'■  Please,!  with  tills  curious  advice,  the  l,kc  of  which 
""  other  piiysician  had  <.lW.l.  the  Sultan  eornmarui- 
ed  seven  contented   men  to  he  fetched  hefore  him 
h.nkin^  to  choose  a  sh.rt  in  his  Hkin^.     Hut  look 
li'gh  and  low,  as  his  ministers  , lid,  no  contented  man 
was  to  he  found  in  the  kingdom;  whereupon  the  im- 
patient Sultan  commande.1  the  search  to  hv  carrie<l 
yet  more  distantly,  e^•en  to  the  desert  an,l  mountains 
beyond    his   domain.     After   three    months,    during 
^vhich  the  Sultan  sutfercd  excruciating  pain,  a  fort- 
unate emis.sary  c'hanced  upon  an  object  of  the  search 
a  contente.1    man,   who  inhabite<I  a   wretched   caxe 
m  the  mountains,  and  was  the  most  destitute  of  all 
the  creatures  of  that   ncighborhuod-a  hermit     ill- 
nourishe<l,  ill-dad,  and  meanly  housc.l 

"•It  is  true,'  said  the  hermit.  '  I  am  a  contented 
'"an.  I  POS.SCSS  all  that  I  want.  1  lack  nothing  of 
my  need  or  dc^sire.' 

"Id'on  this  admission  thev  haled  him  into  the 
presence  of  the  Sultan. 

'"Come,-  cried  the  Sultan,  wc-ary  of  his  pain,  'olT 
with  your  shirt!' 

"But  it  W..S  unhai)pily  true,"  I  concluded,  -that 
tne  contented  man  haa  no  shirt!" 
Rachid  laughed. 


Uvrc  at  the  WVIl  of  Googaa  was  our  last  camp 
made  m  the  desert;  we  should  next  pitch  tents  the 
day  avonng  our  journey,  on  the  bank  of  the  Suez 
'^anal,  at  Kantara,   whence  our  followers  woul.J  iv- 


E 


Wfc       MADE      OU^J       ..AMP       u,        IHE       WELL 


SiriRT    OF    TflE    COXTEXTH  IJ    MAX 

turn  U>  J.Tusalcrn  with  the  caravan  by  the  way  we 
had  eoine,  leaving  us  to  take  train  to  Cairo.      wJ  lia.l 
n(.eanip-fire;thecameM)oysan(I  Hained  liad   search- 
ed the  nearer  sand  for  something  t(j  I)urn,  hui  had  re- 
turned emptydianded,  the  nei,^hborhood  having'  lon^^ 
a.uo  been  swept  l)y  jtassing  travellers.     The  wind  had 
K"ne  d..wn,   howe\i'r,   and    presently   the  moon   was 
up;  and  the  younger  khaa'aja  and  1  sat  with  Aboosh 
by   the  door  of   the   tent— and    the   muleteers  and 
camel-(h-i\ers   squatted   on   the  sand— and    wc   had 
tra\-t'llcd   tar  and   eompanionably  together — and   we 
were  comfortable  enough  (if  somewhat  melancholy) 
on    this   last    night   alone.     Ali    Mahmoud,    the   big 
muleteer,  an<i  Mustafa,  the  camel-driver,  demanded 
to  know  more  of  that  Abdullah  from  Ain  el  Kaum, 
the   rascally   camel-trader   with    wliom   the   klnr^'aja 
had   fallen   in   at   the   khan  of  the   camel-drivers   in 
Damascus  on  the  ni>Ju  before  the  pilgrimage. 

It  seemed  that  the  man's  rascality  was  ajipealing 
to  them  all.  and  I  indulged  them  uiih  Abdullah's 
tale  of  The  Camel  with  the  (}]ass  Eyes. 


XXXI 


TUn    CAMin.    WITH    TMK    Of  ASS    nVFS 

you  will  n.c.-.ll  th:.t  ,1k.  c.nK.I-tra.lin..^  Al.lullah 
1  irom  Ain.l  Kann..  si, :  in.^in  tlu.  lulumv  al-.-vr 
the  stahk-yanl  ,  ,f  ,],.  /,/.,;.,  ip  Damascus.  toM  th. 
talent  Ilu.  I).,,  \Vb,,Vh  Bit  .he  Stranu.r  an,l  that 
enKak'in,^  st.rv  .,f  Tl,,-  W..!!.  an,l  Thn.ul  H.v- 
m^  rec,U.,l  ,h.  la.t.r,  1„.  uas  s,K.„t  for  a  n.-UK.nt ; 
;'":^^^'-'"-^'''^'^'''>^--l>^''<-'-lt-n-wanl.  withavain 

'"'^•^"■"'-  '■•^'•'^•''•^"'^■nVanLalv.-sai.llu..  con- 
"I'n^^ly.    -onev   ,V)1    in    l..v.    u„h    rn..      It    was   my 

"^;"V-  ""'^^  '^"  "^■"■''"'"-  ''^-  il-"  H.,v  was  a 
ouhsh  vanuy-- l.travol  t.,  the  uttcTniost  in  asillv 
•t    e    lau,h.     "She    ]„vc..l     nn.    vory    much,"    Al.'- 

.|uJ.J.  contnnu.l    ••an.MvnuMhav.n.e  -..Wnca 
Ml  Iut;  an,|   when   [  .l.ni.,]  lur,  she  hau  a  mark 
tatl.H  >,,„,,„„  „_,.,,,,,       •B,  this  mark.'  sai.i  she 
you  w,]l  know  that   ,nv  loxv  is  everlasting^      When' 

you  come  to  me,  mv  lif.  uil]lx>  resumed:  hut  if  vou 
hnKcr,  I  per.sh.'     X„  ,,,,,„,;■  Ainlullah  conclude,! 

-nhprue,  ''she  has  now  perished  of  her  love' 

t  ,s  a  familiar  thin,.  (I  recalD-thc.  incident  of  the 
adv    tourist    and    the    flirtatious    Arah-but    God 
knows  \vh\-!      I  had   h.-ir,!    t-,!,..     r  ^u      ,• 

Had  marl   tales  of  the  disagrecvihle 
.r,4 


Til  !•:  CAM  !■  L  WIT  II  Tn  i:  r.  I.  ASS  I-:  ^■  i:  s 

mystery  -( if  {\ir  ruin  wmu-ht  hy  it;  an^l  I  mmu  as- 
sumed tlial  snmr  dilur  \V(,iiKin  ha,i  in.aol  pitiaMy 
fort^ottm  Inr  race  lur  llic  miiTiieiit,  l.ut  was  now  re- 
vnvvrv<\.  iK.l  jiensluv]  ,,(  h,r  l..vc,  as  Abdullah  would 
luiVL'  il.  Thr  thin-  was  not  interest iu.i;-  it  most 
melancholv  nu\\\  .\\n\vM,h  lilted  the  sUvm^  of  his 
.;/'/'(/  to  e\!nl,it  the  mark  of  the  lady's  poor  infatua- 
ti"ii;and  then  1  lauLjhe.l,  and  was  dowiieast  no  more, 
forth.'  mark  was  as  old  as  Ahdullah's  infanev,  havin<i 
Krown  with  his  trrouth,  luin::  ii'>w  Murred,  not  cK'ar'^ 
cut  f.f  outline,  as  tatlo,.  marks  must  he  if  made  upon 
the  full-i^'rown  person. 

"Tell  Abdullah,  in  ihv  most  i'le,^ant  Arabic  at  your 
command,"  I  said  to  the  Interpreter,  '-that  he  is  a 
hearty  liar— and  a  most  tii^'a^^'inv'  one." 

"It    my   ser\ice   is  occasionally   inadecjuate,"   the 
Interpreter  answered,  bo\^■in,^,  "it  shall  now  at  least 
be  abundantlx-  sufficient." 
"  Fire  away!"  said   I. 

The  Inter])reter  was  f)ccupied  for  some  time;  and 
at  the  end  of  it  Abdullah  was  srnnewhat  offended, 
hut  was  presently  mollified,  so  that  he  proceeded  to 
relate  the  tale  of  the  camel  with  the  f^dass  eyes,  at 
which  he  had  previousl)-  hinted. 


"In  a  small  villajjo  on  the  Beirut  road,"  said  he, 
"  Ir.-es  my  relati\-e;  and  soiournin}.,^  once  with  him, 
'Ml  my  way  to  Damascus,  with  Hassan,  mv  son.  I 
encountered  a  camel  -  and  loved  it.  My  admira- 
tion, khawajti,  was  like  a  ie\-T  consuming  me;  and  I 

165 


'■'>\Si.    lu>\\  \     I  Ko.M    jl.Krs.M.I. 


.M 


musUiavc.  that  cam.l,  I  k,u  u ,  ,  „•  [nrish.  \Ua  thr 
canid  was  uuunrth v,  all  r  all  -a  DcaM  la,r  to  Lhc 
eye  but  afflietcl  wnl,  .na.lncss.  s..  that  no  .nan  was 
•siife  as  lus  ,„astcr.  I  la,  i  I  „,  ,t  !,,,„  a  camd-doctcr 
^^•t!-  kn-.wlol.uc'  ..,■  ,1,,  spin  ,,„!  an,i  .■,,n,,H,u,„l  of 
^-v„  ,„alK.i,H.s,  I  shnt.M  have,  hcsitatcl  tc  seek 
urtlu  r  aajuaintamv  in  thf  ,!ia-ction  nf  mv  Wcsi,-..- 

;"'^ '■:'"■':'•''-""■  tl'-t  I  -..s-an.lanM„,w  so  scTvm. 
t''-  p.  ,^'nn,s-I  posscsscl  th.  s.uvl  ,,f  Hiis  <.,uv   a,,:] 

;":"\'7^-^''^';'--^-  Itisasi,npk.thi„K:spI,Mlu. 
tail..  Ihrnia,]  canul,  v,  that  ih.  1,I,,.„1  (l,,wt,.the 
"H'asurrot   a   pint;  p.uk.r  th.    skm  ,,l    ,1,.  l.p.w  „, 

^""•'- I'-l'iN  whirl,  ,„nst  Ik.  r,M.,l  „.  ,,„,ai„  with  M.xcn 
^t'trhrs,  ,I,„u-  wuhadean  .Kv,  lie. ;  aM.nmist.r.  t  hen 

^^^--'>n,i.nuv\,,i,,unmuUnuvs..n.\  the  aUhction 
passes  t()re\-',.r. 

,  "•^''■"^;'^^'"1  i  t-Mlnsman,  -1  an,  n.  ,t  afraul  ul 
><>ur  ean,el;  1,  i    i,s  tiM.le.' 

"Hy  was  nv.,-\v,]li„.  to  1u,v..in.  Uia;,u  :  rUr  I 
sH-ul.l  ,Kv>.,-  have  n,ana,..,l  t, ,  ,,utw,t  h,n,  in  the 
"l^'""';-  you  shall  p,-.se,„lv  hea,-;  I.m  h.  lan.^hc.,! 
;'f  ';'''"'^=;^^'>-^'^"^>-^'an.el  uhu,  1  lo!  h„n  h-nh 
'"''"f^'-  -\"'i.  'n,Iee,I,  I  was  ,nha,M  ease:  fo,-n,v 
camel   u.,s  l,hn,l-so  l,li,,l,   kl,r.:,„,   thai  1„.  e.^; 

-vre  wh.le  with  the  eata,-aet,  a„,l  no  n,an  w,ih  eves 
"1  his  own  eouM  fail  lo  ol,se,-ve  the  atllielion  '    " 

^^>-:;'7'-;'^  ^  "^^'^t  tell  you.  hein^  a  iruihlul 
man,    said   I,  ■  is  Min.l.' 

,    '""'^'l'"";''^'--'  'i-  a„sw..re.I,  -hav..  a  ,na,I  ea,7iel 
'''^'"    ••'    '•'■-'    -'-      Then.    ,s    no    pn.m    ,„    ,,ik,„, 

I  00 


Til  i:  CA  M  i:  L  w  nil   Til  i:  (;  i.A.ss  i;  v  lis 

KirlliLT  Ml    this   inatt.T.   tor,    \,\    td,    I'mplu'i '  y<mr 
cartU'l  wi.uld  nvvrv  um  iii\  alicdion.' 

'"\iiur  \vis<loiii,'  1  .mswcToi,  'uiiis  my  nsprct. 
A  tilind  i-aiinl,  whuli  sli.,iil.l  Ik.u-  Imnlnis,  is  hiii.scli 
a  hunlrii.  ()l,srr\f  my  uiiiK.'!,'  said  I,  'liow  very 
lilind  he  is,  ( )t)srr\c  liitii  carcfuliy.  Was  Uktl'  c-vct 
so  Mind  a  caiiHl  ]<v\<>vv  I  would  know  thatcamcl,' 
^;iid   I,  '  in  a  h  Td  <i|'  a  tlinusand.' 

'"i.nd  I,  hy  Allah!'  said  ln',  with  much  lauKhUr, 
'in  a  coinpany  m|   ten  thdusanil.' 

'"I  will  Kad  niy  tanicl  awav,'  said  I,  'lest,  his 
al'lliilioii  ..lU'iid  \MM,  and  td-mofniw  1  will  depart 
tni-  Damascus;  hut  in  six  da_\s  I  will  rrlurn,  liriiiLnni,' 
anotlu-r  camel,  which  1  will  cxchaiiKi.'  I'-r  this  mad 
licasl,  tor  I  lii\r  it.' 

"Thus  it  fell  uut.  In  the  niornitii,'  I  dejKn-ted; 
and  ha\in.u  c  unr  tn  Damascus,  I  rrmox-cd  the  ews 
fp.m  my  Mind  camel,  an.l  inserted  ,L;lass  eyes  in  their 
stead;  and  I  sha\ed  him  with  much  care,  and  sad- 
dled him  with  new  cicth.  Then  1  set  out  l^r  the 
small  '  ''lai^e  where  dwelt  m_\-  rel,iti\-e,  to  which,  as 
1  had  planned,  I  came  at  dusk,  God  hefriendin-^  me 
in  this  undertakin.u. 

'"I  am  in  much  haste,"  T  said  to  the  owner  of  the 
camel  that  I  loved,  'else  I  would  not  trouble  \-ou  with 
bargainiuij;  to-ni!j;ht;  hut  if  y(m  would  he  rid  of  your 
mad  camel,  the  thinj,'  must  be  accomy)lishi'd  at  once.' 
"  He  examined  my  camel,  khaii'aja,  in  the  dusk,  a& 
I  had  intended,  and  he  fell  in  love  with  the  beast, 
as  I  had  foreseen. 


('  "  I  \  (.     iMt  W  X     I'  k  ()  M     I  i:  J<  I  ,s,\  1.  1-;  M 


'"IK  IV  is  iio  l,liii,l  cMiiul,'  s,ii(|  ln',  <i\(  r\\  illini^'  i>> 
hf  rill  (if  his  mad  nnc,  'arnl  I  will  tra.li.' 

"  Thus  uf  trail.. I,  the  1 1 1 m<^' l)cin^j  done  in  liu-  pirs- 
oncc  of  uitiRsSfs.  accord  in,':,'  {<>  tlir  man's  rctiiK-st; 
and  I  WfUl  lo  my  relative's  li.mse  t!ir.v  liundnd 
piastres  the  richer;  l.ut  the  own,  r  ..("  the  eamel  uilli 
the  Rlass  eyes  set  out  on  the  Imi  k  ..t  his  beast  t..  try 
It.  h.uht  remaining;  for  this,  and  1  s.iu  hmi  n. .  nn-re 
until  morning',  when  lie  eauu-  n.  uw  in  a  j,'reat  de- 
jjression  of  spirits, 

'"A  stran<^c  thini,'  has  h.ippdkd",  said  he.  WK 
eamel  lias  J.  .st  l,.,ih  eyes.  Th.  v  h,.vr  .Jn.pp.-d  ,,ut, 
and   I  lannot  hnij  them,  s-areh  ,is  I  inav.' 

Ihe  will  rit  ("iiid,'  I  answered,  '  i^  n.vsterious.' 

"'I  ha\e  eciinr,"  said  he,  'to  undo  the  trade.' 

■  '1    am    not   avers,.'    I    answered.     'Restore   the 

\\iil  ;^'ladly  .i^ixe   v, ju   hack 


ami 


eyes  to  iny  lanul. 

your  own.' 

'■Hut  this,"  Al.dullah  e.  mcjude,],   with  a  ehuckle, 

■  the  unfortunate  man  enuld   n,il   ,]<.." 
"  Here,"  s;n'd   1,  "is  a  tale  <  if  y<  .ur  in\  enln  in." 
"By  Gixl!"  he  answered,  "the  stoi-y  is  true." 
'"It  is  a  tale,"  I  insisted,  ".if  your  own  iineiition." 
"  F3y  (iod  and  Mohammed  I"  he  swore,  "the  story 

is  Iriie." 

I    taunted   hiivi  aj^ain. 

"  By  God  and  .Mohammed  the  Mcsscnjjcr  of  Gf)d!" 
he  protested,  "the  story  is  true  as  I  have  told  it." 

All  the.se  Bedouins  are  i^reat  eiath-,lo(ij.,'ers —artful 
at  swearing,    with  reservations.     It  is  an  excellent 

108 


THE    C  A  M  n  I.   W   I  T  II    T  H  !■;    C.  I,  A  S  S    [•.  YES 

tiling;  s*)  many  oaths  they  fciko  that  some  wiy  of 
I'scajK-  trom  an  t-vcr-llowinp;  prrjur\-  is  (KiiiaiKk'tl. 
I  fancieil  n<)\v-s;icrnl  as  the  last  n.ah  fia.l  ]>vt'n — 
IImI  AUlulI.ih  was  trickiiij^  me;  ht'  nuisl  surely  have 
his  tinKers  croSvSiil  in  tlir  liiij  sk'e\-cs.  1  rKjuiml  him 
to  swear  by  his  head  and  his  rcli^inn,  \(j\viiiv^  I'l  put 
away  his  wife  if  hr  failol  in  any  ikhIkuLu  m|  ihe 
tnith:  which  is  an  oath  (they  say)  that  nn  IJedi.uin 
will  violate. 

■"Pile  khauvjcj  knows,"  Ahditllah  answered,   with 
a  .identic  smik',  "tliat  t!u-  oath  is  iinjn  ,ssihle!" 

Sm  I  d'l  nut  Id'liew  the  talc  .  .l' The  C'anul  with  the 
Glass  Eyes;  hut  il  is  a  pleasantly  fantastic  iiucntion, 
and  I  wish  that  I  niii^ht.  To  the  rcalitv  of  the  talcs 
of  The  Needle  and  Thrca.l  .md  The  Dot;  Which  Bit 
the  Stran.ucr,  Alidullah  ;4ra\-rl\-  swore,  taking  the 
threefold  oath.  They  are  true,  it  si'cnis;  hut  what 
matter'  since,  at  any  rate,  they  reflect  the  manner 
of  his  life,  and  presi-nt  in  an  a^'rcealily  entertaininj; 
fashion  the  ethics  of  his  business.  Here  was  this 
Abdullah,  no  adherent  of  his  tribe,  which,  to  become 
a  wanderin<j  caniel-trader,  lie  had  deserted,  much  to 
the  shame  of  him  in  tlie  si^it  of  all  ^'ocxl  Bedouins, 
wl-o  despise  the  ni.m  that  yii'lds  his  tribal  identity 
to  become  a  wanderin,,:;  inili\idual.  The  ease  and 
security  of  tlu'  towns  had  overcome  him;  lu'  had  now 
nf)  stomach  for  the  desert.  "It  is  a  life,"  said  he, 
"of  starvation  and  blooddetting,  a  life  of  the  beasts, 
and   I  have  found   a  better."     This  better  had  at 

I  6y 


11 


GOING    D  O  W  X    FROM    JERUSALEM 


])r(SiTit  to  il(j  with  the  pili;riinat,ri.';  hut  was  nn  hearty 
oc'cui)ati(jn,  like  that  of  the  eamel-masters,  wlio  in 
these  (lays  ot  preparati(jn  come  in  from  the  wilder- 
ness and  truculently  strut  the  bazars.  As  I  suh- 
si([Ue!itly  learned,  Abdullah  was  a  leech  upon  the 
pilj.^rima<i;e — at  one  with  tlu'  thieves  ;ind  cut-throats 
and  all  manner  of  e\il  men  who  follow,  but  was  of 
a  more  subtle  and  respectable  class. 

It  seemed,  however  (I  recall),  that  he  lo\-ed  his 
youn^L!;  son  oxernmeli,  as  do  all  Bedouin  fathers,  and 
would  ha\e  him  lead  no  life  of  the  desert,  1)ut  attend 
the  Moslem  sclmols  of  Damascus,  that  he  might  lie 
an  itinerant  teacher  of  the  Aoran  in  the  desert  towns. 

"But  Hassan,  my  srai,"  h.e  sighed,  "is  of  the 
lion-heart;  he  is  i:ii])atient  for  the  sw<ird  and  tlu' 
nit,rh^  expeditions  of  our  tribe.  Before  loni,'  he  will 
be  away  to  the  desert." 

"What,  now,"  1  inquired,  idly,  "will  his  mother 
think  '.f  that?" 

"  What  matter?"  Abdullah  answered,  much  bored. 

I  \-entured  a  curious  sui;t:^estion.  "Suppose,"  I 
paid,  "'that  this  Hassan  learned  the  arts  of  war  in 
i-m,i,dand  '" 

".And  returned?"  Abdullah  demanded,  (judekly. 

"  Even  so," 

Abdullah  laughed  a  littU'.  "  Whe-e-e-e-w!"  he 
whistled.  "He  would  to  his  tribe  add  a  hundred 
tril_>es,"  he  declared,  with  eyes  aflash.  "Then' 
would  in  twenty  years  be  a  new  prince  in  the  desert 
— a  ijrinee  like  Ibn  f-lachid!" 

170 


THE  CAMEL  WITH  THE  GLASS  EVES 

\Vc  <li<l  not  pursue  this;  and  presently  Abdullah, 
having  rolled  another  eis^aretle,  tdld,  with  a  c}uick 
ehange  of  manner,  the  story  of  I  he  merehant  of  Da- 
mascus and  his  \-enture  into  Nejd,  as  if  he  had  but 
now  recollected  it. 


I 


I 


XXXII 


I 


THE    HOXEST    TK.\I)i:k    OI-    XF.JD 

[N  my  liU',"  s;ii.!  lu',  "I  haw  rovnl  niuch —frDm 
th(.'  Lehanon  hills,  through  ihc  country  of  the 
Drusrs,  an.i  :<'  O'.v  snuthwanl  a  journt'yof  ninety  days 
into  thr  lircai  Disn-t,  where  no  Christian  niav  l;o. 
To  Xejrl  w,  .  I  ill  111)-  yninh,  with  my  unelf,  a  rieh 
man,  who  liwdi  llirre.  dralin.^  in  eamrls;  ami  to  him 
came  a  niercliant  .if  Damascus,  willi  thrre  himiln'd 
camels  tor  sale,  the  which  he  had  dri\en  f'lr  thirty 
days  (Her  the  jHrilMus  ilesert,  havin.LT  lieard  that 
sickness  had  created  a  need  nf  hcasts  in  Xeid. 

'"I  am  come  with  these  three  hun<]rcd  camicls,' 
sai<l  he  to  my  uncle,  'ami  now  I  must  sell  them  at  a 
price  or  lose  the  fortune  I  ha\-e  invested  in  the  enter- 
prise. God  fn,-L,'i\t'  nie  this  undertaking,  which  has 
been  too  .yrcat  for  my  stnn-th!  I  am  worn  out  with 
tra\-ellin,Lr,  and  in  haste  to  return.  In  Damascus,' 
said  lie,  'they  ask  twelve  naj^okons  fur  a  camel; 
l>ut  I  am  S(i  weary  of  this  business  that  I  demand  no 
more  than  ten  napoleons  for  each  of  my  herd.' 

'"It  is  a  reasonable  thincr,'  tny  uncle  answered, 
'but  I  must  first  considci  the  matter.  Do  you  meet 
nic  at  this  place  to-morrow  morning,  and  we  will  talk 


Tf!i:    HO. VEST    TRADER    OF    XEJD 

further  of  the  business.     Your  camels  are  excellent 
beasts,  ami  I  would  possess  them.' 

"Thereupon  the  merchant  departed;  and  presently 
my  uncle  called  me  from  the  house. 

"'Abdullah,'  said  hv,  'you  hax'e  heard  this  man, 
but  he  has  not  observed  you.  He  is  a  simple  m.an, 
now  in  hard  case  indeed,  bein^t^  able  to  dri\'e  his 
starved  beasts  no  farther,  and  God  has  enli<^'htened 
me  with  a  plan  to  outwit  him.  Do  you  ride  int'.>  the 
desert,  where  he  may  not  encounter  vou  before  the 
time;  and  at  this  hour  to-morrow  <1o  you  return  and 
present  me  with  this  writinj,%  riding  in  haste  and  as 
one  come  from  a  great  distance.  If  all  goes  well, 
we  shall  jiresently  have  much  to  thank  Gud  for.' 

"All  this  I  d.irl  — and,  indeed,  with  much  art.  I 
came  hot  and  dusty,  with  the  mare  in  a  lather,  .galloj)- 
ing  as  with  a  message  of  warning  against  sudden 
attack;  and  I  fell  from  the  back  of  my  horse  at  the 
very  feet  of  my  uncle  and  the  merchant  fnun  Da- 
mascus, crying: 

"'God  be  tha.nked  that  I  have  arrived!  I  have 
sped  far  and  most  cruelly  with  this  letter,  bein.g  com- 
manded to  deliver  it  in  haste  by  vour  agent  in  Da- 
mascus.' 

'"I  am  busy  with  this  good  merchant,'  answered 
my  uncle,  'and  will  read  the  letter  anon.' 

"But  I  besought  him  by  the  Prophet  to  ojx'n  the 
message,  lest  some  misfortune  befall  him;  and  having 
indulged  me,  he  gave  .great  thanks  to  God  for  Ilis 
compassion,  and  spread  the  news  which  the  letter 

173 


r 


G  O  I  \  G    DOWN    FROM    J  E  R  U  S  A  I.  E  M 

contained,  wlnTraltcr  he  came  a;jjain  tri  tln'  aiixious 
merchant,  hut  now  with  a  woful  euvintenance. 

"'G(m1  Ikin'c  mercy  <in  ynu!'  said  he.  'I  liave  no 
need  of  your  camels." 

"The  inenhant  deinandeil   an  exjjlanation. 

"'The  ]iriet'  of  eamels,"  answert'd  mi\'  unele,  'has 
f;d!en  b>  (i\i'  napolecms  in  the  eaniel-niarket  of  Da- 
mascus. Here!'  said  he,  'read  the  letter  for  Your- 
self. 1  i^'riew  for  you,  friend,  for  it  st'erns  indeed 
tliat  (iod  Would  easti.Ljate  vou  fur  shiiK'  sin.  Conud' 
said  he,  'I  am  an  Imnest  man,  with  a  heart  of  coin- 
passion  for  the  untortiuKite,  and  thou.uh  I  hesitate 
to  intt'rfere  with  the  olixdnus  purjvises  of  Gm],  I  will 
'ke  pitv,  and   risk  my  niuI's  health  hv  yixdni,'  vou 

.'"  na])iilc(ins  a  head  for  vour  camels." 
The  end  of  it  was,"'  Ahdullali  concludt'd,  "tliat 
wlien  they  liad  liari.'ained  for  seven  days,  the  mer- 
chant bein,ic  han!  to  reduce,  mv  unele  L,^a\-e  six 
napoleons  for  each  of  the  three  hundred  camels,  and 
profited  much  thereby;  I'oi  there  was  a  Ljreat  tieed 
f)f  beasts  m  .Xejd  at  that  tinn'.  [  Uarned  much," 
he  added,  "from  that  I'unnin^'  man."" 

We  left  Abdullah  then,  for  it  was  thrown  verv  late; 
but  something  I  saw  of  hitn  afterwanl,  beh^n.  the 
piljrrim.s  set  out  for  Mt'cca  b\-  God's  Gate,  and  thouuh 
I  could  concei\-e  no  friendly  feclini,'  for  him,  because 
of  his  \  illany,  I  still  iraist  entertain  mvsi'lf  with  ttio 
d.isplay.  I'jion  th.e  oecas'on  of  departure  I  chanced 
to  liid  hitn  (iod-spt'e(l.     The  da\'  wa,-;  fair  and  warm, 

174 


y 


THE      SHOP      OF      A       TRADER 


T  II  !•:    HO  X  !■  ST    TRAD  E  R    O  F    X  E  J  D 

the  slrci.''  IhmnLicil,  tlic  town  in  a  niniinoticin  of 
joyous  cxtitrinrnt,.  Tliirc  was  no  sok'minty,  r\cr])t 
that  seUk'il  upon  ihc  fat'cs  of  llu'  day-Ion*,'  streaming' 
yrocession ;  IIutc  was  no  sliowcr  nf  lilcssin,^s  from 
tlu'  roofs  of  the  liousi'S,  nor  bonibanhncnt  of  lioly 
injuiK'tions  from  the  lia/ars  of  thi'  Nh'ilan.  as  men 
and  beasts  wi'iit  1j\',  Imt  a  li\'t'lv  Itantrrin;^  and  larl 
criticism,  as  i^^rci'ts  a  i)anbK'  in  our  own  land.  Be- 
yond tile  city  we  stood  to  watch  the  passing  of  these 
poor  folk. 

I  observed  ])rcsentl\'  ;i  Ioul:  stritiij;  of  camels  bear- 
ing no  bunK'US. 

"What  camels  are  these."  I  asked,  "and  why  are 
thev  thus  fa\ored  '" 

"These  camels,"  the\-  answered,  "will  taki'  up 
the  liurdens  of  the  beasts  which  ])erisli  in  the  desert." 

I  wondered  that  in  the  organization  of  thi'  ])il- 
grimage  an  official  I'onsideration  of  this  magnitude 
had  been  sho\n.  Ihit  I  was  ])rescntl\'  enlightened; 
here  was  nothing  onicial  at  all,  but  a  yiriwite  enter- 
prise. Strutting  behind  his  string  of  JK'asts,  ha\ing 
not  yet  taken  to  the  saddle,  came  Abdullah  from 
Ain  el  Kaimi;  and  when  I  cla]>])ed  eyes  on  him  1 
understood.  Here  were  camels  for  sale  to  the  un- 
fortunate, who  wotild  ])av  through  the  nose  for  their 
misfortunes.  Tlie  trader  ran  from  the  nxid  to  kiss 
our  hands;  antl  we  gave  him  (iod-sjieed,  according 
to  the  form.  He  waved  his  hand  again,  shouted, 
"  I'or  (lod  and  Mohammed!"  and  disappeared  in  the 
confusion.      That   was  the  last  we  saw  of  him.      In 

175 


i 


('.  f)  I  \  r.    I)  O  W  \    !■  ROM    J  F.  R  U  S  A  L  E  M 

Caipi,  six  wtcks  MUtrward,  when  lie  slioulil  \>v  an'i\'- 
inj,'  ,it  his  jduniry's  end,  I  KMninl  ihal  the  piij^'riiiis 
Were  dyiii.u  nf  thr  iila.u'lic  in  Mufa  at  thr  appalHn.s,' 
rate  of  nearly  live  hundred  a  tlav. 


XXXIII 

ON'   THE    ROAD   TO    KAXTARA 

WE  wcTf  nowcniiK'tothc  ];ist  day's  riding  toward 
Cairo— ("lon^'.ia  \vi.st\vanl  to  tlu'  Suez  Canal  at 
Kantara.  It  was  iiiclancholy  en()U<ih,  indocni-  tlic 
ncarin^'  c^nd  of  those  wtrLs'  placid  desert  tra  veil  in,'; 
from  Jerusalem:  hnt  yi,'t  remained  one  day  of  sandy 
o]ien  and  tlu'  last  eneainjiment  of  our  I'ournev. 
When  we  etr.ers^ed  from  the  tent  in  res])onsi'  to  the 
uri^dnj,'  dra<;oman,  it  was  to  the  wet  shailows  of  dawn 
and  the  sullen  haste  of  l)reakini;  Ccmip — to  the  prom- 
ise of  hot  weather,  too,  I  ol)ser\-ed  :  no  cool  i^low  of 
mornin,ir,  rosily  expanding:,  I'ut  a  lomr  wound  of  crinv 
son  light  in  the  eastern  sky,  a])pcaring  feverirJi.  The 
world  beyond,  thou<j;ht  I,  was  already  a  blisteri!ii,^ 
place,  its  ways  listlessly  followed  in  the  l)eatin,>i 
\-ellow  li^ht.  an<'.  beyond — infinitely  far  bevond  the 
liorizon  of  this  \-acant  desert— the  sun  had  now  i^one 
down  upon  the  snow  of  our  own  land,  and  the  night 
air  was  there  left  still  and  frosty  and  blue. 

Mustafa,  the  entertaining  camel-driver,  who  of  our 
caravan  was  first  to  be  under  way  with  his  slow 
beasts,  was  waiting  to  gi\-e  the  khavi'aja  the  Siiluta- 
tions;  and  having  politely  performed  this  ceremony 

177 


i 


C,  ( )  I  \  (".    I )  ( )  W  X     I"  ROM    j  !■:  R  U  S  A  I,  !■  M 


with  liis  U'l'tti  rhattcrinij — the  wirnl  LKw  liiltnly 
chill  from  tlir  iHTlh  whili  ihc  carili  w.iUi.l  [^r  llir 
sun — ho  nvnl  his  ni>istlcss  way  iiUn  the  shaddwy 
west,  trailing:;  aftiT  his  string  of  rauals,  the  canu'l- 
boys  and  swaviii}^  lioasts  i^rown  _t,'ij^antii.-  in  ihi  >\<<\\ 
(lawn.  It  was  I'mad  ila\',  clurrful  wciithiT  ,mi|  a 
fresh  wiml,  uhcn  we  niouutcd  to  lollow;  and  those 
of  ns  who  W(  ic  aeeustotnrd  to  ride  toi,H'tlu'r  niowd 
off  at  a  fi>ot)iaif  into  ihi'  sand,  heartily  hn'akfasti'd 
and  eaj^cr  f'.r  the  road,  lra\inL:  AH  Mahtnoud  and 
his  inuK'ttcrs  t"  loai!   tlie  unwiUin.L;  beasts. 

We  had  11' it  ;^(inc  far,  howrvcr,  bcfcrc^  we  were 
iiitrrrui)ted  by  a  ir_\'  from  the  camp;  and  upon  this 
we  tnrned  shar])ly,  to  (Hscovcr  a  Bedouin  in  living; 
pursuit,  liis  \-oun,i;  son  fi '11' >win,Lj; — a  man  "f  iin- 
p'lX'erisheil  istatt',  it  seemed  fnun  hi^  i)atehes  and 
tattrrs,  when  hv  had  o\iTtaken  us. 

"This  pii"r  man,"  saiil  Aboosh,  presently,  "  would 
offiT  a  petitit  >n." 

'■  <  )f  wh.it  nature  "''"  I  askrib 

"  lie  has  bcrn  wronijed  1)V  liis  encnu","  the  dra^^o- 
nian  answcrc'l,  ".ind  seeks  redress." 

"What  ivdress  haw   I  to  t^ive?" 

"The  man  is  encouraged  by  the  i^'ossip  of  ilu;  e<iok"s 
tent;  it  has  eome  to  his  ears  that  six  days  past  you 
ilined  with  the  English  officers  at  E!  Arish,  and  lie 
has  grown  hopeful." 

The  wretclu'd  I\'']()uin,  somi'what  bewildered  by 
this  foreign  gabble,  still  regardcl  n.e  in  sanguine 
expectation.      I  iibser\ed   that  liis  lip  hung  loosely, 

I ,  S 


O  \    Till-     R  ( )  A  [)    TO    K  A  \  T  A  R  A 


th;it  his  iliscasi'(l  cyrs  \v:ivcr('il  ;  ami  I  (DiucUiMl  that 
iK'nt'uth  tlu'  lipiwii  ra^'s  ^t"  his  iil'lut  his  hcarl  IumI 
with  aittislitiiH'd  tiiiiiility. 

"Till  him,"  saiil   1,  "that  I  have-  iici  powiT." 

"It  is  usiKss,"  AiiiMish  answcri'il  ;  "having'  oli- 
S(T\-c(i  the  ICiiijlish  tlan  llsiriLj  ()\fr  ymir  tnit,  ihc 
mail  will  iKii  iK'lit'vt'  it." 

"Ti'll  him,  nrvcrthflcss.  that  I  have  uo  i)()W("r," 
1  rcpcatci],  ■lull  tiiat  I  will  listen  lo  Ills  stury  lor  the 
t'litrrtaiiimiiit    it   ma\    |)ni\iilf." 

AImjusIi  I'limplird   with  l.ail   L;racc. 

"1  am  a  tnlu'sm.m  "j'  thosr  hills  which  the  khr.- 
wajd  may  di'scry  in  tlu'  somh,"  tlu'  Bfilouin  rt-lati'il, 
"ami  I  have  travelled  tlusi'  m.my  d.i\-s  hitherward 
atdot,  iTiy  yi>iui.^  sun  acc'i>mpan\in,i,'  to  ease  tlu'  pansys 
of  luneliness.  I  am  in  lamenlalile  casr,  tniK',  liein^' 
a  friendless  man,  lionnd  now  In  lil  Arisli  tu  ulitain 
justice  (if  the  I'aij^'lish,  an  enem\-  ha\ini;  sunh-  wnMi,L;- 
ed  me.  We  nw  two  trilns  of  pastoral  Arabs,"  lie 
continued,  "dwellinij  side  liv  siiie,  pasturini;  <iur 
flocks  and  tillini^  the  soil,  and  have  continued  in  this 
proximity  in  ])eacx'  throu.^h  many  ^'encratioiis.  My 
little  field  lies  hetwecn  tile  cultivated  Ljround  of  m\- 
pi-ople  an-!  the  land  of  tlu-  nei;,;Iiliorin,L,f  tribe.  That 
great  fertile  field  which  adioins  is  ])ossessed  by  a 
covetous  man,  with  whom  I  misj;ht  derd  sulTiciently, 
supported  by  my  slu'ik,  were  he  not  the  nei)he\v 
of  the  sheik  of  his  ])eo])le.  Year  b\-  vear  this 
man  has  encroached  upon  my  land,  now  tilling,'  a 
foot,  now  claiming  to  ha\e  sown  where  I  cast  my 

»7y 


r,  O  I  \  r,    n  O  \V  X    P  R  0  M     I  i:  R  U  S  A  I.  E  M 


st'nl,  until  \\\cvv  IS  imtiiin;;  left  to  mc  but  an  uii- 
vifldiUK  strip  nl  stony  i,'rounil,  am'  I  am  liktly 
hi  starve  with  inv  son.  Tlu-  slicik  of  ni\  iMU-iny 
will  not  rctlrt'ss  nu'  lest  lu-  ntiVu'!  ilir  man,  whn  is  a 
tvlebratal  warrior  in  tmr  parls  an^l  has  a  ;.;rfit  ti>l- 
lowinp  of  (lisat'tVctfd  jx-rsons  ainoii},'  his  trilnsnun; 
and  niv  sheik  will  ^'ivr  mc  no  sviccur  lest  he  insolvc 
our  tribes  in  war,  whiih  have  not  \varre<l  for  these 
j:;cnerations.  Nevertheless,  the  land  is  mine,  and  my 
son's  after  me,  descendetl  Ut  nie  tlirouyh  tlie  line  of 
my  forefathers,  and  I  have  not  withdrawn  the  boun- 
daries from  the  urij^dnal  marks,  but  ha\-e  in  every  way 
comj^lieil  with  the  land  laws  of  iny  jnnplr.  I  am 
tlius  an  unfortunate  man,  tndy,  abandnnt-d  tiv  my 
people  as  a  saeritiee  to  the  .meient  peaee  ot  our 
trilies;  and  it  seems  that  my  son  will  haw  no  in- 
heritance after  me." 

"  It  is  an  unhapp\'  jiredieami'iit ,  trulv."  I  >  ib.vTved  ; 
"and  I  am  amazed  that  you  lia\r  not  rrsorted  to  a 
private  Settlement  of  this  ai'iair." 

"To  what  end?"  he  asked,  with  a  shrui,'. 

"To  the  end,"  1  answered,  "oi'  pivscrvin^'  this  in- 
heritance to  your  Son." 

"  I  mi^ht  accomplish  the  death  of  my  enemy  from 
ambush,  truly."  he  replietl;  "but  to  what  advantage 
this  blocxl-feud  ?  for  the  man  is  a  man  of  j^reat  family, 
and  my  son  would  presentlv  follow  mv  to  the  iira\'e. 
It  is  better  that  I  should  ask  the  English  at  El 
Arish  to  deal  justly  l)etween  us;  and  to  this  enii," 
he  added,   with   an  upward   glance  of  entreaty,  "  I 

1 80 


0\    T  ill;     |<  ()  A  I)    TO     K  A  X  FA  k  A 

crave    ihr    tH„,n     >A     \hc    k'hawaja's    distinguished 
fricn.lshii)." 

"  I  K'rieve."  said  I,  sadly,  "that  I  cannot  help  you." 

"  Will  th.'  khawaja  not  obtain  that  justice  for  mc?" 
tile  Bedouin  be^^ed. 

Aboosh  si.szhed.  I  fancicfl  that  the  simple  drapo- 
man  woald  have  mc  ititrurlo. 

"Give  tins  poor  man  hu-kshccsh  in  reward  Wn-  his 
story,"  said  I,  "and  trll  him  lliat  the  F.n-liNh  will 
deal  justl\ ." 

"lie  will  not  lulifve,"  Aboosh  replied,  "that  jus- 
tice is  V>  111'  had   without  inlluenee." 

"The  lessnn,  tlien,"  s.dd  1.  ndiii;;  uH",  "  will  1,^  u< 
his  a<hant.i>,a'." 

"Will  tlu-  kli.ih\ii.i  write  no  sin^di  word'"  the 
Bedouin  called,   in  entreaty. 

We  rode  in  a  direction  from  El  Arish,  to  whieh 
city  the  Bedouin  was  hound.  I  wondered  that  he 
followed   US. 


XXXIV 

TlIK    IIVH     TRdriil.HS 

FR(^M  l-:i  Ansli  wr  ha'l  i"V  U\c  days  ri'Mfii 
llinu^h  a  sa-,iil\-  ik'scrt,  si)arsrly  liushcd  ukh 
a  iiu'aii  ;^'rav  ij;n>\vtli.  lull  hvw,  iicarinj;  the  (.'anal, 
was  iii>  \i'.Lii.'latii)n  at  all — an  unlduchcd  waste  oi 
yclidw  saii.l,  clrifloi  in  threat  hills,  the  cd^cd  ridijc'S 
now  smoking  in  a  smart  brc'czt',  \allcys  and  brirl 
plains  st-t  ni  unchani^nii;  ri]>iiUs.  At  noon  it  was 
cruelly  hot  ridini;:  the  ImT/.r  had  fallen  away,  the 
desert  an-  palpitated  ui  '  t  'hr  snn.  the  yellow  world 
merued  its  outlines  and  was  ln'coine  ;i  j.dare  of  hot 
retleetion,  featureless  to  our  i)roli. stin;4  eyes. 

We  had  1)\-  this  tiiue  overtaken  Mustafa's  camels, 
which  we  ])assed,  and  were  ck>sely  trailed  by  AH 
Mahinoud  and  his  mules,  with  which  the  bi.i,'  master 
of  the  muleteers  had  followed  si)eedil\-.  accordin;,^ 
to  the  instruction  of  Al.oosh.  The  cautious  dra^jjo- 
man  had  said  that  thou;.,di  in  the  wide  desert  men  and 
mules  might  with  inviolable  safety  stray  at  will,  the 
approach  to  town  must  be  accomplished  in  company, 
lest  some  loss  or  worse  catastroi)he  befall  at  the  hands 
of  practised  robbers  who  mi'^ht  immediately  esca])e 
to  the  confvision  of  a  city. 

182 


lI.  > 


T  II  1:;     I'  I  V  i^    T  ROI  H  |,  L  S 

Till'  _\'iuii,uir  kli<ih\ii.i.  liDWiAcr,  wliu  had  loj^^cd 
thusc  (lays  on  .he  luck  of  an  army  canirl,  a  llulitl  of 
lu-auty,  was  not  ridinL;  in  our  eonij)any;  with  Taulik, 
the  (Iraj^onian's  jjcppcry  hrolhcr,  ami  C-orjioral  Ah, 
a  husinrss-hkr  SuuilanrM-  "{  the  L^arrison  at  h^l  Arisli, 
hv  was  far  in  tlu'  rear,  l^sl  to  \irw  iKhind  the  sand- 
liills  loftily  intcrvrnin,L,'.  I'l-oui  link'  Ui  liiiK'  Alioosh 
turned  in  his  stirrups  to  peer  into  liie  i,'lare  l)ehind; 
and  so  persistent  was  the  olTence  a.yainst  the  quietude 
ot  our  proi.'Tess  thai  I  (|UfStioned  his  anxi(,i\-  with 
much  rudeness:  upon  whieh  he  answered  iiiildl\  that 
if  Taufik  were  to  he  accounted  a  reckless  youth, 
Corporal  Ali  was  a  fool  to  indul<,'e  the  youn.yer  kiia- 
waja's  whim  to  h'li^^rer  on  the  road. 

"It  is  trur,"  I  tauntrd,  "nf  what  \'ou  accuse  vour- 
sclf;  \-<m  are  not  n\  the  lion  lu'art." 

He  lauijhed.  "  \'.  ai  are  a  ra'^'/al,  and  would  tease 
me!" 

"I  would  nut  discover  you,"  1  answered,  "in  this 
loiijish  SI 'hcituiK'." 

"It  is  my  way  thus  to  be  anxious,"  >aid  he,  turn- 


ing to  look  a^ain. 


For  a  time  we  rode  without  speakini: — the  voun^ 
draj^oman  wretclicdly  downcast,  it  seemed:  not  in- 
terested, now,  to  keep  his  spare  fiu;ure  in  *'-  saddle 
with  that  exquisite  erace  to   which  he  I,  nor 

to  poise  his  head  in  llu'  pnmd  fashion  he  cuitwatcd, 
nor  to  ulance  lioIi1]\-  roundaliout  upon  the  world,  nor 
to  pnsei-\T  the  saucy  an.i^le  of  liis  Kiustachc,  nor  in 


G  U  i  .\  G    L)  O  W  .\    J'  K  O  M    J  i:  k  U  S  A  1.  1-  .M 


f 


any  other  way  to  dis;  ay  those  xanilics  in  wliich  lie 
was  frank  to  find  deh.^ht. 

■'Here  is  .:  pdor  dragoman,"  1  jiresentiv  e(»ni- 
plained,  "Uuis  to  he  full  of  sighs  upon  a  journeyl" 

"1  think  of  my  hve  troubles,"  he  niilii,(l. 

"It  would  be  interesting,"  1  ol'Ser\ed,  "to  hear 
them  reeounteil." 

He  spurred  his  h(jrse  near  with  a  geiitk  littk-  laugh. 
"I'irst,"  said  he,  tlie  snnle  \-ielding  plaee  to  an  ex- 
Ijression  of  genuine  and  reviTent  eoncern,  "is  my 
religion:  1  am  no  Mohammedan,  to  be  content  with 
the  forms,  but  a  Christian,  who  must  live  bv  the 
spirit  ;  an.]  I  must  constantly  trou]>le  mvself  with  the 
cjuestion,  'Do  I  truly  live  in  the  fear  of  God?' 
Second,"  he  continued,  "is  my  llesh  and  blood:  that 
mother,  now  grown  ol  1  in  Jerusalem,  who  Hed  with 
me  over  the  desert  from  .Meso]X)tamia,  where  mv 
father  was  murdered:  those  sisters  and  their  live 
children  who  are  n(m-  dependent  u])onme;  that  Tau- 
hk.  my  brother,  going  to  America — of  all  these  I  must 
ask  myself,  'Do  I  serve  them  as  my  father  would?' 
Third,"  he  ]>roeeeded,  "is  my  ]iresent  dutv:  am  I 
faithfully  serving  those  who  employ  me?  do  they 
travel  in  the  comfort  and  safety  which  I  promised 
them  according  to  my  contract?  And  I  am  now 
troubled,"  he  added,  looking  'l)ehind,  "because  the 
younger  A7?,;;e,;/a  is  not  in  sight.  Fourth,"  he  re- 
sumed, after  a  moment,  "is  my  conduct:  1  must  not 
fail  to  trouble  myself  with  the  question,  "Am  I  kind 
to  tlie  unfortunate  ?'  for  when  I  was  a  boy,  travelling 

icS4 


THE    FIVE    TROUBLES 

the  roads  about  Jirusalcm  ti)  earn  Itrcad  for  my 
family,  I  did  not  ivcrivc  kindness,  and  1  ivmembcr 
thf  feelincj;.  Fifth,"  hv  concluded,  lookini,'  u])  from 
the  hot  road  with  a  sinilo,  "is  my  future,  I  am  a 
youn;^f  man,  but  one  with,  man\-  obH.i^Mtions,  aiiil  I 
jannot  help  troubling;  m_\-self  with  the  question, 
"What  is  to  become  of  me.''  A  youni,'  man  with 
ol)li>,(ations  ainnot  h-mcstly  take  nvw  respr)nsibilities; 
and,  though  I  liaxe  no  one  in  \-ie\v  ;■<  r>resenl.  I  can- 
not hel])  wondering—" 

An<l  the  excellent  yottng  fellow's  recital  ended  in 
a  burst  of  bashful  laughter. 


XXXV 


A    I'RINCi:    I\    Mi:SOI'()TA.\lIA 


WE  wort'  inU'iTupti'il,  imw,  liv  the  appearance  of 
a  band  cil  Bedouin  travellers,  streaming  un- 
expectedlv  over  a  near-by  rise.  They  came  swinging 
down  the  faintly  hoof-niarked  track  toward  the 
vallev  wherein  we  labored  (kc]i  in  tlu'  sand-dritt; 
and  I  obser\ed  that  those  mounted,  among  them  mde 
their  camels  without  weariness,  ami  that  those  atViot 
trod  jauntily,  all  of  them  advancing  with  much 
hilaritv,  of  calling  to  one  another  and  of  a  chant-like 
singing.  Thev  wouLl  hearten  lliemselves  for  the 
road  by  chanting  war-srmgs  (sa.id  Aboosh);  and  I 
recall  that  thi>  approach  in  this  manner — the  long 
stride,  the  xagonnis  carriage,  accompanied  by  the 
rlu'thmical  sound  of  voices — was  an  enlivening  spec- 
tacle. 

There  was  none  poor  among  them,  it  seemed  ;  they 
were  elail  in  fal  tries  of  price,  worn  with  an  air  in  keep- 
ing with  ])rMud  countenances,  and  the  trappings  of 
the  beasts  were  new  and  abuTidant :  here,  indeed, 
was  neither  rag  of  poverty,  the  unkempt  appearance 
of  poor  men,  nor  the  lowered  eyes  of  the  meek. 
They  ca.me  compactly  upon  us,  with  a  great  flashing 

rH6 


A    1'  R  I  X  (•  i:    I  X    M  E  S  O  I'  O  T  A  M  1  A 

(it  oyi'saml  L^riiiiiiiiL;,  Uinnviiig  Kirai  wi.nlh  in  ;iii\an(X': 
iwii  ulil  nu'ii,  I  ix'call,  .qjptanii;^  in  aulhonLv,  wiili  a 
do/Ail  slilf-iu'ckc'd  fallows  in  a  bi'anK.d  prime,  and 
SdHic  iniS(.'liir\iius-iniiulhfd   l".\s. 

It.  Was  a  nnis)-  passiu'^;  hiU  Ah'H.sh  ,ija\(  Uh'TII  no 
salulalion  in  Rlurn,  nor  cnurkduslv  x'iildrd  soith'- 
wlial  (.1  the  ro^id,  nnr  acknowicd-^ol  ihem  al  all,  Imt 
straightened  in  his  saddle,  riiling  now  al  the  head  of 
our  caravan  uiih  tlial  hirge  assnni])ti(in  n\  dignity 
he  could  eoinmand,  until  they  were  well  past  and 
the  answering  iiadinage  of  our  niukli^ers  had  ceased, 
whereupon  he  relaxed  into  hstlessncss,  and  the 
aniusenient   \^  as  <  >\er. 

"  A  saucy  crew' "  said   I. 

"Truly,"  he  answered:  "yet  it  is  wise  to  go  peace- 
ably in  a  strange  eountr\." 

Wearing  the  gra\-  hairs  of  cavJious  age,  I  did 
agree:  and  I  turned  then  to  look  oack,  hut  could 
catch  no  sign  of  the  younger  kliawajj  on  the  road. 


It  was  e\-er  hotter  riding:  we  went  hetween  two 
tlaniing  round  wastes — sun  owrhead  and  sand  under- 
foot :  tile  desert  had  absorbed  what  heat  it  could  con- 
tain, and  now  reflected  the  white  ra>-s  with  hanllv 
ilinu'nished  sewrity.  TIutc  was  no  heart  in  oin- 
company  for  tlie  accustonied  «li\ersions  of  the  road; 
Mustafa  had  no  tale  to  recite,  K' achid  no  kive-song 
of  his  composition  with  wliich  to  distract  us  from 
till-  weariiK-ss  of  this  riding.  I  observed  that 
"Wliishic,  a  mastcrlcss  dog  which  had  followed  our 

i87 


I ; 


GOING    DOWN    FROM    JERUSALEM 


\ 


camp  from  Jerusalem,  practised  a  cvinniii.u  tx))L(lu'iit, 
which,  In'ing  a  beast  of  "the  wall,"  she  IkhI  iviw  tirst 
discovered.  She  would  hasten  in  advance,  paw  a  hole 
in  a  sandv  slope,  and  snuj,;^le  in  this  small  shade  of 
her  creation  luitil  wc  were  well  beyond,  wlurcupnii 
she  would  conn-  runnini'  after  u--',  eiUicr  to  repeat  l!;e 
performance  or  trot,  tongue  hanging,  in  the  shadow 
of  my  horse,  which  was  directly  under  his  belly. 
There  was  no  niher  int'ident  to  enliven  ihe  way;  we 
were  indeed  most  unhappily  li' 't  and  restless  and 
bored — save  the  camels  (^f  Mustafa,  which  con- 
tinued the  slow,  invariable  pace,  indifferent. 

In  this  emergency  of  tedium  I  demanded.  n\  Aboosh 
the  story  of  the  murder  of  his  father  in  Mesopotamia. 

"  It  is  a  wild  tale,"  he  replied,. 

"So  much  the  better,"  said  I.  "The  Bedouins 
have  a  proverb:  A  good  story  is  the  half  of  a  day's 
journey." 

"  I  am  the  second  son,"  he  related,  as  I  may  para- 
phrase the  tale,  "of  the  M.iii  W'ilh  the  Cat.  My 
father  was  the  sheik  o|'  ihirteen  \i!lages  in  Meso])ota- 
mia,  with  power  to  le\-y  ta.\.. s  and  to  gathci-  them  by 
force,  and  was  in  consequence  a  rich  and  ])owertul 
man,  iKtted  by  his  enemies  and  well  ser\-ed  by  those 
Self-interested  friends  who  thrived  upon  his  In  ;aity. 
I  was  a  child  when  my  mother  lied  with  me  into  Pales- 
tine,  and  of  the  land  remember  only  a  swiftly  Ho  wing 
ri\er,  and  "i  our  state  recall  little  more  than  a  gray 
body-servant  and  a  white  horse:  but  my  mother  has 
told  me  many  stories  of  our  wealth — of  llocks  and 

iS8 


A    1'  R  1  XCE    I  \    M  i:S0  I' OTA  M  I  A 


horses,  of  stores  of  corn,  of  the  arired  srrwiiits  wiili 
whom   my   father  ro.lc,   of  jrucls  and   eariiets   in   a 
great  house,  of  coffers  in  the  eellar,  from  uhirh  :^oI,l 
and    silver    were    not    counted,    Lnt    wei^lird.      My 
lather   was   a    sa\a;j;i'   man,    alilr   to   defen<l    his   hie 
ngainst  attack  in  force,  which,  indeed,  he  must  often 
do,  l,iu  h\id  in  (hvad  of  poisoning.      I"or  this  reason 
he  would   tu'\er  venture  abroad   witliout  a  cat;  and 
into  strange  liouses,   whe.      he  must   eat,  lie   would 
carry  her  to  taste  the  food,        an  extraordinar\-  pre- 
ca-ution:  so  tluit  to  many  ix'oplr  in  Meso])otamia,  he 
was  known  (and  is  to  this  day  renK'ml>ered  i  as  the 
Man    With    the    Cat.      In    this    way    he    balked    his 
enemies,  until  a  cunning  i)lan  was  de\  ised  to  outwit 
him.      Iinited  to  feast  at  the  hoiise  of  a  friend,  he 
laid  olV  his  shoes  at  the  door,  as  the  custom  is,  an<l 
while  tlie  cntertainmL'nt  was  in  ])rogress  some  enemy 
poisoned  his  shoes  in  a  curious  manner:  this  l)eing 
with  fine  fragments  of  glass  upon  which  some  deadly 
fluid  had  hern  allowed  lo  dry.      When  m\-  lather  re- 
turned  t'rom   the  t\'ast,  his  feet   weri'  ser.atched   and 
swollen;    ;iiiil    he    was    ])resentl_\-   dead    of    tlu'    lock- 
jaw,   leaving   my   elder   brother,    the   father    of   this 
Tautik,  to  assume  his  station  and  the  wealth  of  his 
oflice." 

"Tlie  father  of  this  Taufik  who  rides  behind  with 
the  \ounger  khaicaja  and  Corporal  Ali'"  I  echoed. 

"Ves,"  Aboosh  answered;  "it  is  true  that  Taufik 
passes  as  my  brother,  and  was  nursed  at  mv  mother's 
breast,  his  mother  having  die<l:  but  iie  is  in  reality 

189 


'I 


C.  O  I  X  ('.    DO  W  X    1-  R  O  M     I  i:  R  U  S  A  1.  I-:  M 


ii!V  iifphrw,  the  Sdii  'if  my  cliUr  limtlu'i".  ulii  i  was 
slain  liy  my  father's  t-nL'iiiit's  liffon.'  ihc  youn;^'  man's 
■irth." 

"  This  Taulik,"  I  askt'd  "is  then  liy  ri;4ht  ihr  shrik 
(if  thirteen  \  illat;es  in  Mesoixitamia  ?'" 

■■  It  is  true,"  Alinosh  answered  ;  "Imt  wliat  matter' 
fur  Jerusali  ni,  to  whiih  ni\-  ni'ithcr  IUmI  with  us  after 
the  deatli  i<\  ni\-  falln  r  and  Imithrr,  is  a  It  m;^'  wa\' 
fnnn  ^k'S<)p(ltamia." 

"  I  have  a  vision  of  adventure  for  the  y  aing  man," 
said  I. 

.\l)oi  >sh  was  puzzled. 

"  I'roin  Ameriea  to  return  to  .Mesopotamia."  I 
eried,  eiuhusiastieallv.  "and  jiossess  iiimself  of  that 
wliieli  was  taken  from  his  latlier." 

"  Why  should   lie  do  this  thin.u'" 

"To  Ik-  the  sheik  of  thirteen  xdUa'^es." 

Ahoosh  hur^hed  lu-artily.  "  II  is  not  worth  while," 
said  lie,  "t<i  he  the  sheik  of  thirteen  \illai,fes  in  .\h'S- 
optUamia." 

"Not  worth  while  to  liw  thus  in  princely  state!" 
I  exclainu'ii,  aghast. 

"it   is  in  Meso])otamia,"  In-  retorted. 

\'e\erlhfles>.  thead\'ent  ujion  wliieh  this  youn^ 
and  stoMtdieartrd  Taufik  nn;,;ht  lionoraMy  embark 
seems  to  he  an  underlal.'inL,'  of  ])ro]ii  irlions  and  rare 
flavor.  The  distance  of  the  scene,  the  isolation  of 
the  strui;i^le,  the  spears  and  (h'nt docks,  are  a]i])eal- 
uv^  asiK'cts.  Mv  \iew,  howrvi'r,  ma\'  he  an  error  ot 
th.e   mmatitie   inia,i.^dnation ;   perh.ajis,   after   all,    it    is 

11)0 


A     I'  K  1  XC  !•:     I  X    M  ICsn  I>OT.\  M  I  A 

nd  an  interesting  thin^'  to  slicd  IiI.hkI  and  iluvU  in 
jcojianly. 


W'l'  rniniiK'd  a  ij;rcat  sand-hill,  pcakfi]  and  cliffod 
likr  a  wriiaMr  mountain,  and  roik'  ( mt  upini  a  j^lain, 
Kratrlully  hai'd  undrrlMMi.  The  linriznn  was  a  line 
I'f  iiahn-lroc's,  the  conlinnity  •>(  '^rvvu  hn  >krn  at 
iti1ir\als;  there  was  no  glimpse  of  water — no  indica- 
tion of  chan,;j:c-  in  thr  desert  we  tra\-elled.  Pri'sently, 
liowewT,  a,ii;ainst  the  liack<jround  of  sky  and  farther 
sand,  the  Miioke-stat'ks  of  a  steamship  a])peare(l, 
tra\ersin,L,'  the  liarn  n  in  a  way  to  amaze  the  Irawlkr 
troin  those  ninoU'  ]ilaees  ulience  were  we.  llerr, 
then,  Was  the  eanal.  it  seemed;  tlu'  paees  of  (,ur  un- 
trouhled  iourne>-  \\\i\'  nuinhered.  There  was  in- 
stantly the  riidin;,;,  iiidee(l  ;  ,i  glimpse  i  >\  snioki'-staeks, 
and  we  were  no  longer  nearin;^'  the  f.iniiliar  jjertvirha- 
tions,  but  had  returned  to  tht'in.  I  wondered  what 
tinn'  the  train  lift  Kantara  tor  Cairo;  and  was  tlu'ri' 
a  time^ahlr  ;•'  and  \\<.nld  tlui-e  he  a  dinin;^'-ear  i""  or 
must  the  e< "  ik  put  up  a  hite  to  cat ' 

We  mended  llir  pae<-;  the  eaniels  were  ur^i^ed  to  a 
lumhi'rini;  trot,  the  mules  hastened  under  the  hiNty 
eallint:;  of  Ali  Mahmoud,  the  doi,^  ran  harking,'  in  ad- 
vance, the  Worn  Rai'hid  l.roke  into  the  last  dosj;-trot 
of  his  loni,'  tra\(llin<.;.  A  rusty  tin  ean,  ohtrudint; 
from  a  little  drift  of  sand,  eonveyed  its  suL^eestion ; 
tlure  was  then  the  ra.u'  of  a  newsjxqxT — presently 
the  seattt'red  ri'fuse  of  a  town.  Mown  far  out  l)\-  the 
winds.      Low  houses  eine'rijed  in  shiftless  detail  from 

141 


c.n  1  \ c,    DO  \v  \ 


1<  ()  M 


i:  R  V  s.\  I.  i-:  .\i 


the  bank  ot  palms:  separating  imni  liicse  a  half- 
lM)ar(lo(l  structure  took  form,  and  I  distinguished  the 
sound  of  a  hammer.  Other  smoke-stacks  appeared; 
there  was  the  fussy  puflinc;  of  a  tug-hoat,  the  Mast  of 
a  steam  whistle.  'I'lii'  s-nni  was  unclean,  the  air 
polluted;  here  were  all  the  ajjjpra rations  come  again. 

We  skirted  the  out-liuildingsof  a  wretched  village 
— an  (nit-at-the-elhows  .settlement,  weak  in  the  knees, 
in<lolcnt,  sore-eyed,  and  unwashed  —and  threaded  a 
way  among  the  hills  of  accumulated  dredgings  from 
the  canal.  At  hist,  disheartened,  we  came  to  the 
hank  a  green,  swift-Howing  stream  (the  tide  then 
ehangmg),  hustling  with  the  traffic  of  the  world. 
Near  by  was  this  liitle  town;  I'ctween  was  a  hand- 
l^roiwlle  1  ferry,  conveying  camels  tow.Hil  Cairo; 
across  was  a  trim  railroad  station,  a  grass-plot,  a 
garden,  and  a  switch-engine.  The  passengers  of  a 
slow-passing  P.  and  O.  liner  came  to  the  rail  to  stare. 

We  dismounted  for  the  l;ist  tiine.  Riu'lu'd,  accord- 
ing to  the  custom  he  had  established,  took  the  liriiilr 
of  my  horse. 

"It  is  finished!"  said  I,  in  the  iM'douin  way. 

" Kluncaja,  truly,"  he  re])linl,  "it  is  a  melancholy 
thing  to  lea\'e  these  sands." 

Our  caravan  was  to  return  to  Jerusalem  bv  thr 
desert  route,  leaving  us  to  take  train  for  Cairo  in  tlu' 
m<  »rning. 


xxxvr 


A  nnnoriN'  i\  citstody 


I  WENT  to  an  eminence  of  ilrcdj^ings  to  search 
the  plain  for  the  younjjcr  klum'aja.  He  had  come 
into  view  at  last,  but  was  riding  alone,  and  that  in 
a  curious  fashion,  vaeillatinu:  between  haste  and 
leisuri'.  lie  wfuild  now  Uip  the  neck  of  his  camel 
until  ilir  l)r;isl  tmtt.d.  1  ail  bavins  achieved  this, 
wouiil  almost  instantly  persuade  it  back  to  aj^itated 
walk.  I  must  therefore  conclude  that  be  would  make 
haste  if  he  could,  but  was  una1>Ie  to  continue  with  the 
bnalh  Ih  aten  out  of  his  body  bv  tlu'  jolting  gait  of 
his  beast.  I*resentlv  I  o!Ker\ed  C'orporal  Ali  and 
Taufik  emerge  from  the  cover  of  a  s.md-hill;  thcv 
were  at  a  footpace,  with  a  gesticulating  Bedouin  walk- 
ing between  the  horses.  To  this  m\-stery  was  added 
the  appearance  of  a  second  I'«douin,  who  eanie 
running  beyond,  not  with  untouched  strength,  but 
falteringlv,  in  the  wav  of  a  man  who  had  run  far 
and  eagerly.  Ilaxing  owrtakeii  the  horsemeti,  the 
runner  to.  .k  the  place  of  the  first  Bedouin,  who  then 
trailetl  disconsolately  behind,  his  excitement  all  at 
once  departed;  and  in  this  manner  the  grou]; 
proached  over  the  plain. 

19.? 


.p- 


( ■  n  I  x  ( ;   I )  ( )  w  \    I  k  ( )  M    I  !•:  k  r  s  a  i,  i:  m 


"Thf  man  in  the  custody  of  Corporal  Ali,"  the 
younj^cr  klura'tijd  rxplainctl,  havinj^  arrivcil,  "is  our 
prisoner." 

"Anil  tile  oM  man  fuilowin},'?" 

"Ill'  was  stizL'd  to  insure  the  appearance  of  the 
other." 

"It  is  doubtless  an  iiilrrrNtiti},'  adviriltui'  to  have 
taken  a  prisoner,"  I  observed;  "but,  in  the  name 
of  Heaven!  what  are  we  to  do  with  a  captureil 
Bedouin  ?" 

"Why,"  cried  the  younj^er  k'luru\iiti — as  though 
the  thing  were  a  privile}.;e— "  we  shall  make  an  ex- 
ample of  him,  of  course!" 

It  seems  that  these  three  loiterers  of  our  eonijiany, 
riding  alone  in  the  desert  behind,  had  fallen  in  with 
the  sixteen  sauey  Ikvlouins  whom  we  had  earlier  en- 
countered. Taufik  was  neither  of  the  nature  nor 
that  iihU'iuh!  age  to  accept  an  insult  uitli  ii'>  more 
tlian  a  eonteinptuous  lift  of  the  head.  At  any  rate, 
small  blame  to  him;  these  jauntv  rascals  had  chal- 
lenged the  issue.  When  the  N'UiHiL^er  kluiu'djii  was 
cursetl  for  a  Christian  lout  (and  worse),  the  young 
dragoman  slijiped  from  his  Imrse  and  ft'llei'  the  nf- 
fender  of  his  master.  It  was  instantly  an  .ittray — 
and  of  the  liveliest  intention.  Tin-  Ivedouins  eried. 
"Kill  them!  Kill  them!"  and  fell  upon  the  unarmed 
Taufik  with  tlii^switt   jjurpose. 

Thev  meant— in  the  ])assiun  of  the  moment— to 
deliver  his  death;  here  was  no  mere  wayside  brawl, 
but  a  murderous  onslaught.     Staves  were  employed 

I'M 


A    15  i:  IJO  U  1  N     1  .\    C  U  S'l'O  I)  V 

ajjainst  liim;  tlie  lonj,',  curved  Aral)  knives  wore 
•  Irawn,  lnjl  iliiwri  with  poor  aim  in  the  CDiifusiun, 
S(»  that  iK^  mortal  Mow  was  dealt.  Corporal  Ali  was 
now  engajjed;  hut  tlir  unfortunate  younger  kiiawaja, 
perched  hiL;li  wn  tin  liump  of  his  frantic  camel,  was 
unalile  to  frirli  the  hi'ast  to  his  knees,  and  must  for 
the  moment  contain  his  lust  to  strike.  When  at 
last  he  abandon.,!  iIk-  saddle  at  a  great  leap,  the 
Bedouins  were  in  fliiiht,  l)ruise<l  l»y  the  fists  of  T.mlik 
and  Ali  into  a  revi\ini;  consciousness  of  Uu  ir  in- 
discretion. 

Taufik  was  a  tliin>,'  of  shreds  and  hruiscs,  beaten 
aliout  tlif  head,  .ind  Mccdin;,'  fmni  small  wounds  of 
knives;  but  G)rponi!  Ali  was  seathlcss,  breathing 
easily  and  not  uiuhily  disordered.  He  now  stood 
comjioscd,  with  his  lon.i,^  black  rm,i.;irs  closed  about 
the  beard  of  an  old  man,  who  pleaded  piteously  to 
be  released.  W'.ar  by  was  a  .ij;rave  patri.ireh,  of 
sheikly  authority  o\er  his  dt'p.irted  tribesmen,  to 
whom  Oiri)or:il  .\]i,  in  a  musical  address,  drawled 
llial  the  old  gentleman  whose  be.ird  he  retainer! 
Would  !ie  held  as  a  hostaije  for  the  ddiwry  of  that 
offender  whom  Taulik  had  first  accostoi. 

"  \'ow,"  the  younj^'er  kluiivcijo  concluded,  "by  i^ooil 
foilune  we  ha\e  the  man  to  d,   ,]  with." 

I   lameiUed   the  lalmrious  necessity. 

■'What!"  cried  the  \-oiniL:er  AV/aaw/'./,  "would  you 
have  this  fellow  ij;o  tree:-  Win  '  he  exclaimeil,  out- 
raged, adopting  the  Rn-li^,!!  altilude,  "he  attacked 
—usf 

'V5 


I , 


G  O  I  \  C,    D  0  W  \    FROM    J  E  R  f  S  A  L  E  M 

The  thing  must  be  done,  then,  for  tlie  unpanlon- 
ahle  olYcnee  of  lilting  a  hand  against  thr  Angki  Saxon, 
or  the  servant  of  tlie  Anglo-Saxon,  in  an  Eastern  'and 
(n,-eniMt,'i!  1)V  the  l-^n,.;hsli ;  there  was  no  exaddng  a  duty 
ol  Uiis  graw  jiubhe  nature,  k'St  the  journey  of  some 
otlui-  tra\-rlU'r  lie  more  seriously  interrupted,  they 
all  wisely  said. 


XXXVII 

nr)r,s  Oi-  Tnic  i-.xci.ish 

TIII^  triitR  were  now  niisnl,  the   riij^'s  sprcid,  the 
klia:.  iia's  easy  chair  srl  in  the  shade;    an<i  here 
on  the  hank  of  the  eoohllov,in-  eanal  the  khuhxija 
ele,iranily   restcl,   the  admired   of   ly-yptians,   his  at- 
tention oecu])ii'd    witdi  an  oeeasion.d   wb.itf  from  the 
eonk's  ]iols,   with  the  manifold  heauti-s  of  the  Hhie 
\<\ij.,   with  the  LTi-aee  of  the  pahn-lree  opposite,  and 
with  a  frai^Tant  eup  of  coffee    the  ])roduet  of  the  art 
of  Rachi.!.  formerly  em])!oved  liy  Davi.l's  Gate.     fJe 
reverted  i)rt'S.-nt!y  to  the  veritahk'  catastroi)he  (,f  tm- 
]jakitaMe  dnlv   confrontin.n;  him— justi-v   inxm   the 
head  of  tuat  errini;  Bedouin  — init  was  interrupted  by 
a  diflldent  ck'arinu  of  the  throat  in  liis  proxhnity. 
It  was  the  wron,<,"'d  Bedouin  of  Goo.^aa,  his  son  in  his 
shadow— not  the  eai>turc>d  offender,  out  that  rai:s,'L'd 
man  who  in  the  early  mornin,^^  had  sout^'ht  to  enlist 
the  klh!i.\ii,i's  sympathy,  hut  had  been  denied.      Ik' 
had  followed  all  these  sandv  miles  from  the  last  well 
to  renew  his  Petition  for  the  kluiu'dja's  influence  in 
llie   jiroeet'din^   he    was   about    to   take   aeainst    the 
enemy  who  had  encroached  uiion  his  land. 

"Come! "  thought  the  kliah  .,ja,   'this  ragged  fellow 

197 


i|' 


(iOl  .\(;    |)()\V.\     i'Ro.M     I  !■  R  U'SALLM 


is<i|  ,1  iiiiiiii  t(i(.  sini])lr  and  (iiiijil  tn  f,  mcciw- a  ])Inl, 
ail. I,  inorv'ivvv.  ha\  iii^,'  al  scunr  t..si  ])risrr\  cm]  an  ar- 
(|uainlancf  thnm.L^h  one  whole  day,  hr  is  hmmir  likv 
an  old  friend.  Why  shall  a  man  noi  introduce  one 
;j;enlleinan  to  another'  I  will  eurry  additional  favor 
wnh.  the  eaptain  at  El  Arish  by  i)resentin<<  him  with 
the  furred  dust-glasses  he  coveted.  Of  this  gift  tlic 
l>etilioning  Bedouin  shall  he  the  hearer;  and  if  it 
please  the  captain  to  listm  to  the  Bedouin's  com- 
plaint (I  will  write  1,  it  will  doubtless  please  the  Bed- 
"um,  to.,,  and  would  unquestionably  delight  the 
vanisb.ing  kluu,\n^i  t-ould  the  tale  of  this  indulgence 
but  onie  til  his  ears." 

The  Bedouin  was  politely  grateful,  assuming  n 
letter  favorable  t.i  his  suit;  and  the  sleepv  attention 
ot  the  /v//,Kea/</  was  ])i.'i-niilted  again  to  engage  with 
the  jiahns  and  green  water  an.i  Ihe  coffee  of  Rachid. 
I  do  n.  it  know  the  eii.l  of  the  sl.irv  ..f  the  poor  Bed- 
ouin who  was  saeriliceil  by  his  sheik  to  preserve 
the  tribe  in  its  aiiei.  nl  p.'ace.  It  was  an  incident  by 
ehance  (>\  the  caravan  rout(\  where  men  ])ass,  goin" 
east  a.nd  W(  st,  an.l  tiie  tales  they  live  issue  in  eon- 
elusions  beyond  the  ken  of  vanished  travellers. 


Tlu-rc  presently  arrivol  from  the  dust  and  odors 
.and  shiftless  litter  of  Kantara  an  animated  group. 
Here  was  the  admirable  Aboosh,  m  a  saucy  rage, 
l)rowheating  a  greasy,  jxip-evcd,  corpulent  Egyptian 
in  a  womanish  rerl  skirt,  who  radiated  the  pomjiosity 
of  a  nali\e  magistrate,  which,  indeed,  he  confessed 

198 


I'  V 


DOCS    (JF    THE    ENGLISH 

ti>  l)i,'in,i;;  and  here  was  the  IifscrchiiiL;  (ilTcniKr,  pat- 
UTI11.1;  ruiKMilaiKv  with  tlu'  fcrx'dr  and  rc'>,nilarily  <>(  a 
(iathiiL,'  i,nin.  his  aLjcd  lri!i(-'snian  in  mchmcholv  echo 
of  the  forlorn  assault  npon  our  s\-ni])athics. 

Xo  sooner  had  the  He<|ouin  eau.Ljht  si.^iit  of  the 
younger  hha-u\ija  tlian  he  dropi)ed  prostrate,  ;^ro\-elle(l 
close,  kissed  the  astounded  youn<^  man's  shoes, 
clambered  up  liis  le,L;<j;ini;s,  and  emliraced  his  knees; 
and  in  this  attitude  of  humiliation  he  continued  a 
not  unmusical  a_^ony  of  iileadiMi;  until  the  youn.u'er 
khaicaja  discnij;aL,'ed  himself  and  (led  l.lushin<^'  to  liis 
tent.  Thus  abandoned,  the  Bedouin  lell  at  the  feet 
even  of  tliis  Armenian  Taufik  (hut  with  a  wrv  faee^ 
who  dod<,vd  bi'hind  Rachid.  lea\in,u  the  elder  kha- 
waja  cxpose(l  to  the  culprit's  attentions. 

I  could  not  release  my  shoes,  thou^'h  what  with 
these  caresses  I  toi)]iled  perilouslv;  and  I  was  as 
loath  to  strike  as  cruelly  kick  out.  It  was  Cori^oral 
Ali  who  stieked  the  man  to  his  distance,  and  then 
kept  him  in  watchful  custody,  in  the  wav  of  a  ])olice- 
man  who  is  used  to  the  caleulatin.ij  repentance  of 
sinners.  In  the  mean  time  the  eni^'a.ycmc'nt  between 
Aboosli  and  tht'  cor])ulent  ma.uistrate  had  j^one  cres- 
cendo to  a  deafenin>,'  jiiti'h;  wh;ite\er  the  ar<,nunent, 
it  liad  elicited  a  noisy  eloquence,  in  the  exercise  of 
which  the  mai,nstrate  had  near  lost  his  breath  and 
the  draij;oman  had  alto,uetlier  lost  his  tem|xT. 

Twol)eni,a[nant  travellers.  ha\-in^  hitherto  wandered 
unmok'sted  and  unmolestin.i;l\-,  we  were  cau^tt  at  kist , 
it  seemed,  in  a  very  tempest  of  belli,iL,'erent  agitation. 

M  199 


l\ 


GOIXG    DOWN    FROM    JERUSALEM 

"Tliis  >:reasy  rascal  oi  a  magi'^trati,',"'  Aonosh  in- 
formal mc,  "will  <!')  nothing;  and  wc  ari'  therefore 
demeaned  by  him." 

"What!"  cried  I,  in  wrath. 

"They  are  all  Mohammedans  together,"  he  ex- 
plained. 

I  hail  before  been  of  the  heart  of  compassion;  but 
I  perceived,  now,  with  risin.i,'  indignation — such  is 
religious  jfartisanship— that  the  crime  of  this  bloinl- 
thirstv  and  villanous  Arab  was  of  a  nature  to  be 
severely  dealt  witli  under  the  law. 

"What  has  that  to  do  with  the  man's  guilt'"  I 
demanded. 

"The  Mohammedan  feast  is  near,  and  the  Bedouin 
is  in  haste  to  ctdebrate  it  with  his  tribe,"  Aboosh 
answered;  "the  magistrate  will  not  imprison  him  for 
as  much  as  three  days,  lest  he  be  detained  be\ond 
the  time." 

"I  will  speak  with  him,"'  said  I,  trueuk'ntly. 
It  chanced,  however,  that  I  had  no  nred  to  per- 
suade the  Egyptian;  the  persuasion  was  inadwrt- 
cntly  accotnplished  by  Ali  .Mahmoml,  tlie  big  mule- 
teer, and  that  iri  a  most  curious  and  informing  man- 
ner. Ali  Mahmoud,  having  now  arranged  the  cam]) 
to  his  satisfaction,  ran  up  the  British  tlag,  accfmling 
to  his  custom,  and  lumbered  off  to  sit  with  the  cook, 
an  eye  on  the  pot,  and  a  brexid  red  nose  expanded  to 
the  steam  of  the  cooking. 

The  effect  upon  the  magistrate  was  bewildering; 
in  a  Hash  he  had  transfi -nncd  himself. 

200 


DOGS    OF    THE    E  X  G  L  I  S  H 

"Wliat  has  come  over  tliis  fellow;""  I  asked  the 
dragonuin. 

'■  He  says,"  Ahoosh  interrupted,  with  a  triumphant 
little  lauj^'h,  "that  at  Kantara  they  are  the  dogs  of 
the  English.  'We  are  the  dogs  of  the  English,'  he 
says:  'what  shall  we  do  sufficiently  to  punish  the 
rascally  Bedouin  who  has  assaulted  your  excellency's 
servants  and  secretary?'  " 

"  Tell  him  that  he  must  himself  impose  the  punish- 
ment," I  re])lied;  "  luit  in  the  name  of  Heaven!  first 
explain  his  acquiescence." 

"Ali  jMahmoud  raised  the  uag." 

"  Did  the  man  not  know  that  we  were  British  sub- 
jects?    Surely  we  speak  the  language!" 

"It  is  true  that  you  speak  English,"  Aboosh  an- 
swered, significantly;  "but  you  go  clean-shaven,  Hke 
the  Americans." 

Forthwith  the  dogs  of  the  English  harried  the 
Bedouin  off  to  jail. 


'I  ( 

V 


XXXVIII 


iiHi.i)  rr 


T 


HERE  was  an  intiTvat  <if  repose;  and  while  we  sat 
at  ease  in  the  shade  nf  the  lvn\,  undistur'-ied  by 
the  curious  iif  Kantara,  who  were  k'.'jM  olT  l)y  a  patrol 
in  tlu'  ])ers()n  of  Kachid,  Aboosli  ^ravelv  n'!leeted, 
a])parently  occupied  with  a  jiroVilem  <if  no  small  im- 
])()rtanee.  It  seemed  hi'  eould  not  determine  whether 
t(i  bathe  and  arrav  himself  for  the  .^litterin.t,^  prome- 
nades of  Cairo  at  that  moment  or  await  another  time 
of  U'ismx';  but  ex'etituallv  eoni'ludiniLi  to  ha\e  the 
sok-mn  business  over  with,  he  departeil,  t^raw  as 
befitted  the  a])proaehin;4  eeremony.  I  heard  a  iL^reat 
s]ilashin;4,  calls  for  the  assistance'  of  Raehid.  admir- 
inij  exclamations,  an  altercation,  and  a  i^'cntle  del)ate; 
then  roundabout  passed  Elias,  the  cook's  boy,  cry- 
ins.',  "  Kha'd'dia  Aboosh!  KliLrudja  Aboosh!"  And 
the  admirable  dra,!L,'oma.n  responded,  clad  res])len- 
dentlv  below  a  suspicious  slender  waist,  but  not 
readv  for  insjiection  al)ove,  one  strand  of  his  mus- 
tache in  a  curl-paper  ami  the  other  hanginsj;  dam]) 
and   lim|). 

There  was  a  i/lint  of  onicial  braid  about  the  xdsitor 


202 


whom  he  received;  and  I  observed  that  Elias  S(t 
stools  and  a  table  near  by,  and  fetehed  coffee,  and 
that  Aboosh  and  the  stranjrcT  ,^ot  their  heads  lo- 
i;ether  and  laui,'hed  a  j^qvat  deal,  and  in  all  seemed 
to  have  an  excellent  time.  But  I  was  })rcsently 
enlightened.  Aboosh  came  to  me  wocbevonc,  his 
brows  drawn  with  trouble,  his  hand  pullini^  in  an 
agitated  way  at  the  unoccu])ied  strand  of  his  mus- 
tache. "  You  know,"  said  he,  "  that  one  of  our  horses 
is  worn  and  has  for  thrive  da\s  carried  no  bunlen' 
Well,"  he  continued,  "this  man  is  a  (juarantine 
officer,  and  the  thini;  has  been  reported  to  hiin.  The 
horse  is  in  p;ood  health,  ;:s  I  know,  having;  observi'd 
him  carefully;  but  this  man  says  that  he  has  a  run- 
nins^  at  the  nose  and  will  conmiunicate  a  pla.i^ue  to  all 
the  horses  and  camels  of  E.ijypt  if  he  is  permitted  to 
return  over  the  desert  to  Jerusalem  to-morrow,  as  I 
had  planned !" 

"His  L^reed  is  the  doctor,"  said  T. 

"Truly,"  cried  Ab(K)sh,  distressed  to  the  point  of 
tears;  "but  he  has  me  at  his  mercy.  I  must  either 
waste  the  jirofits  of  this  ]on_^  journey  in  maiTitainin^L; 
my  animals  and  men  in  a  ([uarantine  of  three  wet'ks 
at  Kantara  or  hand  the  last  piastre  of  them  to  this 
,ureedy  ofiicial." 

"I  would  not  pay  one  penny!"  said  I. 

"That  is  not  the  way,"  he  replied;  "the  man  is 
entitled  to  some  small  bribe  from  every  traveller 
who  can  ,  'Tonl  to  pay.  I  do  not  wish  to  be  ungener- 
ous; but  he  seems  like  a  hard  man,  and  1  think  he 


M 


G  O  I  X  G    DOWN    FROM    J  E  R  U  S  A  L  E  M 

will  ilrm.'ii^.il  more  than  his  rij2;ht  when  he  comes  again, 
even  every  piastre  of  my  profits. " 

"Has  he  named  no  sum?"  I  asked. 

"  No,"  the  drai,'oman  sii^'hed ;  "  he  has  not  yet  form- 
ed an  estimate  of  the  amount  of  my  ]">rofits." 

"What  shall  you  do  to  protect  your  pocket'" 
said  I. 

"  I  will  be  clever  in  con\iTsation/'  was  the  answer. 

Here,  indeed,  was  a  pitv.  Al)00sh  had  labored 
dili;;j;enlly  in  our  ser\'iee,  and  was  a  man  of  manv 
ol;)li;^'ations,  L^enerously  as.sumed. 

It  occurre(l  to  me  late  in  the  afternoon  that  the 
captured  Brdouin  init:;ht  even  thru  be  on  trial;  and 
I  dispatched  Aboosh  in  haste  to  the  villa;Te  (two  eurl- 
]iapers  now  cngai^inc^  his  mustache)  to  make  sure 
that  he  was  not  punisht'd  with  undue  severity  by 
these  solicitous  tlogs  of  the  English.  The  obse- 
([uious  magistrate  had  relieved  me  of  attendance, 
and  my  servants;  nor,  said  he,  would  he  put  me  to 
the  fatigue  and  disturbance  of  providing  witnesses, 
but  would  himself  close  the  incident  with  neatness 
and  dispatch.  It  was  a  happy  thing,  therefore,  that 
Aboosh  was  present  with  a  gift  of  mercy;  for  when 
the  dragoman  arrived  the  zealous  judge  was  on 
the  \-ery  point  of  condemning  the  forsaken  unfort- 
unate to  a  year's  servitude  in  the  prison  at  Port 
Said. 

"  You  remember  Mirza,  the  sheik  of  the  Tribe  of 
Them  That  Had  Heard?"  the  dragoman  asked  me, 

204 


H  ELD    UP 

having  returner!  to  the  lengthened  shadow  of  my 
tent.  "  You  rememl)er  that  witli  the  elders  of  his 
tr:l)e  he  drank  ei)fTee  with  you  in  your  encampment  at 
tile  Weil  of  Ma/.aar.  \'ou  renieml)cr  that  you  rode 
th-ougli  the  salt-swamp  and  ate  dates  and  drank 
coffee  with  him  and  his  elders  in  his  tent?  You  re- 
mtmher  that  you  were  ser\-ed  wilh  one  cup — with 
two  cups — with  the  third  eup?  You  have  not  for- 
}.,'OLten  the  meaning  of  the  third  cup — that  it  signifies 
nut  only  the  friendship  of  the  sheik,  for  mutual  de- 
fence and  offence,  hut  the  loyal  devotion  of  his  tribe  ? 
You  rememl)er  that,  departing,  you  indulged  Sheik 
Mirza  with  a  gift,  and  that  he  reeeiwd  it,  vowing  his 
devotion  and  the  loyalty  of  his  tribesmen  to  endure 
forexer'  Well,"  the  dragoman  concluded,  with  a 
knowing  little  wink  and  grin,  "these  offending  Bed- 
ouins, of  whom  this  man  was  the  chief,  are  of  the 
Tribe  of  Them  Tliat  Had  Heard,  returning  from 
Cairo." 

"What  punishment  was  inflicted?"  I  asked. 

"When  I  informed  the  man  of  these  e^•changes  of 
Iiospitality,"  Aboosh  replied,  "he  hung  his  head  and 
uept,  crying  out  that  he  had  shamed  his  tribe;  and 
in  pity  I  persuaded  the  magistrate  to  reduce  the 
sentence  to  one  week  in  the  jail  at  Kantara." 

The  poor  Bedouin  had  engaged  my  sympathies. 

Night  came,  after  a  flaring  sunset — of  those  great 
cli.nids,  flung  mightily  forth  and  wide-lying  in  the 
west,  terrible  with  heaviness  and  silence  and  lurid 

20; 


f,^ 


C.  ()  I  .\  '  •.    DO  \V  \    I'  1<  ()  M    j  i;  K  U  S  A  I,  i:  M 

colors.  It  was  pnsiiitly  'lark;  and  luiv,  aj,'ain,  ;il] 
roiinrlalH'Ul,  was  tli''  sa!i;r  Wear  invslny  of  stars, 
kai'hi,!  (.illrd  us  to  ihr  firi'.  whiah  crackled  its  ovn 
iiu'ilatiiiii  [i>  tlu'  warmth  .mil  shitting  red  li.uht  ii  a 
\nic'r  nt  pt  rsnasi\''-  clui  rfulnrss;  and  \\c  sat  dour  in 
till'  sand,  as  wa  Iiad  tliisc  many  ni;4hts,  in  thr  c<'in- 
])any  <  if  all  those  who  trawllad  with  ns  and  ol'  what- 
soever wanderers  would  he  entertaitieil  ;it  our  tal)l(  . 
Raehii]  (.rooiKi]  a  lii\r-S(ini;,  U>  whii.h  wa  listt.'i":e(], 
stirred  but  uneonijinhendiiiL:,  and  thirt'after  ri'eited 
witli  relish  a  eumiMisitiMn  whieh  set  lorth  the  heroism 
<>{  the  yiiuni,'er  kluiwiii!  in  the  Mfiody  i'n;.,'ai;enient  of 
that  day  (who  liad  liren  no  hiTo  at  all) ;  and  .Mustafa, 
that  entLTtainin,^  eanit  l-dri\ir,  related  his  last  in- 
forminL:  story;  and  Corjioral  Ali,  the  Soudanesi',  now 
first  disclosed  liis  ]irineily  deseent,  as  to  a  eirele  of 
eternal  friends,  adriini;  a  diwrtini;  ex]>lanation  of  his 
situation  of  ser\itude  with  tlie  Eni;lish;  and  the 
\duns4er  klhiwaiii  induli^ently  pert'ormed  tricks  of 
mai^MC,  to  the  delii^ht  of  little  Ahmed,  the  camel-l»oy; 
and  liii^  Ali  Mahmoud  toM  laui^'hable  tales  which 
Alioosh  would  not  rejU'at,  thouL;h  they  con\ulsed  the 
whole  com])any.  Thesi'  delimits  of  e\enini,f  recurred 
as  when  we  travelled  the  remoter  sands  and  there 
was  no  lappinsj;  water,  no  red  and  i,Teen  li!j[hts  drift- 
ini;  by,  no  inornint;  jirospect  of  farewell  and  haste  and 
noise,  no  neiL;hl)orhood  of  dwellini^s,  Imt  only  the 
vacant  desert,  lyin;^  infinitely  roimdabout  utider  the 
stars. 

Aboosh  was  withdrawn  from  our  coinpanv  1)>-  the 

206 


\. 


WE      SAT       D  T V\  • . 


II  !•: !.  \)    U  P 


aihx'ut  of  llir  (|u,iiMiUiiU'  DllictT,  pn'StiitK-  lie  rc- 
ji  lined  us  uiiinow'd. 

"Well?"   I  iiKiuirc'ij. 

"I  li,i\r  maiK'  a  iiiistakt',"  he  \vliis|H'ri''l,  t-i'mljiy. 
■'The  man  is  a  i_;rnllriiMn  -tw..  iiap(;k;ons  wcru  suf- 
ficient U)  appease  liini." 


( i 


I' 


1! 

'I 


XXXIX 


UAL'IUU    GOES    HOME 


It 


W\l  wore  (.Tirly  ;isfir  in  tlir  ni(>rnin<,'— abroad  in 
tlir  c'll,]  ;iir  loivj,  lie'lmv  dawn- to  ohlij^o  the 
t;rntkiiianly  (|\!aranliii(_'  (il'lkvr,  whi  i  had  provided, 
whrn  Uk' (Irani  inian's -old  touched  liis  palm,  that  the 
Inasls  whirh  he  liad  iiiistakeuK-  suspected  of  afflic- 
tion  nmsl  newrtheless  he  outward  Ixiund  toward  the 
eastern  desert  before  th  break  of  dav.  Wlien  the 
earawan  was  ready  to  (k_  al  <  ni  the  return  journey 
to  Jerusalem,  Aboosli  took  Ali  Mah-noud  aside,  to 
case  iiis  own  heart  of  an  oppression  whieli  had  lont; 
troulded  liini:  it  beinj^  a  perilous  thinir.  said  he,  for 
Christians  to  be  outnumbered  liv  Mohammedans  on 
the  (U'Sert  n  lad,  or  Moliamniedans  to  be  outnumbered 
by  Christians. 

'■  Vou  are  all  Mohammedans  but  the  cook  and 
i->lias,"  he  entreated  the  h'v^  muleteer,  "and  I  charge 
yi  111  ti  >  see  that  U'  >  harm  bt'falls  them— neither  hunger 
nor  thirst  nor  ill  treatment,"  and  Mi  Mahmoud  made 
the  threefold  Mohammedan  oath  to  protect  the  shiv- 
ering Christians  in  the  ewnt  of  eatastrt)phe. 

They  went  one  by  one — a  glciomy,  staggering  cara- 

208 


R  A  C  HI  D    GOES    H  O  M  !• 

van— over  tlie  hills  to  the  shac'  vs  of  the  plain,  and 
were  there  enfolded  from  otii  Mew;  but  Elias,  the 
cook's  boy,  lin-zered  to  strap  the  third  saddle-bag 
upon  the  ^rax"  stallion  I  had  ri<Klen,  though  I  had 
warned  him  that  the  beast  wfmld  carry  no  burden 
save  his  rider.  He  was  a  youth  over-eontident,  and 
presently  in  hard  case,  for  he  was  instantly  thrown; 
but  he  mounted  again,  with  a  laugh,  and  was  once 
more  toppled  (U'er  the  horse's  head.  Aboosh  called 
to  Aii  .Mahmoud,  who  came  back  in  a  rage  with  the 
folly  of  Elias;  and  the  two  went  away  together,  in 
melancholy  fashion.  Tlie  last  glimpse  we  had  of  our 
engaging  followers  revealed  a  boy  from  Jerusalem 
afoot  and  crx'ing  heart  il\-. 

We  said  good-bye  to  Coqioral  Ali  last  of  all— this 
when  the  sun  was  high,  the'  village  Hie  astir. 

"0.)rporal  Ali,"  I  said,  imj^ressively,  "I  have  a 
grave  commission,  which  you  will  perform  upon  our 
departure." 

The  Soudanese  came  to  rii;id  attenti'm. 

"Do  you,  then,"  I  enjoined,  "go  instantly  to  the 
ma";istrate  and  commantl  the  release  of  that  Bed- 
ouin." 

"The  khawaja,''  he  replieil,  smiling,  "has  learned 
mercy." 

It  is  a  lesson  not  difficult  to  learn. 


Rachid  went  with  us.  To  him,  on  the  night  before, 
had  come  two  gold  pieces,  with  which  he  must  found 
the  fortune  he  woukl  raise  in  C;iiro:  and  he  was  trulv 

209 


(1  ()  I  X  (;     DOW  \    F  K  ()  .M    J  i:  K  L-  S  A  L  li  M 

<)\(TJi)yt'il,  !>ul  sail],  with  many  ahjccl  linws,  Ihal, 
havin.L;  for  tlircr  ni^lits  ilreanunl  of  liis  tiKilliLT,  he 
iinisL  fnR'L;M  the  <lch'i;hts  of  tlu-  ciU-  and  return  to 
Jt.Tusak'm  witli  the  niuk'terrs.  I  was  not  surprised, 
lio\ve\er,  to  iinil  h.im  new-mindcil  in  thie  niorr.iiig. 
I'niler  the  whv^  <if  a  Soudanese  who  ha(l  for  three 
(hiys  followed  our  eain]),  he  jiroeeeded  witli  us,  now 
elated,  now  ".tterly  east  down  and  wee]")in,L,'.  That 
(-wnin;,',  in  Cairo,  he  appeareil  at  the  hoti'l  door — 
with  fresh-sha\en  head  and  \-oun,ij;  beanl,  ])ut  other- 
wise deplorably  raj^'j^'ed — to  give  us  a  frieridly  greet- 
in;_;;  he  would  never  again  sec  Jerusalem,  said  he, 
sinee  the  delights  of  Egypt  wire  so  manv  and  so 
d.t'lieious.  From  time  to  time  in  the  davs  that  fol- 
lowed he  accosted  us  on  tlie  street,  or  waited  patient- 
ly for  our  coming;  and  we  olist'r\-ed  that  ui)on  each 
occasion  he  was  less  agreeable  to  the  eve.  Event- 
ually (as  we  leanu'di,  ha\'ing  parted  with  his  gold 
pii'ces  in  the  ]~)ursuit  of  lia])])iness,  he  bethought  him- 
self, on  tlie  <.  .  of  the  Feast  of  Ramadan,  of  an  cx- 
])edient,  and  with  his  last  f]\e  ])iastres  procured  a 
scribe  to  fashion  messagi's  to  us,  interjjrel  ing  Rachid's 
own  words.  Thesi'  in  hand,  he  presented  liiinself, 
smiling  ingratiatingly,  and  in  much  embarrassment 
awaited  the  response.  I  read  :  "  I  am  Rachid,  your 
poor  servant,  come  with  you  from  Jerusalem.  I  beg 
the  graces  from  you  for  to  buy  new  clothes  for  the 
feast.     Good  feast!" 

I  hesitated. 

"Tell  the  hhaivaja,"  Rachid  whispered  to  Aboosh, 

2IO 


l.Va 


RACH  ID    GOES    HOME 

with  tears,  "that  I  have  no  need  of  fiiKTy,  but  wish 
only  to  ^o  home  to  my  city." 

It  blew  high  next  nit^^hl :  I  piticl  Rachid,  bound 
across  the  sea  from  Port  Said  to  Jaffa,  but  I  was  ylad 
that  he  had  gone  home. 


TH1-;    KXD. 


r 


3    SOTS    QOQ 


mSM    0 


